Fashion and cultural studies:
"Offers a way of understanding why people dress the way they do and what meanings we ascribe to particular fashion styles. Designed to provide a theoretical introduction to fashion and style to meet the needs of both fashion and cultural studies students"
Gespeichert in:
| Hauptverfasser: | , |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
London ; New York ; Oxford ; New Delih ; Sydney
Bloomsbury Visual Arts
2021
|
| Ausgabe: | Second edition |
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis Klappentext |
| Zusammenfassung: | "Offers a way of understanding why people dress the way they do and what meanings we ascribe to particular fashion styles. Designed to provide a theoretical introduction to fashion and style to meet the needs of both fashion and cultural studies students" |
| Beschreibung: | Includes bibliographical references and index |
| Beschreibung: | xvii, 266 Seiten Illustrationen |
| ISBN: | 9781350104686 9781350104679 |
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| 505 | 8 | |a Fashion studies and cultural studies -- Intersectional, transnational fashion subjects -- Fashioning the national subject -- Racial rearticulations and ethnicities -- Religion, fashion, and spirituality -- Class matters, fashion matters -- Gendering fashion, fashioning gender : beyond binaries -- Sexual subjectivities and style-fashion-dress -- Dressed embodiment -- Bodies in motion through time and space | |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
| _version_ | 1804183591242956800 |
|---|---|
| adam_text | CONTENTS List of Plates List of Figures Acknowledgments ix xi xiii 1 Fashion Studies andCultural Studies Articulation Style-Fashion-Dress The Fields of Fashion Studiesand Cultural Studies Fashion Studies Cultural Studies Conceptualizing Culture and Fashion Circuit of Style-Fashion-Dress Model Production Consumption Distribution Subject Formation Regulation 1 6 8 9 10 14 16 17 19 22 24 26 29 2 Intersectional, Transnational Fashion Subjects 31 Assumption 1: Structure-Agency Dynamics Include Processes of Persuasion, Consent, and Resistance 33 Assumption 2: Subject Formation through Style-Fashion-Dress Is a Process of Navigating Intersectionalities 34 Assumption 3: Structures of Feeling—Expressed through Subject Formation and the Fashion Process Alike—Articulate Between Everyday Life and Culture through the Circuit of Style-Fashion-Dress 38 Ambiguity 39 Cultural Ambivalence 40 Cultural Anxiety 41 Assumption 4: The Field of Critical Fashion Studies Needs to Move from Identity Nots to Identity (K)nots 42 Assumption 5: Fashion Is Transnational—Not Merely Western or “Euromodern” 43
Contents Assumption 6: The Process of Negotiating Ambiguity Is Not a Level Playing Field, and It Is a Material Process—Especially in a Transnational Context 45 3 Fashioning the National Subject Nation Ψ Essence Nation as Different Than: Representing the Other Folk Costume, National Dress, and Fashion Working the Hyphen: Nation-State and Style-Fashion-Dress French Revolution Chinese Cultural Revolution (and Beyond) From European Expansion to Globalization Decolonizing Fashion: Beyond the Metaphor Globalization Intersectionalities and Entanglements 51 51 53 54 56 56 59 61 63 66 69 4 Racial Rearticulations and Ethnicities Race and Ethnicity: Sliding Signifiers Racial and Ethnic Rearticulations Color Hair Ethnic Rearticulations: Belongings-in-Difference Sliding into Appropriation, Sliding into Religion 73 74 77 79 82 86 90 5 Religion, Fashion, and Spirituality Subject Formation Spirituality, Subjectivity, and Materiality Modesty Piety, Orthodoxy, Religiosity Regulation State Alignment with Religion Freedom from Religion Freedom of Religion (Religious Freedom) Production, Distribution, and Consumption The Jewish Diaspora and the Textile, Clothing, and Retail Industries The Globalization of Muslim Fashion 95 99 101 103 106 107 108 108 110 110 111 113 6 Class Matters, Fashion Matters Conceptualizing Class Caste Systems Sumptuary Laws, Materials, and the “Natural” Order Class, Intersectionalities, and Industrial Capitalism From Textile to Apparel Production: At Home, in the Factory, and in Protest Class and Fast Fashion 117 119 121 122 124 128 133 vi
