Fashion and jazz :: dress, identity and subcultural improvisation /
"Born in the late 19th century, jazz gained mainstream popularity during a volatile period of racial segregation and gender inequality. It was in these adverse conditions that jazz performers discovered the power of dress as a visual tool used to defy mainstream societal constructs, shaping a n...
Gespeichert in:
| 1. Verfasser: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Elektronisch E-Book |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
London ; New York :
Bloomsbury Academic,
2015.
|
| Schriftenreihe: | Dress, body, culture.
|
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Volltext |
| Zusammenfassung: | "Born in the late 19th century, jazz gained mainstream popularity during a volatile period of racial segregation and gender inequality. It was in these adverse conditions that jazz performers discovered the power of dress as a visual tool used to defy mainstream societal constructs, shaping a new fashion and style aesthetic. Fashion and Jazz is the first study to identify the behaviours, signs and meanings that defined this newly evolving subcultural style. Drawing on fashion studies and cultural theory, the book provides an in-depth analysis of the social and political entanglements of jazz and dress, with individual chapters exploring key themes such as race, class and gender. Including a wide variety of case studies, ranging from Billie Holliday and Ella Fitzgerald to Louis Armstrong and Chet Baker, it presents a critical and cultural analysis of jazz performers as modern icons of fashion and popular style. Addressing a number of previously underexplored areas of jazz culture, such as modern dandyism and the link between drug use and glamorous dress, Fashion and Jazz provides a fascinating history of fashion's dialogue with African-American art and style. It is essential reading for students of fashion, cultural studies, African-American studies and history"-- |
| Beschreibung: | 1 online resource (xvi, 194 pages) : illustrations |
| Bibliographie: | Includes bibliographical references, discography, filmography and index. |
| ISBN: | 9780857851291 0857851292 9781350051195 1350051195 |
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| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Fashion and jazz : |b dress, identity and subcultural improvisation / |c Alphonso D. McClendon. |
| 264 | 1 | |a London ; |a New York : |b Bloomsbury Academic, |c 2015. | |
| 264 | 4 | |c ©2015 | |
| 300 | |a 1 online resource (xvi, 194 pages) : |b illustrations | ||
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| 490 | 1 | |a Dress, body, culture | |
| 504 | |a Includes bibliographical references, discography, filmography and index. | ||
| 520 | |a "Born in the late 19th century, jazz gained mainstream popularity during a volatile period of racial segregation and gender inequality. It was in these adverse conditions that jazz performers discovered the power of dress as a visual tool used to defy mainstream societal constructs, shaping a new fashion and style aesthetic. Fashion and Jazz is the first study to identify the behaviours, signs and meanings that defined this newly evolving subcultural style. Drawing on fashion studies and cultural theory, the book provides an in-depth analysis of the social and political entanglements of jazz and dress, with individual chapters exploring key themes such as race, class and gender. Including a wide variety of case studies, ranging from Billie Holliday and Ella Fitzgerald to Louis Armstrong and Chet Baker, it presents a critical and cultural analysis of jazz performers as modern icons of fashion and popular style. Addressing a number of previously underexplored areas of jazz culture, such as modern dandyism and the link between drug use and glamorous dress, Fashion and Jazz provides a fascinating history of fashion's dialogue with African-American art and style. It is essential reading for students of fashion, cultural studies, African-American studies and history"-- |c Provided by publisher | ||
| 588 | 0 | |a Print version record. | |
