Ingredients of change: the history and culture of food in modern Bulgaria
"This book explores the transformation of foodways in modern Bulgaria, through focused chapters on bread, meat, milk, vegetables, and wine. Such ingredients--as the Bulgarian diet itself--changed radically in form and substance in the shadow of changing global and local narratives, practices, a...
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| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
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Ithaca ; London
Cornell University Press
2022
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| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis Literaturverzeichnis Register // Gemischte Register |
| Zusammenfassung: | "This book explores the transformation of foodways in modern Bulgaria, through focused chapters on bread, meat, milk, vegetables, and wine. Such ingredients--as the Bulgarian diet itself--changed radically in form and substance in the shadow of changing global and local narratives, practices, and possibilities" |
| Beschreibung: | Literaturverzeichnis Seite 203-222 |
| Beschreibung: | x, 231 Seiten Illustrationen |
| ISBN: | 9781501762581 9781501762499 |
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0 Contents Acknowledgments vii Introduction 1 1. By Bread Alone? Hunger, Abundance, and the Politics of Grain 13 2. Vegetarian Visions and Meatopias: Morality, Pleasure, and the Power of Protein 51 3. Sour Milk: Long Life, the Future, and the Gut 85 4. “Ripe” Communism: An Ode to the Bulgarian Tomato and Pepper 114 5. Wine and Dine: Reds, Whites, and the Pursuit of Bacchus 146 Conclusion Notes 181 Bibliography 203 Index 223 173
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Index Aegean Sea, 3, 56, 92 Agni Yoga, 79-80, 170 agricultural collectivization, 6, 34-38, 69, 71, 83, 103—4, 127, 140, 175 Alan Kayrak, 63-64 alcohol, 9, 40, 63, 81, 100, 122, 126, 147-48, 150-61, 167, 169-72, 174-75, 177. Seealso bars and taverns; temperance; wine Allied Powers, 23-24, 34 American Journal of Medical Sciences, 90 American Relief Administration (ARA), 23-24 Anderson, Rufus, 153 Andreichin, Stefan, 66 animal husbandry, 52, 59, 69-70, 77, 82-83, 92—94, 96, 101, 104 Anti-Dühring, 74 apples, 18, 117, 155 apricots, 117 Australia, 43 Austria, 21-22, 28, 43, 49, 119, 134 Axis Powers, 32,34, 126 Bacchus, 151, 164-65,170, 176 Bacillus bulgaricus bacteria, 86-89, 99,101, 105, 111, 113. See also yogurt Bagrianov, Ivan, 29 Bai Ganyо : Incredible Tales of a Modern Bulgarian, 118-19 bakeries, 17, 25, 33, 40, 49 baklava, 18 Balkan Wars, 3, 21, 62, 157 Balkanturist, 76, 143,163-64 banitsa, 2, 17-18, 20, 41, 45-46, 49, 110 Barkley, H. C., 55 barley, 16, 43 bars and taverns, 151, 156-57, 159, 160, 163, 167, 168, 169 basil, 139 beans, 64, 66, 108-9, 116, 179 beef, 56, 65, 69-71, 77. Seealso meat beer, 81, 100, 156, 157, 162, 168, 169 Bekovski, Georgi, 169 Belorechki, Alexander, 81 Bialo Bratstvo. See White Brotherhood birarii, 157 biurek. See banitsa Black Sea, 3, 16, 56, 63, 70, 76, 92, 137-38, 146-47, 162, 164, 176, 179 Blagoev, Dimitilr, 22-23 Blavatsky, Helena, 29, 79 Bobrow-Strain, Aaron, 42 Bogomilism, 63, 65, 80-81, 151, 154, 158, 169, 175, 177 Bolsheviks, 14, 21-25, 159, 175 Boris III, Tsar, 25, 29 Botev, Khristo, 20, 58, 119-20, 155 bread bread fillers, 13, 22, 43
bread rationing, 13, 21-22, 32-33, 37, 43,48 Bulgarian Communist Party control of, 14, 22-23, 34, 40-41 collectivization, impact of, 34-38 communal ovens, 17, 25 culinary heritage, 7, 16-19 in food science, 26-30, 39-42, 98 German exports of, 13, 21-23, 32 in Gotvarska kniga, 18 inflationary prices of, 20-22, 31, 49 in interwar politics, 25-33 mechanized production of, 39-41, 45, 48 Ottoman rebanee on, 16-17 overconsumption of, 15, 26, 42-48, 66, 83 as peasant lifeblood, 16, 18-24, 45-46, 55, 94, 98, 117, 122 piti, 16-17 protein levels of, 15, 26-27, 45, 66 and revolutions, 13-15, 18-24, 49 Soviet reliance on, 6, 14, 21, 24, 43 as symbol of power, 14, 17, 19-20, 40, 49 Thracian production of, 7-8 223
ггь, INDEX bread (continued) and urban development, 14, 16-18, 40 US production of, 27, 41 Western reliance on, 8, 40-41 whole grain as superior, 15,27, 29-31,39, 45-46, 49-50, 66, 98, 124 and women's revolts, 13-14, 18, 22-23 Wonder bread, 42, 50 World War I shortages of, 13-14, 32 Brezhnev, Leonid, 51 buffalo, 37, 56, 71, 92—93, 95, 104, 107 Bulgaria before the War, 55 Bulgaria Today, 134-35 Bulgarian Agrarian National Union (BANU), 23, 33, 36, 63, 67,157 Bulgarian Communist Party (BCP), 14, 22-23, 25, 33-37, 40-41, 63, 67-68, 83, 128-29, 157-60, 167, 169, 172, 175 Bulgarian Foreign Trade, 141,165 Bulgarian National Revival, 56-58, 77, 93, 119, 154, 165 Bulgarian National Temperance Union, 159 Bulgarian Social Democratic Workers Party, 157 Bulgarian Temptations: 33 Illustrated Culinary Journeys with Recipes, 110,164 Bulgarian Vegetarian Union, 64-65 Bulgarkonserv, 134-35 Bulgarplodexport, 134,141 Bułgarska narodna meditsina (Bulgarian folk medicine), 46 Bułgarska natsionałna kukhnia (Bulgarian national cuisine), 46, 77, 108-10 Bułgarsko kiselo mliako (Bulgarian yogurt), 100 burek. See banitsa butter, 17-18, 41, 92, 94, 110 cabbage, 51, 116-17, 135 Całłfor a Futurefor the Heart, 111-12 Canada, 43 Carasso, Isaac, 91 carbohydrates, 5, 45, 68, 116, 132, 178 carrots, 135, 139 Castro, Fidel, 51 Ceauşescu, Nicolae, 51-52 celery, 135, 138-39 Central Powers, 21-23, 126 cheese, 2, 7-8, 17, 92, 94, 98, 100, 102-4, 111, 114, 117,143. See also feta cheese Chicago slaughterhouses, 62, 65 chicken, 13, 18, 55, 57-58, 69, 76, 109. See also meat China, 130 Chobani, 112 cholesterol, 82,105
chorba. See soup Christianity, 3, 16-18, 20-21, 30, 52, 55-57, 63-66, 71, 93—94, 108, 150-54, 174 chushkopek, 140 cider, 155 coffeehouse (kafene), 17, 151 Communist Information Bureau (Cominform), 35-36, 44-45 Communist International (Comintern), 159 cookbooks, 4, 18, 40-41, 45-46, 51, 58, 73-77, 83, 86, 96—99, 107-10, 120-22, 139, 142-45, 176—77 corn, 16, 22, 41, 43, 117 Council for Mutual Economic Assistance (Comecon), 5, 36, 44-45, 132-33, 162, 178 cows, 56, 65, 69-71, 91—93, 102-4, 107, 175, 179 Crampton, Richard, 36 Croatia, 33 cucumbers, 99, 108-9, 111, 114, 116, 120, 143 Currie, Hugh Maclnnes, 136 Czechoslovakia, 33, 43, 45, 118-19 dairy products. See individual food items damaskin, 150 Danone/Dannon, 91, 105,111-12 Danube River, 16, 21, 65, 119, 134, 146 Davis, Dora, 154 Democratic Accord (1923-31), 25 Denmark, 134 Detchev, Stefan, 143 Dialectics of Nature, 74 Dimitrov, Georgi, 159 Dimkov, Petur, 46, 81 Dimov, Nikola, 102 Dobrudja, 16, 21, 32, 37 Domashno konservirane (Home food preser vation), 139 Dosev, Khristo, 64—65 droughts, 24, 32, 37, 43, 69 Dilnov, Petiir, 29-30, 63, 157-58. See aho White Brotherhood East Germany, 45, 130 eggplant, 116, 120, 142 eggs, 18, 98, 109, 124, 128 Eisenhower, Dwight D., 39 Engels, Friedrich, 74-75 Ethics of Diet, The, 61
