Behind the Seams: Women, Fashion, and Work in 19th-Century France
In this highly original book, Susan E. Hiner looks behind fashion's seams and focuses on the women fashion producers - both working- and middle-class - who were key to shaping the French fashion economy. <i>Behind the Seams</i> thus opens up the fields of both fashion and French cul...
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Format: | Elektronisch E-Book |
Sprache: | English |
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Online-Zugang: | DE-523 URL des Erstveröffentlichers |
Zusammenfassung: | In this highly original book, Susan E. Hiner looks behind fashion's seams and focuses on the women fashion producers - both working- and middle-class - who were key to shaping the French fashion economy. <i>Behind the Seams</i> thus opens up the fields of both fashion and French cultural studies and explores new ways of understanding the 19th century by demonstrating that these women's complex and contradictory roles as producers of luxury items left them exploited by an oppressive fashion system even as they served as influencers within it. In 19th-century France, fashion was a powerful and lucrative network that depended on women's expert manipulation of its raw materials. The delicate finger work of seamstresses and modistes yielded frothy dresses and ethereal hats; the subtle, persuasive rhetoric of written chronicles resulted in savvy, targeted marketing campaigns of goods and lifestyles; and the stylized visual splendour of the detailed drawing, engraving, and painting of fashion plates fed an aspirational fantasy that ended in consumption. Yet this fashion system paradoxically effaced many of the women on whom it depended. Rather than repeating the familiar narrative of women as victims of fashion, <i>Behind the Seams </i>tells a more complicated story. Hiner's close examination reveals the productive women workers, writers, and artists who achieved agency, influence, and active careers even as their work and lives were masked by the ways in which they were mythologized in popular culture, rendered anonymous, and marginalized by institutional exclusion. Beautifully illustrated in colour throughout, <i>Behind the Seams </i>is a rich resource and essential reading for all those interested in fashion history, 19th-century French history and visual culture, and the social history of women |
Beschreibung: | 1 Online-Ressource (viii, 269 Seiten) |
ISBN: | 9781350339835 |
DOI: | 10.5040/9781350339835 |
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520 | 3 | |a In this highly original book, Susan E. Hiner looks behind fashion's seams and focuses on the women fashion producers - both working- and middle-class - who were key to shaping the French fashion economy. <i>Behind the Seams</i> thus opens up the fields of both fashion and French cultural studies and explores new ways of understanding the 19th century by demonstrating that these women's complex and contradictory roles as producers of luxury items left them exploited by an oppressive fashion system even as they served as influencers within it. In 19th-century France, fashion was a powerful and lucrative network that depended on women's expert manipulation of its raw materials. The delicate finger work of seamstresses and modistes yielded frothy dresses and ethereal hats; the subtle, persuasive rhetoric of written chronicles resulted in savvy, targeted marketing campaigns of goods and lifestyles; and the stylized visual splendour of the detailed drawing, engraving, and painting of fashion plates fed an aspirational fantasy that ended in consumption. Yet this fashion system paradoxically effaced many of the women on whom it depended. Rather than repeating the familiar narrative of women as victims of fashion, <i>Behind the Seams </i>tells a more complicated story. Hiner's close examination reveals the productive women workers, writers, and artists who achieved agency, influence, and active careers even as their work and lives were masked by the ways in which they were mythologized in popular culture, rendered anonymous, and marginalized by institutional exclusion. Beautifully illustrated in colour throughout, <i>Behind the Seams </i>is a rich resource and essential reading for all those interested in fashion history, 19th-century French history and visual culture, and the social history of women | |
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spelling | Hiner, Susan Verfasser aut Behind the Seams Women, Fashion, and Work in 19th-Century France Susan Hiner London Bloomsbury Visual Arts 2023 1 Online-Ressource (viii, 269 Seiten) txt rdacontent c rdamedia cr rdacarrier In this highly original book, Susan E. Hiner looks behind fashion's seams and focuses on the women fashion producers - both working- and middle-class - who were key to shaping the French fashion economy. <i>Behind the Seams</i> thus opens up the fields of both fashion and French cultural studies and explores new ways of understanding the 19th century by demonstrating that these women's complex and contradictory roles as producers of luxury items left them exploited by an oppressive fashion system even as they served as influencers within it. In 19th-century France, fashion was a powerful and lucrative network that depended on women's expert manipulation of its raw materials. The delicate finger work of seamstresses and modistes yielded frothy dresses and ethereal hats; the subtle, persuasive rhetoric of written chronicles resulted in savvy, targeted marketing campaigns of goods and lifestyles; and the stylized visual splendour of the detailed drawing, engraving, and painting of fashion plates fed an aspirational fantasy that ended in consumption. Yet this fashion system paradoxically effaced many of the women on whom it depended. Rather than repeating the familiar narrative of women as victims of fashion, <i>Behind the Seams </i>tells a more complicated story. Hiner's close examination reveals the productive women workers, writers, and artists who achieved agency, influence, and active careers even as their work and lives were masked by the ways in which they were mythologized in popular culture, rendered anonymous, and marginalized by institutional exclusion. Beautifully illustrated in colour throughout, <i>Behind the Seams </i>is a rich resource and essential reading for all those interested in fashion history, 19th-century French history and visual culture, and the social history of women Geschichte 1800-1900 gnd rswk-swf Frauenkleidung (DE-588)4138128-2 gnd rswk-swf Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd rswk-swf Textilhandel (DE-588)4184955-3 gnd rswk-swf Frankreich (DE-588)4018145-5 gnd rswk-swf Fashion Fashion & society History of fashion Material culture Frankreich (DE-588)4018145-5 g Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 s Frauenkleidung (DE-588)4138128-2 s Textilhandel (DE-588)4184955-3 s Geschichte 1800-1900 z DE-604 Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe, PDF 978-1-3503-3981-1 Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe, EPUB 978-1-3503-3982-8 Erscheint auch als Druck-Ausgabe, Hardcover 978-1-3503-3980-4 Erscheint auch als Druck-Ausgabe, Paperback 978-1-3503-3979-8 https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350339835?locatt=label:secondary_bloomsburyCollections URL des Erstveröffentlichers |
spellingShingle | Hiner, Susan Behind the Seams Women, Fashion, and Work in 19th-Century France Frauenkleidung (DE-588)4138128-2 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Textilhandel (DE-588)4184955-3 gnd |
subject_GND | (DE-588)4138128-2 (DE-588)4039792-0 (DE-588)4184955-3 (DE-588)4018145-5 |
title | Behind the Seams Women, Fashion, and Work in 19th-Century France |
title_auth | Behind the Seams Women, Fashion, and Work in 19th-Century France |
title_exact_search | Behind the Seams Women, Fashion, and Work in 19th-Century France |
title_exact_search_txtP | Behind the Seams Women, Fashion, and Work in 19th-Century France |
title_full | Behind the Seams Women, Fashion, and Work in 19th-Century France Susan Hiner |
title_fullStr | Behind the Seams Women, Fashion, and Work in 19th-Century France Susan Hiner |
title_full_unstemmed | Behind the Seams Women, Fashion, and Work in 19th-Century France Susan Hiner |
title_short | Behind the Seams |
title_sort | behind the seams women fashion and work in 19th century france |
title_sub | Women, Fashion, and Work in 19th-Century France |
topic | Frauenkleidung (DE-588)4138128-2 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Textilhandel (DE-588)4184955-3 gnd |
topic_facet | Frauenkleidung Mode Textilhandel Frankreich |
url | https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350339835?locatt=label:secondary_bloomsburyCollections |
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