Contents Metaphors of Class Structure and Change: The Flows of Fashion Status Claims and Status Demurrals 133 138 7 Gendering Fashion, Fashioning Gender: Beyond Binaries Soft Assemblages Marking, Unmarking, and Remarking Gender Sex, Gender, and Style-Fashion-Dress: Feminist Deconstructions Theorizing the Body and Style-Fashion-Dress Transgender Studies through Bodies and Style-Fashion-Dress Menswear Out of the Academic Closet Multiple Masculinities Zoot Suit La SAPE in Congo US National Survey of Male Intersectionalities 141 145 145 147 149 151 155 156 157 159 160 8 Sexual Subjectivities and Style-Fashion-Dress Sexual Subjectivities Binary “Beginnings” and Reversals Homophobic Discourses On the Protracted Coming Out of Heterosexuality 1960s and 1970s: Social Movements and Sexual Fashions 1980s and Beyond: Queering Fashion Gazing Subjects and Positionalities Sexuality through Intersectionalities 165 167 169 170 176 176 180 184 186 9 Dressed Embodiment From Phenomenology to Dressed Embodiment Abstracting the Body and Representing Embodiment Anthropometries and Sizing Stigmatizing and Celebrating Fat Bodies Sizeism and the Fashion Industry Flaunting Fat Dis/abled Bodies Athletics and Bodily Exceptionalism Addressing Ableism Disabling Environments and Style-Fashion-Dress Fashioning Disability Concealment Diversion and Reframing Modifying and Making Compensation 189 190 192 193 194 196 198 200 200 202 203 204 205 205 206 206 vii
Contents Social Inclusion Social Uniqueness Embodied Subjectivities 10 Bodies in Motion through Time and Space Time and Space (and Place) Age/Generation and Place Fashions Way with Time in Space: Spatiotemporalities Industrial Time Anti-/Nonlinear Time and Space Nostalgia Time-Space Compression and ‘ Speed-Space Uchronic Temporality and Utopian Spaces Closing/Opening Thoughts References Index viii 206 207 209 211 211 213 218 218 221 221 222 226 228 231 255
Bridging theory and practice within fashion studies and feminist cultural studies, this text draws upon a wide range of cross-cultural case studies to explore how race, ethnicity, sexuality, class, gender, and other identities intersect and are produced through embodied fashion. Kaiser and Green interrogate the complex entanglements among subject formation, consumption, production, distribution, and regulation within and through fashion. This revised edition includes updated case studies and two additional chapters. The first new chapter explores religion, spirituality, and faith in relation to style, fashion, and dress; the second offers a critique of beauty and considers dressed embodiment inclusive of diverse sizes, shapes, and dis/abilities.
|
| adam_txt |
CONTENTS List of Plates List of Figures Acknowledgments ix xi xiii 1 Fashion Studies andCultural Studies Articulation Style-Fashion-Dress The Fields of Fashion Studiesand Cultural Studies Fashion Studies Cultural Studies Conceptualizing Culture and Fashion Circuit of Style-Fashion-Dress Model Production Consumption Distribution Subject Formation Regulation 1 6 8 9 10 14 16 17 19 22 24 26 29 2 Intersectional, Transnational Fashion Subjects 31 Assumption 1: Structure-Agency Dynamics Include Processes of Persuasion, Consent, and Resistance 33 Assumption 2: Subject Formation through Style-Fashion-Dress Is a Process of Navigating Intersectionalities 34 Assumption 3: Structures of Feeling—Expressed through Subject Formation and the Fashion Process Alike—Articulate Between Everyday Life and Culture through the Circuit of Style-Fashion-Dress 38 Ambiguity 39 Cultural Ambivalence 40 Cultural Anxiety 41 Assumption 4: The Field of Critical Fashion Studies Needs to Move from Identity Nots to Identity (K)nots 42 Assumption 5: Fashion Is Transnational—Not Merely Western or “Euromodern” 43
Contents Assumption 6: The Process of Negotiating Ambiguity Is Not a Level Playing Field, and It Is a Material Process—Especially in a Transnational Context 45 3 Fashioning the National Subject Nation Ψ Essence Nation as Different Than: Representing the Other Folk Costume, National Dress, and Fashion Working the Hyphen: Nation-State and Style-Fashion-Dress French Revolution Chinese Cultural Revolution (and Beyond) From European Expansion to Globalization Decolonizing Fashion: Beyond the Metaphor Globalization Intersectionalities and Entanglements 51 51 53 54 56 56 59 61 63 66 69 4 Racial Rearticulations and Ethnicities Race and Ethnicity: Sliding Signifiers Racial and Ethnic