INDEX Etika na khranata, ili Pioneri na vegetariánstvo (The ethics of food, or, The pioneers of vegetarianism), 65 European Recovery Program. See Marshall Plan European Union (EU), 12, 49, 82, 111 Evdokia, 29 famines, 6, 24, 27-28, 123 fascism, 6, 25, 31, 33 fasting, 52, 55-56, 61, 66, 72, 76, 78, 81-84, 94, 102, 117, 148, 150, 174-75 Fatherland Front, 34, 40,129 Ferdinand, Tsar, 23 Fernández-Armesto, Felipe, 16,173 feta cheese, 2, 17, 92, 114, 143 "First Step, The,” 61, 65 flour, 13, 17-18, 20, 22, 27, 40-42, 46, 110. See also bread Fol, Alexander, 170 Food and Agriculture Organization, 8-9 Food for Peace Act, 39, 44 food riots, 13-14, 23 food scholarship, 2, 7, 21, 26-27, 42, 54, 72, 89-90, 92, 98-100, 106-7, 147, 169-70, 173 France, 33, 43, 91, 104-6, 151, 157, 162 Freeman, Orville, 136 fruits Asen Zlatarov's advocacy of, 27, 123-25, 127 Bulgarian Communist Party control of, 15 digestive properties of, 124 as disease antidote, 115-16,123,126 in food science, 123 nutritional benefits of, 45, 115-17, 122-28, 132-33 preservation techniques, 120, 126,130, 134, 139-42 stewed, 95 as yogurt additive, 105 Funk, Kazimierz, 123 Gandhi, Indira, 80 Ganov, Zakhari, 31 garlic, 16, 55, 94, 99, 109, 116-17, 120 Gay Bulgaria, 43 Georgiev, Petur, 31 Georgiev, Stefan, 64 Germany, 6, 13, 21-23, 25, 31-33, 49,126, 129, 162 glasnost, 48 goats, 3, 56-57, 69, 71, 91-93, 102, 104, 108 225 Golemiiat khliab (Big bread), 48 Gorbachev, Mikhail, 48, 170 Gotvarska kniga (Cookbook), 18, 58, 96, 98, 120,155 Gotvarska kniga za müzlié (Cookbook for men), 143 grains. See bread Great Rila Wilderness, The,
61, 149 Greece, 35, 43, 61, 96, 109-10, 151 Grigorov, Stamen, 89, 97, 103, 113, 179 Gulag, 28 Habsburg Empire, 1,3, 118 Hamlin, Cyrus, 152 Hitler, Adolf, 158 Holy Week, 102 honey, 109, 179 Hoover, Herbert, 23-24 Hungary, 38, 43, 48, 76, 82, 119, 130, 132-33, 162 India, 66, 79-80, 86, 91 Institut na khranene (Institute of Nutri tion), 42, 72 Institute for Viticulture and Enology, 161 International Conference on Vitamins, 133-34 lordanov, Μ., 100 Istanbul, 3, 16-18, 56-58, 94, 117, 119-20, 142 Italy, 25, 33, 35, 125-26, 131, 151, 162 Izgrev (Sunrise) commune, 30 Japan, 111 Jews, 32, 56, 91, 95, 108, 174 Jireček, Konstantin, 118 Johnson, Stowers, 43 Jones, Henry, 152 kachamak, 46 kafene, 17,151 Kantardzhiev, Asen, 99-100 Karavelov, Liuben, 93 Kassabova, Kapka, 143 Kazakhstan, 38, 43 kebab, 51-52, 58, 62, 77, 110 kebabche, 1, 52, 59, 77, 81, 111 kebabchi, 58 Kellogg, John Harvey, 91 Kennedy, John E, 44 ketchup, 116, 142 KGB, 82 Khrana i zhivot (Food and life), 31 Khranoiznos, 33
22б INDEX Khrushchev, Nikita, 38-39, 107,130-31, 137-38, 140, 160 kiufte, 52, 58, 77 Kniga za vinato (The book of wine), 146, 165-67 Kniga za vseki den i vseki dom (The book for every day and every home), 46, 85, 87, 109, 139,163 Koley N., 133-34 Konstantinov, Aleko, 62, 118 Kostantinova, Nevyana, 111-12 Kostentseva, Raina, 95 kriichma, 155-56, 159, 163, 167 kulaks, 37 lamb, 18, 56—58, 65, 69, 71, 76-77, 81, 175. See also meat League of Nations, 5, 8, 26, 98, 115-16,123 leeks, 109, 116 legumes, 27, 66, 94, 98,122, 124 Lend-Lease program, 34 Lenin, Vladimir, 23, 39, 67, 79, 103, 108 Lent, 72, 102 Levski, Vasil, 154, 169 liutenitsa, 114,142-43 Larnite retsepti na Bai Dancho: 100 kulināri idei za nai-vkusen divech (Hunting recipes of Bai Dancho: 100 culinary ideas for the tastiest wild game), 51 Lozarstvo i vinarstvo (Viticulture and wine making), 160 Lulchev, Liubomir, 29 Lysenkoism, 6, 28, 39 Macedonia, 20-21, 25, 32, 146 Malenkov, Georgi, 38 Marinov, Dimitűr, 142, 150 Markov, Emil, 110, 163-64 Marshall, George C., 35 Marshall Plan, 34-37 Marxism, 7, 28, 67, 80-81, 103, 107, 129, 177 masika, 150 Massol, Léon, 89 McDonald’s, 12 meat animal husbandry developments, 52, 59, 69-70, 77, 82-83, 94 beef, 56, 65, 69-71, 77 big game hunting, 51-52, 81 biochemical transformations, 54, 71-73 Bulgarian Communist Party control of, 15, 83 Chicago slaughterhouses, 62, 65 chicken, 13,18, 55, 57-58, 69, 76, 109 cholesterol concerns, 82 communist bioimaginary, 53, 68-78, 83 consumption patterns, 9, 49, 52-53, 56, 59, 68-72, 76, 81-83, 127, 144, 173-74 dried meat products, 56, 58-59 ethical
concerns, 54-55, 61-67, 79, 177 fasting, 52, 55-56, 61, 66, 72, 76, 78, 81-84, 94, 102, 117, 148, 150 in food science, 53, 66—73, 82 German exports of, 69 goat, 3, 56-57, 69, 71, 91-93, 102, 104, 108 grilled meats, 1, 51-52, 58-59, 62, 77, 81, 110-11 Instimi na khranene studies, 72 lamb, 18, 56-58, 65, 69, 71, 76-77, 81, 175 meat processing developments, 52-53, 62, 65, 69-70 meat rations, 32, 56, 69-70, 75 Mesotsentral, 69-70 nutritional benefits of, 45, 52-54, 72-75, 77, 127 pork, 52, 57-59, 65, 69-71, 76-77, 174-76 as protein source, 15, 52-54, 68, 72, 83, 98, 101-2, 158, 175 rabbit, 51, 58 restaurant offerings, 76-77, 83 sheep, 3, 55-57, 59, 65, 71, 91-93, 102-4, 107, 175 socialist emphasis on, 52-54, 68, 72-79, 83-84, 177 Soviet rebanee on, 68-69, 128 as symbol of power, 53-62 veal, 58, 76-77,110 as vitamin source, 8-9, 54, 68 Western reliance on, 53, 55, 66, 68, 76, 82-83, 128 See also vegetables; vegetarianism Mechnikov, Ilya, 85-91, 97, 99-101, 103, 105-6, 109, 111, 113 Meiji Milk, 111 mekhani, 157 Mendel, Gregor, 28 Mendelson, Anne, 86 Meriam, William W, 152-53 milk agricultural collectivization, impact of, 103-4 animal husbandry developments, 92-94, 101, 104 buffalo, 92-93, 104, 107 buttermilk, 90 camels, 91
INDEX consumption patterns, 9, 49, 94-95, 102-^1, 107-8, 144 COWS, 91-93, 102-4, 107, 175 fasting, 94 feta cheese production, 2, 17, 92, 114, 143 in food science, 88-91, 99-103, 106-8, 111-13 goat, 91-93, 102, 104, 108 koumis, 92 mlekari, 95 Mlekarski narechnik (Milk manual), 99 nutritional benefits of, 45, 101-4, 128 Ottoman trade patterns, 93-97 pasteurization, 88-92, 99, 101 pathogen concerns, 88, 90, 92, 106 as protein source, 15, 98, 101-2, 158, 175 seasonal supplies of, 94 Serdika dairy, 103 sheep, 91—93, 102-4, 107, 175 technological advancements, 99,102-6 Thracian production of, 106-7 as vitamin source, 8-9 See also yogurt millet, 16 minerals, 5, 67-68, 86, 98, 115,125 Missionary News from Bulgaria, 153 Mitev, Ivan, 26 Mlekarski narechnik (Milk manual), 99 Mobil Oil, 136-37 Molotov, Vyacheslay 35, 124 Molotov Plan, 35-36 Muslims, 20, 56, 71, 96, 108, 151-53, 174 mutton. See lamb Nasha kukhnia (Our cuisine), 75,107-8, 142 National Committee of Art and Culture, 79 National Neutral Temperance Union, 157 Nazi Party, 31-32, 69, 126,129, 158 Neara Thousand Tables, 173 Nine Rabbits, 138-39, 143 Norway, 134 Nova gotvarska kniga (New cookbook), 98-99, 142 Novo obshtestvo (New society), 65 oats, 16 Obretenov, Nikola, 154 onions, 16, 94, 114, 116-17, 120, 122, 139, 142-43, 178 Orpheus, 61, 80, 151, 154, 170, 175, 177 Ottoman Empire 227 agricultural development, 3, 93, 117, 119-20 animal-based economy, 93-97 bread consumption in, 16-17 Bulgarian liberation, 3, 20, 58-59, 65 Bulgarian National Revival, 56-58, 77, 93, 119, 154, 165 cuisine diversity, 3, 17, 95, 117, 122
