Dress and dress code in medieval Cairo: a Mamluk obsession
"In this book, Doris Behrens-Abouseif responds to the Mamluk chroniclers whose loquacity regarding clothing matters demands our attention. Using a multiplicity of sources including chronicles, European and Muslim travel narratives, popular storytelling, legal treatises, literature, and poetry,...
Gespeichert in:
| 1. Verfasser: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
Leiden ; Boston
Brill
[2024]
|
| Schriftenreihe: | Handbook of oriental studies. Section 1: The Near and Middle East
volume 176 |
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Zusammenfassung: | "In this book, Doris Behrens-Abouseif responds to the Mamluk chroniclers whose loquacity regarding clothing matters demands our attention. Using a multiplicity of sources including chronicles, European and Muslim travel narratives, popular storytelling, legal treatises, literature, and poetry, Behrens-Abouseif delves into the details of Mamluk dress. Whether as a vehicle for the sultanate's self-representation both internationally and domestically or as an expression of religious and social identities, status and wealth, female assertion, urban culture, and artistic creativity, clothing personified the broad Mamluk social spectrum. Replete with colorful anecdotes and copious illustrations, Dress and Dress Code in Medieval Cairo offers a lively and comprehensive study of this fascinating topic"-- |
| Beschreibung: | XV, 240 Seiten Illustrationen |
| ISBN: | 9789004684973 |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
| _version_ | 1815423602812518400 |
|---|---|
| adam_text |
DRESS AND DRESS CODE
IN
MEDIEVAL CAIRO
A MAMLUK OBSESSION
BY
DORIS BEHRENS-ABOUSEIF
BRILL
LEIDEN
I
BOSTON
CONTENTS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
XI
LIST
OF
FIGURES
XII
NOTE
TO
THE READER
XVI
1
INTRODUCTION: SUBJECT, SOURCES,
AND
TERMINOLOGY
1
1 STUDIES 3
2 MATERIAL EVIDENCE 5
3 ARCHIVAL SOURCES 5
4 NARRATIVE SOURCES 6
5 VISUAL SOURCES 6
6 TERMINOLOGY 7
2
RELIGION, TRADITIONS,
AND
CUSTOMS
9
1
RELIGION
9
2 SUFISM
14
3
DREAMS
15
4
URBAN CUSTOMS
17
5
MANNERS
AND
RITUALS
19
3
THE SULTANATE
AND
ITS
HISTORIANS
22
1
THE SULTANS' PERSPECTIVE
22
2 THE HISTORIANS' PERSPECTIVE
26
4
THE DESIGNER SULTANS
(1250-138OS) 30
1 AL-ZIIHIR BAYBARS (R.1260-77) 30
2 AL-MANIIR QALIIWIIN
(R.
1278-90)
32
3 AL-ASHRAF KHALIL (1290-3)
33
4 AL-NAIR MILL.LAMMAD (1293-4, 1299-1309, 1310-41) 34
5 AL-ASHRAF SHA'BIIN
(R.
1363-77)
35
6
AL-$IILI):I
HAJJI (
R.
1389-90)
37
5 THE CIRCASSIAN REVISION (138OS-1517)
AND
THE
OTTOMAN
TERMINATION
OF
THE
MAMLUK DRESS CODE
38
1 AL-ZIIHIR BARQUQ
(R.
1382.:._9,
1390-99)
39
2
AL-NIIIR
FARAJ
(R.
1399-1405)
43
3 AL-ASHRAF BARSBIIY
(R.
1422-38) 44
VIII
CONTENTS
4
AL-ZAHIR JAQMAQ
(R.
1438-53)
46
5
AL-ZAHIR KHUSHQADAM (
R.
1461-7) 47
6
AL-ASHRAF QAYTBAY
(R.
1468-96)
47
7
AL-ASHRAF
QIINUH
AL-GHAWRI
(R.
