Advertising menswear :: masculinity and fashion in the British media since 1945 /
In what was a golden age of British advertising, the notion of the ''peacock male'' was a strong theme in fashion promotion, reflecting a new affluence and the emergence of stylish youth cultures. Based on a detailed study of rich archival material, this pioneering study examines...
Gespeichert in:
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| Format: | Elektronisch E-Book |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
London ; New York :
Bloomsbury,
2014.
|
| Schriftenreihe: | Dress and fashion research.
|
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Volltext |
| Zusammenfassung: | In what was a golden age of British advertising, the notion of the ''peacock male'' was a strong theme in fashion promotion, reflecting a new affluence and the emergence of stylish youth cultures. Based on a detailed study of rich archival material, this pioneering study examines the production, circulation and consumption of print, television and cinema publicity for men''s clothing in Britain during the second half of the twentieth century. The study explores design issues and period style in advertising, the role of market research and consumer psychology in determining target audiences, |
| Beschreibung: | 1 online resource (xiv, 254 pages) : illustrations |
| Bibliographie: | Includes bibliographical references (pages 239-252) and index. |
| ISBN: | 9781472558107 1472558103 |
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| 100 | 1 | |a Jobling, Paul, |e author. |0 http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/n95112891 | |
| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Advertising menswear : |b masculinity and fashion in the British media since 1945 / |c Paul Jobling. |
| 264 | 1 | |a London ; |a New York : |b Bloomsbury, |c 2014. | |
| 264 | 4 | |c ©2014 | |
| 300 | |a 1 online resource (xiv, 254 pages) : |b illustrations | ||
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| 490 | 1 | |a Dress and fashion research | |
| 504 | |a Includes bibliographical references (pages 239-252) and index. | ||
| 505 | 0 | |a Machine generated contents note: pt. ONE GOING FOR A BURTON: MENSWEAR ADVERTISING FROM AUSTERITY TO AFFLUENCE, 1945-57 -- 1. The Post-war Market for Men's Clothing -- Key themes: The rationing and Utility schemes; class and earnings -- 2. Menswear Advertising: Agents, Accounts and Audiences: 'Will It Be Seen? Will It Be Remembered? Will It Be "Accepted"?' -- Key themes: The IPA social groups, target audiences and consumer categorization -- 3. The Economics of Press Advertising -- Key themes: Newspaper and periodical readerships; advertising rates and product placement -- 4. The Design and Rhetoric of Menswear Press Advertisements -- Key themes: The use of illustration and photography; the commercial artist and copywriter; Barratt shoes; Austin Reed; Zero and ICI Terylene -- 5. The Art versus Commerce Debate. | |
| 505 | 0 | |a Contents note continued: Key themes: Eric Newton, Mary Gowing and the Women's Advertising Club; taste and class; the use of type forms and intertextuality of word and image; the Layton Award; W.S. Crawford, Ashley Havinden and Daks; the 'cut-off' body and spectatorship -- 6. Poster Publicity and Menswear -- Key themes: Regulation of sites and circulation costs; poster visibility; Baracuta; Moss Brothers; Abram Games -- 7. Early Commercial Television and Menswear, 1955-60 -- Key themes: ITV and regionalism; production and circulation costs; Burton's Rael Brook shirts -- 8. The Impact of Consumer Psychology and Motivation Research -- Key themes: Walter Dill Scott; Mass Observation and the Advertising Service Guild survey; Ernst Dichter; Vance Packard; McCann-Erickson and the personality of the product -- 9. 'Feeling with' and 'Feeling into': Appealing to Men and Women. | |
| 505 | 0 | |a Contents note continued: Key themes: Gender and consumption patterns; shirts and underwear; Lyle and Scott y-fronts, visual pleasure and tactility; Maurice Merleau-Ponty on seeing and touching; Freud, fetishism and phallic power -- 10. The Turn to New Consumers and Youth Culture -- Key themes: Neo-Edwardianism; Teddy boys and bricolage fashion; clothing, colour and decoration; Burton's and the male peacock -- pt. TWO THINKING YOUNG: MENSWEAR ADVERTISING AND THE GENERATION GAME, 1958-78 -- 11. Sedimenting the Youth Market -- Key themes: Class, earnings and clothing expenditure; the male peacock; boutique culture and mods -- 12. Cinema and Television Advertising for Menswear -- Key themes: Markets and viewers; straight versus symbolic selling -- 13. Menswear Advertising in Newspapers and Magazines -- Key themes: Readerships, advertising rates and product placement; the impact of photography; the rise of the colour supplements -- 14. Poster Publicity and Menswear. | |
