Ancient Egyptian clothing: studies in late period private representations Volume 2
Gespeichert in:
| 1. Verfasser: | |
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| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
Leiden ; Boston
Brill
[2023]
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| Schriftenreihe: | Harvard egyptological studies
20,2 Harvard egyptological studies 20 |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Beschreibung: | XII Seiten, Seite 745-1219 Illustrationen |
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Contents VOLUME 1 Preface хш Acknowledgements XVII Abbreviations XXVIII How to Use This Book XXVI Notes on the Transliteration and Transcription of Egyptian Names and Words XXXIV i Introduction: Researching Late Period Egyptian Clothing i i.i Purpose of the Study i 1.2 Difficulties and Challenges: Preliminary Observations 3 1.3 Private Clothing / Non-royal Clothing 4 1.4 Chronological Framework 7 1.5 Corpus of Visual Sources and Their Limitations 10 1.5.1 Dating the Visual Sources / Artifacts 12 1.5.2 Topography of Visual Sources / Artifacts with Clothing Represented (Upper and Lower Egyptian Monuments) 14 1.5.3 Various Kinds of Visual Sources /Artifacts and Their Value in Studies of Egyptian Clothing 16 1.6 Methods and Methodology 28 1.6.1 Concept ofArt, Work ofArt, and Artifact 29 1.6.2 Methods in Material Culture Study 31 1.6.3 Art History Methods 32 1.6.4 Dress Theory—Garments as Artifact 34 1.6.5 Application ofMethods 39 2 Ancient Egyptian Garments 43 2.1 Two Groups of Egyptian Garments 43 2.2 Linen and Egyptian Garments 45 2.3 Represented vs. Excavated Garments 46 2.3.1 Unworn Garments—Textiles Approach 49 2.3.2 Clothed Body and Conventions in Egyptian Art—Visual Approach 55 2.4 Reading Ancient Egyptian Garments from Iconographie and Archaeological Sources 59 2.4.1 Colors ofEgyptian Clothing 59
VIII 2.5 2.6 CONTENTS 2.4.2 Transparency of Clothing 65 Nomenclature of Egyptian Clothing 67 Analysis of Rendered Garments 69 2.6.1 Archaism, Tradition, and Innovation in Rendering ofLate Period Garments 69 2.6.2 SelfPresentation, Decorum, and Social Context ofDress in Late Period Art 76 2.6.3 Foreign Fashion 82 3 Male Clothing 91 3.1 Kilts—Introduction 91 3.1.1 Termsfor a Kilt 91 3.1.2 Variations among Late Period Kilts 95 3.2 Hip-Cloth (Open Kilt) 99 3.2.1 Tail of a Kilt 99 3.2.2 Differentiating the Hip-Clothfrom the Kilt 102 3.2.3 Hip-Cloth in Late Period Art 109 3.2.4 Conclusion 117 3.3 Short and Long Kilts 119 3.3.1 Tying the Kilts 120 3.3.2 Draping the Kilts 122 3.3.3 Sets of Garments in which Short and Long Kilts Appear 126 3.3.4 Short and Long Kilts before the Late Period 132 3.3.5 Late Period Representations of the Short Kilt 139 3.3.6 Late Period Representations of a Long Kilt 159 3.3.7 Conclusion 178 3.4 High-Waisted Kilt 180 3.4.1 High-Waisted Kilt before the Late Period and the “Vizier Outfit” 182 3.4.2 Late Period Representations of the High-Waisted Kilt 186 3.4.3 So-Called Persian Costume and the Origin of the Late Period High-Waisted Kilt 215 3.4.4 Conclusion 222 3.5 Other Kilts 225 3.5.1 Sash-Kilt (Kilt Type 4) 225 3.5.2 Slanted-Kilt (Kilt Type 5) 234 3.6 Shendfyt (Kilt Type 6) 245 3.6.1 Shendjyt and Shendjyt-Like Kilts 245 3.6.2 From Royal to Private Context—the Shendjyt before the Late Period 248