1501-16)
49
8 THE END
OF
THE MAMLUK DRESS CODE
50
6 THE
KHIL'A:
INSTITUTION AND RITUAL
52
7
THE
KHIL'A
AS A GARMENT
65
1
THE CALIPH AND THE SULTAN
65
2
THE MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT IN THE BAHRI PERIOD
66
2.1
NUWAYRI'S
LI.ST
71
2.2
AL-DAWII.DII.RI'S LI.ST
71
3 THE MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT IN THE CIRCASSIAN PERIOD
72
3.1
THE
DOUBLE-FACED OVER-CLOAK
AND THE
ATLASAYN
73
3.2
GOLD
AND TIRAZ
74
3.3
THE
SALIIRI
75
4 THE CIVILIAN DIGNITARIES
77
5 THE
KII.MILIYYA:
A CIRCASSIAN INNOVATION
79
8 THE DAR AL-TIRAZ AND MAMLUKART
85
1
PRODUCTION
85
2
ADMINISTRATION
87
3 TIRIIZ AND MAMLUK ART
92
9
DRESS AND DRESS CODE
OF
THE MAMLUK ARISTOCRACY
102
1
THE SULTAN
(FIG.
16) 102
2
THE MAMLIIKS
106
3 THE HEADDRESS
109
3.1
KALAWTA AND TAKHJIFA
109
3.2
TAQIYYA
AND ZAMT
122
10
THE DRESS CODE
OF
THE
CIVILIAN ELITE
AND
THE
COMMONERS
132
1
THE CIVILIAN ELITE
132
2
THE
SUFIS
135
3
THE COMMONERS
136
3.1
THE
MALUTA AND OTHER GARMENTS
143
CONTENTS
11
WOMEN'S CLOTHING
149
1
THE PALACE
149
2
THE STREET
155
8
WARDROBE MISCELLENIA
158
4
FASHIONS
161
5
REGULATION
AND
TRANSGRESSION
167
6 EUROPEAN EYEWITNESSES
169
1:T
MAMLUK DRESS
BETWEEN
TEXT AND IMAGE
172
-13
14
ARTEFACTS
172
1.1
MAMLUK MANUSCRIPTS
178
1.2
RENAISSANCE IMAGES
(FIGS.
19,
20,
21,
22,
23,
25,
26,
47,
48, 49)
181
SOCIAL
ORDER AND MOBILITY
184
INDUSTRY, TRADE,
AND
ASSETS
194
THE MARKETS
OF
CAIRO
197
2
HOARDS, ASSETS,
AND
SECURITY
202
15
EPILOGUE
207
BIBLIOGRAPHY
211
INDEX
223
IX |
| adam_txt |
DRESS AND DRESS CODE
IN
MEDIEVAL CAIRO
A MAMLUK OBSESSION
BY
DORIS BEHRENS-ABOUSEIF
BRILL
LEIDEN
I
BOSTON
CONTENTS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
XI
LIST
OF
FIGURES
XII
NOTE
TO
THE READER
XVI
1
INTRODUCTION: SUBJECT, SOURCES,
AND
TERMINOLOGY
1
1 STUDIES 3
2 MATERIAL EVIDENCE 5
3 ARCHIVAL SOURCES 5
4 NARRATIVE SOURCES 6
5 VISUAL SOURCES 6
6 TERMINOLOGY 7
2
RELIGION, TRADITIONS,
AND
CUSTOMS
9
1
RELIGION
9
2 SUFISM
14
3
DREAMS
15
4
URBAN CUSTOMS
17
5
MANNERS
AND
RITUALS
19
3
THE SULTANATE
AND
ITS
HISTORIANS
22
1
THE SULTANS' PERSPECTIVE
22
2 THE HISTORIANS' PERSPECTIVE
26
4
THE DESIGNER SULTANS
(1250-138OS) 30
1 AL-ZIIHIR BAYBARS (R.1260-77) 30
2 AL-MANIIR QALIIWIIN
(R.
1278-90)
32
3 AL-ASHRAF KHALIL (1290-3)
33
4 AL-NAIR MILL.LAMMAD (1293-4, 1299-1309, 1310-41) 34
5 AL-ASHRAF SHA'BIIN
(R.
1363-77)
35
6
AL-$IILI):I
HAJJI (
R.
1389-90)
37
5 THE CIRCASSIAN REVISION (138OS-1517)
AND
THE
OTTOMAN
TERMINATION
OF
THE
MAMLUK DRESS CODE
38
1 AL-ZIIHIR BARQUQ
(R.
