Sufi lovers, Safavid silks and early modern identity /:
This text examines a group of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century figural silks depicting legendary lovers from the Khamsa (Quintet) of epic Persian poetry. Codified by Nizami Ganjavi in the twelfth century, the Khamsa gained popularity in the Persian-speaking realm through illustrated manuscripts pr...
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1. Verfasser: | |
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Format: | Elektronisch E-Book |
Sprache: | English |
Veröffentlicht: |
Amsterdam :
Amsterdam University Press,
[2023]
|
Schriftenreihe: | Visual and material culture, 1300-1700 ;
41. |
Schlagworte: | |
Online-Zugang: | Volltext |
Zusammenfassung: | This text examines a group of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century figural silks depicting legendary lovers from the Khamsa (Quintet) of epic Persian poetry. Codified by Nizami Ganjavi in the twelfth century, the Khamsa gained popularity in the Persian-speaking realm through illustrated manuscripts produced for the elite, creating a template for illustrating climactic scenes in the love stories of 'Layla and Majnun' and 'Khusrau and Shirin' that appear on early modern silks. |
Beschreibung: | Figure 1.3: Textile fragment depicting Layla and Majnun, with the signature 'Work of Ghiyath' (detail), mirrored to show proper direction of the script. Attributed to sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk, with gilded parchment wrapped around silk core |
Beschreibung: | 1 online resource (248 pages) : illustrations (chiefly color), portraits ; |
Bibliographie: | Includes bibliographical references and index. |
ISBN: | 9789048551149 9048551145 |
Internformat
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245 | 1 | 0 | |a Sufi lovers, Safavid silks and early modern identity / |c Nazanin Hedayat Munroe. |
264 | 1 | |a Amsterdam : |b Amsterdam University Press, |c [2023] | |
264 | 4 | |c ©2023 | |
300 | |a 1 online resource (248 pages) : |b illustrations (chiefly color), portraits ; | ||
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490 | 1 | |a Visual and Material Culture, 1300-1700 ; |v v.41 | |
505 | 0 | |a Cover -- Table of Contents -- Acknowledgments -- Note on Transliteration -- Introduction: Material Culture and Mysticism in the Persianate World -- Material Culture and Mysticism -- The Persianate World -- Part I -- 1. Silks, Signatures and Self-fashioning -- Khamsa Narrative Silks in Scholarship -- The Famous Naqshband: Unrivalled in the Art of Textile Design -- Craftsmen and Consumers -- Self-Fashioning in the Early Modern Persianate World -- 2. Dressed as King, Lover and Beloved: Khusrau and Shirin -- Lovers from Nizami's Khamsa -- The Romantic Tragedy of Nizami's 'Khusrau and Shirin' | |
505 | 8 | |a Khusrau and Shirin in Paintings and Safavid Silks -- The Gaze and the Body: States of Dress and Undress -- 3. Weaving Stories, Weaving Self: Layla and Majnun as Sufi Icons -- The Mystical Love Story of Nizami's 'Layla and Majnun' -- Layla and Majnun in Poetry, Paintings and Silk Designs -- The Khamsa of Amir Khusrau -- Text and Textile in Sufi Poetry -- Part II -- 4. The Divine Cloak of Majesty: Material Culture in Sufi Practice -- Garments as Gifts of Blessing, Piety and Power -- Chivalry, Spirituality and Materiality in Sufism -- Khirqa: The Cloak of Spiritual Poverty | |
505 | 8 | |a Khamsa Silk as Khirqa? Figural Silks in Islamic Literary Sources -- Enrobed: Khil'at in the Early Modern Age -- 5. Mughal Dress and Spirituality: The Age of Sufi Kings -- Silk, Sufism and Self-Image at the Mughal Court -- Figural Silks from Mughal Manufactories -- Jahangir as King and Lover -- Ghiyath's Legacy at the Mughal Court -- 6. Safavid Figural Silks in Diplomacy: Rare Textiles of Novel Design -- Silk as Commodity in Safavid Iran -- Figural Silk as Safavid Identity: Sherley and His Rivals -- Figural Silk as Diplomatic Gifts -- Safavid and Mughal Gift Giving in Historical Accounts | |
