Photography and modern icons: the visual planning of myth
This volume analyzes how six protagonists of culture, between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, built their media image by exploiting the innovations brought about by the invention of photography. By exalting the cult of personality, eccentric narcissism and the nasc...
Gespeichert in:
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Format: | Buch |
Sprache: | English Italian |
Veröffentlicht: |
Newcastle upon Tyne
Cambridge Scholars Publishing
2023
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Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
Zusammenfassung: | This volume analyzes how six protagonists of culture, between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, built their media image by exploiting the innovations brought about by the invention of photography. By exalting the cult of personality, eccentric narcissism and the nascent mass communication, they made the photographic portrait the tool through which they could become celebrities and, at the same time, found fashion and clothing styles that are still of reference today. From De Merode's stereotype of beauty to Baudelaire's total black dandyism, and from Schwarzenbach's lesbian-chic style to Nijinsky's eroticizing exoticism, the book provides detailed insights into the life and work of various protagonists, always keeping in the background the cultural and artistic context of European Modernism. It will particularly appeal to scholars and students of contemporary art, the history of photography, fashion studies and mass communications.00Federica Muzzarelli is Full Professor of History and Theory of Photography at the Department of Arts of the University of Bologna, Italy, where she is also Coordinator of the ?Photography Art Feminism? Research Centre. Her main research interests are the analysis and methodologies of photography in contemporary visual culture, and in particular the topic of women and photography. Her publications include Femmes Photographes. Emancipation et performance 1850-1940 (2009); Lee Miller and Man Ray: Photography, Fashion, Art (2016); Women Photographers: Annemarie Schwarzenbach, New Dandy and Lesbian Chic Icon (2018); and Clementina Hawarden and Claude Cahun: Photography and the Political Body of Women (2019), among many others |
Beschreibung: | "This volume, of whose publication for English-speaking readers I am very happy and proud, is the translation of a text that was published in Italian in 2013 and is now seeing the light in this new guise" (acknowledgments) |
Beschreibung: | ix, 183 Seiten Porträts 21 cm |
ISBN: | 9781527590885 1527590887 |
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adam_text |
PHOTOGRAPHY
AND
MODERN
ICONS:
THE VISUAL PLANNING
OF
MYTH
BY
FEDERICA MUZZARELLI
CAMBRIDGE
SCHOLARS
PUBLISHING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
LIST
OF
ILLUSTRATIONS
.
VII
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
.
X
CHAPTER ONE
.
1
PHOTOGRAPHY, FASHION, MODERNITY
CHAPTER TWO
.
6
CLEO DE MERODE, THE FIRST MASS ICON
1.
THE STAR, MODEM ICON
2.
THE
CARTE-DE-:-VISITE,
EMBLEM
OF
PEEP CULTURE
3. CLEO DE MERODE, THE STEREOTYPE
OF
BEAUTY
4.
COLLECTING CLEO
R
5.
THE DAWN
OF
POP STARDOM
6.
FASHION AND THE FILM ICON
7.
THEDA BARA AND LADY GAGA
CHAPTER THREE
.
31
CHARLES BAUDELAIRE, TOTAL BLACK DANDY
1. FROM 1859
SALON
TO DUCHAMP'S
FOUNTAIN
2.
WHAT IS A DANDY?
3. BAUDELAIRE, THE MAN
WHO IS NEVER FORGOTTEN
4.
THE DANDY AND PHOTOGRAPHY
5.
THE DANDY, ICON
OF
BLACK FASHION
6.
BAUDELAIRE IN PHOTOGRAPHIC ATELIERS
7.
A FICTIONALISED BIOGRAPHY
CHAPTER FOUR
.
61
ANNEMARIE SCHWARZENBACH, A LESBIAN-CHIC ANDROGYNOUS
1.
THE DEATH
OF
THE DANDY, THE RISE
OF
THE NEO-DANDY
2.
COCO CHANEL, TETE DE FILE
3. MODERNIST DANDY
4.
ANNEMARIE SCHWARZENBACH IN THE WORLD
OF
ANTONIO MARRAS
5.
"I ONLY LIVE WHEN
I'M
WRITING"
6. THE TRAVEL, THE SEARCH
FOR
ELSEWHERE
VI
TABLE
OF
CONTENTS
7.
THE UNITED STATES AND THE UTOPIA
OF
PHOTOJOURNALISM
8.
THE LAST STAGES, THE LAST PHOTOGRAPHS
CHAPTER FIVE
.
93
VASLAV NIJINSKY, EXOTIC & EROTIC
1.
FANTASTIC EXOTICISM
2.
FASHION, BALLETS RUSSES, AND ORIENTALIST REVIVAL
3. WITH PAUL POIRET "RUSSIA GOES ON"
4.
ADOLF DE MEYER, PHOTOGRAPHER
OF
THE BALLETS RUSSES
5.
