Burial textiles: textile bits and pieces in central Sweden, AD 500-800
This thesis concerns the role and use of archaeological textiles (AT) deposited in inhumation and cremation burials in Sweden dating from 500-800 AD. The AT are studied in their burial context, including all other grave goods, emphasizing that they were as important as a source for understanding soc...
Gespeichert in:
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| Format: | Abschlussarbeit Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
Stockholm
Department of Archaeology and Classical Studies, Stockholm University
2020
|
| Schriftenreihe: | Theses and papers in archaeology. B
13 |
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| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Zusammenfassung: | This thesis concerns the role and use of archaeological textiles (AT) deposited in inhumation and cremation burials in Sweden dating from 500-800 AD. The AT are studied in their burial context, including all other grave goods, emphasizing that they were as important as a source for understanding society in prehistory as they are today. Textiles take a long time to produce, from the collection and gathering of raw materials such as wool, flax, silk, seaweed, birch bark, bast, bulrush, down and feathers and dyestuffs, to spinning, fulling, dyeing, weaving and skin and fur preparation, and finally to garment production. Furthermore, weaving and other types of handicraft demand logical thinking and creativity, in order to transform an idea into reality. Despite the fact that textile reconstructions are so time-consuming and require both knowledge and know-how, reconstructions of prehistoric clothing in publications or in museums are often based on very few facts, and these are mostly obtained from the small fragments of prehistoric burial textiles that have been preserved. A total of 108 Swedish graves containing AT are discussed in this thesis, dating from the Bronze Age up to the beginning of the Viking Age. During the period in question there was a gradual change in the material culture and burial customs, although two major changes in AT can be observed, around 550 and 800 AD. Around 550 AD a new elite boat-burial tradition started in the Mälaren Valley in Uppland in which the textiles included new non-figurative patterned fabrics such as soumak, honeycomb and warp or weft float. These fabrics occurred most frequently in the Early and Middle Merovingian Periods, and many of them probably came from the Continent as gifts, exchange goods, status articles, etc. It is also possible that skilled, imaginative weavers in Sweden invented some of the textile techniques [...]. |
| Beschreibung: | 217 Seiten Illustrationen, Diagramme, Karten (teilweise farbig) |
| ISBN: | 9789177979258 |
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| 520 | 3 | |a This thesis concerns the role and use of archaeological textiles (AT) deposited in inhumation and cremation burials in Sweden dating from 500-800 AD. The AT are studied in their burial context, including all other grave goods, emphasizing that they were as important as a source for understanding society in prehistory as they are today. Textiles take a long time to produce, from the collection and gathering of raw materials such as wool, flax, silk, seaweed, birch bark, bast, bulrush, down and feathers and dyestuffs, to spinning, fulling, dyeing, weaving and skin and fur preparation, and finally to garment production. Furthermore, weaving and other types of handicraft demand logical thinking and creativity, in order to transform an idea into reality. Despite the fact that textile reconstructions are so time-consuming and require both knowledge and know-how, reconstructions of prehistoric clothing in publications or in museums are often based on very few facts, and these are mostly obtained from the small fragments of prehistoric burial textiles that have been preserved. A total of 108 Swedish graves containing AT are discussed in this thesis, dating from the Bronze Age up to the beginning of the Viking Age. During the period in question there was a gradual change in the material culture and burial customs, although two major changes in AT can be observed, around 550 and 800 AD. Around 550 AD a new elite boat-burial tradition started in the Mälaren Valley in Uppland in which the textiles included new non-figurative patterned fabrics such as soumak, honeycomb and warp or weft float. These fabrics occurred most frequently in the Early and Middle Merovingian Periods, and many of them probably came from the Continent as gifts, exchange goods, status articles, etc. It is also possible that skilled, imaginative weavers in Sweden invented some of the textile techniques [...]. | |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