dissolution of, 1, 20 fluctuating borders of, 1 food supply lines, 3, 16, 56-59, 93-97, 117, 119-20 Istanbul, 3, 16-18, 56-58, 94, 117, 119-20 legacy dishes, 17, 57-58 milk trade, 93-97 social mobility barriers, 18-19, 117 trade centers, 3, 56-58, 93-97,117 wine consumption in, 149, 169 oxen, 36—37, 56, 95 paprika, 119 parsley, 109, 135, 138, 149 Partiichev, Vladimir, 100-101 Pasteur, Louis, 88, 90, 100 Pasteurinstitute, 89, 91, 99 pastries, 2, 15, 49, 95, 176. See also banitsa Pavlov, Ivan, 27, 85, 124 peppers breeding programs, 133 chushkopek, 140 consumption patterns, 114-20, 125, 127, 129-33, 142-44, 173-74 digestive properties of, 125 in food science, 116, 125-33, 144 food waste, 131 hot peppers (piperki), 16, 115,117, 121-22, 125, 139, 142-43, 175 in liutenitsa, 114, 142-43 and national identity, 114-16,118, 142-44 New World origins of, 115, 117,144 paprika, 119 personal plots, 140-42, 144 production priorities, 129-38, 176 pulp, 130 socialist emphasis on, 115, 129-30, 143-45 sweet peppers (chushki), 115,118, 120-22, 125, 139-40, 142-43, 175 and vitality, 115 as vitamin source, 115-16, 124-25,127, 134, 144 PepsiCo, 162 perestroika, 48 Petrov, Liuben, 46, 108—9
228 INDEX PhrenologicalJournal, 90 phylloxera, 122,150 pickling (tursku), 114, 117, 120, 134, 139 pigs. See pork pilafs, 18, 120 pitas, 46 piti, 16-17 pivnitsa, 168 Plovdiv Higher Institute of the Food and Beverage Industries, 160 plows, 25, 36, 48 plums, 117, 122, 147, 150, 155 Poland, 43-44, 48, 70, 82, 122, 130, 136 Politburo, 79 popara, 17,18,46 Popdimitrov; K., 100 pork, 52, 57-59, 65, 69-71, 76-77, 174-76. See also meat potatoes, 109,117 poverty, 24, 26-27, 35, 56, 59, 66, 102, 122, 124, 126, 156 Prolongation of Life, The, 88-89 protein bread as source of, 15, 26-27, 45, 66 Bulgarian deficiencies of, 26-27, 66-67, 72-73, 77, 98, 124, 175 communist bioimaginary, 68-69, 72—78 consumption patterns, 9, 67, 72-73, 98 daily requirements of, 9,26-27, 67-68, 72—75, 77, 83, 98, 101-2, 124, 144, 175 as global focus, 8-9 meat as source of, 15, 52-54, 68, 72-73, 83, 98, 101-2, 158, 175 milk as source of, 15, 98, 101-2, 158, 175 Western reliance on, 15, 18, 26-27, 67, 98 yogurt as source of, 86, 97-98, 108-9,112 pumpkin, 20, 120 rabbit, 51, 58 Rabotnicheski vestnik (Workers' newspaper), 23 radishes, 108,117 Radomir, 23 Raikin, Spas, 16-17, 20 rakia, 147, 150,155-56, 161 Rani, Devika, 80 Red Army, 6, 33-34, 126, 158 rice, 3,16, 18, 108, 120 Rilski, Ivan, 56, 61, 149-50, 154, 174 Roerich, Elena, 79 Roerich, Nikolai, 79-81 Roerich, Svetoslav, 80 Romania, 32, 52, 57, 76, 136 Rukovodstvo po obshtestveno khranene (Management of pubhc nutrition), 73-75 Rusk, Dean, 136 Russia, 1-3, 14, 18, 24, 38, 108, 119,137,155 Russian Revolution, 6, 21 Russo-Turkish War, 20, 58, 96 rye, 16, 41 Saint
Georgi’s Day, 56 salsa, 116 salt, 16, 58, 77, 94, 99, 120, 122, 135, 139, 142 Scientific American, 90 scurvy, 115-16, 123 Serbia, 57, 119 Serdika, 103 Shaw, Byron, 136 sheep, 3, 55—57, 59, 65, 71, 91-93, 102-4, 107, 175 Shepard, C. H., 90 shish kebab. See kebab shkembe chorba, 110 shopska salata, 114,143 Siberia, 38 sirene, 92 Six-Year Plan, 37 skara stands, 77 Slaveikov, Petko, 18, 58, 96, 98, 109, 120, 142, 155 Slosson, Edwin, 90 Sofia Institute of Wine, 160 Sofia University, 66 Something We Should Know about Our Eating Habits, 39,127 soup, 58, 77, 98-99, 108-10, 118, 120-21, 125, 139, 142 Soviet Union agricultural production in, 6, 35-39, 43, 130-31 alcohol production in, 159 bread consumption in, 6, 14, 21, 24, 43 collectivization efforts, 6, 34, 37 consumer culture, 107, 161 famine, 27 food as symbol of power, 6,14, 34-36 fruit and vegetable consumption in, 133 Gulag, 28 KGB, 82 Lysenkoism, 6, 28, 39 meat consumption in, 68-69, 128 Molotov Plan, 35-36 Red Army, 6, 33-34, 126, 158 restaurants, 76 science and technology, 5-6, 67,124
INDEX Ukraine forced famine, 6, 28 and United Nations Relief and Rehabili tation Administration (UNRRA), 35 United States, grain imports from, 44 Virgin and Idle Lands program, 38-39, 43 soybeans, 66 Spain, 49 spanakopita, 110 spices, 3, 16-18, 56, 108, 110, 117, 119-20, 155 spirits. See alcohol Stalin, Joseph, 6, 28, 35, 38, 43, 67-68, 75, 79-80, 104, 129-30, 159-60 Stamboliski, Alexander, 23, 25, 64, 157 Stanchev, Nikola, 127 Standing Commission on Bood Industries, 45 stews, 52, 58, 108, 110, 114, 120-21, 142, 149 Stoïchkov, Iordan, 51-52 Strandzha, 56, 63-64 street vendors, 17-18, 41, 57, 59, 77 Streetcar with No Name, A, 143 Streptococcus thermophilus bacteria, 99, 111. See also yogurt sugar, 18, 41, 45-46, 94, 105, 135, 139 Sunny Beach, 162 SUvremenna kukhnia: 3000 retsepta (Modern cuisine: 3,000 recipes), 75-76 Svoboda (Freedom), 65 Sweden, 70 Switzerland, 134 Tagore, Rabindranath, 66-67 tarator, 98-99, 108-9, 111 Tashev, Tasho, 45, 72 Tatar-Pazardzhik, 22-23 taverns. See bars and taverns temperance, 147, 148, 149, 151,153-54, 156, 157-59, 167-70, 172, 174-75, 176-77 Third International Vegetarian Conference, 62 Thrace, 7-8, 16, 20-21, 25, 32, 37, 61, 77, 80-81, 106-7, 110, 142, 146, 151, 164-65, 169-70, 175 thyme, 16 To Chicago and Back, 62 tobacco, 9, 20, 151, 154 Todorov, Piirvan, 48 Todorov, Stefan, 46 Tolstoyan movement, 28-30, 36, 61-67, 81, 125, 127, 157-58, 179 tomatoes breeding programs, 133 consumption patterns, 114-16, 121, 125, 127, 129-33, 138-39, 142-44, 173-74 229 in food science, 116, 125-33, 144 food waste, 131 ketchup, 116, 142 and national
identity, 114-16, 142-44 New World origins of, 115, 117, 144 personal plots, 140-42, 144 production priorities, 129-38, 176 pureed, 114, 129, 131-32 in shopska salata, 114,143 socialist emphasis on, 115, 129-30, 143-45 and vitality, 115 as vitamin source, 115-16, 124-25, 127, 132, 134, 144 Tomov, Ivan, 39-40, 125, 127-29 Trezvenost (Temperance), 168 Truman, Harry, 35 Tsankov, Alexander, 25 Tsankov, Dragan, 156 Turist (Tourist), 168 turshu, 117 Ukraine, 6, 38, 137 Ulukaya, Hamdi, 112 Under the Yoke, 59-61, 148-49 United Nations, 5, 8-9, 34-35, 115-16, 129 United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization, 35, 129 United Nations Relief and Rehabilitation Administration (UNRRA), 34-35 United States American Relief Administration (ARA), 23-24 bread production in, 27, 41-42 Bulgaria, relations with, 23-24, 135-36 Department of Agriculture food groups, 129 environmental damage, 9-10 European food aid, 8-9, 23-24, 34-37, 43-44 Food for Peace Act, 39, 44 food industrialization, 8-10, 27, 39, 41-42, 50, 53, 62, 142, 145 food scholarship, 2 government impact on agriculture, 9 Marshall Plan, 34-37 meat consumption in, 82 meat processing, 53, 62 obesity rates, 10,42, 50 processed food consumption in, 10 United States Food Administration (USFA), 23 yogurt consumption in, 105, 112