| 505 | 0 | |a Cover page; Halftitle page; Series page; Title page; Copyright page; Contents; Illustrations; ACKNOWLEDGMENTS; INTRODUCTION; Signifi cance of a fashion and jazz history; 1 DRESS THEORY, FASHION AND A JAZZ AESTHETIC; Pattern of influence between fashion and jazz; Freedom of expression in fashion and jazz; The role of fashion; A language of dress in jazz; The influential fashion system; The representation of dress; Defining a jazz aesthetic; Conclusion; 2 A STYLISH HISTORY OF JAZZ: 1900-1960; Origins of jazz expression; Ragtime music; Ragtime era fashion; Blues music; Blues era fashion. | |
| 505 | 8 | |a Swing musicSwing era fashion; Bebop music; Bebop era fashion; Modern jazz: Music and fashion; Conclusion; 3 A NARRATIVE OF JAZZ MODERNITY; Postmodern identity in jazz; Qualities of modernism in jazz; Modern ideals in fashion; Visually modern; Communicating modernity; Modern practices of jazz performers; Conclusion; 4 ASSESSING ELITISM AND BRANDING IN JAZZ; Societal opposition to jazz; An elite identity; Male dress conformity; Evolution of feminine attraction; Signifying class distinction; Exhibiting an eccentric manner; Branding jazz in advertising; Classic marketing of jazz. | |
| 505 | 8 | |a Contemporary marketing of jazzConclusion; 5 GENDERED IDENTITIES, IDEOLOGIES AND CULTURAL DIFFERENCE; Functions of published sheet music; Imagining black culture; Female representations: Mammy, highbrow and temptress; Male representations: Servant, buffoon and sport; Conclusion; 6 SUBVERSIVE REPRESENTATION: VERNACULAR, DRESS AND MORALITY; Radical notions of jazz; Spoken word of blues singers; Jazz themes in literature; Visual image in fi lms; Conclusion; 7 NARCOTICS AND JAZZ: A FASHIONABLE ADDICTION; Narcotic effect; Demonizing drug addiction; Concealing addiction with fashion. | |
| 505 | 8 | |a Performing addiction in filmConclusion; 8 BEYOND THE GARDENIA: BILLIE HOLIDAY; Plain dame; Lost in Hollywood; Lady's day; 1930s: Draped in tradition; 1940s: An icon emerges; 1950s: Beyond the gardenia; Conclusion; 9 AESTHETICS OF THE JAZZ DANDY; Like Gods; Traditional dandy: Duke Ellington; Traditional dandy: Benny Carter; Modern dandy: Dizzy Gillespie; Modern dandy: Gerry Mulligan; Decoding jazz aesthetics in Clinton and Obama; 10 PHILADELPHIA NIGHTLIFE, NOSTALGIA AND POPULAR CULTURE; Philadelphia: Jazz city unsung; Desiring jazz prestige; Last call; CODA; APPENDIX I: RECOMMENDED LISTENING. | |
| 505 | 8 | |a APPENDIX II: RECOMMENDED VIEWINGBIBLIOGRAPHY; INDEX; Untitled. | |
| 650 | 0 | |a Clothing and dress |x History. |0 http://id.loc.gov/authorities/subjects/sh2003012061 | |
| 650 | 0 | |a Fashion |x History. | |
| 650 | 0 | |a Jazz |x Social aspects. | |
| 650 | 7 | |a DESIGN |x Fashion. |2 bisacsh | |
| 650 | 7 | |a MUSIC |x Genres & Styles |x Jazz. |2 bisacsh | |
| 650 | 7 | |a HEALTH & FITNESS |x Beauty & Grooming. |2 bisacsh | |
| 650 | 7 | |a Clothing and dress |2 fast | |
| 650 | 7 | |a Fashion |2 fast | |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
| DE-BY-FWS_katkey | ZDB-4-EBA-ocn898070341 |
|---|---|
| _version_ | 1816882297007243264 |
| adam_text | |
| any_adam_object | |
| author | McClendon, Alphonso |
| author_facet | McClendon, Alphonso |
| author_role | aut |
| author_sort | McClendon, Alphonso |
| author_variant | a m am |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | localFWS |
| callnumber-first | G - Geography, Anthropology, Recreation |
| callnumber-label | GT596 |
| callnumber-raw | GT596 .M378 2015eb |
| callnumber-search | GT596 .M378 2015eb |
| callnumber-sort | GT 3596 M378 42015EB |
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| collection | ZDB-4-EBA |
| contents | Cover page; Halftitle page; Series page; Title page; Copyright page; Contents; Illustrations; ACKNOWLEDGMENTS; INTRODUCTION; Signifi cance of a fashion and jazz history; 1 DRESS THEORY, FASHION AND A JAZZ AESTHETIC; Pattern of influence between fashion and jazz; Freedom of expression in fashion and jazz; The role of fashion; A language of dress in jazz; The influential fashion system; The representation of dress; Defining a jazz aesthetic; Conclusion; 2 A STYLISH HISTORY OF JAZZ: 1900-1960; Origins of jazz expression; Ragtime music; Ragtime era fashion; Blues music; Blues era fashion. Swing musicSwing era fashion; Bebop music; Bebop era fashion; Modern jazz: Music and fashion; Conclusion; 3 A NARRATIVE OF JAZZ MODERNITY; Postmodern identity in