505 | 8 | |a Figural Silks at the Mughal Court -- Conclusion -- Reattribution of the Khamsa Silks Based on Paintings and Poetry -- Textile Designs and Designers -- Sufi Kings in Mughal India and Safavid Iran -- Khusrau and Shirin: Love and Kingship -- Layla and Majnun: Separation and Union -- Deviations from the Khamsa Characters -- Concluding Thoughts -- Appendix A: List of Khamsa Silks -- Appendix B: Summary of 'Shirin and Khusrau' by Amir Khusrau Dihlavi -- Appendix C: Summary of 'Majnun and Layla' by Amir Khusrau Dihlavi -- Glossary of Textile Terms -- Glossary of Persian and Arabic Terms | |
505 | 8 | |a List of Historic Figures -- Index -- List of Illustrations -- Figure 1.1: Textile fragment depicting Layla and Majnun. Attributed to sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk with metal foil -- double cloth. L: 7 7/8 in. (20 cm), W: 5 3/8 in. (13.65 cm). The Textile Museum (1969.36.1). Acquired from the Cooper Hewitt Muse -- Figure 1.2: Textile fragment depicting Khusrau seeing Shirin bathing. Attributed to mid-sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk -- cut velvet. L: 7 1/2 in. (19.1 cm), W: 5 7/8 in. (14.9 cm). Cleveland Museum of Art (1944.499.b). Purchase from the J.H. Wade Fu | |
500 | |a Figure 1.3: Textile fragment depicting Layla and Majnun, with the signature 'Work of Ghiyath' (detail), mirrored to show proper direction of the script. Attributed to sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk, with gilded parchment wrapped around silk core | ||
504 | |a Includes bibliographical references and index. | ||
588 | |a Description based on online resource; title from digital title page (viewed on December 22, 2022). | ||
520 | 8 | |a This text examines a group of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century figural silks depicting legendary lovers from the Khamsa (Quintet) of epic Persian poetry. Codified by Nizami Ganjavi in the twelfth century, the Khamsa gained popularity in the Persian-speaking realm through illustrated manuscripts produced for the elite, creating a template for illustrating climactic scenes in the love stories of 'Layla and Majnun' and 'Khusrau and Shirin' that appear on early modern silks. | |
600 | 0 | 0 | |a Niẓāmī Ganjavī, |d 1140 or 1141-1202 or 1203. |t Khamsah. |0 http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/n85284702 |
630 | 0 | 7 | |a Khamsah (Niẓāmī Ganjavī) |2 fast |
650 | 0 | |a Textile crafts |z Iran |x History |y 16th century. | |
650 | 0 | |a Textile crafts |z Iran |x History |y 17th century. | |
650 | 0 | |a Silk pictures |z Iran |x History. | |
650 | 0 | |a Women sufis |x Clothing. | |
650 | 0 | |a Clothing and dress |x Religious aspects |x Islam. |0 http://id.loc.gov/authorities/subjects/sh2003011747 | |
650 | 0 | |a Clothing and dress |z Iran |x History. | |
650 | 6 | |a Illustrations sur soie |z Iran |x Histoire. | |
650 | 6 | |a Vêtements |x Aspect religieux |x Islam. | |
650 | 7 | |a Clothing and dress |2 fast | |
650 | 7 | |a Clothing and dress |x Religious aspects |x Islam |2 fast | |
650 | 7 | |a Silk pictures |2 fast | |
650 | 7 | |a Textile crafts |2 fast | |
651 | 7 | |a Iran |2 fast |1 https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJtrYvcVTwChrDqytBvJXd | |
648 | 7 | |a 1500-1699 |2 fast | |
655 | 7 | |a History |2 fast | |
776 | 0 | 8 | |i Print version: |a Hedayat Munroe, Nazanin |t Sufi Lovers, Safavid Silks and Early Modern Identity |d Edinburgh : Amsterdam University Press,c2022 |
830 | 0 | |a Visual and material culture, 1300-1700 ; |v 41. |0 http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/no2017099120 | |
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938 | |a ProQuest Ebook Central |b EBLB |n EBL30256435 | ||
938 | |a EBSCOhost |b EBSC |n 3464496 | ||
994 | |a 92 |b GEBAY | ||
912 | |a ZDB-4-EBA | ||
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Datensatz im Suchindex
DE-BY-FWS_katkey | ZDB-4-EBA-on1351746725 |
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adam_text | |
any_adam_object | |
author | Munroe, Nazanin Hedayat |
author_GND | http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/no2020063310 |
author_facet | Munroe, Nazanin Hedayat |
author_role | aut |
author_sort | Munroe, Nazanin Hedayat |
author_variant | n h m nh nhm |