1382.:._9,
1390-99)
39
2
AL-NIIIR
FARAJ
(R.
1399-1405)
43
3 AL-ASHRAF BARSBIIY
(R.
1422-38) 44
VIII
CONTENTS
4
AL-ZAHIR JAQMAQ
(R.
1438-53)
46
5
AL-ZAHIR KHUSHQADAM (
R.
1461-7) 47
6
AL-ASHRAF QAYTBAY
(R.
1468-96)
47
7
AL-ASHRAF
QIINUH
AL-GHAWRI
(R.
1501-16)
49
8 THE END
OF
THE MAMLUK DRESS CODE
50
6 THE
KHIL'A:
INSTITUTION AND RITUAL
52
7
THE
KHIL'A
AS A GARMENT
65
1
THE CALIPH AND THE SULTAN
65
2
THE MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT IN THE BAHRI PERIOD
66
2.1
NUWAYRI'S
LI.ST
71
2.2
AL-DAWII.DII.RI'S LI.ST
71
3 THE MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT IN THE CIRCASSIAN PERIOD
72
3.1
THE
DOUBLE-FACED OVER-CLOAK
AND THE
ATLASAYN
73
3.2
GOLD
AND TIRAZ
74
3.3
THE
SALIIRI
75
4 THE CIVILIAN DIGNITARIES
77
5 THE
KII.MILIYYA:
A CIRCASSIAN INNOVATION
79
8 THE DAR AL-TIRAZ AND MAMLUKART
85
1
PRODUCTION
85
2
ADMINISTRATION
87
3 TIRIIZ AND MAMLUK ART
92
9
DRESS AND DRESS CODE
OF
THE MAMLUK ARISTOCRACY
102
1
THE SULTAN
(FIG.
16) 102
2
THE MAMLIIKS
106
3 THE HEADDRESS
109
3.1
KALAWTA AND TAKHJIFA
109
3.2
TAQIYYA
AND ZAMT
122
10
THE DRESS CODE
OF
THE
CIVILIAN ELITE
AND
THE
COMMONERS
132
1
THE CIVILIAN ELITE
132
2
THE
SUFIS
135
3
THE COMMONERS
136
3.1
THE
MALUTA AND OTHER GARMENTS
143
CONTENTS
11
WOMEN'S CLOTHING
149
1
THE PALACE
149
2
THE STREET
155
8
WARDROBE MISCELLENIA
158
4
FASHIONS
161
5
REGULATION
AND
TRANSGRESSION
167
6 EUROPEAN EYEWITNESSES
169
1:T
MAMLUK DRESS
BETWEEN
TEXT AND IMAGE
172
-13
14
ARTEFACTS
172
1.1
MAMLUK MANUSCRIPTS
178
1.2
RENAISSANCE IMAGES
(FIGS.
19,
20,
21,
22,
23,
25,
26,
47,
48, 49)
181
SOCIAL
ORDER AND MOBILITY
184
INDUSTRY, TRADE,
AND
ASSETS
194
THE MARKETS
OF
CAIRO
197
2
HOARDS, ASSETS,
AND
SECURITY
202
15
EPILOGUE
207
BIBLIOGRAPHY
211
INDEX
223
IX |
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| any_adam_object_boolean | 1 |
| author | Behrens-Abouseif, Doris 1946- |
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| author_role | aut |
| author_sort | Behrens-Abouseif, Doris 1946- |
| author_variant | d b a dba |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV049407034 |
| classification_rvk | NM 3200 EL 7950 |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)1418696497 (DE-599)BVBBV049407034 |
| discipline | Geschichte Außereuropäische Sprachen und Literaturen Literaturwissenschaft |
| era | Geschichte 1250-1530 gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 1250-1530 |
| format | Book |
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| geographic | Ägypten (DE-588)4000556-2 gnd Kairo (DE-588)4029236-8 gnd |
| geographic_facet | Ägypten Kairo |
| id | DE-604.BV049407034 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| index_date | 2024-07-03T23:05:18Z |
| indexdate | 2024-11-11T11:01:03Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9789004684973 |
| language | English |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-034734146 |
| oclc_num | 1418696497 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | DE-Y3 DE-703 DE-188 |
| owner_facet | DE-Y3 DE-703 DE-188 |
| physical | XV, 240 Seiten Illustrationen |
| publishDate | 2024 |
| publishDateSearch | 2024 |
| publishDateSort | 2024 |
| publisher | Brill |
| record_format | marc |
| series | Handbook of oriental studies. Section 1: The Near and Middle East |
| series2 | Handbook of oriental studies. Section 1: The Near and Middle East |