jazz; Qualities of modernism in jazz; Modern ideals in fashion; Visually modern; Communicating modernity; Modern practices of jazz performers; Conclusion; 4 ASSESSING ELITISM AND BRANDING IN JAZZ; Societal opposition to jazz; An elite identity; Male dress conformity; Evolution of feminine attraction; Signifying class distinction; Exhibiting an eccentric manner; Branding jazz in advertising; Classic marketing of jazz. Contemporary marketing of jazzConclusion; 5 GENDERED IDENTITIES, IDEOLOGIES AND CULTURAL DIFFERENCE; Functions of published sheet music; Imagining black culture; Female representations: Mammy, highbrow and temptress; Male representations: Servant, buffoon and sport; Conclusion; 6 SUBVERSIVE REPRESENTATION: VERNACULAR, DRESS AND MORALITY; Radical notions of jazz; Spoken word of blues singers; Jazz themes in literature; Visual image in fi lms; Conclusion; 7 NARCOTICS AND JAZZ: A FASHIONABLE ADDICTION; Narcotic effect; Demonizing drug addiction; Concealing addiction with fashion. Performing addiction in filmConclusion; 8 BEYOND THE GARDENIA: BILLIE HOLIDAY; Plain dame; Lost in Hollywood; Lady's day; 1930s: Draped in tradition; 1940s: An icon emerges; 1950s: Beyond the gardenia; Conclusion; 9 AESTHETICS OF THE JAZZ DANDY; Like Gods; Traditional dandy: Duke Ellington; Traditional dandy: Benny Carter; Modern dandy: Dizzy Gillespie; Modern dandy: Gerry Mulligan; Decoding jazz aesthetics in Clinton and Obama; 10 PHILADELPHIA NIGHTLIFE, NOSTALGIA AND POPULAR CULTURE; Philadelphia: Jazz city unsung; Desiring jazz prestige; Last call; CODA; APPENDIX I: RECOMMENDED LISTENING. APPENDIX II: RECOMMENDED VIEWINGBIBLIOGRAPHY; INDEX; Untitled. |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)898070341 |
| dewey-full | 391 |
| dewey-hundreds | 300 - Social sciences |
| dewey-ones | 391 - Costume and personal appearance |
| dewey-raw | 391 |
| dewey-search | 391 |
| dewey-sort | 3391 |
| dewey-tens | 390 - Customs, etiquette, folklore |
| discipline | Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
| format | Electronic eBook |
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Addressing a number of previously underexplored areas of jazz culture, such as modern dandyism and the link between drug use and glamorous dress, Fashion and Jazz provides a fascinating history of fashion's dialogue with African-American art and style. 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| genre | History fast |
| genre_facet | History |
| id | ZDB-4-EBA-ocn898070341 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2024-11-27T13:26:22Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9780857851291 0857851292 9781350051195 1350051195 |
| language | English |
| oclc_num | 898070341 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | MAIN DE-863 DE-BY-FWS |
| owner_facet | MAIN DE-863 DE-BY-FWS |
| physical | 1 online resource (xvi, 194 pages) : illustrations |
| psigel | ZDB-4-EBA |
| publishDate | 2015 |
| publishDateSearch | 2015 |
| publishDateSort | 2015 |
| publisher | Bloomsbury Academic, |
| record_format | marc |
| series | Dress, body, culture. |
| series2 | Dress, body, culture |
| spelling | McClendon, Alphonso, author. Fashion and jazz : dress, identity and subcultural improvisation / Alphonso D. McClendon. London ; New York : Bloomsbury Academic, 2015. ©2015 1 online resource (xvi, 194 pages) : illustrations text txt rdacontent computer c rdamedia online resource cr rdacarrier Dress, body, culture Includes bibliographical references, discography, filmography and index. "Born in the late 19th century, jazz gained mainstream popularity during a volatile period of racial segregation and gender inequality. It was in these adverse conditions that jazz performers discovered the power of dress as a visual tool used to defy mainstream societal constructs, shaping a new fashion and style aesthetic. Fashion and Jazz is the first study to identify the behaviours, signs and meanings that defined this newly evolving subcultural style. Drawing on fashion studies and cultural theory, the book provides an in-depth analysis of the social and political entanglements of jazz and dress, with individual chapters exploring key themes such as race, class and gender. Including a wide variety of case studies, ranging from Billie