Moda stanu wojennego: = Fashion under martial law
Gespeichert in:
| Hauptverfasser: | , |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | Polish |
| Veröffentlicht: |
Wrocław
Muzeum Narodowe we Wrocławiu
2023
|
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis Abstract |
| Beschreibung: | Przyjęta nazwa autorki: Maria Anna Duffek. Publikacja towarzysząca wystawie prezentowanej w Muzeum Narodowym we Wrocławiu w dniach 18 kwietnia-30 lipca 2023 r. |
| Beschreibung: | 71 Seiten Porträts 21x21 cm |
| ISBN: | 9788366788275 836678827X |
Internformat
MARC
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| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Moda stanu wojennego |b = Fashion under martial law |c Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka, Maria Duffek-Bartoszewska |
| 246 | 1 | 1 | |a Fashion under martial law |
| 264 | 1 | |a Wrocław |b Muzeum Narodowe we Wrocławiu |c 2023 | |
| 300 | |a 71 Seiten |b Porträts |c 21x21 cm | ||
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| 337 | |b n |2 rdamedia | ||
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| 500 | |a Przyjęta nazwa autorki: Maria Anna Duffek. Publikacja towarzysząca wystawie prezentowanej w Muzeum Narodowym we Wrocławiu w dniach 18 kwietnia-30 lipca 2023 r. | ||
| 546 | |a Englische Zusammenfassung | ||
| 648 | 7 | |a Geschichte 1980-1990 |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf | |
| 648 | 7 | |a Geschichte 1981-1983 |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf | |
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| 700 | 1 | |a Duffek-Bartoszewska, Maria |e Verfasser |4 aut | |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
| _version_ | 1807954320843341824 |
|---|---|
| adam_text |
Spis treści 8 PRZEDMOWA Piotr Oszczanowski 10 Stan wojenny w PRL Maria Daffek-Bartoszewska 18 Moda Stanu wojennego Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka 19 Stan wojenny- stan rzeczy - stan umysłu 23 Moda w galeriach sztuki i butikach 26 Historia i historie 33 Suknia ślubna nie tylko biała 40 Polka uzbrojona w druty 46 Metamorfozy materii 52 Inspiracje 60 Sfera wolności, medium ekspresji 65 Tkaczyk tka Z Zofią Tkaczyk rozmawia Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka 70 Summary. Fashion under Martial Law
SUMMARY. FASMION UNDER MARTIAL LAW In Poland, the 1980s opened with wide-spread strike action and anti-author itarian protests that resulted in the establishment of Independent Self-Gov erning Trade Union “Solidarity” in Summer 1980 and the subsequent imposi tion of martial law by the communist authorities on 13 December 1981 to crush the movement. The decade closed with the system’s fall and the beginning of the ensuing political and economic transformation. Although martial law was formally suspended in 1982 and lifted on 22 July 1983, the political rift and con flict continued as did the deep economic crisis which, inter alia, profoundly affected the textile and garment industry and market causing dire shortages. The individuals who did not want to succumb to the circumstances and relin quish fashionable, attractive appearance were compelled to navigate between desire and reality by engaging in various practices, like designing and mak ing their own clothes, recycling and procuring materials in unconventional, inventive and sometimes illegal ways. Such activities were usually - albeit not exclusively - the domain of women who supplied not only themselves but also their family and friends. 70 Stes ri a thek The exhibition’s principal focus is on such self-created garments. Their mak ers and wearers belong to the generation whose coming of age was marked by
the events of the early 1980s. Many of them took part in students’ protests and were involved with Solidarity and/or the Independent Students’ Asso ciation founded in September 1980. In the 1980s, they studied, graduated, started their families and professional careers. The majority of featured garments are one-off, hand-made, often emphatically “artistic”. They re sulted from and expressed their makers’ active ap proach to reality and reflected their personal inter pretations of fashion trends - or desire to transcend fashion. At every stage of production, the garments acquired meanings. Their makers related on imagi nation, inventiveness and resourcefulness to over come shortages. They contested the drabness of the surrounding reality with color, humor, and fantasy, social alienation with cooperation, the system’s de cline - with their youth, energy, initiative and de sire for a better life. Colorful motifs, lively textures, bold painted deco rations and three-dimensional appliques infused the creations with energy and originality. The gar ments often exude a certain theatricality, hinting at escapism and at the same time relying on an aesthetic gesture to elevate a humble material. The act of expressive metamorphosis suspended the hi erarchy of prestige, status and appropriateness tra ditionally guiding one’s selection of textiles. The use of patchwork and artisanal decorative techniques (intarsia knitting, appliqué, patchwork, embroidery, hand-painting, reserve-dyeing, ba tik) combined with the popularity of loose kimono cut carried complex cultural