building | Verbundindex |
bvnumber | localFWS |
callnumber-first | T - Technology |
callnumber-label | TT715 |
callnumber-raw | TT715 .H44 2023 |
callnumber-search | TT715 .H44 2023 |
callnumber-sort | TT 3715 H44 42023 |
callnumber-subject | TT - Arts and Crafts |
collection | ZDB-4-EBA |
contents | Cover -- Table of Contents -- Acknowledgments -- Note on Transliteration -- Introduction: Material Culture and Mysticism in the Persianate World -- Material Culture and Mysticism -- The Persianate World -- Part I -- 1. Silks, Signatures and Self-fashioning -- Khamsa Narrative Silks in Scholarship -- The Famous Naqshband: Unrivalled in the Art of Textile Design -- Craftsmen and Consumers -- Self-Fashioning in the Early Modern Persianate World -- 2. Dressed as King, Lover and Beloved: Khusrau and Shirin -- Lovers from Nizami's Khamsa -- The Romantic Tragedy of Nizami's 'Khusrau and Shirin' Khusrau and Shirin in Paintings and Safavid Silks -- The Gaze and the Body: States of Dress and Undress -- 3. Weaving Stories, Weaving Self: Layla and Majnun as Sufi Icons -- The Mystical Love Story of Nizami's 'Layla and Majnun' -- Layla and Majnun in Poetry, Paintings and Silk Designs -- The Khamsa of Amir Khusrau -- Text and Textile in Sufi Poetry -- Part II -- 4. The Divine Cloak of Majesty: Material Culture in Sufi Practice -- Garments as Gifts of Blessing, Piety and Power -- Chivalry, Spirituality and Materiality in Sufism -- Khirqa: The Cloak of Spiritual Poverty Khamsa Silk as Khirqa? Figural Silks in Islamic Literary Sources -- Enrobed: Khil'at in the Early Modern Age -- 5. Mughal Dress and Spirituality: The Age of Sufi Kings -- Silk, Sufism and Self-Image at the Mughal Court -- Figural Silks from Mughal Manufactories -- Jahangir as King and Lover -- Ghiyath's Legacy at the Mughal Court -- 6. Safavid Figural Silks in Diplomacy: Rare Textiles of Novel Design -- Silk as Commodity in Safavid Iran -- Figural Silk as Safavid Identity: Sherley and His Rivals -- Figural Silk as Diplomatic Gifts -- Safavid and Mughal Gift Giving in Historical Accounts Figural Silks at the Mughal Court -- Conclusion -- Reattribution of the Khamsa Silks Based on Paintings and Poetry -- Textile Designs and Designers -- Sufi Kings in Mughal India and Safavid Iran -- Khusrau and Shirin: Love and Kingship -- Layla and Majnun: Separation and Union -- Deviations from the Khamsa Characters -- Concluding Thoughts -- Appendix A: List of Khamsa Silks -- Appendix B: Summary of 'Shirin and Khusrau' by Amir Khusrau Dihlavi -- Appendix C: Summary of 'Majnun and Layla' by Amir Khusrau Dihlavi -- Glossary of Textile Terms -- Glossary of Persian and Arabic Terms List of Historic Figures -- Index -- List of Illustrations -- Figure 1.1: Textile fragment depicting Layla and Majnun. Attributed to sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk with metal foil -- double cloth. L: 7 7/8 in. (20 cm), W: 5 3/8 in. (13.65 cm). The Textile Museum (1969.36.1). Acquired from the Cooper Hewitt Muse -- Figure 1.2: Textile fragment depicting Khusrau seeing Shirin bathing. Attributed to mid-sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk -- cut velvet. L: 7 1/2 in. (19.1 cm), W: 5 7/8 in. (14.9 cm). Cleveland Museum of Art (1944.499.b). Purchase from the J.H. Wade Fu |
ctrlnum | (OCoLC)1351746725 |
dewey-full | 746.095509031 |
dewey-hundreds | 700 - The arts |
dewey-ones | 746 - Textile arts |
dewey-raw | 746.095509031 |
dewey-search | 746.095509031 |
dewey-sort | 3746.095509031 |
dewey-tens | 740 - Graphic arts and decorative arts |
discipline | Kunstgeschichte |
era | 1500-1699 fast |
era_facet | 1500-1699 |
format | Electronic eBook |