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| adam_text | Contents Abbreviations.................................................. x Notes to the reader........................................ x Preface............................................................xi 1. Introduction.................................................1 1.1 Archaeological textiles........................1 1.2 Definitions of Swedish prehistoric periods.................................................3 1.3 Costumes, needed or wanted, and .. differing in function and status........3 1.4 History of Scandinavian textile research................................... 4 2. AT Materials and techniques.....................7 2.1 Textile raw materials.......................... 7 2.2 Thread and textile techniques........14 2.3 Preservation..................................... 28 3. Early archaeological textiles................... 32 3.1 The first traces of archaeological...... textiles............................................... 32 3.2 Early AT in Europe prior to the Merovingian Period..........................37 3.3 Main types of costumes in Scandi navia prior to the Merovingian Period................................................48 3.4 Burial customs and AT..................... 59 4. Analytical methods..................................64 4.1 Documentation................................ 64 4.2 Preparatory methods...................... 64 4.3 Anatyses........................................... 65 5. Sites studied.............................................. 69 5.1 Introduction......................................69 5.2
Vendel.............................................. 70 5.3 Valsgärde.......................................... 72 5.4 Old Uppsala...................................... 74 5.5 Birka................................................. 74 6. Earlier textile investigations................... 76 6.1 Vendel............................................... 76 6.2 Valsgärde..........................................76 6.3 Old Uppsala......................................76 6.4 Birka.................................................76 6.5 Comparative AT from elsewhere in Uppland............................................ 77 6.6 Comparative AT from various Swe dish sites outside Uppland...............81 6.7 Comparative AT from areas outside Sweden.............................................81 7. Vendel XII, Vendel XIV and Valsgärde 8....83 7.1 Introduction......................................... 83 7.2 Vendel XII.............................................83 7.3 Vendel XIV............................................ 86 7.4 Valsgärde 8.......................................... 86 7.5 Material................................................. 87 7.6 Results.................................................. 90 7.7 What had the AT in Vendel XII been used for?............................................ 105 7.8 Dressed or undressed?...................... 106 7.9 Does a change in society mean a change in grave AT?.......................... 107 7.10 Boat-grave textile fashions..............112 7.11 Conclusions.......................................114 8. The grave under the hillfort rampart
at Birka....................................116 8.1 Introduction........................................116 8.2 Material...............................................118 8.3 Results................................................ 119 8.4 The fabrics..........................................126 8.5 Garments and dress.........................130 8.6 A pagan or a Christian burial?..........133 8.7 Conclusions....................................... 135 9. Valsgärde 13..................................................136 9.1 Introduction....................................... 136 9.2 AT material.........................................138 9.3 Results................................................138 9.4 Comparable Swedish AT..................153 9.5 Valsgärde 13 in perspective.............. 168 9.6 Conclusions...................................... 169 10. Discussion..................................................... 172 10.1 Textile values - valued textiles...... 172 10.2 Facts and fiction...............................176 10.3 The cultural setting......................... 182 10.4 Early AT ........................................... 187 10.5 Sixth-century AT in Sweden.......... 188 10.6 Seventh-eighth century AT in Sweden.......................................... 189 10.7 Boat-grave AT in Uppland ..............189 10.8 Elite burial AT in the Mälaren Valley.................................................. 193 11. Final conclusions........................................ 196 12. Sammanfattning......................................... 198 13.
