The purpled world: marketing haute couture in the Aegean Bronze Age
"During the Aegean Bronze Age, the spread of woolen textiles triggered an increased demand for color. In The Purpled World, Silver reveals how Minoan and Mycenaean textile producers embedded commercial motivation into traditional rituals, and considers collapse of the Mycenaean Palaces as a man...
Gespeichert in:
| 1. Verfasser: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
Washington, DC
Center for Hellenic Studies
2023
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| Schriftenreihe: | Hellenic studies
92 |
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Zusammenfassung: | "During the Aegean Bronze Age, the spread of woolen textiles triggered an increased demand for color. In The Purpled World, Silver reveals how Minoan and Mycenaean textile producers embedded commercial motivation into traditional rituals, and considers collapse of the Mycenaean Palaces as a manifestation of disintegration in the textile industry"-- |
| Beschreibung: | xxviii, 494 Seiten, 16 ungezählte Seiten Tafeln Illustrationen 23 cm |
| ISBN: | 9780674272569 |
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| 490 | 1 | |a Hellenic studies |v 92 | |
| 505 | 8 | |a Aegean Bronze Age chronology -- Introduction : Studying a purpled world -- Part I. The palatial fashion showroom and runway -- Part II. Luxury textiles in the Bronze Age Aegean : economic aspects -- Part III. Achaeans, Ahhiyawans, and Mycenaean textile trade in Anatolia -- Part IV. The Homeric epics and Bronze Age Aegean textile trade -- Part V. Questions of Aegean textile trade before the Trojan War and after the Mycenaean Palaces -- Appendix. The basics of vertical industrial structure | |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
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| adam_text | Table of Contents List of Illustrations xiii Preface xix Acknowledgments xxiii Abbreviations xxv Aegean Bronze Age Chronology xxvii 1 Introduction: Studying a Purpled World Part I. The Palatial Fashion Showroom and Runway 1. The Bronze Age Aegean s Color Revolution and ItsRevolutionaries 11 2. The Style Conscious Path to Textile Dominance 23 3. Minoans and Mycenaeans 43 4. The Houses of Haute Couture: Megaron, Labyrinth, and Xeste 3 55 1. Megaron..................................................................................................... 56 2. Labyrinth.................................................................................................... 59 3. Xeste 3 in Akrotiri and the Crocus............................................................ 73 4. Textile Showroom as Labyrinth or Megaron............................................ 78 5. Provision for Visiting Textile Merchants 81 6. Structural Problems 83 1. Labyrinth Textile Showroom as Palace and/or Temple............................ 83 2. Athena as Potnia of the Labyrinth: Supporting Evidence....................... 86 3. Warrior as Agent of the Wanax, Wanax as Potnia’s Agent........................ 90 Janiform Reflections on Part I 99
Table of Contents Part II. Luxury Textiles in the Bronze Age Aegean: Economic Aspects 7. Wool, Murex, and Purpled Textiles: Bronze Age Potentialities and Procedures 105 1. Wool Production and Management.......................................................... 105 2. Archaeological Evidence for Murex Dye Production and Use in the Aegean.......................................................................................................... 106 3. Palatial Production of Purple-Dyed Textiles: Textual Evidence.............. 116 4. Iconographie Evidence of Palatial Production of Purple-dyed Textiles: Depictions of Murex Shells.......................................................................... 120 5. Palm, Purpurissium, and Agrimi................................................................ 123 6. Flower Motifs, Flower Lovers, and Festivals Celebrating Dyed Textile Exports.......................................................................................................... 127 8. Palatial Enterprise: Basic Questions 137 1. Redistribution vs. Trade: The “Finley Hypothesis”................................. 137 2. Gifts vs. “Collectors” of Oil........................................................................ 140 3. The “Importance” of the Mycenaean Luxury Trade in Textiles............. 145 4. Fundamentals of “Collectorship” and of “Kingship”.............................. 146 5. Commercial Terminology......................................................................... 151 6. More Controversy: Gift Giving vs. Trade, vs. Gift Giving Leading to