Rearticulations Color Hair Ethnic Rearticulations: Belongings-in-Difference Sliding into Appropriation, Sliding into Religion 73 74 77 79 82 86 90 5 Religion, Fashion, and Spirituality Subject Formation Spirituality, Subjectivity, and Materiality Modesty Piety, Orthodoxy, Religiosity Regulation State Alignment with Religion Freedom from Religion Freedom of Religion (Religious Freedom) Production, Distribution, and Consumption The Jewish Diaspora and the Textile, Clothing, and Retail Industries The Globalization of Muslim Fashion 95 99 101 103 106 107 108 108 110 110 111 113 6 Class Matters, Fashion Matters Conceptualizing Class Caste Systems Sumptuary Laws, Materials, and the “Natural” Order Class, Intersectionalities, and Industrial Capitalism From Textile to Apparel Production: At Home, in the Factory, and in Protest Class and Fast Fashion 117 119 121 122 124 128 133 vi
Contents Metaphors of Class Structure and Change: The Flows of Fashion Status Claims and Status Demurrals 133 138 7 Gendering Fashion, Fashioning Gender: Beyond Binaries Soft Assemblages Marking, Unmarking, and Remarking Gender Sex, Gender, and Style-Fashion-Dress: Feminist Deconstructions Theorizing the Body and Style-Fashion-Dress Transgender Studies through Bodies and Style-Fashion-Dress Menswear Out of the Academic Closet Multiple Masculinities Zoot Suit La SAPE in Congo US National Survey of Male Intersectionalities 141 145 145 147 149 151 155 156 157 159 160 8 Sexual Subjectivities and Style-Fashion-Dress Sexual Subjectivities Binary “Beginnings” and Reversals Homophobic Discourses On the Protracted Coming Out of Heterosexuality 1960s and 1970s: Social Movements and Sexual Fashions 1980s and Beyond: Queering Fashion Gazing Subjects and Positionalities Sexuality through Intersectionalities 165 167 169 170 176 176 180 184 186 9 Dressed Embodiment From Phenomenology to Dressed Embodiment Abstracting the Body and Representing Embodiment Anthropometries and Sizing Stigmatizing and Celebrating Fat Bodies Sizeism and the Fashion Industry Flaunting Fat Dis/abled Bodies Athletics and Bodily Exceptionalism Addressing Ableism Disabling Environments and Style-Fashion-Dress Fashioning Disability Concealment Diversion and Reframing Modifying and Making Compensation 189 190 192 193 194 196 198 200 200 202 203 204 205 205 206 206 vii
Contents Social Inclusion Social Uniqueness Embodied Subjectivities 10 Bodies in Motion through Time and Space Time and Space (and Place) Age/Generation and Place Fashions Way with Time in Space: Spatiotemporalities Industrial Time Anti-/Nonlinear Time and Space Nostalgia Time-Space Compression and ‘ Speed-Space Uchronic Temporality and Utopian Spaces Closing/Opening Thoughts References Index viii 206 207 209 211 211 213 218 218 221 221 222 226 228 231 255
Bridging theory and practice within fashion studies and feminist cultural studies, this text draws upon a wide range of cross-cultural case studies to explore how race, ethnicity, sexuality, class, gender, and other identities intersect and are produced through embodied fashion. Kaiser and Green interrogate the complex entanglements among subject formation, consumption, production, distribution, and regulation within and through fashion. This revised edition includes updated case studies and two additional chapters. The first new chapter explores religion, spirituality, and faith in relation to style, fashion, and dress; the second offers a critique of "beauty" and considers dressed embodiment inclusive of diverse sizes, shapes, and dis/abilities. |
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| author | Kaiser, Susan B. Green, Denise 1946- |
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| callnumber-subject | GT - Manners and Customs |
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| contents | Fashion studies and cultural studies -- Intersectional, transnational fashion subjects -- Fashioning the national subject -- Racial rearticulations and ethnicities -- Religion, fashion, and spirituality -- Class matters, fashion matters -- Gendering fashion, fashioning gender : beyond binaries -- Sexual subjectivities and style-fashion-dress -- Dressed embodiment -- Bodies in motion through time and space |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)1285130322 (DE-599)KXP1750510553 |
| dewey-full | 391 |
