Black earth, white bread: a technopolitical history of Russian agriculture and food
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[2022]
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| Beschreibung: | xvii, 309 Seiten Illustrationen, Diagramme, Karten |
| ISBN: | 9780299335403 9780299335441 |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
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| adam_text | CONTENTS List of Illustrations ix Acknowledgments xiii Note on Transliteration, Translation, andPlace-Names xvii Introduction: Setting the Table 3 i Governance; or, How to Solve the GrainProblem 38 2 Production 84 3 Consumption; or, Perestroika of theQuotidian 136 4 Nature 177 Conclusion: Vulnerabilities 212 Notes 227 Bibliography 269 Index 291
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INDEX Page numbers followed by letters f, m, and t refer to figures, maps, and tables, respectively. access to food: and consumption pat terns, 36; geographical variation in, 164,165-66,168; market liberalization and changes in, 167—70; post-Soviet inequalities in, 33-34,139, 141,176; Soviet-era inequalities in, 33,139-40, 163—67,164,165,166; strategies for obtaining, 166—67 African Swine Fever (ASF): household farms targeted for, 84, 131; vulnerabil ity of food production to, 30, 84, 210 agency: in agrifood systems, technopolit ical lens on, 24-27, 37, 225; uninten tional consequences of, 23—24, 26—28 Agricultural Research Institute of the Non-Chernozem Zone (Nemchinovka), 191,194; seed varieties devel oped and sold by, 194,195t Agricultural Research Institute of the Southeast (Saratov Institute), 191 agriculture: and human-nature nexus, 178; and political power/legitimacy, 5,13, 31, 39, 83,135; political science literature on, 37, 213. See abo under change agriculture, Russian: major episodes of change in, 4—5, 29, 214; as political and technological project, 13,17, 39; precision, 120; under Putin, 4, 5,12, 13, 42-43, 69-83,198; during World War I, 45-46 agriculture, Soviet: Bolshevik govern ment and, 46-49, 55; under Brezhnev, 52-54, 58, 59, 60, 63; under Gorba chev, 59-60; under Khrushchev, 51-52, 56-58, 59, 60, 62-63, 97-98։ shortages and inefficiencies plaguing, it, 28, 36, 45, 163, 214; under Stalin, 49-52, 55—56, 60, 96—97; successes of, 28, 44-45; transformation in 1990s, 4-5, 29; two forms of production in, 85-86; US agriculture compared to, 31, 214; under
Yeltsin, 66-69 agrochemicals: environmental costs of, 214, 223; use in Brezhnev era, 53, 54, 222; use in post-Soviet era, 120-23, 223 agroholdings, 78г, II2; activities by region, 115, n6w, 117222; as agents of change, 42-43, 215; and breeding strategies, 124—25, 181, 203—5; capital investments by, ш-12, ІІ2Г, 119,120; collective farms compared to, 29, 77; and confinement farming practices, 291
292 Index agroholdings (continued) 198, 208; corporate social responsi bility programs of, 128-29, 44 215 í as dominant actors in Russian agricul ture, 29, 35, 215; employment levels at, 12, 30,128,129^ and food embargo, 82; and global integration, 89, 91, 123, 135; government’s political goals and, 82,118, 208, 224; and grain surpluses, 12, 212; and human-nature nexus, changes in, 89, 211; joint ventures with foreign companies, 123; land acquisition by, 12, 77-79, 78í, 115,119; and livestock production, 115,126, 198, 203-5; policies supporting growth of, 72-76, 78-79, 81-82; in primary production, 114; and productivity, increase in, 125—27, 126Ѓ; Putins regime and, 5, 29, 35, 42-43, 72-76, 82, 83, 85,112,118-19,124 I35 215; regional administrations and, 78—79; rise of, 82, 89, in—14; and rural resi dents, relationship with, 127—28; and rural transformation, 5, 78-79, ill; state-owned corporations, 115—18; and subsistence farming, sidelining of, 113, 135; and technological modernization, 85, 89, 91,112,119,120-24, 121Л 122»։, 135; types of, 113-18; US corporate lobbies compared to, 81; Yeltsin-era privatization and, 77 Agrokultura, 78 г, 114 agro-technopolitics, 8; and changes in diet, 27, 36,137-38, 221; and flow of state-controlled resources, 43; and four realms of food systems, 17, 24. See ako technopolitics Allen, Richard, 90 Allina-Pisano, Jessica, 67,109 All-Russian Poultry Science Research and Technology Institute (VNITIP), 207; logo of, 13 allure of food, 170-76; authentically Russian, 172,173-74; and consump tion patterns, 36; local/homemade, 173,175; nostalgia
for Soviet-era prod ucts and, 36,175-76; processed, 142; technopolitics and, 175; Western, 172 Altai Agricultural Research Institute, seed varieties developed and sold by, 195г Anderson, Joseph, 187 Anna Karenina (Tolstoy), 170 Aral Sea basin, demise of, 28, 58, 60,186 Argentina, food imports from, 64,162 Asfivirus, 30, 84. See ako African Swine Fever (ASF) Askaniia Nova (nature preserve), 198-99 availability of food: and consumption patterns, 36,146-47; crisis of 1991-92 and, 66, 68—69; Putin regime and, 149-50,163,170,176, 212-13; Sovietera shortages, li, 28, 36,144,146-47, 152,153, 214 Aviagen, 206, 207 Avian flu: confinement farming practices and threat of, 208-9; household farms targeted for, 131; vulnerability of food production to, 30, 210 Babaev, Igor, 115 banks, subsidized credits by, 75, 76 barley, 26, 93,125 Barnes, Andrew, 67 Barsukova, Svedana, 172,173 Baskin-Robbins, 159,160 Bates, Robert, 21 Bayer, 120 beef: food embargo of 2015 and, 132, 133-34; imports in post-Soviet era, 162; Putin-era subsidies to producers of, 76; in Soviet diet, 151; suggested substitutes for, Soviet planners and, 152. See ako livestock production Belarus: challenges of planned agricul ture in, 99-100; foods imported from, 80,133,162; pork exports to, 133; seasonal migrant labor from, 128 Belgorod, agroholdings in, 78 Beriozka stores, 166—67
Index Berliner, Joseph, 90, 91 Bernstein, Henry, 20 biosecurity, threats to, 208-9 Black Earth Farming, 114 Black Earth region (Chernozem), 5; agroholdings’ land ownership in, 12, 77,115, 128; collectivization and loss of livestock in, 92; grains grown in, 93; subsistence farming in, 107 black markets, in Soviet era, 164 “black repartition,” 55 black rye bread, white bread replacing, 26,138 Blue Noses Art Collective, 173 Bolshevik government: agricultural policies of, 46—49, 55; and communal dining halls, 154; grain problem and, 35, 46, 47-49; land use policies of, 55, 91; political goals for agriculture under, 39; and rural modernization, 38, 39-40 Bolshevik Revolution: grain shortage and promise of bread, 5, 9—10,14, 16—17, 4G 212; Russian grain exports during, 62; and transformation of existing order and diet, 6, 55,136, 142-43 Book of Tasty and Healthy Food (Kniga о vkusnoi i zdorovoi pishche), 141-42, 161,171 Brain, Stephen, 182 Braudel, Fernand, 21 Brazil, food imports from, no, 133, 162 bread: Bolshevik Revolution and prom ise of, 5, 9-10,14,16-17, 46, 212; centrality to Russian diet and cultural identity, 3; cost in Soviet era, 163; Leningrad bakeries and, 102; as marker of diet changes, 136-37; material reality and symbolic value of, 9,17; rising prices of, Yeltsin’s reforms and, 3-4,168; Soviet produc tion and, 10; state monopoly on pro duction of, 68; wasteful use in Soviet 2-93 era, 222; white, black rye bread replaced with, 26,138; white, symbolic value of, 17 bread factories {khlebozavody)·. as essen tial manifestation of Soviet socialism, 14,1$/; excluded
from privatization of 1990S, 3; Gorky’s visit to, 14; Putin’s visit to, 16,l6f breeding, plant and animal: agrohold ings and, 125,181, 203-4; as artificial selection, 186; climate change and, 194-95; diversity as strategy in, 199— 200, 201, 203; fimdamental rationales for, 179; global giants and, 186; human-nature nexus and, 179; hybrid seed technology and, 189; investment in, in Brezhnev era, 53; local context and, 179-80,184, 200, 202; political projects and, 187; in post-Soviet era, 180,193-98, 203-7; in Soviet era, 179-80,187-93,198-203; vernalization (iarovisatsHa) theory of, 188; vulnera bilities associated with, 30,186, 207-11 Breitovskaya pig breed, 201-2, 202Г, 204, 205 Brezhnev, Leonid: agricultural imports under, 27, 63-64,103; agricultural policies under, 52-54, 58, 59, 60, 63-64; chemicalization of agriculture under, 103,134, 222; fishing fleet expansion under, 26,138; promise of more meat, 17,103; rural moderniza tion under, 39, 42; subsistence farm ing under, 59 broilers, high-efficiency: in post-Soviet era, 26, 205, 206-7; *n Soviet era, 63, 203 Bruno, Andy, 181,182-83 Bryansk, agroholdings in, 78 Buck-Morss, Susan, 21-22 Bukharin, Nikolai, 38, 46, 48 Butz, Earl, 63 byt. See everyday life; transformation of everyday life
294 Index cabbage: as authentically Russian food, 173; collective sector production and, 99; fermented (kvashenaia kapusta), 147; in Russian diet, 140,143,147,151, IJ5.170 cafés: in post-Soviet era, 159; in Soviet era, 154,156,157/ cafeterias, Soviet-era, 154—55 Caldwell, Melissa, 32,173,174 Cambodia, Soviet aid to, 62, 64 Canada, Russian wheat seeds in, 61,189 canteens (stolovyep. factory, 164; fast-food restaurants compared to, 159; in postSoviet era, 159; in Soviet era, 154—55 capital: availability of, and food sover eignty agenda, 72; lack of, and failure of Yeltsins reforms, 72,109; state and, coproduction in technopolitics, 22-23. See ако investments Cargill, 123,124,127,160, 224 Carter, Jimmy, 64 Caterpillar, 96 cattle, “dual purpose” breeds of, 151. See ако livestock production Caucasus region: agroholdings’ opera tions in, 128; famines in, 50; food consumption in, 166; fruits and veg etables from, 162; subsistence farming in, 107; wheat exports from, 61 Central Asia: agriculture schemes in, environmental consequences of, 28, 58, 60, 98-99, 186; food consumption in, 166; forced settling and collectiv ization of nomadic societies in, 97; seasonal labor from, 120, 128. See ако Kazakhstan; Uzbekistan champagne, industrial production of, 51, 102-3, 49 144 change, 7; agricultural, extant theories of, 17—20, 21; in agrifood systems, broader perspective on, 8, 24, 36, 37, 213; in diet, shifting agro-technopolitics and, 27, 36,137-38, 221; dramatic episodes of, in Russia’s history, 5, 87, 89, 214; food as tool to track, 6, 9; technopolitical lens on, 23, 24, 22526;
unintentional consequences of agency and, 23—24, 26—28; vulnerabili ties as triggers of, 28, 225. See ако rural change; technological change Chayanov, Alexander, 18, 48, 50,131; theory of rural change, 18-19 Chechnya, subsidies to farmers in, 75 Cherkizovo, 115, 215; charitable projects of, 128; demand for feed grain, 126; export markets sought by, 124; favor able regulatory environment and, 74-75; food embargo of 2015 and, 132; land holdings of, 115; and livestock breeding research, 205; pork produc tion by, 84,115; support for govern ment’s agenda, 118 Chernozem. See Black Earth region chicken: “dual purpose” breeds of, 151; on fast-food menus, 160; imports from US, 69,16279; hi post-Soviet diet, 26,153,169; suggested substitutes for, Soviet planners and, 152. See also broilers; poultry production China: agricultural exports to, 114, 124; avian flu in, 208; seasonal labor from, 113 chocolates, industrial production of, 51, 144 CIMMYT germplasm, 193 Civil War: agriculture during, 48, 59; forced requisitions during, 91; grain exports during, 62 Claas, 120,123 climate: and Russian agriculture, 177, 185. See ако drought(s) climate change: and plant breeding strategies, 194—95; response to, 186 Cobb-Van tress, 206, 207; broiler devel oped by, 203 collective dining establishments, Soviet, 154-56. See ако canteens; restaurants collective farms (kolkhozy), 48-49, 92; agroholdings compared to, 29, 77; as backbone of Soviet industrial
Index agriculture, іо, 86; catastrophic begin nings of, 92; commodities produced by, 93, 947Я; consolidation and mod ernization of, 54; expansion under Khrushchev, 97; Gorbachev’s reforms and, 108-10; grain problem and, 212; important role of, 87, 93; laborintensive production practices of, 52, 95 labor shortages affecting, 103— 4; LPKh farms and, 11, 59, 104,106, 127,129; Machine Tractor Stations (MTS) and, 50-51, 56, 57, 96; mecha nization of, 96; political control over, 50-51, 56, 92-93, 98; “price scissor” problem affecting, 68,109; problems plaguing, 68, 87, 99-102, 212; and rural residents, relationship of, 127; and scientists, idealized alliance between, 13, Iзƒ social functions of, 127; and social organization of pro duction, 92-93; after Soviet Unions collapse, її, 119—20; wheat varieties used on, 191; workers at, undocu mented workers in US compared to, 214; Yeltsin’s reforms and breakup of, 66-68,109, no, iiof collectivization, 41, 50, 55-56, 92, 214; grain problem and, 41, 50; human cost of, 10, 28, 35; Khrushchev’s posi tion on, 51; and loss of livestock herds, 85, 92, 96; “middle” producers elimi nated during, 31; and modernization of production, 35; peasant resistance to, 49, 50; and Putin’s reforms, 213; and social organization of production, 92-93; subsistence farming during, 104 combine harvesters: German, exports to Russia, 120; introduction of, and decline in rye cultivation, 26, 97,138 ComEcon, 62 communal apartments, kitchens in, 156, 158/ communal dining, in Soviet era, 154-56 2-95 confinement farming practices, 198, 201, 206, 207;