Trade...........................................................................................153 9. Palatial Textile Trade and Traders: A Closer Look 157 1. Direct Evidence for Textile Trade: Transfers to/from Named Places or Persons......................................................................................................... 157 2. Cloth “For Guests” and “For Followers”: More Gift vs. Trade................. 160 3. Palatial Employment of Textile Collectors: Ta-ra-si-ja and Kuprios....... 163 4. Indirect Evidence for Textile Trade: Adaptations in Ship Design and the (Alleged) Shipping Problem......................................................................... 165 5. Indirect Evidence for Textile Trade: Gold, Gold, and More Gold............ 167 6. Toward Certainty of Trading Connections: Linear A Inscriptions, Linear В Toponyms, Settlements, and “Incidentals”................................................. 177 7. Toward Certainty of Trading Connections: Migration of Skilled Workers to Greek Palatial Centers with Consideration of Their Legal Status.......... 186 8. Legal Status of Workers Designated by “Ethnics”.................................... 187 viii
Table of Contents Excursus 1. Purpiers as Contractual Slaves 193 10. The Labyrinth as a Textile Trader: Seeking Commercial Knowledge from Iconographie Symbols 195 1. Double-Headed Axe.................................................................................. 195 2. Sacral Knot, Snake Goddesses, and La Parisienne................................... 198 3. Labyrinth as Textile House...................................................................... 199 4. Seal Device and Seal User.........................................................................204 5. Figure-Eight Shield: First Look.................................................................205 6. The “Room 31” Fresco: Iconography of Agency and Legal Status......... 207 7. Pyxis from Aptera: Iconography of “Colonization”.................................213 8. Vase from Pseira, “5-Priestess Ring,” Palm, and Papyrus: Headquarters and Branches of the Labyrinth................................................................... 215 11. The Labyrinth as a Textile Trader: Seeking Commercial Knowledge from Iconographie Symbols (Concluded) 223 1. Roundel from Samothrace: Evidence for Potnia’s Participation in Overseas Commerce.................................................................................... 223 2. Dog as Commercial Actor, as Genius, and Beyond...................................225 3. Bearers of the Pouch............................................................................... 234 4. Wearing the Lion’s Skin On Top of One’s “Natural“ Skin....................... 236 5. Gala Welcome for
Traders: Campstools, Syrians, and Griffins............... 239 6. More Dogs and Dragons............................................................................258 7. The Syrian “Chief of the Keftiu”.............................................................. 263 Part III. Achaeans, Ahhiyawans, and Mycenaean Textile Trade in Anatolia Foreword to Part III 267 12. Homer s Epics: Dating and Value as Historical Evidence 269 1. Homer’s Language.................................................................................. 270 2. Questions of Rulership and Global Politics............................................. 276 3. Questions of Geography.......................................................................... 279 4. Questions about the Historicity of the Achaeans and Troy.................... 280 5. Trojan Problems....................................................................................... 288 6. Was Hisarlik/Troy Destroyed and Deserted?.......................................... 290 lx