Holliday and Ella Fitzgerald to Louis Armstrong and Chet Baker, it presents a critical and cultural analysis of jazz performers as modern icons of fashion and popular style. Addressing a number of previously underexplored areas of jazz culture, such as modern dandyism and the link between drug use and glamorous dress, Fashion and Jazz provides a fascinating history of fashion's dialogue with African-American art and style. It is essential reading for students of fashion, cultural studies, African-American studies and history"-- Provided by publisher Print version record. Cover page; Halftitle page; Series page; Title page; Copyright page; Contents; Illustrations; ACKNOWLEDGMENTS; INTRODUCTION; Signifi cance of a fashion and jazz history; 1 DRESS THEORY, FASHION AND A JAZZ AESTHETIC; Pattern of influence between fashion and jazz; Freedom of expression in fashion and jazz; The role of fashion; A language of dress in jazz; The influential fashion system; The representation of dress; Defining a jazz aesthetic; Conclusion; 2 A STYLISH HISTORY OF JAZZ: 1900-1960; Origins of jazz expression; Ragtime music; Ragtime era fashion; Blues music; Blues era fashion. Swing musicSwing era fashion; Bebop music; Bebop era fashion; Modern jazz: Music and fashion; Conclusion; 3 A NARRATIVE OF JAZZ MODERNITY; Postmodern identity in jazz; Qualities of modernism in jazz; Modern ideals in fashion; Visually modern; Communicating modernity; Modern practices of jazz performers; Conclusion; 4 ASSESSING ELITISM AND BRANDING IN JAZZ; Societal opposition to jazz; An elite identity; Male dress conformity; Evolution of feminine attraction; Signifying class distinction; Exhibiting an eccentric manner; Branding jazz in advertising; Classic marketing of jazz. Contemporary marketing of jazzConclusion; 5 GENDERED IDENTITIES, IDEOLOGIES AND CULTURAL DIFFERENCE; Functions of published sheet music; Imagining black culture; Female representations: Mammy, highbrow and temptress; Male representations: Servant, buffoon and sport; Conclusion; 6 SUBVERSIVE REPRESENTATION: VERNACULAR, DRESS AND MORALITY; Radical notions of jazz; Spoken word of blues singers; Jazz themes in literature; Visual image in fi lms; Conclusion; 7 NARCOTICS AND JAZZ: A FASHIONABLE ADDICTION; Narcotic effect; Demonizing drug addiction; Concealing addiction with fashion. Performing addiction in filmConclusion; 8 BEYOND THE GARDENIA: BILLIE HOLIDAY; Plain dame; Lost in Hollywood; Lady's day; 1930s: Draped in tradition; 1940s: An icon emerges; 1950s: Beyond the gardenia; Conclusion; 9 AESTHETICS OF THE JAZZ DANDY; Like Gods; Traditional dandy: Duke Ellington; Traditional dandy: Benny Carter; Modern dandy: Dizzy Gillespie; Modern dandy: Gerry Mulligan; Decoding jazz aesthetics in Clinton and Obama; 10 PHILADELPHIA NIGHTLIFE, NOSTALGIA AND POPULAR CULTURE; Philadelphia: Jazz city unsung; Desiring jazz prestige; Last call; CODA; APPENDIX I: RECOMMENDED LISTENING. APPENDIX II: RECOMMENDED VIEWINGBIBLIOGRAPHY; INDEX; Untitled. Clothing and dress History. http://id.loc.gov/authorities/subjects/sh2003012061 Fashion History. Jazz Social aspects. DESIGN Fashion. bisacsh MUSIC Genres & Styles Jazz. bisacsh HEALTH & FITNESS Beauty & Grooming. bisacsh Clothing and dress fast Fashion fast Jazz Social aspects fast Mode gnd http://d-nb.info/gnd/4039792-0 Jazz gnd http://d-nb.info/gnd/4028532-7 History fast has work: Fashion and jazz (Text) https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PD3hGDgDRFRKRkYFQgFRPtq https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/ontology/hasWork Print version: McClendon, Alphonso. Fashion and jazz. London ; New York : Bloomsbury Academic, 2015 9780857851277 (DLC) 2014022528 (OCoLC)871508688 Dress, body, culture. http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/no97056947 FWS01 ZDB-4-EBA FWS_PDA_EBA https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&scope=site&db=nlebk&AN=923327 Volltext |