vulnerabilities associated with, 208—10 consumers: and change in agrifood sys tems, 24, 36, 37, 213, 224-25; rising expectations of, 103 cookbook(s), official Soviet, 141-42,146, 161, 171; portions of meat and fish in, 150 cooking shows, Russian, 160 corn: agroholdings and production of, 114,115; canned, in Stalin era, 51; GMO ban and, 197; imported seeds for, 125,196; Khrushchev’s policies on, 15, 41, 57-58, 63, 98,189; Soviet pro duction of, 93,184, 185; Soviet vs. US yields of, 185; US exports of, 27, 214; vulnerability to pathogenic agents, 184 cotton production, Soviet, 93; irrigation schemes and environmental conse quences of, 28, 58 Crimean annexation, trade regimes after, 80-81 CRISPR-Cas9 technology, as political tool, 8,198 Cronon, William, 19-20, 211 dachas (suburban garden plots), 11,104, 105/ľ See aho LPKh farms; subsistence farming dairy: consumer expectations regarding, 171; factory farms and supply of, 164; fermented milk products, in Russian diet, 32, 33,139,146,147; food embargo of 2015 and, 132,133-34; perishability problem and, 100—102; Putin-era subsidies for production of, 76; reliance on foreign parent stock for, 125; Russian imports of, under Brezhnev, 63, 64; subsistence farming and, 105,107,147. See aho milk; yogurt Danone, 113,168 Demuth, Bathsheba, 182 Dewey, John, 25—26
296 Index diet, Russian: agroholdings and changes in, 89,135; authentic, quest for, 172, 173-74,175; baked goods in, 148; Bolshevik Revolution and transforma tion of, 142-43; bread in, 3,136-37; Brezhnev-era policies and, 26, 103; changes in, shifting agro-technopolitics and, 27, 36,137-38, 221; changing expectations and, 16—17; communal dining and, 154—56; early socialist utopian thinking on, 171; fast-food restaurants and, 32,149,159-60; fer mented milk products in, 32, 33,139, 146,147; fish in, 152-53; food embargo of 2015 and, 132—33; geographical vari ations in, 139,166; homegrown and home-processed foods in, 140,149, 153-56,174; imported vs. domestic food in, 161-62; meat in, 150-53,152Г; pensioners’, 34,168, in postSoviet era, 12, 26, 33,140-41,148-50, 169—70, 221; in prerevolutionary era, 5; processed foods in, 148—50; short ages and, 36,146-47; in Soviet era, 10, 32-33,140,143-44, 220-21; subsis tence agriculture and, 147-48; unequal access to food and, 139,141, 162—70; of urban vs. rural residents, 10,164,165; vegetarian, advocates of, 143,150, 171; Western influences on, 150,172, 219; during World War II, 143 DLF Seeds, 196 Dmitriev, N. K., 199-200 Dow Chemical, 120 drought(s): climate change and, 194; export embargo following, 79; persis tent problem of, 41,177; plant breed ing for resistance to, 184, 189,190,191, 194; US irrigation systems adopted in response to, 53 DuPont, 120 Dürr, Stefan, 74, 82 Eastern European states, foods imported from, 62, 64, 80, 94m, 133,162 eggs: collective farm production of, 93; factory farms and supply of, 164; in fast-food
breakfast sandwiches, 160; genetic research and production of, 203; household farm production of, 105,107t, 108,147; shortages in Soviet era, 107,146 Egypt: Russian wheat exports to, 72; Soviet aid to, 62 EkoNiva, 215; charitable projects of, 128, 134; demand for feed grain, 126; food embargo and growth of, 134; jobs created by, 128; land holdings and main commodities of, 78í; regional administrations’ support for, 79; special relationship with the state, 74, 76, 82 employment, agricultural: agroholdings and decline in, 12, 30,128,129 t, col lective farms and, 52, 95, 95^ 103—4; seasonal migrant, 113, 120,128; in US, 95 214 environmental costs: of fertilizer applica tion, 214, 223; of Soviet agricultural policies, 28, 58, 60,186, 214 Ernst, L. K., 199-200 Eskimo bars, 144. See also ice cream Estonia: fish collective farm in, 101/; meat consumption in, 152 European Union (EUj/Western Europe: ban on imports from, 80-81; food aid to Russia, 66; imperial Russia as breadbasket for, 61; knowledge exchange with, 45. See ako West everyday life (¿yr), Russian: communal eating and, 154-56; post-Soviet, 176; Soviet, shortage economy as hallmark of, 140,146-47; Western influences on, 31-32. See ako transformation of everyday life Exima, 118, 205, 215 exports, Russian: agroholdings and, 124,135; during Bolshevik Revolution, 62; as foreign policy tool, 72; and global integration, 113; impact on
Index countryside, 61-62; in imperial era, 61; infrastructure investments under Putin, 127; in post-Soviet era, 12, 27, 70, 70^ 72, 79, 89,127,127Ą during World War I, 61, 62. See also grain exports; wheat exports famines: in 1920s, 48; in 1940s, 56; forced collectivization and, 50 Far East: agricultural production in, 78; agroholdings’ activities in, 117m; food consumption in, 166; subsistence farming in, 107 fast-food restaurants: arrival of, 149,15960; and revaluation of local food, 161; Russian, branding of, 175—76; and transformation of byt, 32 feed, livestock: imports of, 103; increased demand for, 64, 126; in post-Soviet era, 126, 206; shortages in Soviet era, 200; Soviet vs. US, 185 fertilizers: agroholdings’ use of, 120—23; environmental costs of, 214, 223; use in Brezhnev era, 53, 54, 222; use in post-Soviet era, 223; wasteful use of, 222—23 fish, in Soviet diet, 26, 138,140, 144,145, 151,152-53, 168 fishing industry: food embargo of 2015 and, 133; Soviet, 26, 93,100, ιοί/ Fitzgerald, Deborah, 96 flax, Soviet production of, 93 food: material reality and symbolic properties of, 6, 9; and political power/legitimacy, 5, 6—7; tracking of change through, 6, 9 food consumption: Bolshevik party and, 139; determinants of, 36,138, 147,176; evolution from Soviet to post-Soviet period, 140-41; and national culture, 213; and social status, 33—34, 213. See abo diet food embargo of 2015,12, 80—81; and agricultural production, 112; agrohold ings’ support for, 82; effects of, 132—34; 297 as resistance against Western forces, 17З food fiiturists, 143 food nationalism, 173-74 food
processing: capital investment in 2000s, in, 112/; in post-Soviet era, 113; in Soviet era, 102; and waste/ wastefulness, 221. See abo processed foods food safety standards: impact on house hold farms, 130-31; imported technol ogies and, 123-24; Soviet vs. Western, 123-24 food security: doctrine of, 70-72; imported genetic material and issues of, 208 food sovereignty: meaning in Russian context, 43; Putins agenda of, 42, 43, 69-72, 80, 82; trade policies as tools for, 79 Food Supply Commissariat, 48 food system(s)Zagrifood system(s): agency in, technopolitical lens on, 24—27, 37; change in, broader perspective on, 8, 24, 36, 37, 213; four realms of, 17, 24; modes of production and domestica tion and, 85; politics of, 224-26 food system, Russian: compared to US agrifood system, 30-31, 214-15, 22122; contemporary, 31-32; convergence with Western food system, 12, 31—32; global integration and domestication of, 213, 215-17; global integration of, vulnerabilities associated with, 213, 217-24; international context and changes in, 45; political dimensions of, 5, 6-7; science and changes in, 12-13, in Soviet era, 10—її, 31, 36; waste and wastefulness in, 221—24 Ford, Henry, 96 Ford Motor Company, 96 Fosters, John B., 25 Fox, Coleen, 23 France, agricultural imports from, 162, 196
298 Index Freidberg, Susanne, 23-24 goats, backyard, 107 Friedmann, Harriet, 19 Gorbachev, Mikhail: decentralization fruits: household farms and production of, 147; imports of, in post-Soviet era, under, 42; land use policies under, 59, 60; rural reforms under, 108 162; per-capita consumption of, Gordeev, Alexey, 69, 71, 72, 74, 79, 82 decrease in 1990s, 162; planned econ omy and challenges of production, Gordeev, Nikita, 82 99-100 Fullilove, Courtney, 178-79 Gorky, Maxim, visit to Leningrad bakery, 14 Gossortkommissia, 195 GOST (Soviet-era food safety stan garden plots (usaďby), 54 Gazprom, arable land holdings of, 77 gene-edited crops, 198. See abo CRISPR- Cas9 technology dards), 123 GPS data, use in agriculture, 120 Graham, Loren, 90, 91,188 grain(s): agrochemicals used in produc General Electric, 96 tion of, 120; agroholdings focusing genetically modified organisms (GMOs), on, 114; imports of, under Brezhnev, Russia’s ban on, 187,197,198 genetic diversity: lack of, and vulner ability to viral threats, 30; in Soviet breeding strategies, 199-200, 201, 203 geneticists, Russian, 180,184, 186,187— 88, 190; purges under Stalin, 90,188 genetic resources, foreign, Russian agri cultures dependence on, 125,180-81, 204, 204Г, 206, 208 27, 63—64,103; as most important Soviet commodity, 93; Putin-era policies to encourage production of, 118. See also wheat grain exports: agroholdings and, 135; during Bolshevik Revolution, 62; as foreign policy tool, 72; and global integration, 113; impact on country side, 61-62; under Putin, 12, 27, 70, Georgian cuisine, 172 7oƒ 72, 79,
89,127,127Л See also Germany, trade with, 61,120,125 wheat exports Gessen, Masha, 27,169 global food regimes, 19; technopolitical regimes and, 27 global integration: agroholdings and, 89, 91,123,135; capital investments in Russian agriculture and, 113-14, i22w; grain problem, 35, 39-40; Bolshevik government’s response to, 35, 46, 47-49; collectivization in response to, 41, 50; Khrushchev’s approach to, 51, 57-58; nature and persistence of, 41, collective farms’ inability to grow 47,177—78; New Economic Policy’s failure to solve, 35; Putin’s success in enough feed grains and, 103; and solving, 12, 82—83, 212·—13; social resis domestication, Russia’s simultaneous tance and persistence of, 41, 46-47; moves of, 213, 215-17; post-Soviet, 69, Soviet efforts to solve, 10, 40—42, 113,161—62; seed and animal genetic 47-48, 212; Soviet governments’ inability to solve, 40—41, 212; Stalin’s material and, 125,180—81; Soviet, 64, 61m, 86; technology transfers and, approach to, 41, 50, 83 113; timeline of, 88í; vulnerabilities Granberg, Leo, 68 associated with, 213, 217—24 greens fielen}, household farm produc GMO crops, Russia’s ban on, 187,197, 198 Goatibex, 47 tion of, 147 grocery stores: agroholdings and, 115; changes in post-Soviet era, 36, no,
Index 130,137,140-41,150,160,168,169, 217; imported foods in, 172; ineffi ciencies of planned economy and, 99-100; processed goods in, in 1990s, 149; Soviet-era shortages and, n, 28, 107,144,146-47,152,164-67; special, for Soviet-era political elites, 33,161, 164,166-67 Gronow, Jukka, 102,144, 164 H5N8: vulnerability of food production to, 30. See also Avian flu HACCP (hazard analysis and critical control points) food safety regulations, 123-24 Hale-Dorrell, Aaron, 41,189 Hecht, Gabrielle, 22, 23 Heinzen, James, 39—40 Holodomor, 50 Holquist, Peter, 45 home cooking: in communal kitchens, 156, I58ƒ vs. eating out, 153-56; in post-Soviet era, 160; Soviet govern ments suspicion of, 154 home production of food, nostalgia for, 12, 28,174, 221. See ako subsistence farming human-nature nexus: agriculture and, 178; agroholdings and changes in, 89, 211; and breeding strategies, 179; har monious paradigm of, 182—83; inter dependent vulnerability paradigm of, 37,183-84, 209-10, 211; Promethean paradigm of, 182,183,184; technopo litical lens on, 8-9, 37 Humphrey, Caroline, 34,147,165,167 Hungary, foods imported from, 62, 94z» hunger: market transition of 1991-92 and, 66, 68,168; in prerevolutionary Russia, 5,10, 212. See ako famines Hypor, 205, 206 ice cream, in Soviet era, 144,145/;146, 160 299 imperial Russia: land ownership in, 55; trade policies in, 61 imports: of agro-technologies, 63, 90, 96,102,134; under Brezhnev, 27, 63-64,103; food embargo of 2015 and, 12, 80-81,132,133,162; Food Security Doctrine and limits on, 71-72; under Khrushchev, 63; of processed foods, 148-49;
under Putin, 126; of Western foods, in 197OS and 1980s, 64, 65m; of Western foods, in post-Soviet era, 140, 161-62 India: foods imported from, 161; Soviet aid to, 62, 64 industrial agriculture: and convergence between US and Russian food sys tems, 31, 214; politics of, 224; Soviet, collective farms as backbone of, 10, 86; and waste and wastefhlness, 221; Western, critiques of, 131 inequality, food-related, 32-34, 162—63; global integration and, 217—18; in post-Soviet era, 33-34,141,167-70; in Soviet era, 33,139,163-67 infrastructure, rural: disintegration in post-Soviet era, 68; investments under Putin, 127 investments, in Russian agriculture: agroholdings and, in-12,ii2t; foreign, 113-14, 122m; Putin and, 127 Ioffe, Grigory, її, 109, in, 120 irrigation systems, Soviet: Brezhnev-era policies and, 58; environmental consequences of, 28, 58, 60,186; US technology and, 53 Iskander, Fazil, 47 Jacobs, Adrienne, 171 Jasanoff, Sheila, 13, 22 Jasny, Naum, 93 John Deere, 120 Kakhetinskaya pig breed, 202, 202í kasha, in Russian diet, 33, 140,168,170 Kautsky, Karl, 18
300 Index Kazakhstan: agricultural schemes and environmental consequences in, 58, 60,178; famines in, 50, 56; Virgin Lands campaign in, 57, 58, 97. See also Central Asia Khrushchev, Nikita: agricultural diplo macy with US, 61,189; agricultural policies under, 51-52, 56-58, 59, 60, 62—63, 97-98; breeding strategies under, 189; on collectivization, 51; corn crusade of, 15, 41, 57-58, 63, 98, 189; and crackdown on subsistence farming, 59,106,107; fall from power, 27, 58,135; focus on consumption and byt, 143—44; grain problem and, 51, 57—58; and Nixon, kitchen debate between, 156; and poultry production, 63, 203; rural modernization under, 39, 41, 42, 52, 58, 97-98; Virgin Lands campaign of, 5, 27, 35, 44, 57-58, 97, 134—35; visit to Moskovský State Farm, 52-, 53? Khudokormov, Igor, 114 Kiev cake, 144,161,166 Kirichenko, Fyodor, 177,179 kitchens, in communal apartments, 156, 158/ Kitchen Suprematism, 173 kolkhoz markets (kolkhoznyi rynok), 59-60; closure under Putin, 77 kolkhozy, 48, 92. See aho collective farms Korea: foods from, adoption in Russia, 172; foreign seasonal labor from, 113 Kornai, Janos, 222 Krasnodar Agricultural Research Insti tute, 193, 194; seed varieties developed and sold by, 194,195í Krasnoufimsk Breeding Station, 193 Krymka wheat variety, 184,189 kulaks, targeted under Stalin, 38, 49, 50 kumys (fermented mare’s milk), 139 labor. See employment labor shortages, in agriculture, 103—4; Soviet policies addressing, 52, 53 Ladoga wheat variety, 189 Lander, Chris, 124 land ownership: agroholdings and, 12, 77-79, 78г, 115,119; in imperial Russia, 55 Land Rush,