Table of Contents 13. Interest of the Ahhiyawans/Mycenaeans in Trade 293 1. The Hittite Embargo................................................................................. 293 2. Copper Trade............................................................................................ 295 3. Lazpa and Trade in Purple Garments...................................................... 296 4. Lazpa: Lesbos or Anatolia?....................................................................... 297 5. Conclusions............................................................................................... 299 Part IV. The Homeric Epics and Bronze Age Aegean Textile Trade 14. The Commercial Origin of the Trojan War 303 1. Setting Homer in the Prepalatial Mycenaean Period.............................. 303 2. Gods Take Sides in the Trojan War...........................................................304 3. Poseidon and the Achaean Wall............................................................... 309 4. Agamemnon’s and Zeus’ Purple Portent of War.................................... 321 5. Helen as a Greek-Trojan Wife and as a Greek-Trojan Textile Enterprise.....................................................................................................326 6. Helen, Hera, and the Argives: A Speculative Interpretation................... 339 7. Aftermath of a Commercial War: From Achaean to Ahhiyawan............ 345 8. Postscript.................................................................................................. 350 15. Homeric Heroes and Gods as Participants in the
Cloth Trade 351 1. Odysseus: Predicting His Role from His Name and Genealogy.............. 351 2. Odysseus As Sheep and Textile Entrepreneur in Ithaca.................................................................................................... 355 3. From Flocks to Textiles: The Nostos of Odysseus..................................... 360 4. Odysseus: Agent of Poseidon.................................................................. 368 5. Wealthy Phaeacia and the Wrath of Poseidon........................................ 372 Excursus 2. Speculative Remarks on Currency in Homer 377 1. Hermes Rescues Ares from the Pot......................................................... 377 2. The Double-Headed Axes of Iron as an Archery Prize............................ 378 x
Table of Contents Part V. Questions of Aegean Textile Trade before the Trojan War and after the Mycenaean Palaces 16. Thoughts on the Golden Fleece and Textile Trade 383 17. The Mycenaean Palaces: Collapse or Disintegration? 391 1. The Demise of the Mycenaean Palaces................................................... 391 2. Vertical Structure in Minoan and Mycenaean Palaces........................... 392 3. Evidence for the Post-Palatial Period (LHIIIC)...................................... 399 Plates after page 407 Appendix: The Basics of Vertical Industrial Structure 409 References 413 Index 483
|
| adam_txt |
Table of Contents List of Illustrations xiii Preface xix Acknowledgments xxiii Abbreviations xxv Aegean Bronze Age Chronology xxvii 1 Introduction: Studying a Purpled World Part I. The Palatial Fashion Showroom and Runway 1. The Bronze Age Aegean's Color Revolution and ItsRevolutionaries 11 2. The Style Conscious Path to Textile Dominance 23 3. Minoans and Mycenaeans 43 4. The Houses of Haute Couture: Megaron, Labyrinth, and Xeste 3 55 1. Megaron. 56 2. Labyrinth. 59 3. Xeste 3 in Akrotiri and the Crocus. 73 4. Textile Showroom as Labyrinth or Megaron. 78 5. Provision for Visiting Textile Merchants 81 6. Structural Problems 83 1. Labyrinth Textile Showroom as Palace and/or Temple. 83 2. Athena as Potnia of the Labyrinth: Supporting Evidence. 86 3. Warrior as Agent of the Wanax, Wanax as Potnia’s Agent. 90 Janiform Reflections on Part I 99
Table of Contents Part II. Luxury Textiles in the Bronze Age Aegean: Economic Aspects 7. Wool, Murex, and Purpled Textiles: Bronze Age Potentialities and Procedures 105 1. Wool Production and Management. 105 2. Archaeological Evidence for Murex Dye Production and Use in the Aegean. 106 3. Palatial Production of Purple-Dyed Textiles: Textual Evidence. 116 4. Iconographie Evidence of Palatial Production of Purple-dyed Textiles: Depictions of Murex Shells. 120 5. Palm, Purpurissium, and Agrimi. 123 6. Flower Motifs, Flower Lovers, and Festivals Celebrating Dyed Textile Exports. 127 8. Palatial Enterprise: Basic Questions 137 1. Redistribution vs. Trade: The “Finley Hypothesis”. 137 2. Gifts vs. “Collectors” of Oil. 140 3. The “Importance” of the Mycenaean Luxury Trade in Textiles. 145 4. Fundamentals of “Collectorship” and of “Kingship”. 146 5. Commercial Terminology. 151 6. More Controversy: Gift Giving vs. Trade, vs. Gift Giving Leading to