| 505 | 0 | |a Contents note continued: Key themes: Visibility and receptivity; advertising for shirts and Tootal's 'girl' -- 15. 'You Bring the Body, We've Got the Clothes': Publicity for Tailors -- Key themes: John Collier and 'The Window to Watch'; the male peacock; Burton's and brand identity -- 16. From Dummies to Dandies -- Key themes: Hector Powe and the tailor's dummy; Austin Reed, the gentleman and the dandy -- 17. Ironing out the Creases: Artificial Fibres and Menswear Advertising -- Key themes: Du Pont; Bri Nylon; polyester; acrylic; Terylene; shirts and trousers -- 18. Synthesizing Sex: Publicity for Artificial and Natural Fibres -- Key themes: Visual pleasure and gender; Terylene; Dormeuil mohair -- 19. 'Cloth for Men': Wool and the Whisper of Darker Things in Dormeuil's Tonik Press Campaign, 1968-75 -- Key themes: Dormeuil Tonik; transvestism; androgyny; decadence; narcissism; style revivalism; camp -- 20. Looking Good, Feeling Good: Materiality and the Interplay of the Senses. | |
| 505 | 0 | |a Contents note continued: Key themes: Dormeuil Tonik; Austin Reed; Viyella; haptic visuality -- 21. Getting More for Your Money: Menswear Publicity and the 1970s Recession -- Key themes: The impact of inflation and unemployment on consumer spending; the changing of the guard from suits to casual wear -- pt. THREE LEADER OF THE PACK: JEANS ADVERTISING SINCE THE 1960s -- 22. The Jeans Market and Advertising between 1950 and 1985 -- Key themes: Levi's, Wrangler and Brutus press and moving image publicity; the music soundtrack; advertising production costs; jeans sales and age groups -- 23. Levi's 501: Back to the Future? -- Key themes: Bartle, Bogle and Hegarty; the 'Bath' and 'Laundrette' (1985) campaigns and style revivalism -- 24. Here Comes New Man --- Again -- Key themes: Haptic visuality and erotics; the male body and visual pleasure; the male consumer, street style and the style press; 'dual marketing' to straights and gays. | |
| 505 | 0 | |a Contents note continued: 25. A Soundtrack for Consumerism: Music, Image and Myth -- Key themes: Levi's, Wrangler and Lee; the music token; the music and image narrative; myth -- 26. More Than Just a Number: A New Style of Advertising for the 1990s -- Key themes: Wrangler, 'Crosstown Traffic' (1990) and verite; Levi's, `Settler's Creek' (1994), photography and the chronotope -- 27. Racial Sameness and Racial Difference -- Key themes: The advertising industry and institutional racism; black male models; Levi's and race; 'Taxi' (1985), transsexuality and race -- 28. From 'Mothers' to 'Flat Eric': Race, Gender, Age and Generation -- Key themes: Mimicry and the black subject in Hush Puppies publicity; Levi's and age; the downturn in the jeans market and the shift to experimental advertising; the rise of laddism, Ben Sherman and Levi's 'Flat Eric' (1999). | |
| 588 | 0 | |a Print version record. | |
| 520 | |a In what was a golden age of British advertising, the notion of the ''peacock male'' was a strong theme in fashion promotion, reflecting a new affluence and the emergence of stylish youth cultures. Based on a detailed study of rich archival material, this pioneering study examines the production, circulation and consumption of print, television and cinema publicity for men''s clothing in Britain during the second half of the twentieth century. The study explores design issues and period style in advertising, the role of market research and consumer psychology in determining target audiences, | ||
| 546 | |a English. | ||
| 650 | 0 | |a Advertising |x Men's clothing |z Great Britain |x History |y 20th century. | |
| 650 | 6 | |a Vêtements d'homme |x Publicité |z Grande-Bretagne |x Histoire |y 20e siècle. | |
| 650 | 7 | |a Fashion & society. |2 bicssc | |
| 650 | 7 | |a Gender studies, gender groups. |2 bicssc | |
| 650 | 7 | |a History of fashion. |2 bicssc | |
| 650 | 7 | |a BUSINESS & ECONOMICS |x Advertising & Promotion. |2 bisacsh | |
| 650 | 7 | |a Advertising |x Men's clothing |2 fast | |
| 651 | 7 | |a Great Britain |2 fast |1 https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJdmp7p3cx8hpmJ8HvmTpP | |
| 650 | 7 | |a Business and Management. |2 ukslc | |
| 648 | 7 | |a 1900-1999 |2 fast | |
| 655 | 7 | |a History |2 fast | |
| 758 | |i has work: |a Advertising menswear (Text) |1 https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PCFCB7XDgR6MMJmTMjJCfMd |4 https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/ontology/hasWork | ||
| 776 | 0 | 8 | |i Print version: |a Jobling, Paul. |t Advertising menswear. |d London ; New York : Bloomsbury, 2014 |z 9781472533432 |w (DLC) 2013045221 |w (OCoLC)857981375 |
| 830 | 0 | |a Dress and fashion research. |0 http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/no2014111812 | |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
| DE-BY-FWS_katkey | ZDB-4-EBA-ocn871005026 |