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Silks, Signatures and Self-fashioning -- Khamsa Narrative Silks in Scholarship -- The Famous Naqshband: Unrivalled in the Art of Textile Design -- Craftsmen and Consumers -- Self-Fashioning in the Early Modern Persianate World -- 2. Dressed as King, Lover and Beloved: Khusrau and Shirin -- Lovers from Nizami's Khamsa -- The Romantic Tragedy of Nizami's 'Khusrau and Shirin'</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="8" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Khusrau and Shirin in Paintings and Safavid Silks -- The Gaze and the Body: States of Dress and Undress -- 3. Weaving Stories, Weaving Self: Layla and Majnun as Sufi Icons -- The Mystical Love Story of Nizami's 'Layla and Majnun' -- Layla and Majnun in Poetry, Paintings and Silk Designs -- The Khamsa of Amir Khusrau -- Text and Textile in Sufi Poetry -- Part II -- 4. The Divine Cloak of Majesty: Material Culture in Sufi Practice -- Garments as Gifts of Blessing, Piety and Power -- Chivalry, Spirituality and Materiality in Sufism -- Khirqa: The Cloak of Spiritual Poverty</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="8" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Khamsa Silk as Khirqa? Figural Silks in Islamic Literary Sources -- Enrobed: Khil'at in the Early Modern Age -- 5. Mughal Dress and Spirituality: The Age of Sufi Kings -- Silk, Sufism and Self-Image at the Mughal Court -- Figural Silks from Mughal Manufactories -- Jahangir as King and Lover -- Ghiyath's Legacy at the Mughal Court -- 6. Safavid Figural Silks in Diplomacy: Rare Textiles of Novel Design -- Silk as Commodity in Safavid Iran -- Figural Silk as Safavid Identity: Sherley and His Rivals -- Figural Silk as Diplomatic Gifts -- Safavid and Mughal Gift Giving in Historical Accounts</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="8" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Figural Silks at the Mughal Court -- Conclusion -- Reattribution of the Khamsa Silks Based on Paintings and Poetry -- Textile Designs and Designers -- Sufi Kings in Mughal India and Safavid Iran -- Khusrau and Shirin: Love and Kingship -- Layla and Majnun: Separation and Union -- Deviations from the Khamsa Characters -- Concluding Thoughts -- Appendix A: List of Khamsa Silks -- Appendix B: Summary of 'Shirin and Khusrau' by Amir Khusrau Dihlavi -- Appendix C: Summary of 'Majnun and Layla' by Amir Khusrau Dihlavi -- Glossary of Textile Terms -- Glossary of Persian and Arabic Terms</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="8" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">List of Historic Figures -- Index -- List of Illustrations -- Figure 1.1: Textile fragment depicting Layla and Majnun. Attributed to sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk with metal foil -- double cloth. L: 7 7/8 in. (20 cm), W: 5 3/8 in. (13.65 cm). The Textile Museum (1969.36.1). Acquired from the Cooper Hewitt Muse -- Figure 1.2: Textile fragment depicting Khusrau seeing Shirin bathing. Attributed to mid-sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk -- cut velvet. L: 7 1/2 in. (19.1 cm), W: 5 7/8 in. (14.9 cm). Cleveland Museum of Art (1944.499.b). Purchase from the J.H. Wade Fu</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="500" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Figure 1.3: Textile fragment depicting Layla and Majnun, with the signature 'Work of Ghiyath' (detail), mirrored to show proper direction of the script. Attributed to sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk, with gilded parchment wrapped around silk core</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="504" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Includes bibliographical references and index.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="588" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Description based on online resource; title from digital title page (viewed on December 22, 2022).</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="520" ind1="8" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">This text examines a group of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century figural silks depicting legendary lovers from the Khamsa (Quintet) of epic Persian poetry. Codified by Nizami Ganjavi in the twelfth century, the Khamsa gained popularity in the Persian-speaking realm through illustrated manuscripts produced for the elite, creating a template for illustrating climactic scenes in the love stories of 'Layla and Majnun' and 'Khusrau and Shirin' that appear on early modern silks.