Trade.153 9. Palatial Textile Trade and Traders: A Closer Look 157 1. Direct Evidence for Textile Trade: Transfers to/from Named Places or Persons. 157 2. Cloth “For Guests” and “For Followers”: More Gift vs. Trade. 160 3. Palatial Employment of Textile Collectors: Ta-ra-si-ja and Kuprios. 163 4. Indirect Evidence for Textile Trade: Adaptations in Ship Design and the (Alleged) Shipping Problem. 165 5. Indirect Evidence for Textile Trade: Gold, Gold, and More Gold. 167 6. Toward Certainty of Trading Connections: Linear A Inscriptions, Linear В Toponyms, Settlements, and “Incidentals”. 177 7. Toward Certainty of Trading Connections: Migration of Skilled Workers to Greek Palatial Centers with Consideration of Their Legal Status. 186 8. Legal Status of Workers Designated by “Ethnics”. 187 viii
Table of Contents Excursus 1. Purpiers as Contractual Slaves 193 10. The Labyrinth as a Textile Trader: Seeking Commercial Knowledge from Iconographie Symbols 195 1. Double-Headed Axe. 195 2. Sacral Knot, Snake Goddesses, and La Parisienne. 198 3. Labyrinth as Textile House. 199 4. Seal Device and Seal User.204 5. Figure-Eight Shield: First Look.205 6. The “Room 31” Fresco: Iconography of Agency and Legal Status. 207 7. Pyxis from Aptera: Iconography of “Colonization”.213 8. Vase from Pseira, “5-Priestess Ring,” Palm, and Papyrus: Headquarters and Branches of the Labyrinth. 215 11. The Labyrinth as a Textile Trader: Seeking Commercial Knowledge from Iconographie Symbols (Concluded) 223 1. Roundel from Samothrace: Evidence for Potnia’s Participation in Overseas Commerce. 223 2. Dog as Commercial Actor, as Genius, and Beyond.225 3. Bearers of the Pouch. 234 4. Wearing the Lion’s Skin On Top of One’s “Natural“ Skin. 236 5. Gala Welcome for
Traders: Campstools, Syrians, and Griffins. 239 6. More Dogs and Dragons.258 7. The Syrian “Chief of the Keftiu”. 263 Part III. Achaeans, Ahhiyawans, and Mycenaean Textile Trade in Anatolia Foreword to Part III 267 12. Homer's Epics: Dating and Value as Historical Evidence 269 1. Homer’s Language. 270 2. Questions of Rulership and Global Politics. 276 3. Questions of Geography. 279 4. Questions about the Historicity of the Achaeans and Troy. 280 5. Trojan Problems. 288 6. Was Hisarlik/Troy Destroyed and Deserted?. 290 lx
Table of Contents 13. Interest of the Ahhiyawans/Mycenaeans in Trade 293 1. The Hittite Embargo. 293 2. Copper Trade. 295 3. Lazpa and Trade in Purple Garments. 296 4. Lazpa: Lesbos or Anatolia?. 297 5. Conclusions. 299 Part IV. The Homeric Epics and Bronze Age Aegean Textile Trade 14. The Commercial Origin of the Trojan War 303 1. Setting Homer in the Prepalatial Mycenaean Period. 303 2. Gods Take Sides in the Trojan War.304 3. Poseidon and the Achaean Wall. 309 4. Agamemnon’s and Zeus’ Purple Portent of War. 321 5. Helen as a Greek-Trojan Wife and as a Greek-Trojan Textile Enterprise.326 6. Helen, Hera, and the Argives: A Speculative Interpretation. 339 7. Aftermath of a Commercial War: From Achaean to Ahhiyawan. 345 8. Postscript. 350 15. Homeric Heroes and Gods as Participants in the
Cloth Trade 351 1. Odysseus: Predicting His Role from His Name and Genealogy. 351 2. Odysseus As Sheep and Textile Entrepreneur in Ithaca. 355 3. From Flocks to Textiles: The Nostos of Odysseus. 360 4. Odysseus: Agent of Poseidon. 368 5. Wealthy Phaeacia and the Wrath of Poseidon. 372 Excursus 2. Speculative Remarks on Currency in Homer 377 1. Hermes Rescues Ares from the Pot. 377 2. The Double-Headed Axes of Iron as an Archery Prize. 378 x
Table of Contents Part V. Questions of Aegean Textile Trade before the Trojan War and after the Mycenaean Palaces 16. Thoughts on the Golden Fleece and Textile Trade 383 17. The Mycenaean Palaces: Collapse or Disintegration? 391 1. The Demise of the Mycenaean Palaces. 391 2. Vertical Structure in Minoan and Mycenaean Palaces. 392 3. Evidence for the Post-Palatial Period (LHIIIC). 399 Plates after page 407 Appendix: The Basics of Vertical Industrial Structure 409 References 413 Index 483 |
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| contents | Aegean Bronze Age chronology -- Introduction : Studying a purpled world -- Part I. The palatial fashion showroom and runway -- Part II. Luxury textiles in the Bronze Age Aegean : economic aspects -- Part III. Achaeans, Ahhiyawans, and Mycenaean textile trade in Anatolia -- Part IV. The Homeric epics and Bronze Age Aegean textile trade -- Part V. Questions of Aegean textile trade before the Trojan War and after the Mycenaean Palaces -- Appendix. The basics of vertical industrial structure |
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| id | DE-604.BV049000827 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| index_date | 2024-07-03T22:09:22Z |
| indexdate | 2024-07-10T09:52:28Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9780674272569 |