NIJINSKY'S
PRELUDE
6. LEON BAKST, COSTUME AND FASHION DESIGNER
7.
"I SHOULD ONLY BELIEVE IN A GOD THAT WOULD KNOW HOW TO DANCE"
CHAPTER SIX
.
121
NANCY CUNARD, TRIBAL FETISHES AND AFRICAN STYLE
1.
PARIS, THE CITY WHERE ANYTHING COULD HAPPEN
2.
THE EXOTIC AS
AFRICAN STYLE
3.
NEGROPHILIE, NEGRITUDE, AND BLACK DECO
4. AFRICAN FASHION
5.
A MAGICAL BLACK IDOL: DONYALE LUNA
6. NANCY CUNARD,
"A
CULT FIGURE
OF
THE JAZZ AGE"
7. IVORY, GODS, MASKS, FETISHES
8.
PHOTOGENIC FESTISHES
9. LADY, FEMINIST, ANDROGINE, QUEER
CHAPTER SEVEN
.
'.
.
145
GABRIELE
D'
ANNUNZIO, AN ECCENTRIC SNOB
1.
AUTOBIOGRAPHY
OF
THE LEGEND
2.
THE SNOB WARDROBES
3.
D'
ANNUNZIO, FASHION STYLIST AND FASHION DESIGNER
4.
FROM THE BRAND TO THE VISUAL ICON
5.
"D 'ANNUNZIO' S CONTAGION"
6.
PHOTOGRAPHY, A FATAL ENCOUNTER
7.
THE OFFICIAL FAMILY ALBUM
8.
THE PUBLIC IDENTITY
BIBLIOGRAPHY
.
169 |
adam_txt |
PHOTOGRAPHY
AND
MODERN
ICONS:
THE VISUAL PLANNING
OF
MYTH
BY
FEDERICA MUZZARELLI
CAMBRIDGE
SCHOLARS
PUBLISHING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
LIST
OF
ILLUSTRATIONS
.
VII
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
.
X
CHAPTER ONE
.
1
PHOTOGRAPHY, FASHION, MODERNITY
CHAPTER TWO
.
6
CLEO DE MERODE, THE FIRST MASS ICON
1.
THE STAR, MODEM ICON
2.
THE
CARTE-DE-:-VISITE,
EMBLEM
OF
PEEP CULTURE
3. CLEO DE MERODE, THE STEREOTYPE
OF
BEAUTY
4.
COLLECTING CLEO
R
5.
THE DAWN
OF
POP STARDOM
6.
FASHION AND THE FILM ICON
7.
THEDA BARA AND LADY GAGA
CHAPTER THREE
.
31
CHARLES BAUDELAIRE, TOTAL BLACK DANDY
1. FROM 1859
SALON
TO DUCHAMP'S
FOUNTAIN
2.
WHAT IS A DANDY?
3. BAUDELAIRE, THE MAN
WHO IS NEVER FORGOTTEN
4.
THE DANDY AND PHOTOGRAPHY
5.
THE DANDY, ICON
OF
BLACK FASHION
6.
BAUDELAIRE IN PHOTOGRAPHIC ATELIERS
7.
A FICTIONALISED BIOGRAPHY
CHAPTER FOUR
.
61
ANNEMARIE SCHWARZENBACH, A LESBIAN-CHIC ANDROGYNOUS
1.
THE DEATH
OF
THE DANDY, THE RISE
OF
THE NEO-DANDY
2.
COCO CHANEL, TETE DE FILE
3. MODERNIST DANDY
4.
ANNEMARIE SCHWARZENBACH IN THE WORLD
OF
ANTONIO MARRAS
5.
"I ONLY LIVE WHEN
I'M
WRITING"
6. THE TRAVEL, THE SEARCH
FOR
ELSEWHERE
VI
TABLE
OF
CONTENTS
7.
THE UNITED STATES AND THE UTOPIA
OF
PHOTOJOURNALISM
8.
THE LAST STAGES, THE LAST PHOTOGRAPHS
CHAPTER FIVE
.
93
VASLAV NIJINSKY, EXOTIC & EROTIC
1.
FANTASTIC EXOTICISM
2.
FASHION, BALLETS RUSSES, AND ORIENTALIST REVIVAL
3. WITH PAUL POIRET "RUSSIA GOES ON"
4.
ADOLF DE MEYER, PHOTOGRAPHER
OF
THE BALLETS RUSSES
5.
NIJINSKY'S
PRELUDE
6. LEON BAKST, COSTUME AND FASHION DESIGNER
7.
"I SHOULD ONLY BELIEVE IN A GOD THAT WOULD KNOW HOW TO DANCE"
CHAPTER SIX
.
121
NANCY CUNARD, TRIBAL FETISHES AND AFRICAN STYLE
1.