112 land use policies, 54-61; and agricultural production, 43; Bolshevik regime and, 55, 91; under Brezhnev, 58; under Gorbachev, 59, 60; in imperial Russia, 55; under Khrushchev, 56-58, 59; lasting impact of, 60; New Economic Policy (NEP) and, 55; privatization of 1990S and, 29; under Putin, 74, 77-79; under Stalin, 55-56; and sub sistence farming (LPKh), 58-59; under Yeltsin, 60-61, 66-68,108 Large White pig variety, 205, 206 Lavka Lavka, 131-32,174 Lenin, Vladimir: promise of bread and land, 5, 9-10, 91, 212; on transfor mation of everyday life {perestroika byta), 136 Libra pig variety, 177,181, 205, 205Г Linnik, Victor and Aleksandr, 115 Lithuania, food imports from, 133,162 Livers, Keith, 174 livestock herds, loss of: collectivization and, 85, 92, 96; reforms of 1990s and, 109 livestock production: agroholdings and, 115,126,198, 203-5; by agroholdings vs. small household farms, 84; breed ing strategies in, 184,198—207; Brezhnevs efforts to increase, 17, 53, 103; on collective farms, 93; confine ment operations in, 198, 201, 206, 207, 208-10; decline in 199OS, 68-69; “dual purpose” breeds in, i;i; fac tory farms and, 164; Khrushchevs efforts to increase, 98; public subsidies for, in Soviet era, 54; Putin-era poli cies regarding, 69, 76,126; reliance on imported parent stock in, 125, 204, 204í; in Soviet era, 200—201;
Index subsistence farming and, 105,107-8, 107Ą 147,151; viral threats in, 30, 84, 208—9, 210. See ako meat; specific types ofmeat local food movement, 12,131-32,161, i73 175 Lotman, Yuri, 9 LPKh farms (private subsidiary farms), n, 104—5; r°le in Soviet agricultural production, 86, 87,104; share of total production, 106-8,107Г, Soviet state’s policies regarding, 54-55, 56, 58-59, 98. See ako subsistence farming luxury goods, in Soviet era: affordability of, 51,144,145, 171; limited availability of, 166 Luzhkov, Yuri, 4, 82 Lysenko, Trofim, 90,187,188 Machine Tractor Stations (MTS), 50—51, 56, 96; abolition of, 57; inefficiencies of, 56 Mamonova, Natalia, 128, 131 markets: black, in Soviet era, 164; kolkhoz [kolkhoznyi rynok), yy-Go, 77; outdoor, 147-48,148/ Marx, Karl, 18 Matala, Saara, 23 McDonalds: arrival in Russia, 149,159; global integration and, 213; menu of, 160; in Russians’ daily lives, 32; supplier for, 115 McMichael, Philip, 19 meal(s), Russian: aspirational, 170-71; typical, 140,144,145,168. See ако diet meat: consumer expectations regarding, 171; cost in Soviet era, 163; food embargo of 2015 and, 132; imports of, 62, 69, no, 162; Putins promise of, 17, 27; in Russian diet, 150-53, 152Z; shortages of, 68-69, r32 ^5. See ако livestock production; meat con sumption; specific types ofmeat meat consumption: in 1970s Soviet Union, 64; democratization of, as 301 vision of good life, 17; Food Security Doctrine on, 71; increase in, 151,152Ą as marker of political success, 139—40, 150; in post-Soviet Russia, 26,153; in postwar decades, 144 Medvedev, Dmitry, 80, 81
Medvedev, Zhores, 20, 46 Mikoyan, Anastas, 16-17; on affordable luxuries, 51,144,145,171; cookbook endorsed by, 141; and food processing innovations, 102, 142 milk: increase in consumption of, 151; logistical challenges associated with, 145-46. See ако dairy millet, Soviet production of, 93 Miratorg, 115, 215; demand for feed grain, 126; export markets sought by, 124; food embargo of 2015 and, 132; government agenda and, 119; land holdings of, 78г, 115; and livestock breeding research, 205; products of, 78г, 115,153, i6o; state subsidies and growth of, 76 Mironovskaya winter wheat, 191,192yi 193 Mitchell, Timothy, 23 Moir, Sarah, 147 Monsanto, 120,186 Moskovich, Vadim, 114 Moskovskaya wheat variety, 191,194 Moss, Michael, 220 multicrop rotation, 49 Mumford, Lewis, 21 Narkozėm (People’s Commissariat of Agriculture), 46; approach to grain problem, 47—48, 49; purges of, 50 National Food Security Doctrine, 70—72 nature: as actor in agrifood systems, 24-25, 36-37, 58,177-78, 213; and humans, covulnerabilities of, 37,183— 84, 209-10, 211; and Russia’s “grain problem,” persistence of, 41, 47,17778; Soviet modernization project and, 181-82; technologies as weapons
302 Index nature (continued) against, 36. See also human-nature nexus Nefedova, Tatyana, 11,109, in, 120 Nemchinovka, 191,194; seed varieties developed and sold by, 194,195í Nérard, François-Xavier, 44 new agricultural operators (NAOs), П2. See aho agroholdings New Economic Policy (NEP), 48, 91-92; failure to solve grain problem, 35; international context and, 62; land use during, 55 New Zealand, food imports from, 64, 80,162 Nikulin, Alexander, 131 Nixon, Richard, 156,165 Norway: food imports from, 80,133,162; genetic material from, 193 nostalgia: for home-produced food, in contemporary Russia, 12, 28,174, 221; for Soviet-era products, and con temporary consumption patterns, 36, 175-76 Nove, Alec, 46, 57, 90 Novocherkassk, food riots in, 54 Novokmet, Filip, 32 obesity: in contemporary Russia, 32, 219—20; environments associated with, 219, 220; as global health problem, 219; in US, 218 ogorody (rural household farms), 11, 104 oil revenues, and subsidies to agriculture, 54.198 Olmstead, Alan, 20 outdoor markets: disappearance of, 175; and Russian diet, 147-48,148/ packaging: imported processed foods and, 149; in Soviet era, 145-46; suppli ers of, in post-Soviet era, 123 palm oil, imports of, 133 pasta (makarony), 145,146 pathogens, vulnerability of food produc tion to, 30, 84, 210 peasants, hitűre of, classical political economists on, 18-19 peasants, Russian: collectivization and, 10, 49, 92; Khrushchevs policies on, 52; “peasant problem” and, 39-40; resistance to Bolshevik campaigns, 46-47, 49, 50; restrictions on move ment of, 95; Stalins policies on, 38, 49, 50;
state control over, 50-51. See aho rural residents pelmeni: packaging of, 145, 146,150; in Russian diet, 151 PepsiCo, 102,148, 224 perestroika byta. See transformation of everyday life perishability, problem of, 99—102,107, 149 Petren pig variety, 205, 206 Piketty, Thomas, 32 planned economy, Soviet: shortages associated with, 11, 28, 36, 45,163, 214; successes of, 28, 44—45; waste and inefficiency associated with, 222 Pokhlebkin, Viľiam V., 172 Poland: food imports from, 162; grain exports to, 62; meat consumption in, 152; riots over food prices in, 63 Polanyi, Karl, 18,19 political elites, Soviet, access to privi leged foods, 33,140,163,164,165, 166 political power/legitimacy: agriculture and, 5,13, 31, 39, 83,135; food and, 5, 6-7; technologies and, 7-8,14—17, 35 politics: of agrifood systems, 224—26; agroholdings and, 82,118, 208, 224; Russian agrifood system and, 5, 6-7, 13,17, 39. See aho technopolitics Pollan, Michael, 21 pork: canned (tushonka), 151,175; import restrictions on, under Putin, 79, 80; in post-Soviet diet, 153; in Soviet diet, 151
Index pork production: African Swine Fever (ASF) scare and, 84,131; by agrohold ings, 84, 115, 206; breeding strategies, 199-203, 202Г, 205-6, 205/; confine ment operations in, 201, 206; food embargo of 2015 and, 132,133; govern ment subsidies for, in Putin era, 75-76; by household farms, 84, 130, 130Z; parent stock in, 125,180-81, 204, 205—6; post-World War II increases in, 100; Stalin regime and increase in, 51 potatoes: collective farms and challenges of growing, 99; fertilizers used in production of, 120; household farm production of, 105,107, 107Г, 108, in, 135,147, 149; in Russian diet, 140, 144,168 poultry production: agroholdings and, 115; and biosecurity threats, 208—9; confinement operations in, 207; decline in 1990S, 109; dual-purpose breeds in, 203; food embargo of 2015 and, 132,133; genetic diversity of Soviet hens, 203; genetic research and, 205, 206—7; government subsidies for, in Putin era, 75; high-efficiency broilers in, 26, 63, 203, 205, 206—7; household, decline in, 129,130; imported purebred parent stock in, 206; in post-Soviet era, 26, 75,115, 206—7; in Soviet era, 63, 203 poverty: everyday lived experience of, 32; increase in 1990S, 34, 67,167,168; in prerevolutionary Russia, 10 precision agriculture, 120 prices, consumer: artificial suppression in Soviet era, 54,163; Putins regime and control of, 71; Yeltsin’s reforms and rise in, 3-4,168 prices, procurement: as central gover nance tool of Soviet regime, 43, 47; efforts to solve grain problem and, 49; under Khrushchev, 52; “scissor” prob lem affecting collective farms, 68,109 303 privatization
of 1990s, 3, 5, 29; agro holdings as beneficiaries of, 77; bread factories (khlebozavodý) excluded from, 3; failure of, factors contribut ing to, 72; Gorbachev’s failed reforms and, 70-71; impact on farm land, 60-61, 66-67; international economic policy consensus and, 71; and transformation of farming, 87-89; unintended consequences of, 29, 35, 42, 44 processed foods: appeal of, 142; con sumer expectations regarding, 171; fast-food restaurants and, 159; history in Russia, 142,144; and obesity, 220; packaging issues associated with, 14546; in post-Soviet era, 138,148-50, 153, 160, 221; Russian, branding of, 17576; in Soviet era, 31,102-3, Σ4° 144՜ 46, 220—21; symbolic value of, 139,172 Prodimex, 78 г, 114 public, Deweys notion of, 25—26 Putin, Vladimir: agricultural policies of, 4, 5,12,13, 42-43, 69-83,198; and agroholdings, 5, 29, 35, 42—43, 72-76, 82,83,85, in, 118-19,i24 Ч5 agro-technopolitical regime under, contradictory elements of, 215—17; availability of food under, 149-50,163, 170,176, 212-13; and domestication of food production, 29, 215; failure of Yeltsin’s reforms and, 71; and food embargo, 12, 80-81,112; food sover eignty agenda of, 42, 43, 69—72, 80, 82; and foreign imports, decreased reliance on, 126; grain exports under, 12, 27, 70, 70Հ 72, 79, 89,127,127í; grain purchasing programs under, 118; and high-efficiency poultry broilers, 26; land use policies under, 74, 77—79; on main problem for agriculture, 38; and political goals for agriculture, 39, 198; and promise of better life, 15,17, 27; resurgence of nationalism under, 173-74; rural recovery
programs
304 Index Putin, Vladimir (continued) under, 69-70, 71, 87, in; state capital ism under, 69, 82, 212; state support for agriculture under, 69-70, 74-76; subsidies for agriculture under, 69, 74-76,138; success of agricultural pro duction under, 212—13; and technolog ical modernization of agriculture, 15, 38, 39,134; trade policies under, 69, 74, 79-81; transformation of agricul ture under, 5, 213, 215; visit to bread factory, 16, 16/; vulnerabilities of con temporary agro-technopolitical regime and, 225; wheat production under, 4 Reagan, Ronald, 64 Red Army (Soviet Army): challenge of feeding, 39, 46, 48, 87; food grown by, 104,105,108; meals for soldiers in, I43 151 refrigeration: invention of, and US development, 19-20; investment in, agroholdings and, 120,121í; Soviet-era challenges of, 102,146 Reid, Susan, 138,156 reindeer herds, and reindeer farming, 93, 182 research, agronomy: agroholdings and, 124-25,181, 203-5; Brezhnev-era investment in, 53; importance of, 125; in post-Soviet era, 193—98; in Soviet era, 187-93,198—99. See aho breeding restaurants: “democratic” (demokratichnyi), 169; fast-food, 149,159-60; food nationalism and, 173-74; local food movement and, 173; in post-Soviet era, 159-60; in Soviet era, 154,155-56; underground, in Soviet era, 164,165 Rhode, Paul, 20 Ries, Nancy, 149 roadside stands: disappearance of, 175; and Russian diet, 147-48,148/ Rogoff, Kenneth, 219 Romania, foods imported from, 62 Rosneft oil company, 198 Rosseľldiozbank (RusAg), subsidized credits by, 75, 76 Rosselkhoznadzor: food embargo and, 80,133; household farms targeted by, 131
rural change: agroholdings and, 5, 78-79; Brezhnev and, 39, 42; classical political economists on, 18-19; crisis of 1990S and, 168; grain exports and, 61-62; international context and, 62; Khrushchev and, 39, 41, 42, 52, 97-98; North American scholarship on, 19-20; outmigration and, 103-4,ւշ8; as prerequisite for construction of socialism, 38, 39—40; Putin and, 69-70, 71, 87, in; role of state in, 20; Stalin and, 20, 38, 51, 55-56, 87, 96-97; technologies employed to achieve, 5,12-13, 39, 86 rural labor force: in post-Soviet era, agroholdings and reduction in, 12, 30, 128,129Հ in Soviet era, labor-intensive production practices and, 52, 95, 95/ rural residents: and agroholdings, rela tionship of, 127—28; and collective farms, relationship of, 127; dis possession in post-Soviet era, 34, 218; outmigration in late 20th—early 21st century, 103-4,128; restrictions on movement of, 95; unequal access to food, in Soviet era, 10,164,165 RusAg. See Rosseľldiozbank Rusagro, 215; corporate charitable proj ects of, 128; export markets sought by, 124; land holdings of, 77, 78Ą main commodities of, 78í, 114 Russian White hen, 203 ryazhenka (fermented milk product), 33 rye, decline in cultivation of, 93; tech nological change and, 26, 97,138 Samara Agricultural Research Institute, 193,194; seed varieties developed and sold by, 194, 195г
Index Sanchez-Sibony, Oscar, 62 Saraiva, Tiago, 187 Saratov Institute, 191 Saratovskaya spring wheat, 191-93 Sätre, Ann-Mari, 68 Savchenko, Yevgeny, 78—79 SberBank, 76 Schechter, Brandon, 143 science: and changes in Russia’s agrifood system, 12-13,13^ and society, copro duction of, 22-23; as weapon against nature, 36. See ako research Scott, James, 7, 23, 31,186 seeds: hybrid, endorsement by Khru shchev, 189; imported, reliance on, 125,189,194,196,197; Russian, US imports of, 61,189; as “technologies,” 178; varieties developed and sold by Russia, 194,195Z; wheat, 125,183,184, 189-95, See also breeding seed vault, Soviet, 187 Semirechenskaya pig breed, 202, 202í Shanin, Theodor, 20 shortages: foreign consumer goods in context of, 172; as hallmark of Soviet byt, 28,140,146-47; in Khrushchev era, 52; of meat, 68-69, I52֊ r53; rising expectations and, 103; Soviet planned agriculture and, 11, 28, 36, 45,163, 214; in Yeltsin era, 66, 68-69. See ako labor shortages Siberia: agroholdings’ activities in, 1177»; food consumption in, 166; subsistence farming in, 107; Virgin Lands cam paign in, 57, 97 Siberian Agricultural Research Institute, 193, 194; seed varieties developed and sold by, 194,195í Smena chicken, 205, 207, 208 Smith, Jenny Leigh, 20, 28, 47, 95, too, 181,188 Sneddon, Chris, 23 social organization of production: changes in, 85, 87—89, 88í; collectiv ization and, 92—93; definition of, 85 305 Sorokin, Vladimir, 174 soup kitchens, 168 Soviet Army. See Red Army Soviet Large White pig breed, 202, 202í sovkhozy (state farms), 48, 92. See ako collective farms soy:
