From sleepwear to sportswear: how beach pajamas reshaped women's fashion
"How did women begin wearing pants? Prior to the 1920s it was a rarity to see women in pants in the Western world, but as the silk pajama trouser suit moved from the boudoir to the beach in the early 1920s it cemented the image of the trousered woman. Worn by Jean Harlow and Marlene Dietrich, p...
Gespeichert in:
Hauptverfasser: | , |
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Format: | Buch |
Sprache: | English |
Veröffentlicht: |
New York ; London ; Oxford ; New Delhi ; Sydney
Bloomsbury Academic
2024
|
Schlagworte: | |
Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
Zusammenfassung: | "How did women begin wearing pants? Prior to the 1920s it was a rarity to see women in pants in the Western world, but as the silk pajama trouser suit moved from the boudoir to the beach in the early 1920s it cemented the image of the trousered woman. Worn by Jean Harlow and Marlene Dietrich, painted by Raoul Dufy and immortalized in F. Scott Fitzgerald's Tender is the Night, between the two world wars pajamas came to symbolize much more than sleepwear. This book explores how the pajama phenomenon was not only critical to the careers of designers such as Chanel, Patou, Poiret, and Schiaparelli, but how the versatile garment was also bound to the independence of women and influenced culture more broadly. Through meticulous research and never-before-seen images, the authors position pajama fashion in the context of the Golden Age of Travel, the rise of Hollywood, and the changing political climate of the early 20th century, to reveal how the rising trend in sleepwear influenced The American Look, modern sportswear, and the image of the trousered woman." |
Beschreibung: | xiii, 256 Seiten Illustrationen (teilweise farbig) 24,6 x 18,9 cm |
ISBN: | 9781350231924 9781350231931 |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
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adam_text |
CONTENTS List of Illustrations ix Acknowledgments xiv Introduction 1 1 Beach Pajama Origins 9 Eastern Pajamas and the Western Imagination 9 Sleeping Pajamas and Lounging Pajamas 12 The Ballets Russes 21 Paul Poiret and the Jupe-culotte 22 Early Gym Wear and Swimwear 28 Concluding Notes 32 2 Beach Pajamas: 1919-27 35 The Advent of Beach Pajamas: “No More Sunburned Knees” 37 The Rise of Resort Culture 42 The Lido: “Pajamaland” 47 Pajamas on American Beaches 60 Early Beach Pajama Styles 64 Controversy: “She Shocked Palm Beach!” 84 Mary Nowitzky 92 Concluding Notes 99 3 Beach Pajamas: 1927-39 101 The French Riviera: “The Chic World Turns Proletarian” 101 Sporting and the Rise of Athleticism 117 Nautical Style 127 Sun Worship 140 The Great Depression: Ready-to-wear, Tubfast, and Homesewn 150 Workwear Influences 157 Concluding Notes 166
viïi 4 CONTENTS Beach Pajamas’ Influence 167 Pajamas and Modernity 168 Collegiate Fashions 179 Evening and Formal Pajamas 184 Hollywood: “Over the Footlights to the Public” 194 The Beginnings of American Sportswear 206 Concluding Notes 220 Conclusion 221 Notes 227 Bibliography 241 Index 253 |
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author | D'Agati, Janine Schiff, Hannah |
author_GND | (DE-588)1327621258 (DE-588)1327621428 |
author_facet | D'Agati, Janine Schiff, Hannah |
author_role | aut aut |
author_sort | D'Agati, Janine |
author_variant | j d jd h s hs |
building | Verbundindex |
bvnumber | BV049622597 |
contents | 1. Beach Pajama Origins -- 2. Beach Pajamas: 1919-27 -- 3. Beach Pajamas: 1927-39 -- 4. Beach Pajamas' Influence |
ctrlnum | (OCoLC)1435426720 (DE-599)BVBBV049622597 |
dewey-full | 391.2 |
dewey-hundreds | 300 - Social sciences |
dewey-ones | 391 - Costume and personal appearance |
dewey-raw | 391.2 |
dewey-search | 391.2 |
dewey-sort | 3391.2 |
dewey-tens | 390 - Customs, etiquette, folklore |
discipline | Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
discipline_str_mv | Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
era | Geschichte gnd |
era_facet | Geschichte |
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id | DE-604.BV049622597 |
illustrated | Illustrated |
index_date | 2024-07-03T23:37:20Z |