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="600" ind1="0" ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Niẓāmī Ganjavī,</subfield><subfield code="d">1140 or 1141-1202 or 1203.</subfield><subfield code="t">Khamsah.</subfield><subfield code="0">http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/n85284702</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="630" ind1="0" ind2="7"><subfield code="a">Khamsah (Niẓāmī Ganjavī)</subfield><subfield code="2">fast</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Textile crafts</subfield><subfield code="z">Iran</subfield><subfield code="x">History</subfield><subfield code="y">16th century.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Textile crafts</subfield><subfield code="z">Iran</subfield><subfield code="x">History</subfield><subfield code="y">17th century.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Silk pictures</subfield><subfield code="z">Iran</subfield><subfield code="x">History.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Women sufis</subfield><subfield code="x">Clothing.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Clothing and dress</subfield><subfield code="x">Religious aspects</subfield><subfield code="x">Islam.</subfield><subfield code="0">http://id.loc.gov/authorities/subjects/sh2003011747</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Clothing and dress</subfield><subfield code="z">Iran</subfield><subfield code="x">History.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="6"><subfield code="a">Illustrations sur soie</subfield><subfield code="z">Iran</subfield><subfield code="x">Histoire.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="6"><subfield code="a">Vêtements</subfield><subfield code="x">Aspect religieux</subfield><subfield code="x">Islam.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="7"><subfield code="a">Clothing and dress</subfield><subfield code="2">fast</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="7"><subfield code="a">Clothing and dress</subfield><subfield code="x">Religious aspects</subfield><subfield code="x">Islam</subfield><subfield code="2">fast</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="7"><subfield code="a">Silk pictures</subfield><subfield code="2">fast</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1=" " ind2="7"><subfield code="a">Textile crafts</subfield><subfield code="2">fast</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="651" ind1=" " ind2="7"><subfield code="a">Iran</subfield><subfield code="2">fast</subfield><subfield code="1">https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJtrYvcVTwChrDqytBvJXd</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="648" ind1=" " ind2="7"><subfield code="a">1500-1699</subfield><subfield code="2">fast</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="655" ind1=" " ind2="7"><subfield code="a">History</subfield><subfield code="2">fast</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="776" ind1="0" ind2="8"><subfield code="i">Print version:</subfield><subfield code="a">Hedayat Munroe, Nazanin</subfield><subfield code="t">Sufi Lovers, Safavid Silks and Early Modern Identity</subfield><subfield code="d">Edinburgh : Amsterdam University Press,c2022</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="830" ind1=" " ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Visual and material culture, 1300-1700 ;</subfield><subfield code="v">41.</subfield><subfield code="0">http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/no2017099120</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="856" ind1="4" ind2="0"><subfield code="l">FWS01</subfield><subfield code="p">ZDB-4-EBA</subfield><subfield code="q">FWS_PDA_EBA</subfield><subfield code="u">https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&scope=site&db=nlebk&AN=3464496</subfield><subfield code="3">Volltext</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="938" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">ProQuest Ebook Central</subfield><subfield code="b">EBLB</subfield><subfield code="n">EBL30256435</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="938" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">EBSCOhost</subfield><subfield code="b">EBSC</subfield><subfield code="n">3464496</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="994" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">92</subfield><subfield code="b">GEBAY</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">ZDB-4-EBA</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="049" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">DE-863</subfield></datafield></record></collection> |