agroholdings and production of, 78, 78í, 114,115; GMO ban and, 197; Russian imports of, 132, 206, 213; seeds for, 125,195í, 196; Soviet produc tion of, 185; US exports of, 214, 224 Spoor, Max, 113,131 Sputnik-Stevenson ranch, 204 Stalin, Joseph: and affordable luxuries, 51,145,171; agricultural policies of, 49-52, 55-56, 60; collectivization under, 5, 35, 41, 50, 55-56, 85, 92, 214; grain problem and, 41, 50, 83; and Lysenko, 90,188; mechanization of farming under, 56, 96-97,134; purges under, 90,188; and rural transforma tion, 20, 38, 51, 55-56, 87, 96-97; and shift to autarky, 62 state(s): and agricultural production, 31, 43; and agricultural technologies, 20, 134; and capital, coproduction in technopolitics, 22—23; marketization and new role of, 29; policy tools to change agricultural production, 43; role in rural modernization, 20; as source of inefficiencies, international economic policy consensus on, 71; support for agriculture, under Putin, 69-70; unintended effects of, tech nopolitical lens on, 23—24, 26—27 state capitalism, under Putin, 69, 82, 212 state-owned corporations, 115—18 status, food consumption as marker of, 33-34, 2I3 steppe, expansion of field-crop farming to, 178; environmental impact of, 98-99,186 Stolichnaya Vodka, distribution in US, 102 stolovye. See canteens
306 Index Stolypin, Pyotr, 42, 55 street food, Soviet, 148 subsidies: to private farmers, in postSoviet era, 43, 69, 74-76; to state farmers, in Soviet era, 54 subsistence farming, 104—5; agroholdings and sidelining of, 113,135; and collec tive farming, mutual dependence of, li, 59,104,106,127,129; Khrushchevs crackdown on, 59,106,107; and live stock production, 107—8,107í, 151; local knowledge and domestic tech nologies and, 90-91,135; as percentage of arable land, 105; in post-Soviet era, 129—32; Putin-era policies and, 76; during reforms of 1980s and 1990s, 108—9, in; role in Soviet agricultural production, 86, 87,106-8, 107í; and Russian diet, 147—48; Soviet policies on, 54-55, 56, 58-59,106; timeline of, 88ą types of, її; variations across regions, 107; women and, 104; during World War II, 56. See also LPKh farms sugar: consumption of, steady increase in, 144; foreign imports of, in 1990s, no; import restrictions on, under Putin, 79; sourced from beets vs. sugar cane, 149; unequal access to, in Soviet era, 165; uneven availability of, in Soviet era, 144,166 sugar beets: agroholdings and produc tion of, 114,126; breeding of, Soviet history of, 196—97; fertilizers used in production of, 120—23; imported seeds for, 196,197; new technologies to refine, 100; Putin governments sup port for growers of, 76; Russian exports of, during World War I, 61; Soviet production of, 93 sunflower seeds: agroholdings and pro duction of, 78í, 114; procurement price for, Khrushchevs reforms and, 52; seeds for, 125, 196^ Soviet produc tion of, 93 sweets: in new processed foods,
138,150; in Soviet diet, 39,140,144,150,155. See abo chocolates; ice cream; sugar Syngenta, 120,186 tax exemptions, and agricultural policy under Putin, 74-75 Taylor, Frederick, 96 technological change: classical political economists on, 18,19; North Ameri can scholarship on, 19-20 technologies, food and agriculture: agroholdings and modernization of, 85, 89, 91,112, 119,120-24,121Հ 122t«, 135; under Brezhnev, 103,134; changes in 20th and 21st centuries, 10,14-16, 88Z; foreign, late adoption on Russian farms, 96-97; and global integration, 113; imported, and food safety stan dards, 123-24; imports from US, 63, 90, 96, 102, 134; inherited from Soviet collective farms, 119-20; local, 90-91; as political instruments, 7-8,14-17, 35; under Putin, 31-32, 38, 39,122m, 123,134; and rural transformation, 5, 12—13, 39 86; and social organization of production, 85; Soviet political pri orities and adoption of, 89-90; under Stalin, 56, 96-97,134; state and, 20, 134; subsidized credits supporting, in Putin era, 75, 76; subsistence farming and, 90-91, 135; unintended conse quences of, 26, 29-30, 97,134-35, ï86; as weapons against nature, 36 technopolitics, 6; and agency in agrifood systems, 24—27, 37, 225-26; as con ceptual device, 8-9,14,17-18, 37; coproduction in, 22-23; definition of, 8; Hechts formulation of, 22; and large producers, advantages for, 31; on state’s unintended effects, 23-24, 26-27; studies employing, 23. See also agro-technopolitics Teremok (fast-food chain), 175-76 Tilzey, Mark, 25
Index Tkachov, Alexander, 74 Tolstoy, Lev, 150,170,171 tractor(s): and land use practices, 56; Stalin-era “tractorization” and reliance on, 7-8, 96 trade, external, Russian policies on: and agricultural production, 43, 61-64; with Eastern European satellite states, 62, 64; in imperial era, 61; under Khrushchev, 62—63; in late 1980s, 6ým under Putin, 69, 74, 79—81; with US, in 1970S and 1980s, 63-64. See ako exports; imports transformation of everyday life (pere stroika hyta)·. Bolshevik Revolution and, 6, 136; fast-food restaurants and, 32; political and technological change and, 6; post-Soviet markets and, 136, 176 treats, Soviet-era, 51, 102, 103,139,144, 145f. See also chocolates; ice cream; sweets Turkey: combine harvesters rented from, 120; foreign seasonal labor from, 113; grain exports to, 72,127 Turkey Red Wheat, 61,189 tvorog (fermented milk product), 32, 34, 147 Ukraine: challenges of planned agricul ture in, 99; famines in, 50, 56; fruits and vegetables from, 93, 99,162; grain exports by, 72; Holodomor in, 50; livestock breeding research center in, 198—99; pork exports to, 133; seasonal migrant labor from, 128; transforma tion of steppes of, 178; wheat produc tion in, 61 Ukrainian White Steppe pig breed, 199 United Grain Company (UGC), 43,11518,127 United States: agricultural order in, pivotal role in 20th century, 31, 216; agrifood system in, commonalties with Russian agrifood system, 30—31, ЗО/ 214-15, 221-22; fast-food restaurants’ operations in Russia, 149,159-60; food aid to Russia, in 1991-92, 66; grain surpluses in, mixed blessing of, 214; high-
efficiency broilers developed in, 203; imports of grains from, in 1970S, 27, 63-64; imports of meat from, in 1990S, 69, no; imports of seeds from, 189,194; income inequal ity in, 32; inequality in food system of, 217; influences on Russian diet and byt, 31—32; irrigation systems in, import and replication of, 53; Khru shchev’s agricultural diplomacy with, 61,189; Khrushchevs visit to, 57; knowledge exchange with Soviet Union, 214-15; market consolidation of farming in, 214; meat consumption in, 152; Mikoyan’s visit to, 102,142; “miracle kitchen” in, 156; obesity in, 218; politics of agrifood system in, 31, 224; rural labor force in, 95, 214; Rus sian wheat seeds imported in, 61,189; small farmers in, crisis of late 1980searly 1990S, 66; technological change in, scholarship on, 19—20; technology transfers from, 63, 90, 96,102,134; vulnerabilities associated with capital ist agriculture of, 214; waste in food system of, 221; wheat yields in, vs. Soviet yields, 185,185г United States Department of Agricul ture (USDA): and grain exports to Soviet Russia, in 1970s, 63; role in industrialization of farming, 20; and wheat varieties adopted from Russia, 61 urban residents, access to food among: in post-Soviet era, 34, 140-41,168, 218; in Soviet era, 10,103,138,164 usad’by (garden plots), 54. See ako LPKh farms; subsistence farming Uzbekistan: irrigation schemes in, 82; meat consumption in, 152. See ako Central Asia
308 Index Vavilov, Nikolai I., 180,184,186,187—88, 190 Vavilov Institute of Plant Genetic Resources (VIR), 187 vegetable oils: agroholdings and produc tion of, 114; consumption of, steady increase in, 144; Russian imports of, under Brezhnev, 63 vegetables: consumption in Soviet era, 140; household farm production of, 107Л 108,147; imports in post-Soviet era, 161—62; per-capita consumption of, decrease in 1990s, 162; planned economy and challenges of produc tion, 99—100 vegetarian diet, advocates of, 143,150, 171 vernalization (iarovisatsiia), 188 viral threats: confinement farming practices and, 208-9, 2I°; genetic uniformity and vulnerability to, 30; impact on humans, 210; impact on small-scale farmers, 84,131 Virgin Lands campaign, 5, 27, 35, 44, 57-58, 97-98; failure of, 27, 44; impact of, 35,134-35 Visser, Oane, 113,128,131 vodka: debates about origins of, 172,175; marketing in US, 102; potatoes used in production of, 99; in Soviet diet, 140,143,151 Volga basin: agroholdings in, 78; Virgin Lands campaign in, 57; wheat produc tion in, 61 Vorbrugg, Alexander, 68 Voronezh, agroholdings in, 78, 79 vulnerabilities: confinement farming practices and, 208—10; global integra tion of food systems and, 213, 217—24; human-nature nexus and, 37,183-84, 209—10, 211; plant and animal breed ing and, 30,186, 207-11; as triggers of change, 28, 225; of US capitalist agri culture, 214. See aho environmental costs Wädekin, Karl-Eugen, 20, 59, 60,104, 108 waste and wastefulness: in post-Soviet food system, 223; in Soviet food system, 221—23; in US food system, 221 Wegren, Stephen,
67,161,168 West: industrial agriculture in, criticism of, 131; local food movement in, 13132; technology-intensive farming in, agroholdings adopting, 120. See also European Union; United States Western consumer goods, cult of, 172 Western foods, backlash against, 173 Western technologies, 5, 90; agrohold ings adopting, 120 wheat: genetic vulnerabilities of, 210; increased production under Khru shchev, 98; increased yields of, agro holdings and, 125—27,ւշ6է; as most common Soviet field crop, 93; revival of production under Putin, 4; rye replaced by, 26, 97; seed breeding for, 125,183,184,189-95,192^ seeds used for, 181; strength of Russian varieties of, 195, 196t; yields in Soviet Union vs. US, 185,185Г wheat exports: as foreign policy tool, 72; in imperial era, 61; main destinations for, 72, 73W; in post-Soviet era, 12, 27, 70, 72,127,127Г Wimm-Bill-Dann, 113 Winner, Langdon, 21,179 Witte, Sergey, 61 women, Soviet: and meal preparation, 156; and procurement of food items, 167; and subsistence farming, 104 World Trade Organization (WTO), Russia’s accession to, 79-80; negotia tions leading to, 79, 82 World War I: Russian agriculture dur ing, 45-46; Russian grain exports during, 62; Russian sugar beet seeds exports during, 61
Index 309 yields, 185—86; push for higher, unin tended consequences of, 186; in US vs. Soviet Union, 185,1856 214 yogurt, in Soviet vs. post-Soviet food system, 32-33, 34,142,150,168 World War II: diet during, 143; impact on agriculture, 56; Soviet rural plan ning after, 51; subsistence farming during, 59 Yeltsin, Boris: agricultural policies under, 66—69, 108, i°9; failure of reforms of, 70—71; international economic policy consensus and, 71; land use policies under, 60-61, 66-68,108; market liberalization/privatization under, 3, 5, 29, 35, 42, 44, 70-71, 87-89; new forms of stratification under, 33—34 Zaslavsky, Ilya, n, 109, in, 120 zelen (greens), household farm produc tion of, 147 Znamensk Genetic Selection Center, 205, 206 Zucman, Gabriel, 32 Bayerische Staatsbibliothek München
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CONTENTS List of Illustrations ix Acknowledgments xiii Note on Transliteration, Translation, andPlace-Names xvii Introduction: Setting the Table 3 i Governance; or, How to Solve the GrainProblem 38 2 Production 84 3 Consumption; or, Perestroika of theQuotidian 136 4 Nature 177 Conclusion: Vulnerabilities 212 Notes 227 Bibliography 269 Index 291
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INDEX Page numbers followed by letters f, m, and t refer to figures, maps, and tables, respectively. access to food: and consumption pat terns, 36; geographical variation in, 164,165-66,168; market liberalization and changes in, 167—70; post-Soviet inequalities in, 33-34,139, 141,176; Soviet-era inequalities in, 33,139-40, 163—67,164,165,166; strategies for obtaining, 166—67 African Swine Fever (ASF): household farms targeted for, 84, 131; vulnerabil ity of food production to, 30, 84, 210 agency: in agrifood systems, technopolit ical lens on, 24-27, 37, 225; uninten tional consequences of, 23—24, 26—28 Agricultural Research Institute of the Non-Chernozem Zone (Nemchinovka), 191,194; seed varieties devel oped and sold by, 194,195t Agricultural Research Institute of the Southeast (Saratov Institute), 191 agriculture: and human-nature nexus, 178; and political power/legitimacy, 5,13, 31, 39, 83,135; political science literature on, 37, 213. See abo under change agriculture, Russian: major episodes of change in, 4—5, 29, 214; as political and technological project, 13,17, 39; precision, 120; under Putin, 4, 5,12, 13, 42-43, 69-83,198; during World War I, 45-46 agriculture, Soviet: Bolshevik govern ment and, 46-49, 55; under Brezhnev, 52-54, 58, 59, 60, 63; under Gorba chev, 59-60; under Khrushchev, 51-52, 56-58, 59, 60, 62-63, 97-98։ shortages and inefficiencies plaguing, it, 28, 36, 45, 163, 214; under Stalin, 49-52, 55—56, 60, 96—97; successes of, 28, 44-45; transformation in 1990s, 4-5, 29; two forms of production in, 85-86; US agriculture compared to, 31, 214; under