indexdate | 2024-11-11T09:05:00Z |
institution | BVB |
isbn | 9781350231924 9781350231931 |
language | English |
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physical | xiii, 256 Seiten Illustrationen (teilweise farbig) 24,6 x 18,9 cm |
psigel | BSB_NED_20240708 |
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publisher | Bloomsbury Academic |
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spelling | D'Agati, Janine Verfasser (DE-588)1327621258 aut From sleepwear to sportswear how beach pajamas reshaped women's fashion Janine D'Agati and Hannah Schiff New York ; London ; Oxford ; New Delhi ; Sydney Bloomsbury Academic 2024 xiii, 256 Seiten Illustrationen (teilweise farbig) 24,6 x 18,9 cm txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier 1. Beach Pajama Origins -- 2. Beach Pajamas: 1919-27 -- 3. Beach Pajamas: 1927-39 -- 4. Beach Pajamas' Influence "How did women begin wearing pants? Prior to the 1920s it was a rarity to see women in pants in the Western world, but as the silk pajama trouser suit moved from the boudoir to the beach in the early 1920s it cemented the image of the trousered woman. Worn by Jean Harlow and Marlene Dietrich, painted by Raoul Dufy and immortalized in F. Scott Fitzgerald's Tender is the Night, between the two world wars pajamas came to symbolize much more than sleepwear. This book explores how the pajama phenomenon was not only critical to the careers of designers such as Chanel, Patou, Poiret, and Schiaparelli, but how the versatile garment was also bound to the independence of women and influenced culture more broadly. Through meticulous research and never-before-seen images, the authors position pajama fashion in the context of the Golden Age of Travel, the rise of Hollywood, and the changing political climate of the early 20th century, to reveal how the rising trend in sleepwear influenced The American Look, modern sportswear, and the image of the trousered woman." Geschichte gnd rswk-swf Damenhose (DE-588)4342727-3 gnd rswk-swf Schlafanzug (DE-588)4367350-8 gnd rswk-swf Women's clothing / History / 20th century Pajamas / History Pants / History Women's clothing 1900-1999 History Schlafanzug (DE-588)4367350-8 s Damenhose (DE-588)4342727-3 s Geschichte z DE-604 Schiff, Hannah Verfasser (DE-588)1327621428 aut Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe, PDF 978-1-3502-3195-5 Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe, EPUB 978-1-3502-3197-9 Digitalisierung BSB München - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=034966614&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
spellingShingle | D'Agati, Janine Schiff, Hannah From sleepwear to sportswear how beach pajamas reshaped women's fashion 1. Beach Pajama Origins -- 2. Beach Pajamas: 1919-27 -- 3. Beach Pajamas: 1927-39 -- 4. Beach Pajamas' Influence Damenhose (DE-588)4342727-3 gnd Schlafanzug (DE-588)4367350-8 gnd |
subject_GND | (DE-588)4342727-3 (DE-588)4367350-8 |
title | From sleepwear to sportswear how beach pajamas reshaped women's fashion |
title_alt | How beach pajamas reshaped women's fashion |
title_auth | From sleepwear to sportswear how beach pajamas reshaped women's fashion |
title_exact_search | From sleepwear to sportswear how beach pajamas reshaped women's fashion |
title_exact_search_txtP | From sleepwear to sportswear how beach pajamas reshaped women's fashion |
title_full | From sleepwear to sportswear how beach pajamas reshaped women's fashion Janine D'Agati and Hannah Schiff |
title_fullStr | From sleepwear to sportswear how beach pajamas reshaped women's fashion Janine D'Agati and Hannah Schiff |
title_full_unstemmed | From sleepwear to sportswear how beach pajamas reshaped women's fashion Janine D'Agati and Hannah Schiff |
title_short | From sleepwear to sportswear |
title_sort | from sleepwear to sportswear how beach pajamas reshaped women s fashion |
title_sub | how beach pajamas reshaped women's fashion |
topic | Damenhose (DE-588)4342727-3 gnd Schlafanzug (DE-588)4367350-8 gnd |
topic_facet | Damenhose Schlafanzug |
url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=034966614&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
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