230 INDEX Vatralski, Stoian, 63 Vavilov, Nikolai, 27-28, 39, 124 Väzov, Ivan, 59-61, 148-50, 155, 168 veal, 58, 76-77, 110. See also meat vegetables Asen Zlatarov's advocacy of, 27, 123-25, 127 Bulgarian Communist Party control of, 15 Bulgarian Vegetarian Union, 64-65 digestive properties of, 124 as disease antidote, 115-16, 123, 126 ethical vegetarianism, 61-67 in food science, 123 Leo Tolstoy’s advocacy of, 61-67 Liudmila Zhivkova's advocacy of, 54, 79-82 nutritional benefits of, 9, 45, 115-17, 122-28, 132-33 peasant cultivation of, 55 pickling (turshu), 114, 117, 120, 134, 139 preservation techniques, 120, 126,130, 134, 139-42 See ako peppers; tomatoes vegetarianism, 28-29, 45, 53-55, 61, 63, 66-67, 79-84, 98-99, 125, 128, 174-77 Vegetarianski pregled (Vegetarian review), 28-29, 64-65 Vestnik na zhenata (Journal for women), 98, 124 vinegar, 90, 99-100, 105, 117, 135 Vinempex, 161 Vinprom, 160-61, 163 vitamins В vitamins, 54, 116 bread as source of, 66 Bulgarian deficiencies of, 26-27, 66, 124 C vitamins, 115-16, 132, 134 D vitamins, 115-16 daily requirements of, 9, 67-68, 116, 124, 144, 158, 175 as global focus, 8-9 meat as source of, 8-9, 54, 68 milk as source of, 98 peppers as source of, 115-16,124-25, 127, 134,144 tomatoes as source of, 115-16, 124-25, 127, 132, 134, 144 yogurt as source of, 86 Vlaikov, Todor, 64 Volga River, 65 Von Bremzen, Anya, 10 Vuzrazhdane (Revival), 65 watermelons, 143 West Germany, 134, 137 wheat, 3, 5, 9, 15-16, 23, 27, 30-32, 36-38, 41-44. See also bread White Brotherhood, 29, 63, 65, 67, 80-81, 83, 157-58, 170 White or Black Bread, 31
Williams, Howard, 61 Wilson, Woodrow, 23 wine biochemical effects of, 147-48, 158-59, 177 Bulgarian Communist Party (BCP) opposition to, 157-60, 167, 169, 172 as church revenue source, 150 consumption patterns, 147-48, 150, 155-56, 161-63, 167, 173-74 culinary heritage, 7 as dietary staple, 150, 158 exports of, 147-48, 160-62, 170-71, 176 fasting, 150 food pairing, 16,157 in food science, 160, 165 fortifying qualities of, 150, 158,165, 171 Kniga za vinato (The book of wine), 146, 165-67 local varietals, 161-62, 164-66 microorganisms, role of, 100, 162, 165 and national identity, 164-67, 171-72,176 Ottoman consumption of, 149,169 phylloxera, 122, 150 production patterns, 7-8, 146, 150-51, 156, 160-65, 169-71 Protestant opposition to, 151-55, 157-58 socialist emphasis on, 147, 158,160, 163-64, 167 technological advancements, 161-62 and temperance efforts, 147, 149,151-60, 167-72, 174-77 Thracian production of, 7-8, 146, 151, 164-65, 169-70 Vinempex, 161 Vinprom, 160-61, 163 wine competitions, 162-63 wine houses (mekhani), 157 Woman's Christian Temperance Union (WCTU), 154 women's revolts, 13-14, 18, 22-23 Wonder bread, 42, 50 World Health Organization, 9 Yasna Polyana, 64, 67 yeast, 17-18
INDEX yogurt airan, 109 Bacillus Bulgariens bacteria, 86-89, 99,101, 105, 111, 113 Bułgarska kiselo mliako (Bulgarian yogurt), 100 Chobani, 112 consumption patterns, 86, 91, 98-109, 112, 173-74 Danone/Dannon, 91, 105,111-12 Eurasian yogurt belt, 86, 91, 113 Greek yogurt, 112 Ilya Mechnikov's advocacy of, 85-91, 97, 99—101, 103, 105-6, 109, 111, 113 as mineral source, 86 and national identity, 2, 86-87, 92, 97, 100-102, 106-13 origins of, 87-88, 91—92, 96-97 probiotic properties of, 85-90, 97, 99-100, 105-9, 112-13 as protein source, 86, 97-98, 108-9, 112 Serdika dairy, 103 231 socialist emphasis on, 86, 102-3, 106, 109 Streptococcus thermophilus bacteria, 99, 111 tarator, 98-99, 108-9, 111 technological advancements, 99, 102-5 Thracian connections, 92, 110 US consumption of, 105, 112 as vitamin source, 86 yogurt museum, 179 Yoplait, 106, 112 See also milk Yoplait, 106,112 Yugoslavia, 32, 35, 43, 110, 136 Zaharieva, Virginia, 138-39, 143 Zhenata dnes (Woman today), 142 Zhivkov, Todor, 45-46, 51-52, 79, 106, 130, 135, 161, 170, 177 Zhivkova, Liudmila, 45-46, 54, 79-82, 170, 177 Zlatarov, Asen, 26-30, 39, 42, 66-68, 72, 82, 98, 123-25, 127-29 Zornitsa, 153 Bayerisch® StaatsWbłloihek München |
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0 Contents Acknowledgments vii Introduction 1 1. By Bread Alone? Hunger, Abundance, and the Politics of Grain 13 2. Vegetarian Visions and Meatopias: Morality, Pleasure, and the Power of Protein 51 3. Sour Milk: Long Life, the Future, and the Gut 85 4. “Ripe” Communism: An Ode to the Bulgarian Tomato and Pepper 114 5. Wine and Dine: Reds, Whites, and the Pursuit of Bacchus 146 Conclusion Notes 181 Bibliography 203 Index 223 173
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Index Aegean Sea, 3, 56, 92 Agni Yoga, 79-80, 170 agricultural collectivization, 6, 34-38, 69, 71, 83, 103—4, 127, 140, 175 Alan Kayrak, 63-64 alcohol, 9, 40, 63, 81, 100, 122, 126, 147-48, 150-61, 167, 169-72, 174-75, 177. Seealso bars and taverns; temperance; wine Allied Powers, 23-24, 34 American Journal of Medical Sciences, 90 American Relief Administration (ARA), 23-24 Anderson, Rufus, 153 Andreichin, Stefan, 66 animal husbandry, 52, 59, 69-70, 77, 82-83, 92—94, 96, 101, 104 Anti-Dühring, 74 apples, 18, 117, 155 apricots, 117 Australia, 43 Austria, 21-22, 28, 43, 49, 119, 134 Axis Powers, 32,34, 126 Bacchus, 151, 164-65,170, 176 Bacillus bulgaricus bacteria, 86-89, 99,101, 105, 111, 113. See also yogurt Bagrianov, Ivan, 29 Bai Ganyо : Incredible Tales of a Modern Bulgarian, 118-19 bakeries, 17, 25, 33, 40, 49 baklava, 18 Balkan Wars, 3, 21, 62, 157 Balkanturist, 76, 143,163-64 banitsa, 2, 17-18, 20, 41, 45-46, 49, 110 Barkley, H. C., 55 barley, 16, 43 bars and taverns, 151, 156-57, 159, 160, 163, 167, 168, 169 basil, 139 beans, 64, 66, 108-9, 116, 179 beef, 56, 65, 69-71, 77. Seealso meat beer, 81, 100, 156, 157, 162, 168, 169 Bekovski, Georgi, 169 Belorechki, Alexander, 81 Bialo Bratstvo. See White Brotherhood birarii, 157 biurek. See banitsa Black Sea, 3, 16, 56, 63, 70, 76, 92, 137-38, 146-47, 162, 164, 176, 179 Blagoev, Dimitilr, 22-23 Blavatsky, Helena, 29, 79 Bobrow-Strain, Aaron, 42 Bogomilism, 63, 65, 80-81, 151, 154, 158, 169, 175, 177 Bolsheviks, 14, 21-25, 159, 175 Boris III, Tsar, 25, 29 Botev, Khristo, 20, 58, 119-20, 155 bread bread fillers, 13, 22, 43