| dewey-hundreds | 300 - Social sciences |
| dewey-ones | 391 - Costume and personal appearance |
| dewey-raw | 391 |
| dewey-search | 391 |
| dewey-sort | 3391 |
| dewey-tens | 390 - Customs, etiquette, folklore |
| discipline | Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
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| edition | Second edition |
| era | Geschichte gnd |
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| index_date | 2024-07-03T19:35:48Z |
| indexdate | 2024-07-10T09:25:53Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9781350104686 9781350104679 |
| language | English |
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| publisher | Bloomsbury Visual Arts |
| record_format | marc |
| spelling | Kaiser, Susan B. Verfasser (DE-588)17073658X aut Fashion and cultural studies Susan B. Kaiser and Denise Nicole Green Second edition London ; New York ; Oxford ; New Delih ; Sydney Bloomsbury Visual Arts 2021 xvii, 266 Seiten Illustrationen txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Includes bibliographical references and index Fashion studies and cultural studies -- Intersectional, transnational fashion subjects -- Fashioning the national subject -- Racial rearticulations and ethnicities -- Religion, fashion, and spirituality -- Class matters, fashion matters -- Gendering fashion, fashioning gender : beyond binaries -- Sexual subjectivities and style-fashion-dress -- Dressed embodiment -- Bodies in motion through time and space "Offers a way of understanding why people dress the way they do and what meanings we ascribe to particular fashion styles. Designed to provide a theoretical introduction to fashion and style to meet the needs of both fashion and cultural studies students" Geschichte gnd rswk-swf Kultur (DE-588)4125698-0 gnd rswk-swf Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd rswk-swf Gesellschaft (DE-588)4020588-5 gnd rswk-swf Fashion / Social aspects Costume / Social aspects Fashion Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 s Kultur (DE-588)4125698-0 s Gesellschaft (DE-588)4020588-5 s Geschichte z DE-604 Green, Denise 1946- Verfasser (DE-588)12173370X aut Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe, PDF 978-1-3501-0470-9 Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe 978-1-3501-0469-3 Digitalisierung UB Augsburg - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033325119&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis Digitalisierung UB Augsburg - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033325119&sequence=000003&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Klappentext |
| spellingShingle | Kaiser, Susan B. Green, Denise 1946- Fashion and cultural studies Fashion studies and cultural studies -- Intersectional, transnational fashion subjects -- Fashioning the national subject -- Racial rearticulations and ethnicities -- Religion, fashion, and spirituality -- Class matters, fashion matters -- Gendering fashion, fashioning gender : beyond binaries -- Sexual subjectivities and style-fashion-dress -- Dressed embodiment -- Bodies in motion through time and space Kultur (DE-588)4125698-0 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Gesellschaft (DE-588)4020588-5 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4125698-0 (DE-588)4039792-0 (DE-588)4020588-5 |
| title | Fashion and cultural studies |
| title_auth | Fashion and cultural studies |
| title_exact_search | Fashion and cultural studies |
| title_exact_search_txtP | Fashion and cultural studies |
| title_full | Fashion and cultural studies Susan B. Kaiser and Denise Nicole Green |
| title_fullStr | Fashion and cultural studies Susan B. Kaiser and Denise Nicole Green |
| title_full_unstemmed | Fashion and cultural studies Susan B. Kaiser and Denise Nicole Green |
| title_short | Fashion and cultural studies |
| title_sort | fashion and cultural studies |
| topic | Kultur (DE-588)4125698-0 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Gesellschaft (DE-588)4020588-5 gnd |
| topic_facet | Kultur Mode Gesellschaft |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033325119&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033325119&sequence=000003&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT kaisersusanb fashionandculturalstudies AT greendenise fashionandculturalstudies |