|---|---|
| _version_ | 1816882262583541761 |
| adam_text | |
| any_adam_object | |
| author | Jobling, Paul |
| author_GND | http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/n95112891 |
| author_facet | Jobling, Paul |
| author_role | aut |
| author_sort | Jobling, Paul |
| author_variant | p j pj |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | localFWS |
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| callnumber-raw | HF6161.M38 J6195 2014 |
| callnumber-search | HF6161.M38 J6195 2014 |
| callnumber-sort | HF 46161 M38 J6195 42014 |
| callnumber-subject | HF - Commerce |
| collection | ZDB-4-EBA |
| contents | Machine generated contents note: pt. ONE GOING FOR A BURTON: MENSWEAR ADVERTISING FROM AUSTERITY TO AFFLUENCE, 1945-57 -- 1. The Post-war Market for Men's Clothing -- Key themes: The rationing and Utility schemes; class and earnings -- 2. Menswear Advertising: Agents, Accounts and Audiences: 'Will It Be Seen? Will It Be Remembered? Will It Be "Accepted"?' -- Key themes: The IPA social groups, target audiences and consumer categorization -- 3. The Economics of Press Advertising -- Key themes: Newspaper and periodical readerships; advertising rates and product placement -- 4. The Design and Rhetoric of Menswear Press Advertisements -- Key themes: The use of illustration and photography; the commercial artist and copywriter; Barratt shoes; Austin Reed; Zero and ICI Terylene -- 5. The Art versus Commerce Debate. Contents note continued: Key themes: Eric Newton, Mary Gowing and the Women's Advertising Club; taste and class; the use of type forms and intertextuality of word and image; the Layton Award; W.S. Crawford, Ashley Havinden and Daks; the 'cut-off' body and spectatorship -- 6. Poster Publicity and Menswear -- Key themes: Regulation of sites and circulation costs; poster visibility; Baracuta; Moss Brothers; Abram Games -- 7. Early Commercial Television and Menswear, 1955-60 -- Key themes: ITV and regionalism; production and circulation costs; Burton's Rael Brook shirts -- 8. The Impact of Consumer Psychology and Motivation Research -- Key themes: Walter Dill Scott; Mass Observation and the Advertising Service Guild survey; Ernst Dichter; Vance Packard; McCann-Erickson and the personality of the product -- 9. 'Feeling with' and 'Feeling into': Appealing to Men and Women. Contents note continued: Key themes: Gender and consumption patterns; shirts and underwear; Lyle and Scott y-fronts, visual pleasure and tactility; Maurice Merleau-Ponty on seeing and touching; Freud, fetishism and phallic power -- 10. The Turn to New Consumers and Youth Culture -- Key themes: Neo-Edwardianism; Teddy boys and bricolage fashion; clothing, colour and decoration; Burton's and the male peacock -- pt. TWO THINKING YOUNG: MENSWEAR ADVERTISING AND THE GENERATION GAME, 1958-78 -- 11. Sedimenting the Youth Market -- Key themes: Class, earnings and clothing expenditure; the male peacock; boutique culture and mods -- 12. Cinema and Television Advertising for Menswear -- Key themes: Markets and viewers; straight versus symbolic selling -- 13. Menswear Advertising in Newspapers and Magazines -- Key themes: Readerships, advertising rates and product placement; the impact of photography; the rise of the colour supplements -- 14. Poster Publicity and Menswear. Contents note continued: Key themes: Visibility and receptivity; advertising for shirts and Tootal's 'girl' -- 15. 'You Bring the Body, We've Got the Clothes': Publicity for Tailors -- Key themes: John Collier and 'The Window to Watch'; the male peacock; Burton's and brand identity -- 16. From Dummies to Dandies -- Key themes: Hector Powe and the tailor's dummy; Austin Reed, the gentleman and the dandy -- 17. Ironing out the Creases: Artificial Fibres and Menswear Advertising -- Key themes: Du Pont; Bri Nylon; polyester; acrylic; Terylene; shirts and trousers -- 18. Synthesizing Sex: Publicity for Artificial and Natural Fibres -- Key themes: Visual pleasure and gender; Terylene; Dormeuil mohair -- 19. 'Cloth for Men': Wool and the Whisper of Darker Things in Dormeuil's Tonik Press Campaign, 1968-75 -- Key themes: Dormeuil Tonik; transvestism; androgyny; decadence; narcissism; style revivalism; camp -- 20. Looking Good, Feeling Good: Materiality and the Interplay of the Senses. Contents note continued: Key themes: Dormeuil Tonik; Austin Reed; Viyella; haptic visuality -- 21. Getting More for Your Money: Menswear Publicity and the 1970s Recession -- Key themes: The impact of inflation and unemployment on consumer spending; the changing of the guard from suits to casual wear -- pt. THREE LEADER OF THE PACK: JEANS ADVERTISING SINCE THE 1960s -- 22. The Jeans Market and Advertising between 1950 and 1985 -- Key themes: Levi's, Wrangler and Brutus press and moving image publicity; the music soundtrack; advertising production costs; jeans