bread rationing, 13, 21-22, 32-33, 37, 43,48 Bulgarian Communist Party control of, 14, 22-23, 34, 40-41 collectivization, impact of, 34-38 communal ovens, 17, 25 culinary heritage, 7, 16-19 in food science, 26-30, 39-42, 98 German exports of, 13, 21-23, 32 in Gotvarska kniga, 18 inflationary prices of, 20-22, 31, 49 in interwar politics, 25-33 mechanized production of, 39-41, 45, 48 Ottoman rebanee on, 16-17 overconsumption of, 15, 26, 42-48, 66, 83 as peasant lifeblood, 16, 18-24, 45-46, 55, 94, 98, 117, 122 piti, 16-17 protein levels of, 15, 26-27, 45, 66 and revolutions, 13-15, 18-24, 49 Soviet reliance on, 6, 14, 21, 24, 43 as symbol of power, 14, 17, 19-20, 40, 49 Thracian production of, 7-8 223
ггь, INDEX bread (continued) and urban development, 14, 16-18, 40 US production of, 27, 41 Western reliance on, 8, 40-41 whole grain as superior, 15,27, 29-31,39, 45-46, 49-50, 66, 98, 124 and women's revolts, 13-14, 18, 22-23 Wonder bread, 42, 50 World War I shortages of, 13-14, 32 Brezhnev, Leonid, 51 buffalo, 37, 56, 71, 92—93, 95, 104, 107 Bulgaria before the War, 55 Bulgaria Today, 134-35 Bulgarian Agrarian National Union (BANU), 23, 33, 36, 63, 67,157 Bulgarian Communist Party (BCP), 14, 22-23, 25, 33-37, 40-41, 63, 67-68, 83, 128-29, 157-60, 167, 169, 172, 175 Bulgarian Foreign Trade, 141,165 Bulgarian National Revival, 56-58, 77, 93, 119, 154, 165 Bulgarian National Temperance Union, 159 Bulgarian Social Democratic Workers Party, 157 Bulgarian Temptations: 33 Illustrated Culinary Journeys with Recipes, 110,164 Bulgarian Vegetarian Union, 64-65 Bulgarkonserv, 134-35 Bulgarplodexport, 134,141 Bułgarska narodna meditsina (Bulgarian folk medicine), 46 Bułgarska natsionałna kukhnia (Bulgarian national cuisine), 46, 77, 108-10 Bułgarsko kiselo mliako (Bulgarian yogurt), 100 burek. See banitsa butter, 17-18, 41, 92, 94, 110 cabbage, 51, 116-17, 135 Całłfor a Futurefor the Heart, 111-12 Canada, 43 Carasso, Isaac, 91 carbohydrates, 5, 45, 68, 116, 132, 178 carrots, 135, 139 Castro, Fidel, 51 Ceauşescu, Nicolae, 51-52 celery, 135, 138-39 Central Powers, 21-23, 126 cheese, 2, 7-8, 17, 92, 94, 98, 100, 102-4, 111, 114, 117,143. See also feta cheese Chicago slaughterhouses, 62, 65 chicken, 13, 18, 55, 57-58, 69, 76, 109. See also meat China, 130 Chobani, 112 cholesterol, 82,105
chorba. See soup Christianity, 3, 16-18, 20-21, 30, 52, 55-57, 63-66, 71, 93—94, 108, 150-54, 174 chushkopek, 140 cider, 155 coffeehouse (kafene), 17, 151 Communist Information Bureau (Cominform), 35-36, 44-45 Communist International (Comintern), 159 cookbooks, 4, 18, 40-41, 45-46, 51, 58, 73-77, 83, 86, 96—99, 107-10, 120-22, 139, 142-45, 176—77 corn, 16, 22, 41, 43, 117 Council for Mutual Economic Assistance (Comecon), 5, 36, 44-45, 132-33, 162, 178 cows, 56, 65, 69-71, 91—93, 102-4, 107, 175, 179 Crampton, Richard, 36 Croatia, 33 cucumbers, 99, 108-9, 111, 114, 116, 120, 143 Currie, Hugh Maclnnes, 136 Czechoslovakia, 33, 43, 45, 118-19 dairy products. See individual food items damaskin, 150 Danone/Dannon, 91, 105,111-12 Danube River, 16, 21, 65, 119, 134, 146 Davis, Dora, 154 Democratic Accord (1923-31), 25 Denmark, 134 Detchev, Stefan, 143 Dialectics of Nature, 74 Dimitrov, Georgi, 159 Dimkov, Petur, 46, 81 Dimov, Nikola, 102 Dobrudja, 16, 21, 32, 37 Domashno konservirane (Home food preser vation), 139 Dosev, Khristo, 64—65 droughts, 24, 32, 37, 43, 69 Dilnov, Petiir, 29-30, 63, 157-58. See aho White Brotherhood East Germany, 45, 130 eggplant, 116, 120, 142 eggs, 18, 98, 109, 124, 128 Eisenhower, Dwight D., 39 Engels, Friedrich, 74-75 Ethics of Diet, The, 61
INDEX Etika na khranata, ili Pioneri na vegetariánstvo (The ethics of food, or, The pioneers of vegetarianism), 65 European Recovery Program. See Marshall Plan European Union (EU), 12, 49, 82, 111 Evdokia, 29 famines, 6, 24, 27-28, 123 fascism, 6, 25, 31, 33 fasting, 52, 55-56, 61, 66, 72, 76, 78, 81-84, 94, 102, 117, 148, 150, 174-75 Fatherland Front, 34, 40,129 Ferdinand, Tsar, 23 Fernández-Armesto, Felipe, 16,173 feta cheese, 2, 17, 92, 114, 143 "First Step, The,” 61, 65 flour, 13, 17-18, 20, 22, 27, 40-42, 46, 110. See also bread Fol, Alexander, 170 Food and Agriculture Organization, 8-9 Food for Peace Act, 39, 44 food riots, 13-14, 23 food scholarship, 2, 7, 21, 26-27, 42, 54, 72, 89-90, 92, 98-100, 106-7, 147, 169-70, 173 France, 33, 43, 91, 104-6, 151, 157, 162 Freeman, Orville, 136 fruits Asen Zlatarov's advocacy of, 27, 123-25, 127 Bulgarian Communist Party control of, 15 digestive properties of, 124 as disease antidote, 115-16,123,126 in food science, 123 nutritional benefits of, 45, 115-17, 122-28, 132-33 preservation techniques, 120, 126,130, 134, 139-42 stewed, 95 as yogurt additive, 105 Funk, Kazimierz, 123 Gandhi, Indira, 80 Ganov, Zakhari, 31 garlic, 16, 55, 94, 99, 109, 116-17, 120 Gay Bulgaria, 43 Georgiev, Petur, 31 Georgiev, Stefan, 64 Germany, 6, 13, 21-23, 25, 31-33, 49,126, 129, 162 glasnost, 48 goats, 3, 56-57, 69, 71, 91-93, 102, 104, 108 225 Golemiiat khliab (Big bread), 48 Gorbachev, Mikhail, 48, 170 Gotvarska kniga (Cookbook), 18, 58, 96, 98, 120,155 Gotvarska kniga za müzlié (Cookbook for men), 143 grains. See bread Great Rila Wilderness, The,
61, 149 Greece, 35, 43, 61, 96, 109-10, 151 Grigorov, Stamen, 89, 97, 103, 113, 179 Gulag, 28 Habsburg Empire, 1,3, 118 Hamlin, Cyrus, 152 Hitler, Adolf, 158 Holy Week, 102 honey, 109, 179 Hoover, Herbert, 23-24 Hungary, 38, 43, 48, 76, 82, 119, 130, 132-33, 162 India, 66, 79-80, 86, 91 Institut na khranene (Institute of Nutri tion), 42, 72 Institute for Viticulture and Enology, 161 International Conference on Vitamins, 133-34 lordanov, Μ., 100 Istanbul, 3, 16-18, 56-58, 94, 117, 119-20, 142 Italy, 25, 33, 35, 125-26, 131, 151, 162 Izgrev (Sunrise) commune, 30 Japan, 111 Jews, 32, 56, 91, 95, 108, 174 Jireček, Konstantin, 118 Johnson, Stowers, 43 Jones, Henry, 152 kachamak, 46 kafene, 17,151 Kantardzhiev, Asen, 99-100 Karavelov, Liuben, 93 Kassabova, Kapka, 143 Kazakhstan, 38, 43 kebab, 51-52, 58, 62, 77, 110 kebabche, 1, 52, 59, 77, 81, 111 kebabchi, 58 Kellogg, John Harvey, 91 Kennedy, John E, 44 ketchup, 116, 142 KGB, 82 Khrana i zhivot (Food and life), 31 Khranoiznos, 33
22б INDEX Khrushchev, Nikita, 38-39, 107,130-31, 137-38, 140, 160 kiufte, 52, 58, 77 Kniga za vinato (The book of wine), 146, 165-67 Kniga za vseki den i vseki dom (The book for every day and every home), 46, 85, 87, 109, 139,163 Koley N., 133-34 Konstantinov, Aleko, 62, 118 Kostantinova, Nevyana, 111-12 Kostentseva, Raina, 95 kriichma, 155-56, 159, 163, 167 kulaks, 37 lamb, 18, 56—58, 65, 69, 71, 76-77, 81, 175. See also meat League of Nations, 5, 8, 26, 98, 115-16,123 leeks, 109, 116 legumes, 27, 66, 94, 98,122, 124 Lend-Lease program, 34 Lenin, Vladimir, 23, 39, 67, 79, 103, 108 Lent, 72, 102 Levski, Vasil, 154, 169 liutenitsa, 114,142-43 Larnite retsepti na Bai Dancho: 100 kulināri idei za nai-vkusen divech (Hunting recipes of Bai Dancho: 100 culinary ideas for the tastiest wild game), 51 Lozarstvo i vinarstvo (Viticulture and wine making), 160 Lulchev, Liubomir, 29 Lysenkoism, 6, 28, 39 Macedonia, 20-21, 25, 32, 146 Malenkov, Georgi, 38 Marinov, Dimitűr, 142, 150 Markov, Emil, 110, 163-64 Marshall, George C., 35 Marshall Plan, 34-37 Marxism, 7, 28, 67, 80-81, 103, 107, 129, 177 masika, 150 Massol, Léon, 89 McDonald’s, 12 meat animal husbandry developments, 52, 59, 69-70, 77, 82-83, 94 beef, 56, 65, 69-71, 77 big game hunting, 51-52, 81 biochemical transformations, 54, 71-73 Bulgarian Communist Party control of, 15, 83 Chicago slaughterhouses, 62, 65 chicken, 13,18, 55, 57-58, 69, 76, 109 cholesterol concerns, 82 communist bioimaginary, 53, 68-78, 83 consumption patterns, 9, 49, 52-53, 56, 59, 68-72, 76, 81-83, 127, 144, 173-74 dried meat products, 56, 58-59 ethical