| spelling | Behrens-Abouseif, Doris 1946- Verfasser (DE-588)120099292 aut Dress and dress code in medieval Cairo a Mamluk obsession by Doris Behrens-Abouseif Leiden ; Boston Brill [2024] © 2024 XV, 240 Seiten Illustrationen txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Handbook of oriental studies. Section 1: The Near and Middle East volume 176 "In this book, Doris Behrens-Abouseif responds to the Mamluk chroniclers whose loquacity regarding clothing matters demands our attention. Using a multiplicity of sources including chronicles, European and Muslim travel narratives, popular storytelling, legal treatises, literature, and poetry, Behrens-Abouseif delves into the details of Mamluk dress. Whether as a vehicle for the sultanate's self-representation both internationally and domestically or as an expression of religious and social identities, status and wealth, female assertion, urban culture, and artistic creativity, clothing personified the broad Mamluk social spectrum. Replete with colorful anecdotes and copious illustrations, Dress and Dress Code in Medieval Cairo offers a lively and comprehensive study of this fascinating topic"-- Mamelucken (DE-588)118730517 gnd rswk-swf Geschichte 1250-1530 gnd rswk-swf Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd rswk-swf Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd rswk-swf Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 gnd rswk-swf Ägypten (DE-588)4000556-2 gnd rswk-swf Kairo (DE-588)4029236-8 gnd rswk-swf Clothing and dress / Egypt / History Mamelukes / Egypt / History Mamelukes / Social life and customs Egypt / History / 1250-1517 Mamelucken (DE-588)118730517 p Kairo (DE-588)4029236-8 g Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 s Geschichte 1250-1530 z DE-604 Ägypten (DE-588)4000556-2 g Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 s Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 s Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe Behrens-Abouseif, Doris Dress and dress code in medieval Cairo Leiden ; Boston : Brill, [2024] 978-90-04-68498-0 (DE-604)BV049332033 Handbook of oriental studies. Section 1: The Near and Middle East volume 176 (DE-604)BV000159443 176 V:DE-604 application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=034734146&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Behrens-Abouseif, Doris 1946- Dress and dress code in medieval Cairo a Mamluk obsession Handbook of oriental studies. Section 1: The Near and Middle East Mamelucken (DE-588)118730517 gnd Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)118730517 (DE-588)4031011-5 (DE-588)4039792-0 (DE-588)4059615-1 (DE-588)4000556-2 (DE-588)4029236-8 |
| title | Dress and dress code in medieval Cairo a Mamluk obsession |
| title_auth | Dress and dress code in medieval Cairo a Mamluk obsession |
| title_exact_search | Dress and dress code in medieval Cairo a Mamluk obsession |
| title_exact_search_txtP | Dress and dress code in medieval Cairo a Mamluk obsession |
| title_full | Dress and dress code in medieval Cairo a Mamluk obsession by Doris Behrens-Abouseif |
| title_fullStr | Dress and dress code in medieval Cairo a Mamluk obsession by Doris Behrens-Abouseif |
| title_full_unstemmed | Dress and dress code in medieval Cairo a Mamluk obsession by Doris Behrens-Abouseif |
| title_short | Dress and dress code in medieval Cairo |
| title_sort | dress and dress code in medieval cairo a mamluk obsession |
| title_sub | a Mamluk obsession |
| topic | Mamelucken (DE-588)118730517 gnd Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 gnd |
| topic_facet | Mamelucken Kleidung Mode Textilien Ägypten Kairo |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=034734146&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| volume_link | (DE-604)BV000159443 |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT behrensabouseifdoris dressanddresscodeinmedievalcairoamamlukobsession |