sales and age groups -- 23. Levi's 501: Back to the Future? -- Key themes: Bartle, Bogle and Hegarty; the 'Bath' and 'Laundrette' (1985) campaigns and style revivalism -- 24. Here Comes New Man --- Again -- Key themes: Haptic visuality and erotics; the male body and visual pleasure; the male consumer, street style and the style press; 'dual marketing' to straights and gays. Contents note continued: 25. A Soundtrack for Consumerism: Music, Image and Myth -- Key themes: Levi's, Wrangler and Lee; the music token; the music and image narrative; myth -- 26. More Than Just a Number: A New Style of Advertising for the 1990s -- Key themes: Wrangler, 'Crosstown Traffic' (1990) and verite; Levi's, `Settler's Creek' (1994), photography and the chronotope -- 27. Racial Sameness and Racial Difference -- Key themes: The advertising industry and institutional racism; black male models; Levi's and race; 'Taxi' (1985), transsexuality and race -- 28. From 'Mothers' to 'Flat Eric': Race, Gender, Age and Generation -- Key themes: Mimicry and the black subject in Hush Puppies publicity; Levi's and age; the downturn in the jeans market and the shift to experimental advertising; the rise of laddism, Ben Sherman and Levi's 'Flat Eric' (1999). |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)871005026 |
| dewey-full | 659.19/687 |
| dewey-hundreds | 600 - Technology (Applied sciences) |
| dewey-ones | 659 - Advertising and public relations |
| dewey-raw | 659.19/687 |
| dewey-search | 659.19/687 |
| dewey-sort | 3659.19 3687 |
| dewey-tens | 650 - Management and auxiliary services |
| discipline | Wirtschaftswissenschaften |
| era | 1900-1999 fast |
| era_facet | 1900-1999 |
| format | Electronic eBook |
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ONE GOING FOR A BURTON: MENSWEAR ADVERTISING FROM AUSTERITY TO AFFLUENCE, 1945-57 -- 1. The Post-war Market for Men's Clothing -- Key themes: The rationing and Utility schemes; class and earnings -- 2. Menswear Advertising: Agents, Accounts and Audiences: 'Will It Be Seen? Will It Be Remembered? Will It Be "Accepted"?' -- Key themes: The IPA social groups, target audiences and consumer categorization -- 3. The Economics of Press Advertising -- Key themes: Newspaper and periodical readerships; advertising rates and product placement -- 4. The Design and Rhetoric of Menswear Press Advertisements -- Key themes: The use of illustration and photography; the commercial artist and copywriter; Barratt shoes; Austin Reed; Zero and ICI Terylene -- 5. The Art versus Commerce Debate.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Contents note continued: Key themes: Eric Newton, Mary Gowing and the Women's Advertising Club; taste and class; the use of type forms and intertextuality of word and image; the Layton Award; W.S. Crawford, Ashley Havinden and Daks; the 'cut-off' body and spectatorship -- 6. Poster Publicity and Menswear -- Key themes: Regulation of sites and circulation costs; poster visibility; Baracuta; Moss Brothers; Abram Games -- 7. Early Commercial Television and Menswear, 1955-60 -- Key themes: ITV and regionalism; production and circulation costs; Burton's Rael Brook shirts -- 8. The Impact of Consumer Psychology and Motivation Research -- Key themes: Walter Dill Scott; Mass Observation and the Advertising Service Guild survey; Ernst Dichter; Vance Packard; McCann-Erickson and the personality of the product -- 9. 'Feeling with' and 'Feeling into': Appealing to Men and Women.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Contents note continued: Key themes: Gender and consumption patterns; shirts and underwear; Lyle and Scott y-fronts, visual pleasure and tactility; Maurice Merleau-Ponty on seeing and touching; Freud, fetishism and phallic power -- 10. The Turn to New Consumers and Youth Culture -- Key themes: Neo-Edwardianism; Teddy boys and bricolage fashion; clothing, colour and decoration; Burton's and the male peacock -- pt. TWO THINKING YOUNG: MENSWEAR ADVERTISING AND THE GENERATION GAME, 1958-78 -- 11. Sedimenting the Youth Market -- Key themes: Class, earnings and clothing expenditure; the male peacock; boutique culture and mods -- 12. Cinema and Television Advertising for Menswear -- Key themes: Markets and viewers; straight versus symbolic selling -- 13. Menswear Advertising in Newspapers and Magazines -- Key themes: Readerships, advertising rates and product placement; the impact of photography; the rise of the colour supplements -- 14. Poster Publicity and Menswear.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Contents note continued: Key themes: Visibility and receptivity; advertising for shirts and Tootal's 'girl' -- 15. 