IX CONTENTS 3-6-3 Shendjyt in the Late Period 251 3-6-4 Conclusion 258 Sashes 259 Type 7—Body-Sash 261 3-7-1 3-7-2 Type 2—Neck-Sash 278 3-7-3 Турез—Belt-Sash 289 3.8 Tunic and Single-Strap Undergarment 304 3.8.1 Typei—Tunics 306 3.8.2 Type 2: Single-Strap Undergarment 336 3.9 Pelt Vestment 343 3.9.1 Leopard, Cheetah., and Pelt Vestment 343 3.9.2 Symbolic Meaning of the Pelt 346 3.9.3 Pelt Vestment before the Late Period 350 3.9.4 Late Period Representations of the Pelt Vestment 3.9.5 Conclusion 398 3.10 Shawls and Cloaks 402 3.10.1 Shawls (Type 7) 404 3.10.2 Wraparound Cloak (Type 2) 422 3.10.3 Knotted Kushite Cloak (Type 3) 428 3.10.4 Meaning of Outer Garments 431 3.10.5 Conclusion 433 352 4 Female Clothing 436 4.1 Introduction 436 4.2 Women in Late Period Art 438 4.3 Dresses before the Late Period 440 4.4 Wraparound Dresses (Type 1) 444 4.4.1 Construction and Draping of Wraparound Dress 445 4.4.2 Sheath Dress 447 4.4.3 Shoulder straps 448 4.4.4 Shoulder straps in Two and Three dimensions 448 4.4.5 Type 1.A-1. C: Wraparound Dress with and without Strap(s) 450 4.5 Wraparound Dress Tied under Breast (Type 2) 460 4.5.1 Late Period Depiction of a Dress Type 2 461 4.5.2 Outfit ofMourners and Tradition ofLts Depiction 462 4.6 Bead-Net Dress (Type 3) 464 4.6.1 Bead-Net Dress before the Late Period 464 4.6.2 Late Period Bead-Net Dress 466 4.7 Tunics (Type 4) 470
X CONTENTS 4.8 Represented vs. Excavated Tunics 471 4-7-1 Manners of Wearing a Tunic 474 4-7-2 Set 1—Tunic Worn Alone 475 4-7-3 4-7-4 Set 2—Tunic with a Shawl 477 Sets—Tunic Worn over a Wraparound Dress (Type 1} 4-7-5 4-7-θ Set 4—Attire with a Tail-Like Tassel 481 Female Kushite Attire 483 4-7-7 Wearers of Tunic and Sets of Garments 485 4-7-8 Conclusion 486 5 Final Conclusions 480 490 6 Tables—Catalogue of Analyzed Objects 498 6.1 Hip-Cloth (Chapter 3.2): Tables 498 6.1.1 Tab. 3.2:1—Semicircular Hip-Cloth (Type 7) 498 6.1.2 Tab. 3.2:2—Rectangular Hip-Cloth (Type 2) 500 6.2 Short and Long Kilt (Chapter 3.3): Tables 502 6.2.1 Tab. 3.3:1—Short Kilt with Belt (Type i.A) 502 6.2.2 Tab. 3.3:2—Short Kilt with Projecting Roll (Type i.B) 509 6.2.3 Tab. 3.3:3—ShortKiltwith Belt-sash (Type i.C.i and tC.2) 512 6.2.4 Tab. 3.3:4—Short Kilt with Protruding Pointed Section (Type i-D) 515 Tab. 3.3:5—Long Kilt with Belt (Type 2.A) 518 Tab. 3.3:6—Long Kiltwith Projecting Roll (Type 2.B) 522 Tab. 3.3:7—Long Kilt with Belt-sash (Type 2.C) 535 Tab. 3.3:8—Long Kilt with Protruding Pointed Section (Type 2.D) 541 High-Waisted Kilt (Chapter 3.4): Tables 543 6.3.1 Tab. 3.4:1—High-Waisted Kilt with Projecting Rolled Knot (Type 6.2.5 6.2.6 6.2.7 6.2.8 6.3 6.3.2 6.3.3 6.3.4 6.3.5 6.3.6 3-A) 543 Tab. 3.4:2—High-WaistedKilt with Belt-sash (Type 3.B) 545 Tab. 3.4:3—High-Waisted Kilt with Cone Shape Roll and Bully Overhang (Elaborate Fastening} Types.C.i 546 Tab. 3.4:4—High-WaistedKilt with Cone Shape Roll and Square Overhang (Type3.C.2) 547 Tab. 3.4:5—High-Waisted Kilt with Cone Shape Roll and Long