| spellingShingle | McClendon, Alphonso Fashion and jazz : dress, identity and subcultural improvisation / Dress, body, culture. Cover page; Halftitle page; Series page; Title page; Copyright page; Contents; Illustrations; ACKNOWLEDGMENTS; INTRODUCTION; Signifi cance of a fashion and jazz history; 1 DRESS THEORY, FASHION AND A JAZZ AESTHETIC; Pattern of influence between fashion and jazz; Freedom of expression in fashion and jazz; The role of fashion; A language of dress in jazz; The influential fashion system; The representation of dress; Defining a jazz aesthetic; Conclusion; 2 A STYLISH HISTORY OF JAZZ: 1900-1960; Origins of jazz expression; Ragtime music; Ragtime era fashion; Blues music; Blues era fashion. Swing musicSwing era fashion; Bebop music; Bebop era fashion; Modern jazz: Music and fashion; Conclusion; 3 A NARRATIVE OF JAZZ MODERNITY; Postmodern identity in jazz; Qualities of modernism in jazz; Modern ideals in fashion; Visually modern; Communicating modernity; Modern practices of jazz performers; Conclusion; 4 ASSESSING ELITISM AND BRANDING IN JAZZ; Societal opposition to jazz; An elite identity; Male dress conformity; Evolution of feminine attraction; Signifying class distinction; Exhibiting an eccentric manner; Branding jazz in advertising; Classic marketing of jazz. Contemporary marketing of jazzConclusion; 5 GENDERED IDENTITIES, IDEOLOGIES AND CULTURAL DIFFERENCE; Functions of published sheet music; Imagining black culture; Female representations: Mammy, highbrow and temptress; Male representations: Servant, buffoon and sport; Conclusion; 6 SUBVERSIVE REPRESENTATION: VERNACULAR, DRESS AND MORALITY; Radical notions of jazz; Spoken word of blues singers; Jazz themes in literature; Visual image in fi lms; Conclusion; 7 NARCOTICS AND JAZZ: A FASHIONABLE ADDICTION; Narcotic effect; Demonizing drug addiction; Concealing addiction with fashion. Performing addiction in filmConclusion; 8 BEYOND THE GARDENIA: BILLIE HOLIDAY; Plain dame; Lost in Hollywood; Lady's day; 1930s: Draped in tradition; 1940s: An icon emerges; 1950s: Beyond the gardenia; Conclusion; 9 AESTHETICS OF THE JAZZ DANDY; Like Gods; Traditional dandy: Duke Ellington; Traditional dandy: Benny Carter; Modern dandy: Dizzy Gillespie; Modern dandy: Gerry Mulligan; Decoding jazz aesthetics in Clinton and Obama; 10 PHILADELPHIA NIGHTLIFE, NOSTALGIA AND POPULAR CULTURE; Philadelphia: Jazz city unsung; Desiring jazz prestige; Last call; CODA; APPENDIX I: RECOMMENDED LISTENING. APPENDIX II: RECOMMENDED VIEWINGBIBLIOGRAPHY; INDEX; Untitled. Clothing and dress History. http://id.loc.gov/authorities/subjects/sh2003012061 Fashion History. Jazz Social aspects. DESIGN Fashion. bisacsh MUSIC Genres & Styles Jazz. bisacsh HEALTH & FITNESS Beauty & Grooming. bisacsh Clothing and dress fast Fashion fast Jazz Social aspects fast Mode gnd http://d-nb.info/gnd/4039792-0 Jazz gnd http://d-nb.info/gnd/4028532-7 |
| subject_GND | http://id.loc.gov/authorities/subjects/sh2003012061 http://d-nb.info/gnd/4039792-0 http://d-nb.info/gnd/4028532-7 |
| title | Fashion and jazz : dress, identity and subcultural improvisation / |
| title_auth | Fashion and jazz : dress, identity and subcultural improvisation / |
| title_exact_search | Fashion and jazz : dress, identity and subcultural improvisation / |
| title_full | Fashion and jazz : dress, identity and subcultural improvisation / Alphonso D. McClendon. |
| title_fullStr | Fashion and jazz : dress, identity and subcultural improvisation / Alphonso D. McClendon. |
| title_full_unstemmed | Fashion and jazz : dress, identity and subcultural improvisation / Alphonso D. McClendon. |
| title_short | Fashion and jazz : |
| title_sort | fashion and jazz dress identity and subcultural improvisation |
| title_sub | dress, identity and subcultural improvisation / |
| topic | Clothing and dress History. http://id.loc.gov/authorities/subjects/sh2003012061 Fashion History. Jazz Social aspects. DESIGN Fashion. bisacsh MUSIC Genres & Styles Jazz. bisacsh HEALTH & FITNESS Beauty & Grooming. bisacsh Clothing and dress fast Fashion fast Jazz Social aspects fast Mode gnd http://d-nb.info/gnd/4039792-0 Jazz gnd http://d-nb.info/gnd/4028532-7 |
| topic_facet | Clothing and dress History. Fashion History. Jazz Social aspects. DESIGN Fashion. MUSIC Genres & Styles Jazz. HEALTH & FITNESS Beauty & Grooming. Clothing and dress Fashion Jazz Social aspects Mode Jazz History |
| url | https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&scope=site&db=nlebk&AN=923327 |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT mcclendonalphonso fashionandjazzdressidentityandsubculturalimprovisation |