'You Bring the Body, We've Got the Clothes': Publicity for Tailors -- Key themes: John Collier and 'The Window to Watch'; the male peacock; Burton's and brand identity -- 16. From Dummies to Dandies -- Key themes: Hector Powe and the tailor's dummy; Austin Reed, the gentleman and the dandy -- 17. Ironing out the Creases: Artificial Fibres and Menswear Advertising -- Key themes: Du Pont; Bri Nylon; polyester; acrylic; Terylene; shirts and trousers -- 18. Synthesizing Sex: Publicity for Artificial and Natural Fibres -- Key themes: Visual pleasure and gender; Terylene; Dormeuil mohair -- 19. 'Cloth for Men': Wool and the Whisper of Darker Things in Dormeuil's Tonik Press Campaign, 1968-75 -- Key themes: Dormeuil Tonik; transvestism; androgyny; decadence; narcissism; style revivalism; camp -- 20. Looking Good, Feeling Good: Materiality and the Interplay of the Senses.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Contents note continued: Key themes: Dormeuil Tonik; Austin Reed; Viyella; haptic visuality -- 21. Getting More for Your Money: Menswear Publicity and the 1970s Recession -- Key themes: The impact of inflation and unemployment on consumer spending; the changing of the guard from suits to casual wear -- pt. THREE LEADER OF THE PACK: JEANS ADVERTISING SINCE THE 1960s -- 22. The Jeans Market and Advertising between 1950 and 1985 -- Key themes: Levi's, Wrangler and Brutus press and moving image publicity; the music soundtrack; advertising production costs; jeans sales and age groups -- 23. Levi's 501: Back to the Future? -- Key themes: Bartle, Bogle and Hegarty; the 'Bath' and 'Laundrette' (1985) campaigns and style revivalism -- 24. Here Comes New Man --- Again -- Key themes: Haptic visuality and erotics; the male body and visual pleasure; the male consumer, street style and the style press; 'dual marketing' to straights and gays.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="505" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Contents note continued: 25. A Soundtrack for Consumerism: Music, Image and Myth -- Key themes: Levi's, Wrangler and Lee; the music token; the music and image narrative; myth -- 26. More Than Just a Number: A New Style of Advertising for the 1990s -- Key themes: Wrangler, 'Crosstown Traffic' (1990) and verite; Levi's, `Settler's Creek' (1994), photography and the chronotope -- 27. Racial Sameness and Racial Difference -- Key themes: The advertising industry and institutional racism; black male models; Levi's and race; 'Taxi' (1985), transsexuality and race -- 28. From 'Mothers' to 'Flat Eric': Race, Gender, Age and Generation -- Key themes: Mimicry and the black subject in Hush Puppies publicity; Levi's and age; the downturn in the jeans market and the shift to experimental advertising; the rise of laddism, Ben Sherman and Levi's 'Flat Eric' (1999).</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="588" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Print version record.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="520" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">In what was a golden age of British advertising, the notion of the ''peacock male'' was a strong theme in fashion promotion, reflecting a new affluence and the emergence of stylish youth cultures. Based on a detailed study of rich archival material, this pioneering study examines the production, circulation and consumption of print, television and cinema publicity for men''s clothing in Britain during the second half of the twentieth century. 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| genre | History fast |
| genre_facet | History |
| geographic | Great Britain fast https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJdmp7p3cx8hpmJ8HvmTpP |
| geographic_facet | Great Britain |
| id | ZDB-4-EBA-ocn871005026 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2024-11-27T13:25:48Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9781472558107 1472558103 |
| language | English |
| oclc_num | 871005026 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | MAIN DE-863 DE-BY-FWS |
| owner_facet | MAIN DE-863 DE-BY-FWS |
| physical | 1 online resource (xiv, 254 pages) : illustrations |
| psigel | ZDB-4-EBA |
| publishDate | 2014 |
| publishDateSearch | 2014 |
| publishDateSort | 2014 |
| publisher | Bloomsbury, |
| record_format | marc |
| series | Dress and fashion research. |
| series2 | Dress and fashion research |