PARIS, THE CITY WHERE ANYTHING COULD HAPPEN
2.
THE EXOTIC AS
AFRICAN STYLE
3.
NEGROPHILIE, NEGRITUDE, AND BLACK DECO
4. AFRICAN FASHION
5.
A MAGICAL BLACK IDOL: DONYALE LUNA
6. NANCY CUNARD,
"A
CULT FIGURE
OF
THE JAZZ AGE"
7. IVORY, GODS, MASKS, FETISHES
8.
PHOTOGENIC FESTISHES
9. LADY, FEMINIST, ANDROGINE, QUEER
CHAPTER SEVEN
.
'.
.
145
GABRIELE
D'
ANNUNZIO, AN ECCENTRIC SNOB
1.
AUTOBIOGRAPHY
OF
THE LEGEND
2.
THE SNOB WARDROBES
3.
D'
ANNUNZIO, FASHION STYLIST AND FASHION DESIGNER
4.
FROM THE BRAND TO THE VISUAL ICON
5.
"D 'ANNUNZIO' S CONTAGION"
6.
PHOTOGRAPHY, A FATAL ENCOUNTER
7.
THE OFFICIAL FAMILY ALBUM
8.
THE PUBLIC IDENTITY
BIBLIOGRAPHY
.
169 |
any_adam_object | 1 |
any_adam_object_boolean | 1 |
author | Muzzarelli, Federica |
author_GND | (DE-588)138458103 |
author_facet | Muzzarelli, Federica |
author_role | aut |
author_sort | Muzzarelli, Federica |
author_variant | f m fm |
building | Verbundindex |
bvnumber | BV048910844 |
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era | Geschichte 1840-1920 gnd |
era_facet | Geschichte 1840-1920 |
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geographic | Europa (DE-588)4015701-5 gnd |
geographic_facet | Europa |
id | DE-604.BV048910844 |
illustrated | Illustrated |
index_date | 2024-07-03T21:53:15Z |
indexdate | 2024-12-18T09:02:48Z |
institution | BVB |
isbn | 9781527590885 1527590887 |
language | English Italian |
oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-034175054 |
oclc_num | 1377760128 |
open_access_boolean | |
owner | DE-255 DE-Y3 |
owner_facet | DE-255 DE-Y3 |
physical | ix, 183 Seiten Porträts 21 cm |
publishDate | 2023 |
publishDateSearch | 2023 |
publishDateSort | 2023 |
publisher | Cambridge Scholars Publishing |
record_format | marc |
spelling | Muzzarelli, Federica Verfasser (DE-588)138458103 aut Moderne icone di moda, la costruzione fotografica del mito Photography and modern icons the visual planning of myth by Federica Muzzarelli Newcastle upon Tyne Cambridge Scholars Publishing 2023 ix, 183 Seiten Porträts 21 cm txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier "This volume, of whose publication for English-speaking readers I am very happy and proud, is the translation of a text that was published in Italian in 2013 and is now seeing the light in this new guise" (acknowledgments) This volume analyzes how six protagonists of culture, between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, built their media image by exploiting the innovations brought about by the invention of photography. By exalting the cult of personality, eccentric narcissism and the nascent mass communication, they made the photographic portrait the tool through which they could become celebrities and, at the same time, found fashion and clothing styles that are still of reference today. From De Merode's stereotype of beauty to Baudelaire's total black dandyism, and from Schwarzenbach's lesbian-chic style to Nijinsky's eroticizing exoticism, the book provides detailed insights into the life and work of various protagonists, always keeping in the background the cultural and artistic context of European Modernism. It will particularly appeal to scholars and students of contemporary art, the history of photography, fashion studies and mass communications.00Federica Muzzarelli is Full Professor of History and Theory of Photography at the Department of Arts of the University of Bologna, Italy, where she is also Coordinator of the ?Photography Art Feminism? Research Centre. Her main research interests are the analysis and methodologies of photography in contemporary visual culture, and in particular the topic of women and photography. Her publications include Femmes Photographes. Emancipation et performance 1850-1940 (2009); Lee Miller and Man Ray: Photography, Fashion, Art (2016); Women Photographers: Annemarie Schwarzenbach, New Dandy and Lesbian Chic Icon (2018); and Clementina Hawarden and Claude Cahun: Photography and the Political Body of Women (2019), among many others Nižinskij, Vaclav F. 1889-1950 (DE-588)118587978 gnd rswk-swf Schwarzenbach, Annemarie 