concerns, 54-55, 61-67, 79, 177 fasting, 52, 55-56, 61, 66, 72, 76, 78, 81-84, 94, 102, 117, 148, 150 in food science, 53, 66—73, 82 German exports of, 69 goat, 3, 56-57, 69, 71, 91-93, 102, 104, 108 grilled meats, 1, 51-52, 58-59, 62, 77, 81, 110-11 Instimi na khranene studies, 72 lamb, 18, 56-58, 65, 69, 71, 76-77, 81, 175 meat processing developments, 52-53, 62, 65, 69-70 meat rations, 32, 56, 69-70, 75 Mesotsentral, 69-70 nutritional benefits of, 45, 52-54, 72-75, 77, 127 pork, 52, 57-59, 65, 69-71, 76-77, 174-76 as protein source, 15, 52-54, 68, 72, 83, 98, 101-2, 158, 175 rabbit, 51, 58 restaurant offerings, 76-77, 83 sheep, 3, 55-57, 59, 65, 71, 91-93, 102-4, 107, 175 socialist emphasis on, 52-54, 68, 72-79, 83-84, 177 Soviet rebanee on, 68-69, 128 as symbol of power, 53-62 veal, 58, 76-77,110 as vitamin source, 8-9, 54, 68 Western reliance on, 53, 55, 66, 68, 76, 82-83, 128 See also vegetables; vegetarianism Mechnikov, Ilya, 85-91, 97, 99-101, 103, 105-6, 109, 111, 113 Meiji Milk, 111 mekhani, 157 Mendel, Gregor, 28 Mendelson, Anne, 86 Meriam, William W, 152-53 milk agricultural collectivization, impact of, 103-4 animal husbandry developments, 92-94, 101, 104 buffalo, 92-93, 104, 107 buttermilk, 90 camels, 91
INDEX consumption patterns, 9, 49, 94-95, 102-^1, 107-8, 144 COWS, 91-93, 102-4, 107, 175 fasting, 94 feta cheese production, 2, 17, 92, 114, 143 in food science, 88-91, 99-103, 106-8, 111-13 goat, 91-93, 102, 104, 108 koumis, 92 mlekari, 95 Mlekarski narechnik (Milk manual), 99 nutritional benefits of, 45, 101-4, 128 Ottoman trade patterns, 93-97 pasteurization, 88-92, 99, 101 pathogen concerns, 88, 90, 92, 106 as protein source, 15, 98, 101-2, 158, 175 seasonal supplies of, 94 Serdika dairy, 103 sheep, 91—93, 102-4, 107, 175 technological advancements, 99,102-6 Thracian production of, 106-7 as vitamin source, 8-9 See also yogurt millet, 16 minerals, 5, 67-68, 86, 98, 115,125 Missionary News from Bulgaria, 153 Mitev, Ivan, 26 Mlekarski narechnik (Milk manual), 99 Mobil Oil, 136-37 Molotov, Vyacheslay 35, 124 Molotov Plan, 35-36 Muslims, 20, 56, 71, 96, 108, 151-53, 174 mutton. See lamb Nasha kukhnia (Our cuisine), 75,107-8, 142 National Committee of Art and Culture, 79 National Neutral Temperance Union, 157 Nazi Party, 31-32, 69, 126,129, 158 Neara Thousand Tables, 173 Nine Rabbits, 138-39, 143 Norway, 134 Nova gotvarska kniga (New cookbook), 98-99, 142 Novo obshtestvo (New society), 65 oats, 16 Obretenov, Nikola, 154 onions, 16, 94, 114, 116-17, 120, 122, 139, 142-43, 178 Orpheus, 61, 80, 151, 154, 170, 175, 177 Ottoman Empire 227 agricultural development, 3, 93, 117, 119-20 animal-based economy, 93-97 bread consumption in, 16-17 Bulgarian liberation, 3, 20, 58-59, 65 Bulgarian National Revival, 56-58, 77, 93, 119, 154, 165 cuisine diversity, 3, 17, 95, 117, 122
dissolution of, 1, 20 fluctuating borders of, 1 food supply lines, 3, 16, 56-59, 93-97, 117, 119-20 Istanbul, 3, 16-18, 56-58, 94, 117, 119-20 legacy dishes, 17, 57-58 milk trade, 93-97 social mobility barriers, 18-19, 117 trade centers, 3, 56-58, 93-97,117 wine consumption in, 149, 169 oxen, 36—37, 56, 95 paprika, 119 parsley, 109, 135, 138, 149 Partiichev, Vladimir, 100-101 Pasteur, Louis, 88, 90, 100 Pasteurinstitute, 89, 91, 99 pastries, 2, 15, 49, 95, 176. See also banitsa Pavlov, Ivan, 27, 85, 124 peppers breeding programs, 133 chushkopek, 140 consumption patterns, 114-20, 125, 127, 129-33, 142-44, 173-74 digestive properties of, 125 in food science, 116, 125-33, 144 food waste, 131 hot peppers (piperki), 16, 115,117, 121-22, 125, 139, 142-43, 175 in liutenitsa, 114, 142-43 and national identity, 114-16,118, 142-44 New World origins of, 115, 117,144 paprika, 119 personal plots, 140-42, 144 production priorities, 129-38, 176 pulp, 130 socialist emphasis on, 115, 129-30, 143-45 sweet peppers (chushki), 115,118, 120-22, 125, 139-40, 142-43, 175 and vitality, 115 as vitamin source, 115-16, 124-25,127, 134, 144 PepsiCo, 162 perestroika, 48 Petrov, Liuben, 46, 108—9
228 INDEX PhrenologicalJournal, 90 phylloxera, 122,150 pickling (tursku), 114, 117, 120, 134, 139 pigs. See pork pilafs, 18, 120 pitas, 46 piti, 16-17 pivnitsa, 168 Plovdiv Higher Institute of the Food and Beverage Industries, 160 plows, 25, 36, 48 plums, 117, 122, 147, 150, 155 Poland, 43-44, 48, 70, 82, 122, 130, 136 Politburo, 79 popara, 17,18,46 Popdimitrov; K., 100 pork, 52, 57-59, 65, 69-71, 76-77, 174-76. See also meat potatoes, 109,117 poverty, 24, 26-27, 35, 56, 59, 66, 102, 122, 124, 126, 156 Prolongation of Life, The, 88-89 protein bread as source of, 15, 26-27, 45, 66 Bulgarian deficiencies of, 26-27, 66-67, 72-73, 77, 98, 124, 175 communist bioimaginary, 68-69, 72—78 consumption patterns, 9, 67, 72-73, 98 daily requirements of, 9,26-27, 67-68, 72—75, 77, 83, 98, 101-2, 124, 144, 175 as global focus, 8-9 meat as source of, 15, 52-54, 68, 72-73, 83, 98, 101-2, 158, 175 milk as source of, 15, 98, 101-2, 158, 175 Western reliance on, 15, 18, 26-27, 67, 98 yogurt as source of, 86, 97-98, 108-9,112 pumpkin, 20, 120 rabbit, 51, 58 Rabotnicheski vestnik (Workers' newspaper), 23 radishes, 108,117 Radomir, 23 Raikin, Spas, 16-17, 20 rakia, 147, 150,155-56, 161 Rani, Devika, 80 Red Army, 6, 33-34, 126, 158 rice, 3,16, 18, 108, 120 Rilski, Ivan, 56, 61, 149-50, 154, 174 Roerich, Elena, 79 Roerich, Nikolai, 79-81 Roerich, Svetoslav, 80 Romania, 32, 52, 57, 76, 136 Rukovodstvo po obshtestveno khranene (Management of pubhc nutrition), 73-75 Rusk, Dean, 136 Russia, 1-3, 14, 18, 24, 38, 108, 119,137,155 Russian Revolution, 6, 21 Russo-Turkish War, 20, 58, 96 rye, 16, 41 Saint
Georgi’s Day, 56 salsa, 116 salt, 16, 58, 77, 94, 99, 120, 122, 135, 139, 142 Scientific American, 90 scurvy, 115-16, 123 Serbia, 57, 119 Serdika, 103 Shaw, Byron, 136 sheep, 3, 55—57, 59, 65, 71, 91-93, 102-4, 107, 175 Shepard, C. H., 90 shish kebab. See kebab shkembe chorba, 110 shopska salata, 114,143 Siberia, 38 sirene, 92 Six-Year Plan, 37 skara stands, 77 Slaveikov, Petko, 18, 58, 96, 98, 109, 120, 142, 155 Slosson, Edwin, 90 Sofia Institute of Wine, 160 Sofia University, 66 Something We Should Know about Our Eating Habits, 39,127 soup, 58, 77, 98-99, 108-10, 118, 120-21, 125, 139, 142 Soviet Union agricultural production in, 6, 35-39, 43, 130-31 alcohol production in, 159 bread consumption in, 6, 14, 21, 24, 43 collectivization efforts, 6, 34, 37 consumer culture, 107, 161 famine, 27 food as symbol of power, 6,14, 34-36 fruit and vegetable consumption in, 133 Gulag, 28 KGB, 82 Lysenkoism, 6, 28, 39 meat consumption in, 68-69, 128 Molotov Plan, 35-36 Red Army, 6, 33-34, 126, 158 restaurants, 76 science and technology, 5-6, 67,124