| spelling | Jobling, Paul, author. http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/n95112891 Advertising menswear : masculinity and fashion in the British media since 1945 / Paul Jobling. London ; New York : Bloomsbury, 2014. ©2014 1 online resource (xiv, 254 pages) : illustrations text txt rdacontent computer c rdamedia online resource cr rdacarrier Dress and fashion research Includes bibliographical references (pages 239-252) and index. Machine generated contents note: pt. ONE GOING FOR A BURTON: MENSWEAR ADVERTISING FROM AUSTERITY TO AFFLUENCE, 1945-57 -- 1. The Post-war Market for Men's Clothing -- Key themes: The rationing and Utility schemes; class and earnings -- 2. Menswear Advertising: Agents, Accounts and Audiences: 'Will It Be Seen? Will It Be Remembered? Will It Be "Accepted"?' -- Key themes: The IPA social groups, target audiences and consumer categorization -- 3. The Economics of Press Advertising -- Key themes: Newspaper and periodical readerships; advertising rates and product placement -- 4. The Design and Rhetoric of Menswear Press Advertisements -- Key themes: The use of illustration and photography; the commercial artist and copywriter; Barratt shoes; Austin Reed; Zero and ICI Terylene -- 5. The Art versus Commerce Debate. Contents note continued: Key themes: Eric Newton, Mary Gowing and the Women's Advertising Club; taste and class; the use of type forms and intertextuality of word and image; the Layton Award; W.S. Crawford, Ashley Havinden and Daks; the 'cut-off' body and spectatorship -- 6. Poster Publicity and Menswear -- Key themes: Regulation of sites and circulation costs; poster visibility; Baracuta; Moss Brothers; Abram Games -- 7. Early Commercial Television and Menswear, 1955-60 -- Key themes: ITV and regionalism; production and circulation costs; Burton's Rael Brook shirts -- 8. The Impact of Consumer Psychology and Motivation Research -- Key themes: Walter Dill Scott; Mass Observation and the Advertising Service Guild survey; Ernst Dichter; Vance Packard; McCann-Erickson and the personality of the product -- 9. 'Feeling with' and 'Feeling into': Appealing to Men and Women. Contents note continued: Key themes: Gender and consumption patterns; shirts and underwear; Lyle and Scott y-fronts, visual pleasure and tactility; Maurice Merleau-Ponty on seeing and touching; Freud, fetishism and phallic power -- 10. The Turn to New Consumers and Youth Culture -- Key themes: Neo-Edwardianism; Teddy boys and bricolage fashion; clothing, colour and decoration; Burton's and the male peacock -- pt. TWO THINKING YOUNG: MENSWEAR ADVERTISING AND THE GENERATION GAME, 1958-78 -- 11. Sedimenting the Youth Market -- Key themes: Class, earnings and clothing expenditure; the male peacock; boutique culture and mods -- 12. Cinema and Television Advertising for Menswear -- Key themes: Markets and viewers; straight versus symbolic selling -- 13. Menswear Advertising in Newspapers and Magazines -- Key themes: Readerships, advertising rates and product placement; the impact of photography; the rise of the colour supplements -- 14. Poster Publicity and Menswear. Contents note continued: Key themes: Visibility and receptivity; advertising for shirts and Tootal's 'girl' -- 15. 'You Bring the Body, We've Got the Clothes': Publicity for Tailors -- Key themes: John Collier and 'The Window to Watch'; the male peacock; Burton's and brand identity -- 16. From Dummies to Dandies -- Key themes: Hector Powe and the tailor's dummy; Austin Reed, the gentleman and the dandy -- 17. Ironing out the Creases: Artificial Fibres and Menswear Advertising -- Key themes: Du Pont; Bri Nylon; polyester; acrylic; Terylene; shirts and trousers -- 18. Synthesizing Sex: Publicity for Artificial and Natural Fibres -- Key themes: Visual pleasure and gender; Terylene; Dormeuil mohair -- 19. 'Cloth for Men': Wool and the Whisper of Darker Things in Dormeuil's Tonik Press Campaign, 1968-75 -- Key themes: Dormeuil Tonik; transvestism; androgyny; decadence; narcissism; style revivalism; camp -- 20. Looking Good, Feeling Good: Materiality and the Interplay of the Senses. Contents note continued: Key themes: Dormeuil Tonik; Austin Reed; Viyella; haptic visuality -- 21. Getting More for Your Money: Menswear Publicity and the 1970s Recession -- Key themes: The impact of inflation and unemployment on consumer spending; the changing of the guard from suits to casual wear -- pt. THREE LEADER OF THE PACK: JEANS ADVERTISING SINCE THE 1960s -- 22. The Jeans Market and Advertising between 1950 and 1985 -- Key themes: Levi's, Wrangler and Brutus press and moving image publicity; the music soundtrack; advertising production costs; jeans sales and age groups -- 23. Levi's 501: Back to the Future? -- Key themes: Bartle, Bogle and Hegarty; the 'Bath' and 'Laundrette' (1985) campaigns and style revivalism -- 24. Here Comes New Man --- Again -- Key themes: Haptic visuality and erotics; the male body and visual pleasure; the male consumer, street style and the style press; 'dual marketing' to straights and gays. Contents note continued: 25. A Soundtrack for Consumerism: Music, Image and Myth -- Key themes: Levi's, Wrangler and Lee; the music token; the music and image narrative; myth -- 26. More Than Just a Number: A New Style of Advertising for the 1990s -- Key themes: Wrangler, 'Crosstown Traffic' (1990) and verite; Levi's, `Settler's Creek' (1994), photography and the chronotope -- 27. Racial Sameness and Racial Difference -- Key themes: The advertising industry