genre | History fast |
genre_facet | History |
geographic | Iran fast https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJtrYvcVTwChrDqytBvJXd |
geographic_facet | Iran |
id | ZDB-4-EBA-on1351746725 |
illustrated | Illustrated |
indexdate | 2024-11-27T13:30:39Z |
institution | BVB |
isbn | 9789048551149 9048551145 |
language | English |
oclc_num | 1351746725 |
open_access_boolean | |
owner | MAIN DE-863 DE-BY-FWS |
owner_facet | MAIN DE-863 DE-BY-FWS |
physical | 1 online resource (248 pages) : illustrations (chiefly color), portraits ; |
psigel | ZDB-4-EBA |
publishDate | 2023 |
publishDateSearch | 2023 |
publishDateSort | 2023 |
publisher | Amsterdam University Press, |
record_format | marc |
series | Visual and material culture, 1300-1700 ; |
series2 | Visual and Material Culture, 1300-1700 ; |
spelling | Munroe, Nazanin Hedayat, author. http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/no2020063310 Sufi lovers, Safavid silks and early modern identity / Nazanin Hedayat Munroe. Amsterdam : Amsterdam University Press, [2023] ©2023 1 online resource (248 pages) : illustrations (chiefly color), portraits ; text txt rdacontent computer c rdamedia online resource cr rdacarrier Visual and Material Culture, 1300-1700 ; v.41 Cover -- Table of Contents -- Acknowledgments -- Note on Transliteration -- Introduction: Material Culture and Mysticism in the Persianate World -- Material Culture and Mysticism -- The Persianate World -- Part I -- 1. Silks, Signatures and Self-fashioning -- Khamsa Narrative Silks in Scholarship -- The Famous Naqshband: Unrivalled in the Art of Textile Design -- Craftsmen and Consumers -- Self-Fashioning in the Early Modern Persianate World -- 2. Dressed as King, Lover and Beloved: Khusrau and Shirin -- Lovers from Nizami's Khamsa -- The Romantic Tragedy of Nizami's 'Khusrau and Shirin' Khusrau and Shirin in Paintings and Safavid Silks -- The Gaze and the Body: States of Dress and Undress -- 3. Weaving Stories, Weaving Self: Layla and Majnun as Sufi Icons -- The Mystical Love Story of Nizami's 'Layla and Majnun' -- Layla and Majnun in Poetry, Paintings and Silk Designs -- The Khamsa of Amir Khusrau -- Text and Textile in Sufi Poetry -- Part II -- 4. The Divine Cloak of Majesty: Material Culture in Sufi Practice -- Garments as Gifts of Blessing, Piety and Power -- Chivalry, Spirituality and Materiality in Sufism -- Khirqa: The Cloak of Spiritual Poverty Khamsa Silk as Khirqa? Figural Silks in Islamic Literary Sources -- Enrobed: Khil'at in the Early Modern Age -- 5. Mughal Dress and Spirituality: The Age of Sufi Kings -- Silk, Sufism and Self-Image at the Mughal Court -- Figural Silks from Mughal Manufactories -- Jahangir as King and Lover -- Ghiyath's Legacy at the Mughal Court -- 6. Safavid Figural Silks in Diplomacy: Rare Textiles of Novel Design -- Silk as Commodity in Safavid Iran -- Figural Silk as Safavid Identity: Sherley and His Rivals -- Figural Silk as Diplomatic Gifts -- Safavid and Mughal Gift Giving in Historical Accounts Figural Silks at the Mughal Court -- Conclusion -- Reattribution of the Khamsa Silks Based on Paintings and Poetry -- Textile Designs and Designers -- Sufi Kings in Mughal India and Safavid Iran -- Khusrau and Shirin: Love and Kingship -- Layla and Majnun: Separation and Union -- Deviations from the Khamsa Characters -- Concluding Thoughts -- Appendix A: List of Khamsa Silks -- Appendix B: Summary of 'Shirin and Khusrau' by Amir Khusrau Dihlavi -- Appendix C: Summary of 'Majnun and Layla' by Amir Khusrau Dihlavi -- Glossary of Textile Terms -- Glossary of Persian and Arabic Terms List of Historic Figures -- Index -- List of Illustrations -- Figure 1.1: Textile fragment depicting Layla and Majnun. Attributed to sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk with metal foil -- double cloth. L: 7 7/8 in. (20 cm), W: 5 3/8 in. (13.65 cm). The Textile Museum (1969.36.1). Acquired from the Cooper Hewitt Muse -- Figure 1.2: Textile fragment depicting Khusrau seeing Shirin bathing. Attributed to mid-sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk -- cut velvet. L: 7 1/2 in. (19.1 cm), W: 5 7/8 in. (14.9 cm). Cleveland Museum of Art (1944.499.b). Purchase from the J.H. Wade Fu Figure 1.3: Textile fragment depicting Layla and Majnun, with the signature 'Work of Ghiyath' (detail), mirrored to show proper direction of the script. Attributed to sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk, with gilded parchment wrapped around silk core Includes bibliographical references and index. Description based on online resource; title from digital title page (viewed on December 22, 2022). This text examines a group of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century figural silks depicting legendary lovers from the Khamsa (Quintet) of epic Persian poetry. Codified by Nizami Ganjavi in the twelfth century, the Khamsa gained popularity in the Persian-speaking realm through illustrated manuscripts produced for the elite, creating a template for illustrating climactic scenes in the love stories of 'Layla and Majnun' and 'Khusrau and Shirin' that appear on early modern silks. Niẓāmī Ganjavī, 1140 or 1141-1202 or 1203. Khamsah. http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/n85284702 Khamsah (Niẓāmī Ganjavī) fast Textile crafts Iran History 16th century. Textile crafts Iran History 17th century. Silk pictures Iran History. Women sufis Clothing. Clothing and dress Religious aspects Islam. http://id.loc.gov/authorities/subjects/sh2003011747 Clothing and dress Iran History. Illustrations sur soie Iran Histoire. Vêtements Aspect religieux Islam. Clothing and dress fast Clothing and dress Religious aspects Islam fast Silk pictures fast Textile crafts fast Iran fast https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJtrYvcVTwChrDqytBvJXd 1500-1699 fast History fast Print version: Hedayat Munroe, Nazanin Sufi Lovers, Safavid Silks and Early Modern Identity Edinburgh : Amsterdam University Press,c2022 Visual and material culture, 1300-1700 ; 41. http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/no2017099120 FWS01 ZDB-4-EBA FWS_PDA_EBA https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&scope=site&db=nlebk&AN=3464496 Volltext |
spellingShingle | Munroe, Nazanin Hedayat Sufi lovers, Safavid silks and early modern identity / Visual and material culture, 1300-1700 ; Cover -- Table of Contents -- Acknowledgments -- Note on Transliteration -- Introduction: Material Culture and Mysticism in the Persianate World -- Material Culture and Mysticism -- The Persianate World -- Part I -- 1. Silks, Signatures and Self-fashioning -- Khamsa Narrative Silks in Scholarship -- The Famous Naqshband: Unrivalled in the Art of Textile Design -- Craftsmen and Consumers -- Self-Fashioning in the Early Modern Persianate World -- 2. Dressed as King, Lover and Beloved: Khusrau and Shirin -- Lovers from Nizami's Khamsa -- The Romantic Tragedy of Nizami's 'Khusrau and Shirin' Khusrau and Shirin in Paintings and Safavid Silks -- The Gaze and the Body: States of Dress and Undress -- 3. Weaving Stories, Weaving Self: Layla and Majnun as Sufi Icons -- The Mystical Love Story of Nizami's 'Layla and Majnun' -- Layla and Majnun in Poetry, Paintings and Silk Designs -- The Khamsa of Amir Khusrau -- Text and Textile in Sufi Poetry -- Part II -- 4. The Divine Cloak of Majesty: Material Culture in Sufi Practice -- Garments as Gifts of Blessing, Piety and Power -- Chivalry, Spirituality and Materiality in Sufism -- Khirqa: The Cloak of Spiritual Poverty Khamsa Silk as Khirqa? Figural Silks in Islamic Literary Sources -- Enrobed: Khil'at in the Early Modern Age -- 5. Mughal Dress and Spirituality: The Age of Sufi Kings -- Silk, Sufism and Self-Image at the Mughal Court -- Figural Silks from Mughal Manufactories -- Jahangir