| language | English |
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| owner_facet | DE-12 |
| physical | xxviii, 494 Seiten, 16 ungezählte Seiten Tafeln Illustrationen 23 cm |
| psigel | BSB_NED_20231201 gbd_4_2403 |
| publishDate | 2023 |
| publishDateSearch | 2023 |
| publishDateSort | 2023 |
| publisher | Center for Hellenic Studies |
| record_format | marc |
| series | Hellenic studies |
| series2 | Hellenic studies |
| spelling | Silver, Morris 1931- Verfasser (DE-588)170721833 aut The purpled world marketing haute couture in the Aegean Bronze Age by Morris Silver Marketing haute couture in the Aegean Bronze Age Washington, DC Center for Hellenic Studies 2023 Cambridge, Massachusetts Harvard University Press xxviii, 494 Seiten, 16 ungezählte Seiten Tafeln Illustrationen 23 cm txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Hellenic studies 92 Aegean Bronze Age chronology -- Introduction : Studying a purpled world -- Part I. The palatial fashion showroom and runway -- Part II. Luxury textiles in the Bronze Age Aegean : economic aspects -- Part III. Achaeans, Ahhiyawans, and Mycenaean textile trade in Anatolia -- Part IV. The Homeric epics and Bronze Age Aegean textile trade -- Part V. Questions of Aegean textile trade before the Trojan War and after the Mycenaean Palaces -- Appendix. The basics of vertical industrial structure "During the Aegean Bronze Age, the spread of woolen textiles triggered an increased demand for color. In The Purpled World, Silver reveals how Minoan and Mycenaean textile producers embedded commercial motivation into traditional rituals, and considers collapse of the Mycenaean Palaces as a manifestation of disintegration in the textile industry"-- Ägäische Kultur (DE-588)4068427-1 gnd rswk-swf Textilwirtschaft (DE-588)4059653-9 gnd rswk-swf Textile fabrics, Ancient / Economic aspects / Aegean Sea Textile industry / Aegean Sea / History / To 1500 Color in the textile industries / History Bronze age / Aegean Sea Griechische Geschichte (DE-2581)TH000003492 gbd Kleidung (DE-2581)TH000008238 gbd Textilien (DE-2581)TH000008328 gbd Ägäische Kultur (DE-588)4068427-1 s Textilwirtschaft (DE-588)4059653-9 s DE-604 Hellenic studies 92 (DE-604)BV017738392 92 Digitalisierung BSB München - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=034264005&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Silver, Morris 1931- The purpled world marketing haute couture in the Aegean Bronze Age Hellenic studies Aegean Bronze Age chronology -- Introduction : Studying a purpled world -- Part I. The palatial fashion showroom and runway -- Part II. Luxury textiles in the Bronze Age Aegean : economic aspects -- Part III. Achaeans, Ahhiyawans, and Mycenaean textile trade in Anatolia -- Part IV. The Homeric epics and Bronze Age Aegean textile trade -- Part V. Questions of Aegean textile trade before the Trojan War and after the Mycenaean Palaces -- Appendix. The basics of vertical industrial structure Ägäische Kultur (DE-588)4068427-1 gnd Textilwirtschaft (DE-588)4059653-9 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4068427-1 (DE-588)4059653-9 |
| title | The purpled world marketing haute couture in the Aegean Bronze Age |
| title_alt | Marketing haute couture in the Aegean Bronze Age |
| title_auth | The purpled world marketing haute couture in the Aegean Bronze Age |
| title_exact_search | The purpled world marketing haute couture in the Aegean Bronze Age |
| title_exact_search_txtP | The purpled world marketing haute couture in the Aegean Bronze Age |
| title_full | The purpled world marketing haute couture in the Aegean Bronze Age by Morris Silver |
| title_fullStr | The purpled world marketing haute couture in the Aegean Bronze Age by Morris Silver |
| title_full_unstemmed | The purpled world marketing haute couture in the Aegean Bronze Age by Morris Silver |
| title_short | The purpled world |
| title_sort | the purpled world marketing haute couture in the aegean bronze age |
| title_sub | marketing haute couture in the Aegean Bronze Age |
| topic | Ägäische Kultur (DE-588)4068427-1 gnd Textilwirtschaft (DE-588)4059653-9 gnd |
| topic_facet | Ägäische Kultur Textilwirtschaft |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=034264005&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| volume_link | (DE-604)BV017738392 |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT silvermorris thepurpledworldmarketinghautecoutureintheaegeanbronzeage AT silvermorris marketinghautecoutureintheaegeanbronzeage |