Overhang (Type3.C.3) 548 Tab. 3.4:6—High-Waisted Kilt with Small Roll and Overhang (Small Fastening) (Type 3. C.4 ) 548
CONTENTS XI Tab. 3.4:7—High-Waisted Kilt with Cone Shape Roll and Overhang Derivingfrom Roll (Type 3.C.3) 549 6.3.8 Tab. 3.4:8—High-Waisted Kilt with Rectangular Roll and Long, Thin Overhang (Type3.C.6) 551 6.3.9 Tab. 3.4:9—High-Waisted Kilt with Roll Only (Incomplete Fastening) (Type 3.C.7) 551 6.4 Other Kilts (Chapter 3.5): Tables 552 6.4.1 Tab. 3.3:1—Sash-Kilt (Type 4) 552 6.4.2 Tab. 3.3:2—Theban Slanted Kilt (Type 3.A) 557 6.4.3 Tab. 3.3:3—Fringed Slanted-kilt (Kushite Kilt) (Type 3.B) 559 6.5 Shendjyt (Chapter 3.6): Tables 559 6.5.1 Tab. 3.6:1—Shendjyt (Type 6) 559 6.6 Sashes (Chapter 3.7): Tables 565 6.6.1 Tab. 3.7:1—Body-Sash (Type 1) 565 6.6.2 Tab. 3.7:2—Neck-Sash (Type 2) 573 6.6.3 Tab. 3.7:3—Belt-Sash with One End Visible on the Middle of the Kilt (Type3.A) 577 6.6.4 Tab. 3.7:4—Belt-Sash with Two Ends (Type 3.B) 580 6.6.5 Tab. 3.7:3—Belt-Sash with One End Visible on the Edge of the Kilt (Apron-Sash) (Type3.C) 581 6.7 Tunics and Single-strap Undergarment (Chapter 3.8): Tables 583 6.7.1 Tab. 3.8:1—V-neck Tunic with Elbow-Length Sleeves (Type 1 .A) 583 6.7.2 Tab. 3.8:2—V-neck Tunic with Long Sleeves (Type 1.B) 585 6.7.3 Tab. 3.8:3—Round-neck Tunic with Elbow-Length Sleeves (Type 1 .C) 585 6.7.4 Tab. 3.8:4—Round-neck Tunic with Long Sleeves (Type 1 .D) 587 6.7.5 Tab. 3.8:3—Singe Strap Undergarment (Type 2) 588 6.8 Pelt Vestment (Chapter 3.9): Tables 590 6.8.1 Tab. 3.9:1—Pelt Vestment Slung aver the Shoulder (Type ή 590 6.8.2 Tab. 3.9:2-—Pelt Vestment with Shoulder Knot (Type 2) 592 6.8.3 Tab. 3.9:3—Pelt Vestment without Shoulder Knot (Type 3) 600 6.8.4 Tab. 3.9:4—Pelt
Vestment Covering Two Shoulders (Type 4) 602 6.9 Cloaks and Shawls (Chapter 3.10): Tables 603 6.9.1 Tab. 3.10:1—Lower Egyptian Shawl (Type i.A) 603 6.9.2 Tab. 3.10:2—Upper Egyptian Shawl (Type i.B) 606 6.3.7
CONTENTS XII 6.10 6.11 6.12 6.13 6.9.3 Tab. 3.10:3—Wraparound Cloak (Type 2) 608 6.9.4 Tab. 3.10:4—Knotted Cloak (Type 3) 609 Wraparound Dresses (Types 1) (Chapter 4-4) : Tables 610 6.1 o. 1 Tab. 4.4:1—Wraparound Dress with One Strap (Type i.A) 6.10.2 Tab. 4.4:2—Wraparound Dress with Two Straps (Type i.B) 6.10.3 Tab. 4.4:3—Wraparound Dress without Straps (Type i.C) Wraparound Dress (Type 2) (Chapter 4-5): Tables 621 6.11.1 Tab. 4:5—Wraparound Dress Tied under Breast (Type 2 ) Bead-net Dress (Type 3) (Chapter 4-6): Tables 623 6.12.1 Tab. 4:6—Bead-Net Dress (Type 3) 623 Tunic (Type 4) (Chapter 4-7): Tables 624 6.13.1 Tab. 4:7—Tunic (Type 4) and Complex Outfits (Sets 1-4) Appendix 1: Typology of Late Period Clothing 637 Appendix 2: Chronology 640 Bibliography 644 General Index 700 Chronological Index 709 Index of Ancient Personal Names 712 Index of Late Period Egyptian Names (according to Egyptian alphabet) 719 Index of Titles and Epithets 724 Index of Museum and Archive Numbers 726 VOLUME 2 Plates Chapter 2 743 Plates Chapter 3 759 Plates Chapter 4 1093 List of Copyright Holders 1192 610 613 620 621 624 |
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