1908-1942 (DE-588)118997718 gnd rswk-swf D'Annunzio, Gabriele 1863-1938 (DE-588)118503243 gnd rswk-swf Mérode, Cléo de 1875-1966 (DE-588)123492106 gnd rswk-swf Baudelaire, Charles 1821-1867 (DE-588)118507184 gnd rswk-swf Cunard, Nancy 1896-1965 (DE-588)118927299 gnd rswk-swf Geschichte 1840-1920 gnd rswk-swf Avantgarde (DE-588)4133965-4 gnd rswk-swf Modefotografie (DE-588)4137739-4 gnd rswk-swf Porträtfotografie (DE-588)4046840-9 gnd rswk-swf Kunst (DE-588)4114333-4 gnd rswk-swf Selbstdarstellung (DE-588)4122349-4 gnd rswk-swf Europa (DE-588)4015701-5 gnd rswk-swf Celebrities / Portraits / History / 19th century Celebrities / Portraits / History / 20th century Modernism (Art) Celebrities / Portraits 1800-1999 History Europa (DE-588)4015701-5 g Porträtfotografie (DE-588)4046840-9 s Modefotografie (DE-588)4137739-4 s Selbstdarstellung (DE-588)4122349-4 s Avantgarde (DE-588)4133965-4 s Kunst (DE-588)4114333-4 s Geschichte 1840-1920 z DE-604 Mérode, Cléo de 1875-1966 (DE-588)123492106 p Baudelaire, Charles 1821-1867 (DE-588)118507184 p Schwarzenbach, Annemarie 1908-1942 (DE-588)118997718 p Nižinskij, Vaclav F. 1889-1950 (DE-588)118587978 p Cunard, Nancy 1896-1965 (DE-588)118927299 p D'Annunzio, Gabriele 1863-1938 (DE-588)118503243 p V:DE-604 application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=034175054&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
spellingShingle | Muzzarelli, Federica Photography and modern icons the visual planning of myth Nižinskij, Vaclav F. 1889-1950 (DE-588)118587978 gnd Schwarzenbach, Annemarie 1908-1942 (DE-588)118997718 gnd D'Annunzio, Gabriele 1863-1938 (DE-588)118503243 gnd Mérode, Cléo de 1875-1966 (DE-588)123492106 gnd Baudelaire, Charles 1821-1867 (DE-588)118507184 gnd Cunard, Nancy 1896-1965 (DE-588)118927299 gnd Avantgarde (DE-588)4133965-4 gnd Modefotografie (DE-588)4137739-4 gnd Porträtfotografie (DE-588)4046840-9 gnd Kunst (DE-588)4114333-4 gnd Selbstdarstellung (DE-588)4122349-4 gnd |
subject_GND | (DE-588)118587978 (DE-588)118997718 (DE-588)118503243 (DE-588)123492106 (DE-588)118507184 (DE-588)118927299 (DE-588)4133965-4 (DE-588)4137739-4 (DE-588)4046840-9 (DE-588)4114333-4 (DE-588)4122349-4 (DE-588)4015701-5 |
title | Photography and modern icons the visual planning of myth |
title_alt | Moderne icone di moda, la costruzione fotografica del mito |
title_auth | Photography and modern icons the visual planning of myth |
title_exact_search | Photography and modern icons the visual planning of myth |
title_exact_search_txtP | Photography and modern icons the visual planning of myth |
title_full | Photography and modern icons the visual planning of myth by Federica Muzzarelli |
title_fullStr | Photography and modern icons the visual planning of myth by Federica Muzzarelli |
title_full_unstemmed | Photography and modern icons the visual planning of myth by Federica Muzzarelli |
title_short | Photography and modern icons |
title_sort | photography and modern icons the visual planning of myth |
title_sub | the visual planning of myth |
topic | Nižinskij, Vaclav F. 1889-1950 (DE-588)118587978 gnd Schwarzenbach, Annemarie 1908-1942 (DE-588)118997718 gnd D'Annunzio, Gabriele 1863-1938 (DE-588)118503243 gnd Mérode, Cléo de 1875-1966 (DE-588)123492106 gnd Baudelaire, Charles 1821-1867 (DE-588)118507184 gnd Cunard, Nancy 1896-1965 (DE-588)118927299 gnd Avantgarde (DE-588)4133965-4 gnd Modefotografie (DE-588)4137739-4 gnd Porträtfotografie (DE-588)4046840-9 gnd Kunst (DE-588)4114333-4 gnd Selbstdarstellung (DE-588)4122349-4 gnd |
topic_facet | Nižinskij, Vaclav F. 1889-1950 Schwarzenbach, Annemarie 1908-1942 D'Annunzio, Gabriele 1863-1938 Mérode, Cléo de 1875-1966 Baudelaire, Charles 1821-1867 Cunard, Nancy 1896-1965 Avantgarde Modefotografie Porträtfotografie Kunst Selbstdarstellung Europa |
url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=034175054&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
work_keys_str_mv | AT muzzarellifederica moderneiconedimodalacostruzionefotograficadelmito AT muzzarellifederica photographyandmoderniconsthevisualplanningofmyth |