references not only to current fashion and popular culture but also to non-European cultures and the Western tradition of reformed dress. At the same time, the garments coresponded to the developments in art to wear (wearable art) that in the 1980s became an elitist trend within mainstream Western fashion. In the depressed and hopeless atmosphere under martial law, making and wearing self-made clothes defied the system’s drab reality and lack of perspec tives, let one have agency at least in some fragment of reality which overall was not conducive to feel ing in control. Immersing oneself in handiwork was therapeutic, a way of releasing the inner tension of confronting the ongoing historical drama and its everyday challenges. These garments belong to a specific moment in his tory but in their materiality, focused on resource fulness, recycling and repurposing and laden with multifarious meanings, and in their individuali stic, personal, eclectic aesthetic they also seem sur prisingly modern. translated Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka Π |
| adam_txt |
Spis treści 8 PRZEDMOWA Piotr Oszczanowski 10 Stan wojenny w PRL Maria Daffek-Bartoszewska 18 Moda Stanu wojennego Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka 19 Stan wojenny- stan rzeczy - stan umysłu 23 Moda w galeriach sztuki i butikach 26 Historia i historie 33 Suknia ślubna nie tylko biała 40 Polka uzbrojona w druty 46 Metamorfozy materii 52 Inspiracje 60 Sfera wolności, medium ekspresji 65 Tkaczyk tka Z Zofią Tkaczyk rozmawia Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka 70 Summary. Fashion under Martial Law
SUMMARY. FASMION UNDER MARTIAL LAW In Poland, the 1980s opened with wide-spread strike action and anti-author itarian protests that resulted in the establishment of Independent Self-Gov erning Trade Union “Solidarity” in Summer 1980 and the subsequent imposi tion of martial law by the communist authorities on 13 December 1981 to crush the movement. The decade closed with the system’s fall and the beginning of the ensuing political and economic transformation. Although martial law was formally suspended in 1982 and lifted on 22 July 1983, the political rift and con flict continued as did the deep economic crisis which, inter alia, profoundly affected the textile and garment industry and market causing dire shortages. The individuals who did not want to succumb to the circumstances and relin quish fashionable, attractive appearance were compelled to navigate between desire and reality by engaging in various practices, like designing and mak ing their own clothes, recycling and procuring materials in unconventional, inventive and sometimes illegal ways. Such activities were usually - albeit not exclusively - the domain of women who supplied not only themselves but also their family and friends. 70 Stes ri a thek The exhibition’s principal focus is on such self-created garments. Their mak ers and wearers belong to the generation whose coming of age was marked by
the events of the early 1980s. Many of them took part in students’ protests and were involved with Solidarity and/or the Independent Students’ Asso ciation founded in September 1980. In the 1980s, they studied, graduated, started their families and professional careers. The majority of featured garments are one-off, hand-made, often emphatically “artistic”. They re sulted from and expressed their makers’ active ap proach to reality and reflected their personal inter pretations of fashion trends - or desire to transcend fashion. At every stage of production, the garments acquired meanings. Their makers related on imagi nation, inventiveness and resourcefulness to over come shortages. They contested the drabness of the surrounding reality with color, humor, and fantasy, social alienation with cooperation, the system’s de cline - with their youth, energy, initiative and de sire for a better life. Colorful motifs, lively textures, bold painted deco rations and three-dimensional appliques infused the creations with energy and originality. The gar ments often exude a certain theatricality, hinting at escapism and at the same time relying on an aesthetic gesture to elevate a humble material. The act of expressive metamorphosis suspended the hi erarchy of prestige, status and appropriateness tra ditionally guiding one’s selection of textiles. The use of patchwork and artisanal decorative techniques (intarsia knitting, appliqué, patchwork, embroidery, hand-painting, reserve-dyeing, ba tik) combined with the popularity of loose kimono cut carried complex cultural
references not only to current fashion and popular culture but also to non-European cultures and the Western tradition of reformed dress. At the same time, the garments coresponded to the developments in art to wear (wearable art) that in the 1980s became an elitist trend within mainstream Western fashion. In the depressed and hopeless atmosphere under martial law, making and wearing self-made clothes defied the system’s drab reality and lack of perspec tives, let one have agency at least in some fragment of reality which overall was not conducive to feel ing in control. Immersing oneself in handiwork was therapeutic, a way of releasing the inner tension of confronting the ongoing historical drama and its everyday challenges. These garments belong to a specific moment in his tory but in their materiality, focused on resource fulness, recycling and repurposing and laden with multifarious meanings, and in their individuali stic, personal, eclectic aesthetic they also seem sur prisingly modern. translated Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka Π |