as King and Lover -- Ghiyath's Legacy at the Mughal Court -- 6. Safavid Figural Silks in Diplomacy: Rare Textiles of Novel Design -- Silk as Commodity in Safavid Iran -- Figural Silk as Safavid Identity: Sherley and His Rivals -- Figural Silk as Diplomatic Gifts -- Safavid and Mughal Gift Giving in Historical Accounts Figural Silks at the Mughal Court -- Conclusion -- Reattribution of the Khamsa Silks Based on Paintings and Poetry -- Textile Designs and Designers -- Sufi Kings in Mughal India and Safavid Iran -- Khusrau and Shirin: Love and Kingship -- Layla and Majnun: Separation and Union -- Deviations from the Khamsa Characters -- Concluding Thoughts -- Appendix A: List of Khamsa Silks -- Appendix B: Summary of 'Shirin and Khusrau' by Amir Khusrau Dihlavi -- Appendix C: Summary of 'Majnun and Layla' by Amir Khusrau Dihlavi -- Glossary of Textile Terms -- Glossary of Persian and Arabic Terms List of Historic Figures -- Index -- List of Illustrations -- Figure 1.1: Textile fragment depicting Layla and Majnun. Attributed to sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk with metal foil -- double cloth. L: 7 7/8 in. (20 cm), W: 5 3/8 in. (13.65 cm). The Textile Museum (1969.36.1). Acquired from the Cooper Hewitt Muse -- Figure 1.2: Textile fragment depicting Khusrau seeing Shirin bathing. Attributed to mid-sixteenth century, Safavid Iran. Silk -- cut velvet. L: 7 1/2 in. (19.1 cm), W: 5 7/8 in. (14.9 cm). Cleveland Museum of Art (1944.499.b). Purchase from the J.H. Wade Fu Niẓāmī Ganjavī, 1140 or 1141-1202 or 1203. Khamsah. http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/n85284702 Khamsah (Niẓāmī Ganjavī) fast Textile crafts Iran History 16th century. Textile crafts Iran History 17th century. Silk pictures Iran History. Women sufis Clothing. Clothing and dress Religious aspects Islam. http://id.loc.gov/authorities/subjects/sh2003011747 Clothing and dress Iran History. Illustrations sur soie Iran Histoire. Vêtements Aspect religieux Islam. Clothing and dress fast Clothing and dress Religious aspects Islam fast Silk pictures fast Textile crafts fast |
subject_GND | http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/n85284702 http://id.loc.gov/authorities/subjects/sh2003011747 |
title | Sufi lovers, Safavid silks and early modern identity / |
title_auth | Sufi lovers, Safavid silks and early modern identity / |
title_exact_search | Sufi lovers, Safavid silks and early modern identity / |
title_full | Sufi lovers, Safavid silks and early modern identity / Nazanin Hedayat Munroe. |
title_fullStr | Sufi lovers, Safavid silks and early modern identity / Nazanin Hedayat Munroe. |
title_full_unstemmed | Sufi lovers, Safavid silks and early modern identity / Nazanin Hedayat Munroe. |
title_short | Sufi lovers, Safavid silks and early modern identity / |
title_sort | sufi lovers safavid silks and early modern identity |
topic | Niẓāmī Ganjavī, 1140 or 1141-1202 or 1203. Khamsah. http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/n85284702 Khamsah (Niẓāmī Ganjavī) fast Textile crafts Iran History 16th century. Textile crafts Iran History 17th century. Silk pictures Iran History. Women sufis Clothing. Clothing and dress Religious aspects Islam. http://id.loc.gov/authorities/subjects/sh2003011747 Clothing and dress Iran History. Illustrations sur soie Iran Histoire. Vêtements Aspect religieux Islam. Clothing and dress fast Clothing and dress Religious aspects Islam fast Silk pictures fast Textile crafts fast |
topic_facet | Niẓāmī Ganjavī, 1140 or 1141-1202 or 1203. Khamsah. Khamsah (Niẓāmī Ganjavī) Textile crafts Iran History 16th century. Textile crafts Iran History 17th century. Silk pictures Iran History. Women sufis Clothing. Clothing and dress Religious aspects Islam. Clothing and dress Iran History. Illustrations sur soie Iran Histoire. Vêtements Aspect religieux Islam. Clothing and dress Clothing and dress Religious aspects Islam Silk pictures Textile crafts Iran History |
url | https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&scope=site&db=nlebk&AN=3464496 |
work_keys_str_mv | AT munroenazaninhedayat sufiloverssafavidsilksandearlymodernidentity |