INDEX Ukraine forced famine, 6, 28 and United Nations Relief and Rehabili tation Administration (UNRRA), 35 United States, grain imports from, 44 Virgin and Idle Lands program, 38-39, 43 soybeans, 66 Spain, 49 spanakopita, 110 spices, 3, 16-18, 56, 108, 110, 117, 119-20, 155 spirits. See alcohol Stalin, Joseph, 6, 28, 35, 38, 43, 67-68, 75, 79-80, 104, 129-30, 159-60 Stamboliski, Alexander, 23, 25, 64, 157 Stanchev, Nikola, 127 Standing Commission on Bood Industries, 45 stews, 52, 58, 108, 110, 114, 120-21, 142, 149 Stoïchkov, Iordan, 51-52 Strandzha, 56, 63-64 street vendors, 17-18, 41, 57, 59, 77 Streetcar with No Name, A, 143 Streptococcus thermophilus bacteria, 99, 111. See also yogurt sugar, 18, 41, 45-46, 94, 105, 135, 139 Sunny Beach, 162 SUvremenna kukhnia: 3000 retsepta (Modern cuisine: 3,000 recipes), 75-76 Svoboda (Freedom), 65 Sweden, 70 Switzerland, 134 Tagore, Rabindranath, 66-67 tarator, 98-99, 108-9, 111 Tashev, Tasho, 45, 72 Tatar-Pazardzhik, 22-23 taverns. See bars and taverns temperance, 147, 148, 149, 151,153-54, 156, 157-59, 167-70, 172, 174-75, 176-77 Third International Vegetarian Conference, 62 Thrace, 7-8, 16, 20-21, 25, 32, 37, 61, 77, 80-81, 106-7, 110, 142, 146, 151, 164-65, 169-70, 175 thyme, 16 To Chicago and Back, 62 tobacco, 9, 20, 151, 154 Todorov, Piirvan, 48 Todorov, Stefan, 46 Tolstoyan movement, 28-30, 36, 61-67, 81, 125, 127, 157-58, 179 tomatoes breeding programs, 133 consumption patterns, 114-16, 121, 125, 127, 129-33, 138-39, 142-44, 173-74 229 in food science, 116, 125-33, 144 food waste, 131 ketchup, 116, 142 and national
identity, 114-16, 142-44 New World origins of, 115, 117, 144 personal plots, 140-42, 144 production priorities, 129-38, 176 pureed, 114, 129, 131-32 in shopska salata, 114,143 socialist emphasis on, 115, 129-30, 143-45 and vitality, 115 as vitamin source, 115-16, 124-25, 127, 132, 134, 144 Tomov, Ivan, 39-40, 125, 127-29 Trezvenost (Temperance), 168 Truman, Harry, 35 Tsankov, Alexander, 25 Tsankov, Dragan, 156 Turist (Tourist), 168 turshu, 117 Ukraine, 6, 38, 137 Ulukaya, Hamdi, 112 Under the Yoke, 59-61, 148-49 United Nations, 5, 8-9, 34-35, 115-16, 129 United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization, 35, 129 United Nations Relief and Rehabilitation Administration (UNRRA), 34-35 United States American Relief Administration (ARA), 23-24 bread production in, 27, 41-42 Bulgaria, relations with, 23-24, 135-36 Department of Agriculture food groups, 129 environmental damage, 9-10 European food aid, 8-9, 23-24, 34-37, 43-44 Food for Peace Act, 39, 44 food industrialization, 8-10, 27, 39, 41-42, 50, 53, 62, 142, 145 food scholarship, 2 government impact on agriculture, 9 Marshall Plan, 34-37 meat consumption in, 82 meat processing, 53, 62 obesity rates, 10,42, 50 processed food consumption in, 10 United States Food Administration (USFA), 23 yogurt consumption in, 105, 112
230 INDEX Vatralski, Stoian, 63 Vavilov, Nikolai, 27-28, 39, 124 Väzov, Ivan, 59-61, 148-50, 155, 168 veal, 58, 76-77, 110. See also meat vegetables Asen Zlatarov's advocacy of, 27, 123-25, 127 Bulgarian Communist Party control of, 15 Bulgarian Vegetarian Union, 64-65 digestive properties of, 124 as disease antidote, 115-16, 123, 126 ethical vegetarianism, 61-67 in food science, 123 Leo Tolstoy’s advocacy of, 61-67 Liudmila Zhivkova's advocacy of, 54, 79-82 nutritional benefits of, 9, 45, 115-17, 122-28, 132-33 peasant cultivation of, 55 pickling (turshu), 114, 117, 120, 134, 139 preservation techniques, 120, 126,130, 134, 139-42 See ako peppers; tomatoes vegetarianism, 28-29, 45, 53-55, 61, 63, 66-67, 79-84, 98-99, 125, 128, 174-77 Vegetarianski pregled (Vegetarian review), 28-29, 64-65 Vestnik na zhenata (Journal for women), 98, 124 vinegar, 90, 99-100, 105, 117, 135 Vinempex, 161 Vinprom, 160-61, 163 vitamins В vitamins, 54, 116 bread as source of, 66 Bulgarian deficiencies of, 26-27, 66, 124 C vitamins, 115-16, 132, 134 D vitamins, 115-16 daily requirements of, 9, 67-68, 116, 124, 144, 158, 175 as global focus, 8-9 meat as source of, 8-9, 54, 68 milk as source of, 98 peppers as source of, 115-16,124-25, 127, 134,144 tomatoes as source of, 115-16, 124-25, 127, 132, 134, 144 yogurt as source of, 86 Vlaikov, Todor, 64 Volga River, 65 Von Bremzen, Anya, 10 Vuzrazhdane (Revival), 65 watermelons, 143 West Germany, 134, 137 wheat, 3, 5, 9, 15-16, 23, 27, 30-32, 36-38, 41-44. See also bread White Brotherhood, 29, 63, 65, 67, 80-81, 83, 157-58, 170 White or Black Bread, 31
Williams, Howard, 61 Wilson, Woodrow, 23 wine biochemical effects of, 147-48, 158-59, 177 Bulgarian Communist Party (BCP) opposition to, 157-60, 167, 169, 172 as church revenue source, 150 consumption patterns, 147-48, 150, 155-56, 161-63, 167, 173-74 culinary heritage, 7 as dietary staple, 150, 158 exports of, 147-48, 160-62, 170-71, 176 fasting, 150 food pairing, 16,157 in food science, 160, 165 fortifying qualities of, 150, 158,165, 171 Kniga za vinato (The book of wine), 146, 165-67 local varietals, 161-62, 164-66 microorganisms, role of, 100, 162, 165 and national identity, 164-67, 171-72,176 Ottoman consumption of, 149,169 phylloxera, 122, 150 production patterns, 7-8, 146, 150-51, 156, 160-65, 169-71 Protestant opposition to, 151-55, 157-58 socialist emphasis on, 147, 158,160, 163-64, 167 technological advancements, 161-62 and temperance efforts, 147, 149,151-60, 167-72, 174-77 Thracian production of, 7-8, 146, 151, 164-65, 169-70 Vinempex, 161 Vinprom, 160-61, 163 wine competitions, 162-63 wine houses (mekhani), 157 Woman's Christian Temperance Union (WCTU), 154 women's revolts, 13-14, 18, 22-23 Wonder bread, 42, 50 World Health Organization, 9 Yasna Polyana, 64, 67 yeast, 17-18