Yeltsin, 66-69 agrochemicals: environmental costs of, 214, 223; use in Brezhnev era, 53, 54, 222; use in post-Soviet era, 120-23, 223 agroholdings, 78г, II2; activities by region, 115, n6w, 117222; as agents of change, 42-43, 215; and breeding strategies, 124—25, 181, 203—5; capital investments by, ш-12, ІІ2Г, 119,120; collective farms compared to, 29, 77; and confinement farming practices, 291
292 Index agroholdings (continued) 198, 208; corporate social responsi bility programs of, 128-29, 44 215 í as dominant actors in Russian agricul ture, 29, 35, 215; employment levels at, 12, 30,128,129^ and food embargo, 82; and global integration, 89, 91, 123, 135; government’s political goals and, 82,118, 208, 224; and grain surpluses, 12, 212; and human-nature nexus, changes in, 89, 211; joint ventures with foreign companies, 123; land acquisition by, 12, 77-79, 78í, 115,119; and livestock production, 115,126, 198, 203-5; policies supporting growth of, 72-76, 78-79, 81-82; in primary production, 114; and productivity, increase in, 125—27, 126Ѓ; Putins regime and, 5, 29, 35, 42-43, 72-76, 82, 83, 85,112,118-19,124 I35 215; regional administrations and, 78—79; rise of, 82, 89, in—14; and rural resi dents, relationship with, 127—28; and rural transformation, 5, 78-79, ill; state-owned corporations, 115—18; and subsistence farming, sidelining of, 113, 135; and technological modernization, 85, 89, 91,112,119,120-24, 121Л 122»։, 135; types of, 113-18; US corporate lobbies compared to, 81; Yeltsin-era privatization and, 77 Agrokultura, 78 г, 114 agro-technopolitics, 8; and changes in diet, 27, 36,137-38, 221; and flow of state-controlled resources, 43; and four realms of food systems, 17, 24. See ako technopolitics Allen, Richard, 90 Allina-Pisano, Jessica, 67,109 All-Russian Poultry Science Research and Technology Institute (VNITIP), 207; logo of, 13 allure of food, 170-76; authentically Russian, 172,173-74; and consump tion patterns, 36; local/homemade, 173,175; nostalgia
for Soviet-era prod ucts and, 36,175-76; processed, 142; technopolitics and, 175; Western, 172 Altai Agricultural Research Institute, seed varieties developed and sold by, 195г Anderson, Joseph, 187 Anna Karenina (Tolstoy), 170 Aral Sea basin, demise of, 28, 58, 60,186 Argentina, food imports from, 64,162 Asfivirus, 30, 84. See ako African Swine Fever (ASF) Askaniia Nova (nature preserve), 198-99 availability of food: and consumption patterns, 36,146-47; crisis of 1991-92 and, 66, 68—69; Putin regime and, 149-50,163,170,176, 212-13; Sovietera shortages, li, 28, 36,144,146-47, 152,153, 214 Aviagen, 206, 207 Avian flu: confinement farming practices and threat of, 208-9; household farms targeted for, 131; vulnerability of food production to, 30, 210 Babaev, Igor, 115 banks, subsidized credits by, 75, 76 barley, 26, 93,125 Barnes, Andrew, 67 Barsukova, Svedana, 172,173 Baskin-Robbins, 159,160 Bates, Robert, 21 Bayer, 120 beef: food embargo of 2015 and, 132, 133-34; imports in post-Soviet era, 162; Putin-era subsidies to producers of, 76; in Soviet diet, 151; suggested substitutes for, Soviet planners and, 152. See ako livestock production Belarus: challenges of planned agricul ture in, 99-100; foods imported from, 80,133,162; pork exports to, 133; seasonal migrant labor from, 128 Belgorod, agroholdings in, 78 Beriozka stores, 166—67
Index Berliner, Joseph, 90, 91 Bernstein, Henry, 20 biosecurity, threats to, 208-9 Black Earth Farming, 114 Black Earth region (Chernozem), 5; agroholdings’ land ownership in, 12, 77,115, 128; collectivization and loss of livestock in, 92; grains grown in, 93; subsistence farming in, 107 black markets, in Soviet era, 164 “black repartition,” 55 black rye bread, white bread replacing, 26,138 Blue Noses Art Collective, 173 Bolshevik government: agricultural policies of, 46—49, 55; and communal dining halls, 154; grain problem and, 35, 46, 47-49; land use policies of, 55, 91; political goals for agriculture under, 39; and rural modernization, 38, 39-40 Bolshevik Revolution: grain shortage and promise of bread, 5, 9—10,14, 16—17, 4G 212; Russian grain exports during, 62; and transformation of existing order and diet, 6, 55,136, 142-43 Book of Tasty and Healthy Food (Kniga о vkusnoi i zdorovoi pishche), 141-42, 161,171 Brain, Stephen, 182 Braudel, Fernand, 21 Brazil, food imports from, no, 133, 162 bread: Bolshevik Revolution and prom ise of, 5, 9-10,14,16-17, 46, 212; centrality to Russian diet and cultural identity, 3; cost in Soviet era, 163; Leningrad bakeries and, 102; as marker of diet changes, 136-37; material reality and symbolic value of, 9,17; rising prices of, Yeltsin’s reforms and, 3-4,168; Soviet produc tion and, 10; state monopoly on pro duction of, 68; wasteful use in Soviet 2-93 era, 222; white, black rye bread replaced with, 26,138; white, symbolic value of, 17 bread factories {khlebozavody)·. as essen tial manifestation of Soviet socialism, 14,1$/; excluded
from privatization of 1990S, 3; Gorky’s visit to, 14; Putin’s visit to, 16,l6f breeding, plant and animal: agrohold ings and, 125,181, 203-4; as artificial selection, 186; climate change and, 194-95; diversity as strategy in, 199— 200, 201, 203; fimdamental rationales for, 179; global giants and, 186; human-nature nexus and, 179; hybrid seed technology and, 189; investment in, in Brezhnev era, 53; local context and, 179-80,184, 200, 202; political projects and, 187; in post-Soviet era, 180,193-98, 203-7; in Soviet era, 179-80,187-93,198-203; vernalization (iarovisatsHa) theory of, 188; vulnera bilities associated with, 30,186, 207-11 Breitovskaya pig breed, 201-2, 202Г, 204, 205 Brezhnev, Leonid: agricultural imports under, 27, 63-64,103; agricultural policies under, 52-54, 58, 59, 60, 63-64; chemicalization of agriculture under, 103,134, 222; fishing fleet expansion under, 26,138; promise of more meat, 17,103; rural moderniza tion under, 39, 42; subsistence farm ing under, 59 broilers, high-efficiency: in post-Soviet era, 26, 205, 206-7; *n Soviet era, 63, 203 Bruno, Andy, 181,182-83 Bryansk, agroholdings in, 78 Buck-Morss, Susan, 21-22 Bukharin, Nikolai, 38, 46, 48 Butz, Earl, 63 byt. See everyday life; transformation of everyday life
294 Index cabbage: as authentically Russian food, 173; collective sector production and, 99; fermented (kvashenaia kapusta), 147; in Russian diet, 140,143,147,151, IJ5.170 cafés: in post-Soviet era, 159; in Soviet era, 154,156,157/ cafeterias, Soviet-era, 154—55 Caldwell, Melissa, 32,173,174 Cambodia, Soviet aid to, 62, 64 Canada, Russian wheat seeds in, 61,189 canteens (stolovyep. factory, 164; fast-food restaurants compared to, 159; in postSoviet era, 159; in Soviet era, 154—55 capital: availability of, and food sover eignty agenda, 72; lack of, and failure of Yeltsins reforms, 72,109; state and, coproduction in technopolitics, 22-23. See ако investments Cargill, 123,124,127,160, 224 Carter, Jimmy, 64 Caterpillar, 96 cattle, “dual purpose” breeds of, 151. See ако livestock production Caucasus region: agroholdings’ opera tions in, 128; famines in, 50; food consumption in, 166; fruits and veg etables from, 162; subsistence farming in, 107; wheat exports from, 61 Central Asia: agriculture schemes in, environmental consequences of, 28, 58, 60, 98-99, 186; food consumption in, 166; forced settling and collectiv ization of nomadic societies in, 97; seasonal labor from, 120, 128. See ако Kazakhstan; Uzbekistan champagne, industrial production of, 51, 102-3, 49 144 change, 7; agricultural, extant theories of, 17—20, 21; in agrifood systems, broader perspective on, 8, 24, 36, 37, 213; in diet, shifting agro-technopolitics and, 27, 36,137-38, 221; dramatic episodes of, in Russia’s history, 5, 87, 89, 214; food as tool to track, 6, 9; technopolitical lens on, 23, 24, 22526;
unintentional consequences of agency and, 23—24, 26—28; vulnerabili ties as triggers of, 28, 225. See ако rural change; technological change Chayanov, Alexander, 18, 48, 50,131; theory of rural change, 18-19 Chechnya, subsidies to farmers in, 75 Cherkizovo, 115, 215; charitable projects of, 128; demand for feed grain, 126; export markets sought by, 124; favor able regulatory environment and, 74-75; food embargo of 2015 and, 132; land holdings of, 115; and livestock breeding research, 205; pork produc tion by, 84,115; support for govern ment’s agenda, 118 Chernozem. See Black Earth region chicken: “dual purpose” breeds of, 151; on fast-food menus, 160; imports from US, 69,16279; hi post-Soviet diet, 26,153,169; suggested substitutes for, Soviet planners and, 152. See also broilers; poultry production China: agricultural exports to, 114, 124; avian flu in, 208; seasonal labor from, 113 chocolates, industrial production of, 51, 144 CIMMYT germplasm, 193 Civil War: agriculture during, 48, 59; forced requisitions during, 91; grain exports during, 62 Claas, 120,123 climate: and Russian agriculture, 177, 185. See ако drought(s) climate change: and plant breeding strategies, 194—95; response to, 186 Cobb-Van tress, 206, 207; broiler devel oped by, 203 collective dining establishments, Soviet, 154-56. See ако canteens; restaurants collective farms (kolkhozy), 48-49, 92; agroholdings compared to, 29, 77; as backbone of Soviet industrial
Index agriculture, іо, 86; catastrophic begin nings of, 92; commodities produced by, 93, 947Я; consolidation and mod ernization of, 54; expansion under Khrushchev, 97; Gorbachev’s reforms and, 108-10; grain problem and, 212; important role of, 87, 93; laborintensive production practices of, 52, 95 labor shortages affecting, 103— 4; LPKh farms and, 11, 59, 104,106, 127,129; Machine Tractor Stations (MTS) and, 50-51, 56, 57, 96; mecha nization of, 96; political control over, 50-51, 56, 92-93, 98; “price scissor” problem affecting, 68,109; problems plaguing, 68, 87, 99-102, 212; and rural residents, relationship of, 127; and scientists, idealized alliance between, 13, Iзƒ social functions of, 127; and social organization of pro duction, 92-93; after Soviet Unions collapse, її, 119—20; wheat varieties used on, 191; workers at, undocu mented workers in US compared to, 214; Yeltsin’s reforms and breakup of, 66-68,109, no, iiof collectivization, 41, 50, 55-56, 92, 214; grain problem and, 41, 50; human cost of, 10, 28, 35; Khrushchev’s posi tion on, 51; and loss of livestock herds, 85, 92, 96; “middle” producers elimi nated during, 31; and modernization of production, 35; peasant resistance to, 49, 50; and Putin’s reforms, 213; and social organization of production, 92-93; subsistence farming during, 104 combine harvesters: German, exports to Russia, 120; introduction of, and decline in rye cultivation, 26, 97,138 ComEcon, 62 communal apartments, kitchens in, 156, 158/ communal dining, in Soviet era, 154-56 2-95 confinement farming practices, 198, 201, 206, 207;
vulnerabilities associated with, 208—10 consumers: and change in agrifood sys tems, 24, 36, 37, 213, 224-25; rising expectations of, 103 cookbook(s), official Soviet, 141-42,146, 161, 171; portions of meat and fish in, 150 cooking shows, Russian, 160 corn: agroholdings and production of, 114,115; canned, in Stalin era, 51; GMO ban and, 197; imported seeds for, 125,196; Khrushchev’s policies on, 15, 41, 57-58, 63, 98,189; Soviet pro duction of, 93,184, 185; Soviet vs. US yields of, 185; US exports of, 27, 214; vulnerability to pathogenic agents, 184 cotton production, Soviet, 93; irrigation schemes and environmental conse quences of, 28, 58 Crimean annexation, trade regimes after, 80-81 CRISPR-Cas9 technology, as political tool, 8,198 Cronon, William, 19-20, 211 dachas (suburban garden plots), 11,104, 105/ľ See aho LPKh farms; subsistence farming dairy: consumer expectations regarding, 171; factory farms and supply of, 164; fermented milk products, in Russian diet, 32, 33,139,146,147; food embargo of 2015 and, 132,133-34; perishability problem and, 100—102; Putin-era subsidies for production of, 76; reliance on foreign parent stock for, 125; Russian imports of, under Brezhnev, 63, 64; subsistence farming and, 105,107,147. See aho milk; yogurt Danone, 113,168 Demuth, Bathsheba, 182 Dewey, John, 25—26
296 Index diet, Russian: agroholdings and changes in, 89,135; authentic, quest for, 172, 173-74,175; baked goods in, 148; Bolshevik Revolution and transforma tion of, 142-43; bread in, 3,136-37; Brezhnev-era policies and, 26, 103; changes in, shifting agro-technopolitics and, 27, 36,137-38, 221; changing expectations and, 16—17; communal dining and, 154—56; early socialist utopian thinking on, 171; fast-food restaurants and, 32,149,159-60; fer mented milk products in, 32, 33,139, 146,147; fish in, 152-53; food embargo of 2015 and, 132—33; geographical vari ations in, 139,166; homegrown and home-processed foods in, 140,149, 153-56,174; imported vs. domestic food in, 161-62; meat in, 150-53,152Г; pensioners’, 34,168, in postSoviet era, 12, 26, 33,140-41,148-50, 169—70, 221; in prerevolutionary era, 5; processed foods in, 148—50; short ages and, 36,146-47; in Soviet era, 10, 32-33,140,143-44, 220-21; subsis tence agriculture and, 147-48; unequal access to food and, 139,141, 162—70; of urban vs. rural residents, 10,164,165; vegetarian, advocates of, 143,150, 171; Western influences on, 150,172, 219; during World War II, 143 DLF Seeds, 196 Dmitriev, N. K., 199-200 Dow Chemical, 120 drought(s): climate change and, 194; export embargo following, 79; persis tent problem of, 41,177; plant breed ing for resistance to, 184, 189,190,191, 194; US irrigation systems adopted in response to, 53 DuPont, 120 Dürr, Stefan, 74, 82 Eastern European states, foods imported from, 62, 64, 80, 94m, 133,162 eggs: collective farm production of, 93; factory farms and supply of, 164; in fast-food