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| any_adam_object_boolean | 1 |
| author | Możdżyńska-Nawotka, Małgorzata Duffek-Bartoszewska, Maria |
| author_GND | (DE-588)1159223580 |
| author_facet | Możdżyńska-Nawotka, Małgorzata Duffek-Bartoszewska, Maria |
| author_role | aut aut |
| author_sort | Możdżyńska-Nawotka, Małgorzata |
| author_variant | m m n mmn m d b mdb |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV049046268 |
| classification_rvk | LO 74770 |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)1418689084 (DE-599)BVBBV049046268 |
| discipline | Kunstgeschichte |
| era | Geschichte 1980-1990 gnd Geschichte 1981-1983 gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 1980-1990 Geschichte 1981-1983 |
| format | Book |
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| genre_facet | Ausstellungskatalog 18.04.2023-30.07.2023 Breslau |
| geographic | Polen (DE-588)4046496-9 gnd |
| geographic_facet | Polen |
| id | DE-604.BV049046268 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| index_date | 2024-07-03T22:20:23Z |
| indexdate | 2024-08-21T00:20:00Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9788366788275 836678827X |
| language | Polish |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-034308709 |
| oclc_num | 1418689084 |
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| owner | DE-12 DE-M17 |
| owner_facet | DE-12 DE-M17 |
| physical | 71 Seiten Porträts 21x21 cm |
| psigel | BSB_NED_20240301 |
| publishDate | 2023 |
| publishDateSearch | 2023 |
| publishDateSort | 2023 |
| publisher | Muzeum Narodowe we Wrocławiu |
| record_format | marc |
| spelling | Możdżyńska-Nawotka, Małgorzata Verfasser (DE-588)1159223580 aut Moda stanu wojennego = Fashion under martial law Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka, Maria Duffek-Bartoszewska Fashion under martial law Wrocław Muzeum Narodowe we Wrocławiu 2023 71 Seiten Porträts 21x21 cm txt rdacontent sti rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Przyjęta nazwa autorki: Maria Anna Duffek. Publikacja towarzysząca wystawie prezentowanej w Muzeum Narodowym we Wrocławiu w dniach 18 kwietnia-30 lipca 2023 r. Englische Zusammenfassung Geschichte 1980-1990 gnd rswk-swf Geschichte 1981-1983 gnd rswk-swf Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd rswk-swf Kriegsrecht Staatsrecht (DE-588)4525832-6 gnd rswk-swf Polen (DE-588)4046496-9 gnd rswk-swf Moda PRL. Stan wojenny w Polsce (1981-1983) Ubiór Polska 1901-2000 1945-1989 Opracowanie Publikacja bogato ilustrowana (DE-588)4135467-9 Ausstellungskatalog 18.04.2023-30.07.2023 Breslau gnd-content Polen (DE-588)4046496-9 g Kriegsrecht Staatsrecht (DE-588)4525832-6 s Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 s Geschichte 1981-1983 z DE-604 Geschichte 1980-1990 z Duffek-Bartoszewska, Maria Verfasser aut Digitalisierung BSB München 19 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=034308709&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis Digitalisierung BSB München 19 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=034308709&sequence=000003&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Abstract |
| spellingShingle | Możdżyńska-Nawotka, Małgorzata Duffek-Bartoszewska, Maria Moda stanu wojennego = Fashion under martial law Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Kriegsrecht Staatsrecht (DE-588)4525832-6 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4039792-0 (DE-588)4525832-6 (DE-588)4046496-9 (DE-588)4135467-9 |
| title | Moda stanu wojennego = Fashion under martial law |
| title_alt | Fashion under martial law |
| title_auth | Moda stanu wojennego = Fashion under martial law |
| title_exact_search | Moda stanu wojennego = Fashion under martial law |
| title_exact_search_txtP | Moda stanu wojennego = Fashion under martial law |
| title_full | Moda stanu wojennego = Fashion under martial law Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka, Maria Duffek-Bartoszewska |
| title_fullStr | Moda stanu wojennego = Fashion under martial law Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka, Maria Duffek-Bartoszewska |
| title_full_unstemmed | Moda stanu wojennego = Fashion under martial law Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka, Maria Duffek-Bartoszewska |
| title_short | Moda stanu wojennego |
| title_sort | moda stanu wojennego fashion under martial law |
| title_sub | = Fashion under martial law |
| topic | Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Kriegsrecht Staatsrecht (DE-588)4525832-6 gnd |
| topic_facet | Mode Kriegsrecht Staatsrecht Polen Ausstellungskatalog 18.04.2023-30.07.2023 Breslau |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=034308709&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=034308709&sequence=000003&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
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