and institutional racism; black male models; Levi's and race; 'Taxi' (1985), transsexuality and race -- 28. From 'Mothers' to 'Flat Eric': Race, Gender, Age and Generation -- Key themes: Mimicry and the black subject in Hush Puppies publicity; Levi's and age; the downturn in the jeans market and the shift to experimental advertising; the rise of laddism, Ben Sherman and Levi's 'Flat Eric' (1999). Print version record. In what was a golden age of British advertising, the notion of the ''peacock male'' was a strong theme in fashion promotion, reflecting a new affluence and the emergence of stylish youth cultures. Based on a detailed study of rich archival material, this pioneering study examines the production, circulation and consumption of print, television and cinema publicity for men''s clothing in Britain during the second half of the twentieth century. The study explores design issues and period style in advertising, the role of market research and consumer psychology in determining target audiences, English. Advertising Men's clothing Great Britain History 20th century. Vêtements d'homme Publicité Grande-Bretagne Histoire 20e siècle. Fashion & society. bicssc Gender studies, gender groups. bicssc History of fashion. bicssc BUSINESS & ECONOMICS Advertising & Promotion. bisacsh Advertising Men's clothing fast Great Britain fast https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PBJdmp7p3cx8hpmJ8HvmTpP Business and Management. ukslc 1900-1999 fast History fast has work: Advertising menswear (Text) https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/entity/E39PCFCB7XDgR6MMJmTMjJCfMd https://id.oclc.org/worldcat/ontology/hasWork Print version: Jobling, Paul. Advertising menswear. London ; New York : Bloomsbury, 2014 9781472533432 (DLC) 2013045221 (OCoLC)857981375 Dress and fashion research. http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/no2014111812 FWS01 ZDB-4-EBA FWS_PDA_EBA https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&scope=site&db=nlebk&AN=706125 Volltext |
| spellingShingle | Jobling, Paul Advertising menswear : masculinity and fashion in the British media since 1945 / Dress and fashion research. Machine generated contents note: pt. ONE GOING FOR A BURTON: MENSWEAR ADVERTISING FROM AUSTERITY TO AFFLUENCE, 1945-57 -- 1. The Post-war Market for Men's Clothing -- Key themes: The rationing and Utility schemes; class and earnings -- 2. Menswear Advertising: Agents, Accounts and Audiences: 'Will It Be Seen? Will It Be Remembered? Will It Be "Accepted"?' -- Key themes: The IPA social groups, target audiences and consumer categorization -- 3. The Economics of Press Advertising -- Key themes: Newspaper and periodical readerships; advertising rates and product placement -- 4. The Design and Rhetoric of Menswear Press Advertisements -- Key themes: The use of illustration and photography; the commercial artist and copywriter; Barratt shoes; Austin Reed; Zero and ICI Terylene -- 5. The Art versus Commerce Debate. Contents note continued: Key themes: Eric Newton, Mary Gowing and the Women's Advertising Club; taste and class; the use of type forms and intertextuality of word and image; the Layton Award; W.S. Crawford, Ashley Havinden and Daks; the 'cut-off' body and spectatorship -- 6. Poster Publicity and Menswear -- Key themes: Regulation of sites and circulation costs; poster visibility; Baracuta; Moss Brothers; Abram Games -- 7. Early Commercial Television and Menswear, 1955-60 -- Key themes: ITV and regionalism; production and circulation costs; Burton's Rael Brook shirts -- 8. The Impact of Consumer Psychology and Motivation Research -- Key themes: Walter Dill Scott; Mass Observation and the Advertising Service Guild survey; Ernst Dichter; Vance Packard; McCann-Erickson and the personality of the product -- 9. 'Feeling with' and 'Feeling into': Appealing to Men and Women. Contents note continued: Key themes: Gender and consumption patterns; shirts and underwear; Lyle and Scott y-fronts, visual pleasure and tactility; Maurice Merleau-Ponty on seeing and touching; Freud, fetishism and phallic power -- 10. The Turn to New Consumers and Youth Culture -- Key themes: Neo-Edwardianism; Teddy boys and bricolage fashion; clothing, colour and decoration; Burton's and the male peacock -- pt. TWO THINKING YOUNG: MENSWEAR ADVERTISING AND THE GENERATION GAME, 1958-78 -- 11. Sedimenting the Youth Market -- Key themes: Class, earnings and clothing expenditure; the male peacock; boutique culture and mods -- 12. Cinema and Television Advertising for Menswear -- Key themes: Markets and viewers; straight versus symbolic selling -- 13. Menswear Advertising in Newspapers and Magazines -- Key themes: Readerships, advertising rates and product placement; the impact of photography; the rise of the colour supplements -- 14. Poster Publicity and Menswear. Contents note continued: Key themes: Visibility and receptivity; advertising for shirts and Tootal's 'girl' -- 15. 