breakfast sandwiches, 160; genetic research and production of, 203; household farm production of, 105,107t, 108,147; shortages in Soviet era, 107,146 Egypt: Russian wheat exports to, 72; Soviet aid to, 62 EkoNiva, 215; charitable projects of, 128, 134; demand for feed grain, 126; food embargo and growth of, 134; jobs created by, 128; land holdings and main commodities of, 78í; regional administrations’ support for, 79; special relationship with the state, 74, 76, 82 employment, agricultural: agroholdings and decline in, 12, 30,128,129 t, col lective farms and, 52, 95, 95^ 103—4; seasonal migrant, 113, 120,128; in US, 95 214 environmental costs: of fertilizer applica tion, 214, 223; of Soviet agricultural policies, 28, 58, 60,186, 214 Ernst, L. K., 199-200 Eskimo bars, 144. See also ice cream Estonia: fish collective farm in, 101/; meat consumption in, 152 European Union (EUj/Western Europe: ban on imports from, 80-81; food aid to Russia, 66; imperial Russia as breadbasket for, 61; knowledge exchange with, 45. See ako West everyday life (¿yr), Russian: communal eating and, 154-56; post-Soviet, 176; Soviet, shortage economy as hallmark of, 140,146-47; Western influences on, 31-32. See ako transformation of everyday life Exima, 118, 205, 215 exports, Russian: agroholdings and, 124,135; during Bolshevik Revolution, 62; as foreign policy tool, 72; and global integration, 113; impact on
Index countryside, 61-62; in imperial era, 61; infrastructure investments under Putin, 127; in post-Soviet era, 12, 27, 70, 70^ 72, 79, 89,127,127Ą during World War I, 61, 62. See also grain exports; wheat exports famines: in 1920s, 48; in 1940s, 56; forced collectivization and, 50 Far East: agricultural production in, 78; agroholdings’ activities in, 117m; food consumption in, 166; subsistence farming in, 107 fast-food restaurants: arrival of, 149,15960; and revaluation of local food, 161; Russian, branding of, 175—76; and transformation of byt, 32 feed, livestock: imports of, 103; increased demand for, 64, 126; in post-Soviet era, 126, 206; shortages in Soviet era, 200; Soviet vs. US, 185 fertilizers: agroholdings’ use of, 120—23; environmental costs of, 214, 223; use in Brezhnev era, 53, 54, 222; use in post-Soviet era, 223; wasteful use of, 222—23 fish, in Soviet diet, 26, 138,140, 144,145, 151,152-53, 168 fishing industry: food embargo of 2015 and, 133; Soviet, 26, 93,100, ιοί/ Fitzgerald, Deborah, 96 flax, Soviet production of, 93 food: material reality and symbolic properties of, 6, 9; and political power/legitimacy, 5, 6—7; tracking of change through, 6, 9 food consumption: Bolshevik party and, 139; determinants of, 36,138, 147,176; evolution from Soviet to post-Soviet period, 140-41; and national culture, 213; and social status, 33—34, 213. See abo diet food embargo of 2015,12, 80—81; and agricultural production, 112; agrohold ings’ support for, 82; effects of, 132—34; 297 as resistance against Western forces, 17З food fiiturists, 143 food nationalism, 173-74 food
processing: capital investment in 2000s, in, 112/; in post-Soviet era, 113; in Soviet era, 102; and waste/ wastefulness, 221. See abo processed foods food safety standards: impact on house hold farms, 130-31; imported technol ogies and, 123-24; Soviet vs. Western, 123-24 food security: doctrine of, 70-72; imported genetic material and issues of, 208 food sovereignty: meaning in Russian context, 43; Putins agenda of, 42, 43, 69-72, 80, 82; trade policies as tools for, 79 Food Supply Commissariat, 48 food system(s)Zagrifood system(s): agency in, technopolitical lens on, 24—27, 37; change in, broader perspective on, 8, 24, 36, 37, 213; four realms of, 17, 24; modes of production and domestica tion and, 85; politics of, 224-26 food system, Russian: compared to US agrifood system, 30-31, 214-15, 22122; contemporary, 31-32; convergence with Western food system, 12, 31—32; global integration and domestication of, 213, 215-17; global integration of, vulnerabilities associated with, 213, 217-24; international context and changes in, 45; political dimensions of, 5, 6-7; science and changes in, 12-13, in Soviet era, 10—її, 31, 36; waste and wastefulness in, 221—24 Ford, Henry, 96 Ford Motor Company, 96 Fosters, John B., 25 Fox, Coleen, 23 France, agricultural imports from, 162, 196
298 Index Freidberg, Susanne, 23-24 goats, backyard, 107 Friedmann, Harriet, 19 Gorbachev, Mikhail: decentralization fruits: household farms and production of, 147; imports of, in post-Soviet era, under, 42; land use policies under, 59, 60; rural reforms under, 108 162; per-capita consumption of, Gordeev, Alexey, 69, 71, 72, 74, 79, 82 decrease in 1990s, 162; planned econ omy and challenges of production, Gordeev, Nikita, 82 99-100 Fullilove, Courtney, 178-79 Gorky, Maxim, visit to Leningrad bakery, 14 Gossortkommissia, 195 GOST (Soviet-era food safety stan garden plots (usaďby), 54 Gazprom, arable land holdings of, 77 gene-edited crops, 198. See abo CRISPR- Cas9 technology dards), 123 GPS data, use in agriculture, 120 Graham, Loren, 90, 91,188 grain(s): agrochemicals used in produc General Electric, 96 tion of, 120; agroholdings focusing genetically modified organisms (GMOs), on, 114; imports of, under Brezhnev, Russia’s ban on, 187,197,198 genetic diversity: lack of, and vulner ability to viral threats, 30; in Soviet breeding strategies, 199-200, 201, 203 geneticists, Russian, 180,184, 186,187— 88, 190; purges under Stalin, 90,188 genetic resources, foreign, Russian agri cultures dependence on, 125,180-81, 204, 204Г, 206, 208 27, 63—64,103; as most important Soviet commodity, 93; Putin-era policies to encourage production of, 118. See also wheat grain exports: agroholdings and, 135; during Bolshevik Revolution, 62; as foreign policy tool, 72; and global integration, 113; impact on country side, 61-62; under Putin, 12, 27, 70, Georgian cuisine, 172 7oƒ 72, 79,
89,127,127Л See also Germany, trade with, 61,120,125 wheat exports Gessen, Masha, 27,169 global food regimes, 19; technopolitical regimes and, 27 global integration: agroholdings and, 89, 91,123,135; capital investments in Russian agriculture and, 113-14, i22w; grain problem, 35, 39-40; Bolshevik government’s response to, 35, 46, 47-49; collectivization in response to, 41, 50; Khrushchev’s approach to, 51, 57-58; nature and persistence of, 41, collective farms’ inability to grow 47,177—78; New Economic Policy’s failure to solve, 35; Putin’s success in enough feed grains and, 103; and solving, 12, 82—83, 212·—13; social resis domestication, Russia’s simultaneous tance and persistence of, 41, 46-47; moves of, 213, 215-17; post-Soviet, 69, Soviet efforts to solve, 10, 40—42, 113,161—62; seed and animal genetic 47-48, 212; Soviet governments’ inability to solve, 40—41, 212; Stalin’s material and, 125,180—81; Soviet, 64, 61m, 86; technology transfers and, approach to, 41, 50, 83 113; timeline of, 88í; vulnerabilities Granberg, Leo, 68 associated with, 213, 217—24 greens fielen}, household farm produc GMO crops, Russia’s ban on, 187,197, 198 Goatibex, 47 tion of, 147 grocery stores: agroholdings and, 115; changes in post-Soviet era, 36, no,
Index 130,137,140-41,150,160,168,169, 217; imported foods in, 172; ineffi ciencies of planned economy and, 99-100; processed goods in, in 1990s, 149; Soviet-era shortages and, n, 28, 107,144,146-47,152,164-67; special, for Soviet-era political elites, 33,161, 164,166-67 Gronow, Jukka, 102,144, 164 H5N8: vulnerability of food production to, 30. See also Avian flu HACCP (hazard analysis and critical control points) food safety regulations, 123-24 Hale-Dorrell, Aaron, 41,189 Hecht, Gabrielle, 22, 23 Heinzen, James, 39—40 Holodomor, 50 Holquist, Peter, 45 home cooking: in communal kitchens, 156, I58ƒ vs. eating out, 153-56; in post-Soviet era, 160; Soviet govern ments suspicion of, 154 home production of food, nostalgia for, 12, 28,174, 221. See ako subsistence farming human-nature nexus: agriculture and, 178; agroholdings and changes in, 89, 211; and breeding strategies, 179; har monious paradigm of, 182—83; inter dependent vulnerability paradigm of, 37,183-84, 209-10, 211; Promethean paradigm of, 182,183,184; technopo litical lens on, 8-9, 37 Humphrey, Caroline, 34,147,165,167 Hungary, foods imported from, 62, 94z» hunger: market transition of 1991-92 and, 66, 68,168; in prerevolutionary Russia, 5,10, 212. See ako famines Hypor, 205, 206 ice cream, in Soviet era, 144,145/;146, 160 299 imperial Russia: land ownership in, 55; trade policies in, 61 imports: of agro-technologies, 63, 90, 96,102,134; under Brezhnev, 27, 63-64,103; food embargo of 2015 and, 12, 80-81,132,133,162; Food Security Doctrine and limits on, 71-72; under Khrushchev, 63; of processed foods, 148-49;
under Putin, 126; of Western foods, in 197OS and 1980s, 64, 65m; of Western foods, in post-Soviet era, 140, 161-62 India: foods imported from, 161; Soviet aid to, 62, 64 industrial agriculture: and convergence between US and Russian food sys tems, 31, 214; politics of, 224; Soviet, collective farms as backbone of, 10, 86; and waste and wastefhlness, 221; Western, critiques of, 131 inequality, food-related, 32-34, 162—63; global integration and, 217—18; in post-Soviet era, 33-34,141,167-70; in Soviet era, 33,139,163-67 infrastructure, rural: disintegration in post-Soviet era, 68; investments under Putin, 127 investments, in Russian agriculture: agroholdings and, in-12,ii2t; foreign, 113-14, 122m; Putin and, 127 Ioffe, Grigory, її, 109, in, 120 irrigation systems, Soviet: Brezhnev-era policies and, 58; environmental consequences of, 28, 58, 60,186; US technology and, 53 Iskander, Fazil, 47 Jacobs, Adrienne, 171 Jasanoff, Sheila, 13, 22 Jasny, Naum, 93 John Deere, 120 Kakhetinskaya pig breed, 202, 202í kasha, in Russian diet, 33, 140,168,170 Kautsky, Karl, 18
300 Index Kazakhstan: agricultural schemes and environmental consequences in, 58, 60,178; famines in, 50, 56; Virgin Lands campaign in, 57, 58, 97. See also Central Asia Khrushchev, Nikita: agricultural diplo macy with US, 61,189; agricultural policies under, 51-52, 56-58, 59, 60, 62—63, 97-98; breeding strategies under, 189; on collectivization, 51; corn crusade of, 15, 41, 57-58, 63, 98, 189; and crackdown on subsistence farming, 59,106,107; fall from power, 27, 58,135; focus on consumption and byt, 143—44; grain problem and, 51, 57—58; and Nixon, kitchen debate between, 156; and poultry production, 63, 203; rural modernization under, 39, 41, 42, 52, 58, 97-98; Virgin Lands campaign of, 5, 27, 35, 44, 57-58, 97, 134—35; visit to Moskovský State Farm, 52-, 53? Khudokormov, Igor, 114 Kiev cake, 144,161,166 Kirichenko, Fyodor, 177,179 kitchens, in communal apartments, 156, 158/ Kitchen Suprematism, 173 kolkhoz markets (kolkhoznyi rynok), 59-60; closure under Putin, 77 kolkhozy, 48, 92. See aho collective farms Korea: foods from, adoption in Russia, 172; foreign seasonal labor from, 113 Kornai, Janos, 222 Krasnodar Agricultural Research Insti tute, 193, 194; seed varieties developed and sold by, 194,195í Krasnoufimsk Breeding Station, 193 Krymka wheat variety, 184,189 kulaks, targeted under Stalin, 38, 49, 50 kumys (fermented mare’s milk), 139 labor. See employment labor shortages, in agriculture, 103—4; Soviet policies addressing, 52, 53 Ladoga wheat variety, 189 Lander, Chris, 124 land ownership: agroholdings and, 12, 77-79, 78г, 115,119; in imperial Russia, 55 Land Rush,
112 land use policies, 54-61; and agricultural production, 43; Bolshevik regime and, 55, 91; under Brezhnev, 58; under Gorbachev, 59, 60; in imperial Russia, 55; under Khrushchev, 56-58, 59; lasting impact of, 60; New Economic Policy (NEP) and, 55; privatization of 1990S and, 29; under Putin, 74, 77-79; under Stalin, 55-56; and sub sistence farming (LPKh), 58-59; under Yeltsin, 60-61, 66-68,108 Large White pig variety, 205, 206 Lavka Lavka, 131-32,174 Lenin, Vladimir: promise of bread and land, 5, 9-10, 91, 212; on transfor mation of everyday life {perestroika byta), 136 Libra pig variety, 177,181, 205, 205Г Linnik, Victor and Aleksandr, 115 Lithuania, food imports from, 133,162 Livers, Keith, 174 livestock herds, loss of: collectivization and, 85, 92, 96; reforms of 1990s and, 109 livestock production: agroholdings and, 115,126,198, 203-5; by agroholdings vs. small household farms, 84; breed ing strategies in, 184,198—207; Brezhnevs efforts to increase, 17, 53, 103; on collective farms, 93; confine ment operations in, 198, 201, 206, 207, 208-10; decline in 199OS, 68-69; “dual purpose” breeds in, i;i; fac tory farms and, 164; Khrushchevs efforts to increase, 98; public subsidies for, in Soviet era, 54; Putin-era poli cies regarding, 69, 76,126; reliance on imported parent stock in, 125, 204, 204í; in Soviet era, 200—201;
Index subsistence farming and, 105,107-8, 107Ą 147,151; viral threats in, 30, 84, 208—9, 210. See ako meat; specific types ofmeat local food movement, 12,131-32,161, i73 175 Lotman, Yuri, 9 LPKh farms (private subsidiary farms), n, 104—5; r°le in Soviet agricultural production, 86, 87,104; share of total production, 106-8,107Г, Soviet state’s policies regarding, 54-55, 56, 58-59, 98. See ako subsistence farming luxury goods, in Soviet era: affordability of, 51,144,145, 171; limited availability of, 166 Luzhkov, Yuri, 4, 82 Lysenko, Trofim, 90,187,188 Machine Tractor Stations (MTS), 50—51, 56, 96; abolition of, 57; inefficiencies of, 56 Mamonova, Natalia, 128, 131 markets: black, in Soviet era, 164; kolkhoz [kolkhoznyi rynok), yy-Go, 77; outdoor, 147-48,148/ Marx, Karl, 18 Matala, Saara, 23 McDonalds: arrival in Russia, 149,159; global integration and, 213; menu of, 160; in Russians’ daily lives, 32; supplier for, 115 McMichael, Philip, 19 meal(s), Russian: aspirational, 170-71; typical, 140,144,145,168. See ако diet meat: consumer expectations regarding, 171; cost in Soviet era, 163; food embargo of 2015 and, 132; imports of, 62, 69, no, 162; Putins promise of, 17, 27; in Russian diet, 150-53, 152Z; shortages of, 68-69, r32 ^5. See ако livestock production; meat con sumption; specific types ofmeat meat consumption: in 1970s Soviet Union, 64; democratization of, as 301 vision of good life, 17; Food Security Doctrine on, 71; increase in, 151,152Ą as marker of political success, 139—40, 150; in post-Soviet Russia, 26,153; in postwar decades, 144 Medvedev, Dmitry, 80, 81