INDEX yogurt airan, 109 Bacillus Bulgariens bacteria, 86-89, 99,101, 105, 111, 113 Bułgarska kiselo mliako (Bulgarian yogurt), 100 Chobani, 112 consumption patterns, 86, 91, 98-109, 112, 173-74 Danone/Dannon, 91, 105,111-12 Eurasian yogurt belt, 86, 91, 113 Greek yogurt, 112 Ilya Mechnikov's advocacy of, 85-91, 97, 99—101, 103, 105-6, 109, 111, 113 as mineral source, 86 and national identity, 2, 86-87, 92, 97, 100-102, 106-13 origins of, 87-88, 91—92, 96-97 probiotic properties of, 85-90, 97, 99-100, 105-9, 112-13 as protein source, 86, 97-98, 108-9, 112 Serdika dairy, 103 231 socialist emphasis on, 86, 102-3, 106, 109 Streptococcus thermophilus bacteria, 99, 111 tarator, 98-99, 108-9, 111 technological advancements, 99, 102-5 Thracian connections, 92, 110 US consumption of, 105, 112 as vitamin source, 86 yogurt museum, 179 Yoplait, 106, 112 See also milk Yoplait, 106,112 Yugoslavia, 32, 35, 43, 110, 136 Zaharieva, Virginia, 138-39, 143 Zhenata dnes (Woman today), 142 Zhivkov, Todor, 45-46, 51-52, 79, 106, 130, 135, 161, 170, 177 Zhivkova, Liudmila, 45-46, 54, 79-82, 170, 177 Zlatarov, Asen, 26-30, 39, 42, 66-68, 72, 82, 98, 123-25, 127-29 Zornitsa, 153 Bayerisch® StaatsWbłloihek München |
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| any_adam_object_boolean | 1 |
| author | Neuburger, Mary 1966- |
| author_GND | (DE-588)136222021 |
| author_facet | Neuburger, Mary 1966- |
| author_role | aut |
| author_sort | Neuburger, Mary 1966- |
| author_variant | m n mn |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV048458988 |
| classification_rvk | KY 3015 LC 17295 |
| contents | By Bread Alone? : Hunger, Abundance, and the Politics of Grain -- Vegetarian Visions and Meatopias : Morality, Pleasure, and the Power of Protein -- Sour Milk : Long Life, the Future, and the Gut -- "Ripe" Communism : An Ode to the Bulgarian Tomato and Pepper -- Wine and Dine : Reds, Whites, and the Pursuit of Bacchus |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)1350776681 (DE-599)BVBBV048458988 |
| discipline | Slavistik Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
| discipline_str_mv | Slavistik Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
| era | Geschichte 1900-2000 gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 1900-2000 |
| format | Book |
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| geographic | Bulgarien (DE-588)4008866-2 gnd |
| geographic_facet | Bulgarien |
| id | DE-604.BV048458988 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| index_date | 2024-07-03T20:32:53Z |
| indexdate | 2024-08-10T01:13:52Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9781501762581 9781501762499 |
| language | English |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-033837031 |
| oclc_num | 1350776681 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | DE-12 DE-11 |
| owner_facet | DE-12 DE-11 |
| physical | x, 231 Seiten Illustrationen |
| psigel | BSB_NED_20230201 |
| publishDate | 2022 |
| publishDateSearch | 2022 |
| publishDateSort | 2022 |
| publisher | Cornell University Press |
| record_format | marc |
| spelling | Neuburger, Mary 1966- Verfasser (DE-588)136222021 aut Ingredients of change the history and culture of food in modern Bulgaria Mary C. Neuburger Ithaca ; London Cornell University Press 2022 x, 231 Seiten Illustrationen txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Literaturverzeichnis Seite 203-222 By Bread Alone? : Hunger, Abundance, and the Politics of Grain -- Vegetarian Visions and Meatopias : Morality, Pleasure, and the Power of Protein -- Sour Milk : Long Life, the Future, and the Gut -- "Ripe" Communism : An Ode to the Bulgarian Tomato and Pepper -- Wine and Dine : Reds, Whites, and the Pursuit of Bacchus "This book explores the transformation of foodways in modern Bulgaria, through focused chapters on bread, meat, milk, vegetables, and wine. Such ingredients--as the Bulgarian diet itself--changed radically in form and substance in the shadow of changing global and local narratives, practices, and possibilities" Geschichte 1900-2000 gnd rswk-swf Kulturwandel (DE-588)4033596-3 gnd rswk-swf Lebensmittel (DE-588)4034870-2 gnd rswk-swf Essgewohnheit (DE-588)4139275-9 gnd rswk-swf Bulgarien (DE-588)4008866-2 gnd rswk-swf Food habits / Bulgaria / History Food / Bulgaria / History Habitudes alimentaires / Bulgarie / Histoire Aliments / Bulgarie / Histoire Food Food habits Bulgaria History Bulgarien (DE-588)4008866-2 g Lebensmittel (DE-588)4034870-2 s Essgewohnheit (DE-588)4139275-9 s Kulturwandel (DE-588)4033596-3 s Geschichte 1900-2000 z DE-604 Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe, PDF 978-1-5017-6251-2 Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe, ebook 978-1-5017-6250-5 Digitalisierung BSB München - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033837031&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis Digitalisierung BSB München - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033837031&sequence=000003&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Literaturverzeichnis Digitalisierung BSB München - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033837031&sequence=000005&line_number=0003&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Register // Gemischte Register |
| spellingShingle | Neuburger, Mary 1966- Ingredients of change the history and culture of food in modern Bulgaria By Bread Alone? : Hunger, Abundance, and the Politics of Grain -- Vegetarian Visions and Meatopias : Morality, Pleasure, and the Power of Protein -- Sour Milk : Long Life, the Future, and the Gut -- "Ripe" Communism : An Ode to the Bulgarian Tomato and Pepper -- Wine and Dine : Reds, Whites, and the Pursuit of Bacchus Kulturwandel (DE-588)4033596-3 gnd Lebensmittel (DE-588)4034870-2 gnd Essgewohnheit (DE-588)4139275-9 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4033596-3 (DE-588)4034870-2 (DE-588)4139275-9 (DE-588)4008866-2 |
| title | Ingredients of change the history and culture of food in modern Bulgaria |
| title_auth | Ingredients of change the history and culture of food in modern Bulgaria |
| title_exact_search | Ingredients of change the history and culture of food in modern Bulgaria |
| title_exact_search_txtP | Ingredients of change the history and culture of food in modern Bulgaria |
| title_full | Ingredients of change the history and culture of food in modern Bulgaria Mary C. Neuburger |
| title_fullStr | Ingredients of change the history and culture of food in modern Bulgaria Mary C. Neuburger |
| title_full_unstemmed | Ingredients of change the history and culture of food in modern Bulgaria Mary C. Neuburger |
| title_short | Ingredients of change |
| title_sort | ingredients of change the history and culture of food in modern bulgaria |
| title_sub | the history and culture of food in modern Bulgaria |
| topic | Kulturwandel (DE-588)4033596-3 gnd Lebensmittel (DE-588)4034870-2 gnd Essgewohnheit (DE-588)4139275-9 gnd |
| topic_facet | Kulturwandel Lebensmittel Essgewohnheit Bulgarien |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033837031&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033837031&sequence=000003&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033837031&sequence=000005&line_number=0003&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
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