'You Bring the Body, We've Got the Clothes': Publicity for Tailors -- Key themes: John Collier and 'The Window to Watch'; the male peacock; Burton's and brand identity -- 16. From Dummies to Dandies -- Key themes: Hector Powe and the tailor's dummy; Austin Reed, the gentleman and the dandy -- 17. Ironing out the Creases: Artificial Fibres and Menswear Advertising -- Key themes: Du Pont; Bri Nylon; polyester; acrylic; Terylene; shirts and trousers -- 18. Synthesizing Sex: Publicity for Artificial and Natural Fibres -- Key themes: Visual pleasure and gender; Terylene; Dormeuil mohair -- 19. 'Cloth for Men': Wool and the Whisper of Darker Things in Dormeuil's Tonik Press Campaign, 1968-75 -- Key themes: Dormeuil Tonik; transvestism; androgyny; decadence; narcissism; style revivalism; camp -- 20. Looking Good, Feeling Good: Materiality and the Interplay of the Senses. Contents note continued: Key themes: Dormeuil Tonik; Austin Reed; Viyella; haptic visuality -- 21. Getting More for Your Money: Menswear Publicity and the 1970s Recession -- Key themes: The impact of inflation and unemployment on consumer spending; the changing of the guard from suits to casual wear -- pt. THREE LEADER OF THE PACK: JEANS ADVERTISING SINCE THE 1960s -- 22. The Jeans Market and Advertising between 1950 and 1985 -- Key themes: Levi's, Wrangler and Brutus press and moving image publicity; the music soundtrack; advertising production costs; jeans sales and age groups -- 23. Levi's 501: Back to the Future? -- Key themes: Bartle, Bogle and Hegarty; the 'Bath' and 'Laundrette' (1985) campaigns and style revivalism -- 24. Here Comes New Man --- Again -- Key themes: Haptic visuality and erotics; the male body and visual pleasure; the male consumer, street style and the style press; 'dual marketing' to straights and gays. Contents note continued: 25. A Soundtrack for Consumerism: Music, Image and Myth -- Key themes: Levi's, Wrangler and Lee; the music token; the music and image narrative; myth -- 26. More Than Just a Number: A New Style of Advertising for the 1990s -- Key themes: Wrangler, 'Crosstown Traffic' (1990) and verite; Levi's, `Settler's Creek' (1994), photography and the chronotope -- 27. Racial Sameness and Racial Difference -- Key themes: The advertising industry and institutional racism; black male models; Levi's and race; 'Taxi' (1985), transsexuality and race -- 28. From 'Mothers' to 'Flat Eric': Race, Gender, Age and Generation -- Key themes: Mimicry and the black subject in Hush Puppies publicity; Levi's and age; the downturn in the jeans market and the shift to experimental advertising; the rise of laddism, Ben Sherman and Levi's 'Flat Eric' (1999). Advertising Men's clothing Great Britain History 20th century. Vêtements d'homme Publicité Grande-Bretagne Histoire 20e siècle. Fashion & society. bicssc Gender studies, gender groups. bicssc History of fashion. bicssc BUSINESS & ECONOMICS Advertising & Promotion. bisacsh Advertising Men's clothing fast Business and Management. ukslc |
| title | Advertising menswear : masculinity and fashion in the British media since 1945 / |
| title_auth | Advertising menswear : masculinity and fashion in the British media since 1945 / |
| title_exact_search | Advertising menswear : masculinity and fashion in the British media since 1945 / |
| title_full | Advertising menswear : masculinity and fashion in the British media since 1945 / Paul Jobling. |
| title_fullStr | Advertising menswear : masculinity and fashion in the British media since 1945 / Paul Jobling. |
| title_full_unstemmed | Advertising menswear : masculinity and fashion in the British media since 1945 / Paul Jobling. |
| title_short | Advertising menswear : |
| title_sort | advertising menswear masculinity and fashion in the british media since 1945 |
| title_sub | masculinity and fashion in the British media since 1945 / |
| topic | Advertising Men's clothing Great Britain History 20th century. Vêtements d'homme Publicité Grande-Bretagne Histoire 20e siècle. Fashion & society. bicssc Gender studies, gender groups. bicssc History of fashion. bicssc BUSINESS & ECONOMICS Advertising & Promotion. bisacsh Advertising Men's clothing fast Business and Management. ukslc |
| topic_facet | Advertising Men's clothing Great Britain History 20th century. Vêtements d'homme Publicité Grande-Bretagne Histoire 20e siècle. Fashion & society. Gender studies, gender groups. History of fashion. BUSINESS & ECONOMICS Advertising & Promotion. Advertising Men's clothing Great Britain Business and Management. History |
| url | https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&scope=site&db=nlebk&AN=706125 |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT joblingpaul advertisingmenswearmasculinityandfashioninthebritishmediasince1945 |