Medvedev, Zhores, 20, 46 Mikoyan, Anastas, 16-17; on affordable luxuries, 51,144,145,171; cookbook endorsed by, 141; and food processing innovations, 102, 142 milk: increase in consumption of, 151; logistical challenges associated with, 145-46. See ако dairy millet, Soviet production of, 93 Miratorg, 115, 215; demand for feed grain, 126; export markets sought by, 124; food embargo of 2015 and, 132; government agenda and, 119; land holdings of, 78г, 115; and livestock breeding research, 205; products of, 78г, 115,153, i6o; state subsidies and growth of, 76 Mironovskaya winter wheat, 191,192yi 193 Mitchell, Timothy, 23 Moir, Sarah, 147 Monsanto, 120,186 Moskovich, Vadim, 114 Moskovskaya wheat variety, 191,194 Moss, Michael, 220 multicrop rotation, 49 Mumford, Lewis, 21 Narkozėm (People’s Commissariat of Agriculture), 46; approach to grain problem, 47—48, 49; purges of, 50 National Food Security Doctrine, 70—72 nature: as actor in agrifood systems, 24-25, 36-37, 58,177-78, 213; and humans, covulnerabilities of, 37,183— 84, 209-10, 211; and Russia’s “grain problem,” persistence of, 41, 47,17778; Soviet modernization project and, 181-82; technologies as weapons
302 Index nature (continued) against, 36. See also human-nature nexus Nefedova, Tatyana, 11,109, in, 120 Nemchinovka, 191,194; seed varieties developed and sold by, 194,195í Nérard, François-Xavier, 44 new agricultural operators (NAOs), П2. See aho agroholdings New Economic Policy (NEP), 48, 91-92; failure to solve grain problem, 35; international context and, 62; land use during, 55 New Zealand, food imports from, 64, 80,162 Nikulin, Alexander, 131 Nixon, Richard, 156,165 Norway: food imports from, 80,133,162; genetic material from, 193 nostalgia: for home-produced food, in contemporary Russia, 12, 28,174, 221; for Soviet-era products, and con temporary consumption patterns, 36, 175-76 Nove, Alec, 46, 57, 90 Novocherkassk, food riots in, 54 Novokmet, Filip, 32 obesity: in contemporary Russia, 32, 219—20; environments associated with, 219, 220; as global health problem, 219; in US, 218 ogorody (rural household farms), 11, 104 oil revenues, and subsidies to agriculture, 54.198 Olmstead, Alan, 20 outdoor markets: disappearance of, 175; and Russian diet, 147-48,148/ packaging: imported processed foods and, 149; in Soviet era, 145-46; suppli ers of, in post-Soviet era, 123 palm oil, imports of, 133 pasta (makarony), 145,146 pathogens, vulnerability of food produc tion to, 30, 84, 210 peasants, hitűre of, classical political economists on, 18-19 peasants, Russian: collectivization and, 10, 49, 92; Khrushchevs policies on, 52; “peasant problem” and, 39-40; resistance to Bolshevik campaigns, 46-47, 49, 50; restrictions on move ment of, 95; Stalins policies on, 38, 49, 50;
state control over, 50-51. See aho rural residents pelmeni: packaging of, 145, 146,150; in Russian diet, 151 PepsiCo, 102,148, 224 perestroika byta. See transformation of everyday life perishability, problem of, 99—102,107, 149 Petren pig variety, 205, 206 Piketty, Thomas, 32 planned economy, Soviet: shortages associated with, 11, 28, 36, 45,163, 214; successes of, 28, 44—45; waste and inefficiency associated with, 222 Pokhlebkin, Viľiam V., 172 Poland: food imports from, 162; grain exports to, 62; meat consumption in, 152; riots over food prices in, 63 Polanyi, Karl, 18,19 political elites, Soviet, access to privi leged foods, 33,140,163,164,165, 166 political power/legitimacy: agriculture and, 5,13, 31, 39, 83,135; food and, 5, 6-7; technologies and, 7-8,14—17, 35 politics: of agrifood systems, 224—26; agroholdings and, 82,118, 208, 224; Russian agrifood system and, 5, 6-7, 13,17, 39. See aho technopolitics Pollan, Michael, 21 pork: canned (tushonka), 151,175; import restrictions on, under Putin, 79, 80; in post-Soviet diet, 153; in Soviet diet, 151
Index pork production: African Swine Fever (ASF) scare and, 84,131; by agrohold ings, 84, 115, 206; breeding strategies, 199-203, 202Г, 205-6, 205/; confine ment operations in, 201, 206; food embargo of 2015 and, 132,133; govern ment subsidies for, in Putin era, 75-76; by household farms, 84, 130, 130Z; parent stock in, 125,180-81, 204, 205—6; post-World War II increases in, 100; Stalin regime and increase in, 51 potatoes: collective farms and challenges of growing, 99; fertilizers used in production of, 120; household farm production of, 105,107, 107Г, 108, in, 135,147, 149; in Russian diet, 140, 144,168 poultry production: agroholdings and, 115; and biosecurity threats, 208—9; confinement operations in, 207; decline in 1990S, 109; dual-purpose breeds in, 203; food embargo of 2015 and, 132,133; genetic diversity of Soviet hens, 203; genetic research and, 205, 206—7; government subsidies for, in Putin era, 75; high-efficiency broilers in, 26, 63, 203, 205, 206—7; household, decline in, 129,130; imported purebred parent stock in, 206; in post-Soviet era, 26, 75,115, 206—7; in Soviet era, 63, 203 poverty: everyday lived experience of, 32; increase in 1990S, 34, 67,167,168; in prerevolutionary Russia, 10 precision agriculture, 120 prices, consumer: artificial suppression in Soviet era, 54,163; Putins regime and control of, 71; Yeltsin’s reforms and rise in, 3-4,168 prices, procurement: as central gover nance tool of Soviet regime, 43, 47; efforts to solve grain problem and, 49; under Khrushchev, 52; “scissor” prob lem affecting collective farms, 68,109 303 privatization
of 1990s, 3, 5, 29; agro holdings as beneficiaries of, 77; bread factories (khlebozavodý) excluded from, 3; failure of, factors contribut ing to, 72; Gorbachev’s failed reforms and, 70-71; impact on farm land, 60-61, 66-67; international economic policy consensus and, 71; and transformation of farming, 87-89; unintended consequences of, 29, 35, 42, 44 processed foods: appeal of, 142; con sumer expectations regarding, 171; fast-food restaurants and, 159; history in Russia, 142,144; and obesity, 220; packaging issues associated with, 14546; in post-Soviet era, 138,148-50, 153, 160, 221; Russian, branding of, 17576; in Soviet era, 31,102-3, Σ4° 144՜ 46, 220—21; symbolic value of, 139,172 Prodimex, 78 г, 114 public, Deweys notion of, 25—26 Putin, Vladimir: agricultural policies of, 4, 5,12,13, 42-43, 69-83,198; and agroholdings, 5, 29, 35, 42—43, 72-76, 82,83,85, in, 118-19,i24 Ч5 agro-technopolitical regime under, contradictory elements of, 215—17; availability of food under, 149-50,163, 170,176, 212-13; and domestication of food production, 29, 215; failure of Yeltsin’s reforms and, 71; and food embargo, 12, 80-81,112; food sover eignty agenda of, 42, 43, 69—72, 80, 82; and foreign imports, decreased reliance on, 126; grain exports under, 12, 27, 70, 70Հ 72, 79, 89,127,127í; grain purchasing programs under, 118; and high-efficiency poultry broilers, 26; land use policies under, 74, 77—79; on main problem for agriculture, 38; and political goals for agriculture, 39, 198; and promise of better life, 15,17, 27; resurgence of nationalism under, 173-74; rural recovery
programs
304 Index Putin, Vladimir (continued) under, 69-70, 71, 87, in; state capital ism under, 69, 82, 212; state support for agriculture under, 69-70, 74-76; subsidies for agriculture under, 69, 74-76,138; success of agricultural pro duction under, 212—13; and technolog ical modernization of agriculture, 15, 38, 39,134; trade policies under, 69, 74, 79-81; transformation of agricul ture under, 5, 213, 215; visit to bread factory, 16, 16/; vulnerabilities of con temporary agro-technopolitical regime and, 225; wheat production under, 4 Reagan, Ronald, 64 Red Army (Soviet Army): challenge of feeding, 39, 46, 48, 87; food grown by, 104,105,108; meals for soldiers in, I43 151 refrigeration: invention of, and US development, 19-20; investment in, agroholdings and, 120,121í; Soviet-era challenges of, 102,146 Reid, Susan, 138,156 reindeer herds, and reindeer farming, 93, 182 research, agronomy: agroholdings and, 124-25,181, 203-5; Brezhnev-era investment in, 53; importance of, 125; in post-Soviet era, 193—98; in Soviet era, 187-93,198—99. See aho breeding restaurants: “democratic” (demokratichnyi), 169; fast-food, 149,159-60; food nationalism and, 173-74; local food movement and, 173; in post-Soviet era, 159-60; in Soviet era, 154,155-56; underground, in Soviet era, 164,165 Rhode, Paul, 20 Ries, Nancy, 149 roadside stands: disappearance of, 175; and Russian diet, 147-48,148/ Rogoff, Kenneth, 219 Romania, foods imported from, 62 Rosneft oil company, 198 Rosseľldiozbank (RusAg), subsidized credits by, 75, 76 Rosselkhoznadzor: food embargo and, 80,133; household farms targeted by, 131
rural change: agroholdings and, 5, 78-79; Brezhnev and, 39, 42; classical political economists on, 18-19; crisis of 1990S and, 168; grain exports and, 61-62; international context and, 62; Khrushchev and, 39, 41, 42, 52, 97-98; North American scholarship on, 19-20; outmigration and, 103-4,ւշ8; as prerequisite for construction of socialism, 38, 39—40; Putin and, 69-70, 71, 87, in; role of state in, 20; Stalin and, 20, 38, 51, 55-56, 87, 96-97; technologies employed to achieve, 5,12-13, 39, 86 rural labor force: in post-Soviet era, agroholdings and reduction in, 12, 30, 128,129Հ in Soviet era, labor-intensive production practices and, 52, 95, 95/ rural residents: and agroholdings, rela tionship of, 127—28; and collective farms, relationship of, 127; dis possession in post-Soviet era, 34, 218; outmigration in late 20th—early 21st century, 103-4,128; restrictions on movement of, 95; unequal access to food, in Soviet era, 10,164,165 RusAg. See Rosseľldiozbank Rusagro, 215; corporate charitable proj ects of, 128; export markets sought by, 124; land holdings of, 77, 78Ą main commodities of, 78í, 114 Russian White hen, 203 ryazhenka (fermented milk product), 33 rye, decline in cultivation of, 93; tech nological change and, 26, 97,138 Samara Agricultural Research Institute, 193,194; seed varieties developed and sold by, 194, 195г
Index Sanchez-Sibony, Oscar, 62 Saraiva, Tiago, 187 Saratov Institute, 191 Saratovskaya spring wheat, 191-93 Sätre, Ann-Mari, 68 Savchenko, Yevgeny, 78—79 SberBank, 76 Schechter, Brandon, 143 science: and changes in Russia’s agrifood system, 12-13,13^ and society, copro duction of, 22-23; as weapon against nature, 36. See ako research Scott, James, 7, 23, 31,186 seeds: hybrid, endorsement by Khru shchev, 189; imported, reliance on, 125,189,194,196,197; Russian, US imports of, 61,189; as “technologies,” 178; varieties developed and sold by Russia, 194,195Z; wheat, 125,183,184, 189-95, See also breeding seed vault, Soviet, 187 Semirechenskaya pig breed, 202, 202í Shanin, Theodor, 20 shortages: foreign consumer goods in context of, 172; as hallmark of Soviet byt, 28,140,146-47; in Khrushchev era, 52; of meat, 68-69, I52֊ r53; rising expectations and, 103; Soviet planned agriculture and, 11, 28, 36, 45,163, 214; in Yeltsin era, 66, 68-69. See ako labor shortages Siberia: agroholdings’ activities in, 1177»; food consumption in, 166; subsistence farming in, 107; Virgin Lands cam paign in, 57, 97 Siberian Agricultural Research Institute, 193, 194; seed varieties developed and sold by, 194,195í Smena chicken, 205, 207, 208 Smith, Jenny Leigh, 20, 28, 47, 95, too, 181,188 Sneddon, Chris, 23 social organization of production: changes in, 85, 87—89, 88í; collectiv ization and, 92—93; definition of, 85 305 Sorokin, Vladimir, 174 soup kitchens, 168 Soviet Army. See Red Army Soviet Large White pig breed, 202, 202í sovkhozy (state farms), 48, 92. See ako collective farms soy:
agroholdings and production of, 78, 78í, 114,115; GMO ban and, 197; Russian imports of, 132, 206, 213; seeds for, 125,195í, 196; Soviet produc tion of, 185; US exports of, 214, 224 Spoor, Max, 113,131 Sputnik-Stevenson ranch, 204 Stalin, Joseph: and affordable luxuries, 51,145,171; agricultural policies of, 49-52, 55-56, 60; collectivization under, 5, 35, 41, 50, 55-56, 85, 92, 214; grain problem and, 41, 50, 83; and Lysenko, 90,188; mechanization of farming under, 56, 96-97,134; purges under, 90,188; and rural transforma tion, 20, 38, 51, 55-56, 87, 96-97; and shift to autarky, 62 state(s): and agricultural production, 31, 43; and agricultural technologies, 20, 134; and capital, coproduction in technopolitics, 22—23; marketization and new role of, 29; policy tools to change agricultural production, 43; role in rural modernization, 20; as source of inefficiencies, international economic policy consensus on, 71; support for agriculture, under Putin, 69-70; unintended effects of, tech nopolitical lens on, 23—24, 26—27 state capitalism, under Putin, 69, 82, 212 state-owned corporations, 115—18 status, food consumption as marker of, 33-34, 2I3 steppe, expansion of field-crop farming to, 178; environmental impact of, 98-99,186 Stolichnaya Vodka, distribution in US, 102 stolovye. See canteens
306 Index Stolypin, Pyotr, 42, 55 street food, Soviet, 148 subsidies: to private farmers, in postSoviet era, 43, 69, 74-76; to state farmers, in Soviet era, 54 subsistence farming, 104—5; agroholdings and sidelining of, 113,135; and collec tive farming, mutual dependence of, li, 59,104,106,127,129; Khrushchevs crackdown on, 59,106,107; and live stock production, 107—8,107í, 151; local knowledge and domestic tech nologies and, 90-91,135; as percentage of arable land, 105; in post-Soviet era, 129—32; Putin-era policies and, 76; during reforms of 1980s and 1990s, 108—9, in; role in Soviet agricultural production, 86, 87,106-8, 107í; and Russian diet, 147—48; Soviet policies on, 54-55, 56, 58-59,106; timeline of, 88ą types of, її; variations across regions, 107; women and, 104; during World War II, 56. See also LPKh farms sugar: consumption of, steady increase in, 144; foreign imports of, in 1990s, no; import restrictions on, under Putin, 79; sourced from beets vs. sugar cane, 149; unequal access to, in Soviet era, 165; uneven availability of, in Soviet era, 144,166 sugar beets: agroholdings and produc tion of, 114,126; breeding of, Soviet history of, 196—97; fertilizers used in production of, 120—23; imported seeds for, 196,197; new technologies to refine, 100; Putin governments sup port for growers of, 76; Russian exports of, during World War I, 61; Soviet production of, 93 sunflower seeds: agroholdings and pro duction of, 78í, 114; procurement price for, Khrushchevs reforms and, 52; seeds for, 125, 196^ Soviet produc tion of, 93 sweets: in new processed foods,
138,150; in Soviet diet, 39,140,144,150,155. See abo chocolates; ice cream; sugar Syngenta, 120,186 tax exemptions, and agricultural policy under Putin, 74-75 Taylor, Frederick, 96 technological change: classical political economists on, 18,19; North Ameri can scholarship on, 19-20 technologies, food and agriculture: agroholdings and modernization of, 85, 89, 91,112, 119,120-24,121Հ 122t«, 135; under Brezhnev, 103,134; changes in 20th and 21st centuries, 10,14-16, 88Z; foreign, late adoption on Russian farms, 96-97; and global integration, 113; imported, and food safety stan dards, 123-24; imports from US, 63, 90, 96, 102, 134; inherited from Soviet collective farms, 119-20; local, 90-91; as political instruments, 7-8,14-17, 35; under Putin, 31-32, 38, 39,122m, 123,134; and rural transformation, 5, 12—13, 39 86; and social organization of production, 85; Soviet political pri orities and adoption of, 89-90; under Stalin, 56, 96-97,134; state and, 20, 134; subsidized credits supporting, in Putin era, 75, 76; subsistence farming and, 90-91, 135; unintended conse quences of, 26, 29-30, 97,134-35, ï86; as weapons against nature, 36 technopolitics, 6; and agency in agrifood systems, 24—27, 37, 225-26; as con ceptual device, 8-9,14,17-18, 37; coproduction in, 22-23; definition of, 8; Hechts formulation of, 22; and large producers, advantages for, 31; on state’s unintended effects, 23-24, 26-27; studies employing, 23. See also agro-technopolitics Teremok (fast-food chain), 175-76 Tilzey, Mark, 25
Index Tkachov, Alexander, 74 Tolstoy, Lev, 150,170,171 tractor(s): and land use practices, 56; Stalin-era “tractorization” and reliance on, 7-8, 96 trade, external, Russian policies on: and agricultural production, 43, 61-64; with Eastern European satellite states, 62, 64; in imperial era, 61; under Khrushchev, 62—63; in late 1980s, 6ým\ under Putin, 69, 74, 79—81; with US, in 1970S and 1980s, 63-64. See ako exports; imports transformation of everyday life (pere stroika hyta)·. Bolshevik Revolution and, 6, 136; fast-food restaurants and, 32; political and technological change and, 6; post-Soviet markets and, 136, 176 treats, Soviet-era, 51, 102, 103,139,144, 145f. See also chocolates; ice cream; sweets Turkey: combine harvesters rented from, 120; foreign seasonal labor from, 113; grain exports to, 72,127 Turkey Red Wheat, 61,189 tvorog (fermented milk product), 32, 34, 147 Ukraine: challenges of planned agricul ture in, 99; famines in, 50, 56; fruits and vegetables from, 93, 99,162; grain exports by, 72; Holodomor in, 50; livestock breeding research center in, 198—99; pork exports to, 133; seasonal migrant labor from, 128; transforma tion of steppes of, 178; wheat produc tion in, 61 Ukrainian White Steppe pig breed, 199 United Grain Company (UGC), 43,11518,127 United States: agricultural order in, pivotal role in 20th century, 31, 216; agrifood system in, commonalties with Russian agrifood system, 30—31, ЗО/ 214-15, 221-22; fast-food restaurants’ operations in Russia, 149,159-60; food aid to Russia, in 1991-92, 66; grain surpluses in, mixed blessing of, 214; high-
efficiency broilers developed in, 203; imports of grains from, in 1970S, 27, 63-64; imports of meat from, in 1990S, 69, no; imports of seeds from, 189,194; income inequal ity in, 32; inequality in food system of, 217; influences on Russian diet and byt, 31—32; irrigation systems in, import and replication of, 53; Khru shchev’s agricultural diplomacy with, 61,189; Khrushchevs visit to, 57; knowledge exchange with Soviet Union, 214-15; market consolidation of farming in, 214; meat consumption in, 152; Mikoyan’s visit to, 102,142; “miracle kitchen” in, 156; obesity in, 218; politics of agrifood system in, 31, 224; rural labor force in, 95, 214; Rus sian wheat seeds imported in, 61,189; small farmers in, crisis of late 1980searly 1990S, 66; technological change in, scholarship on, 19—20; technology transfers from, 63, 90, 96,102,134; vulnerabilities associated with capital ist agriculture of, 214; waste in food system of, 221; wheat yields in, vs. Soviet yields, 185,185г United States Department of Agricul ture (USDA): and grain exports to Soviet Russia, in 1970s, 63; role in industrialization of farming, 20; and wheat varieties adopted from Russia, 61 urban residents, access to food among: in post-Soviet era, 34, 140-41,168, 218; in Soviet era, 10,103,138,164 usad’by (garden plots), 54. See ako LPKh farms; subsistence farming Uzbekistan: irrigation schemes in, 82; meat consumption in, 152. See ako Central Asia
308 Index Vavilov, Nikolai I., 180,184,186,187—88, 190 Vavilov Institute of Plant Genetic Resources (VIR), 187 vegetable oils: agroholdings and produc tion of, 114; consumption of, steady increase in, 144; Russian imports of, under Brezhnev, 63 vegetables: consumption in Soviet era, 140; household farm production of, 107Л 108,147; imports in post-Soviet era, 161—62; per-capita consumption of, decrease in 1990s, 162; planned economy and challenges of produc tion, 99—100 vegetarian diet, advocates of, 143,150, 171 vernalization (iarovisatsiia), 188 viral threats: confinement farming practices and, 208-9, 2I°; genetic uniformity and vulnerability to, 30; impact on humans, 210; impact on small-scale farmers, 84,131 Virgin Lands campaign, 5, 27, 35, 44, 57-58, 97-98; failure of, 27, 44; impact of, 35,134-35 Visser, Oane, 113,128,131 vodka: debates about origins of, 172,175; marketing in US, 102; potatoes used in production of, 99; in Soviet diet, 140,143,151 Volga basin: agroholdings in, 78; Virgin Lands campaign in, 57; wheat produc tion in, 61 Vorbrugg, Alexander, 68 Voronezh, agroholdings in, 78, 79 vulnerabilities: confinement farming practices and, 208—10; global integra tion of food systems and, 213, 217—24; human-nature nexus and, 37,183-84, 209—10, 211; plant and animal breed ing and, 30,186, 207-11; as triggers of change, 28, 225; of US capitalist agri culture, 214. See aho environmental costs Wädekin, Karl-Eugen, 20, 59, 60,104, 108 waste and wastefulness: in post-Soviet food system, 223; in Soviet food system, 221—23; in US food system, 221 Wegren, Stephen,
67,161,168 West: industrial agriculture in, criticism of, 131; local food movement in, 13132; technology-intensive farming in, agroholdings adopting, 120. See also European Union; United States Western consumer goods, cult of, 172 Western foods, backlash against, 173 Western technologies, 5, 90; agrohold ings adopting, 120 wheat: genetic vulnerabilities of, 210; increased production under Khru shchev, 98; increased yields of, agro holdings and, 125—27,ւշ6է; as most common Soviet field crop, 93; revival of production under Putin, 4; rye replaced by, 26, 97; seed breeding for, 125,183,184,189-95,192^ seeds used for, 181; strength of Russian varieties of, 195, 196t; yields in Soviet Union vs. US, 185,185Г wheat exports: as foreign policy tool, 72; in imperial era, 61; main destinations for, 72, 73W; in post-Soviet era, 12, 27, 70, 72,127,127Г Wimm-Bill-Dann, 113 Winner, Langdon, 21,179 Witte, Sergey, 61 women, Soviet: and meal preparation, 156; and procurement of food items, 167; and subsistence farming, 104 World Trade Organization (WTO), Russia’s accession to, 79-80; negotia tions leading to, 79, 82 World War I: Russian agriculture dur ing, 45-46; Russian grain exports during, 62; Russian sugar beet seeds exports during, 61
Index 309 yields, 185—86; push for higher, unin tended consequences of, 186; in US vs. Soviet Union, 185,1856 214 yogurt, in Soviet vs. post-Soviet food system, 32-33, 34,142,150,168 World War II: diet during, 143; impact on agriculture, 56; Soviet rural plan ning after, 51; subsistence farming during, 59 Yeltsin, Boris: agricultural policies under, 66—69, 108, i°9; failure of reforms of, 70—71; international economic policy consensus and, 71; land use policies under, 60-61, 66-68,108; market liberalization/privatization under, 3, 5, 29, 35, 42, 44, 70-71, 87-89; new forms of stratification under, 33—34 Zaslavsky, Ilya, n, 109, in, 120 zelen (greens), household farm produc tion of, 147 Znamensk Genetic Selection Center, 205, 206 Zucman, Gabriel, 32 Bayerische Staatsbibliothek München |
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| author | Wengle, Susanne 1977- |
| author_GND | (DE-588)1139865897 |
| author_facet | Wengle, Susanne 1977- |
| author_role | aut |
| author_sort | Wengle, Susanne 1977- |
| author_variant | s w sw |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV047841683 |
| classification_rvk | NW 2425 NW 3050 |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)1256992203 (DE-599)BVBBV047841683 |
| discipline | Geschichte |
| discipline_str_mv | Geschichte |
| era | Geschichte 1917- gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 1917- |
| format | Book |
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| geographic_facet | Russland Sowjetunion |
| id | DE-604.BV047841683 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| index_date | 2024-07-03T19:12:10Z |
| indexdate | 2024-07-10T09:22:49Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9780299335403 9780299335441 |
| language | English |
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| physical | xvii, 309 Seiten Illustrationen, Diagramme, Karten |
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| spelling | Wengle, Susanne 1977- Verfasser (DE-588)1139865897 aut Black earth, white bread a technopolitical history of Russian agriculture and food Susanne A. Wengle Wisconsin University of Wisconsin Press [2022] © 2022 xvii, 309 Seiten Illustrationen, Diagramme, Karten txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Geschichte 1917- gnd rswk-swf Getreidehandel (DE-588)4020796-1 gnd rswk-swf Agrarpolitik (DE-588)4000771-6 gnd rswk-swf Agrarproduktion (DE-588)4068471-4 gnd rswk-swf Getreidebau (DE-588)4020792-4 gnd rswk-swf Landwirtschaft (DE-588)4034402-2 gnd rswk-swf Russland (DE-588)4076899-5 gnd rswk-swf Sowjetunion (DE-588)4077548-3 gnd rswk-swf Sowjetunion (DE-588)4077548-3 g Russland (DE-588)4076899-5 g Landwirtschaft (DE-588)4034402-2 s Agrarproduktion (DE-588)4068471-4 s Agrarpolitik (DE-588)4000771-6 s Getreidebau (DE-588)4020792-4 s Getreidehandel (DE-588)4020796-1 s Geschichte 1917- z DE-604 Digitalisierung BSB München - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033224736&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis Digitalisierung BSB München - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033224736&sequence=000003&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Literaturverzeichnis Digitalisierung BSB München - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033224736&sequence=000005&line_number=0003&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Register // Gemischte Register |
| spellingShingle | Wengle, Susanne 1977- Black earth, white bread a technopolitical history of Russian agriculture and food Getreidehandel (DE-588)4020796-1 gnd Agrarpolitik (DE-588)4000771-6 gnd Agrarproduktion (DE-588)4068471-4 gnd Getreidebau (DE-588)4020792-4 gnd Landwirtschaft (DE-588)4034402-2 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4020796-1 (DE-588)4000771-6 (DE-588)4068471-4 (DE-588)4020792-4 (DE-588)4034402-2 (DE-588)4076899-5 (DE-588)4077548-3 |
| title | Black earth, white bread a technopolitical history of Russian agriculture and food |
| title_auth | Black earth, white bread a technopolitical history of Russian agriculture and food |
| title_exact_search | Black earth, white bread a technopolitical history of Russian agriculture and food |
| title_exact_search_txtP | Black earth, white bread a technopolitical history of Russian agriculture and food |
| title_full | Black earth, white bread a technopolitical history of Russian agriculture and food Susanne A. Wengle |
| title_fullStr | Black earth, white bread a technopolitical history of Russian agriculture and food Susanne A. Wengle |
| title_full_unstemmed | Black earth, white bread a technopolitical history of Russian agriculture and food Susanne A. Wengle |
| title_short | Black earth, white bread |
| title_sort | black earth white bread a technopolitical history of russian agriculture and food |
| title_sub | a technopolitical history of Russian agriculture and food |
| topic | Getreidehandel (DE-588)4020796-1 gnd Agrarpolitik (DE-588)4000771-6 gnd Agrarproduktion (DE-588)4068471-4 gnd Getreidebau (DE-588)4020792-4 gnd Landwirtschaft (DE-588)4034402-2 gnd |
| topic_facet | Getreidehandel Agrarpolitik Agrarproduktion Getreidebau Landwirtschaft Russland Sowjetunion |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033224736&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033224736&sequence=000003&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=033224736&sequence=000005&line_number=0003&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
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