References.................................................... 200 IX
|
| adam_txt |
Contents Abbreviations. x Notes to the reader. x Preface.xi 1. Introduction.1 1.1 Archaeological textiles.1 1.2 Definitions of Swedish prehistoric periods.3 1.3 Costumes, needed or wanted, and . differing in function and status.3 1.4 History of Scandinavian textile research. 4 2. AT Materials and techniques.7 2.1 Textile raw materials. 7 2.2 Thread and textile techniques.14 2.3 Preservation. 28 3. Early archaeological textiles. 32 3.1 The first traces of archaeological. textiles. 32 3.2 Early AT in Europe prior to the Merovingian Period.37 3.3 Main types of costumes in Scandi navia prior to the Merovingian Period.48 3.4 Burial customs and AT. 59 4. Analytical methods.64 4.1 Documentation. 64 4.2 Preparatory methods. 64 4.3 Anatyses. 65 5. Sites studied. 69 5.1 Introduction.69 5.2
Vendel. 70 5.3 Valsgärde. 72 5.4 Old Uppsala. 74 5.5 Birka. 74 6. Earlier textile investigations. 76 6.1 Vendel. 76 6.2 Valsgärde.76 6.3 Old Uppsala.76 6.4 Birka.76 6.5 Comparative AT from elsewhere in Uppland. 77 6.6 Comparative AT from various Swe dish sites outside Uppland.81 6.7 Comparative AT from areas outside Sweden.81 7. Vendel XII, Vendel XIV and Valsgärde 8.83 7.1 Introduction. 83 7.2 Vendel XII.83 7.3 Vendel XIV. 86 7.4 Valsgärde 8. 86 7.5 Material. 87 7.6 Results. 90 7.7 What had the AT in Vendel XII been used for?. 105 7.8 Dressed or undressed?. 106 7.9 Does a change in society mean a change in grave AT?. 107 7.10 Boat-grave textile fashions.112 7.11 Conclusions.114 8. The grave under the hillfort rampart
at Birka.116 8.1 Introduction.116 8.2 Material.118 8.3 Results. 119 8.4 The fabrics.126 8.5 Garments and dress.130 8.6 A pagan or a Christian burial?.133 8.7 Conclusions. 135 9. Valsgärde 13.136 9.1 Introduction. 136 9.2 AT material.138 9.3 Results.138 9.4 Comparable Swedish AT.153 9.5 Valsgärde 13 in perspective. 168 9.6 Conclusions. 169 10. Discussion. 172 10.1 Textile values - valued textiles. 172 10.2 Facts and fiction.176 10.3 The cultural setting. 182 10.4 Early AT . 187 10.5 Sixth-century AT in Sweden. 188 10.6 Seventh-eighth century AT in Sweden. 189 10.7 Boat-grave AT in Uppland .189 10.8 Elite burial AT in the Mälaren Valley. 193 11. Final conclusions. 196 12. Sammanfattning. 198 13.
References. 200 IX |
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| series | Theses and papers in archaeology. B |
| series2 | Theses and papers in archaeology. B |
| spelling | Malmius, Anita 1945- Verfasser (DE-588)1239692919 aut Burial textiles textile bits and pieces in central Sweden, AD 500-800 Anita Malmius Stockholm Department of Archaeology and Classical Studies, Stockholm University 2020 217 Seiten Illustrationen, Diagramme, Karten (teilweise farbig) txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Theses and papers in archaeology. B 13 Dissertation Stockholms universitet 2020 This thesis concerns the role and use of archaeological textiles (AT) deposited in inhumation and cremation burials in Sweden dating from 500-800 AD. The AT are studied in their burial context, including all other grave goods, emphasizing that they were as important as a source for understanding society in prehistory as they are today. Textiles take a long time to produce, from the collection and gathering of raw materials such as wool, flax, silk, seaweed, birch bark, bast, bulrush, down and feathers and dyestuffs, to spinning, fulling, dyeing, weaving and skin and fur preparation, and finally to garment production. Furthermore, weaving and other types of handicraft demand logical thinking and creativity, in order to transform an idea into reality. Despite the fact that textile reconstructions are so time-consuming and require both knowledge and know-how, reconstructions of prehistoric clothing in publications or in museums are often based on very few facts, and these are mostly obtained from the small fragments of prehistoric burial textiles that have been preserved. A total of 108 Swedish graves containing AT are discussed in this thesis, dating from the Bronze Age up to the beginning of the Viking Age. During the period in question there was a gradual change in the material culture and burial customs, although two major changes in AT can be observed, around 550 and 800 AD. Around 550 AD a new elite boat-burial tradition started in the Mälaren Valley in Uppland in which the textiles included new non-figurative patterned fabrics such as soumak, honeycomb and warp or weft float. These fabrics occurred most frequently in the Early and Middle Merovingian Periods, and many of them probably came from the Continent as gifts, exchange goods, status articles, etc. It is also possible that skilled, imaginative weavers in Sweden invented some of the textile techniques [...]. Geschichte 500-800 gnd rswk-swf Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 gnd rswk-swf Funde (DE-588)4071507-3 gnd rswk-swf Bootgrab (DE-588)4146291-9 gnd rswk-swf Uppland (DE-588)4119315-5 gnd rswk-swf Mittelschweden (DE-588)4039708-7 gnd rswk-swf Humanities and the Arts History and Archaeology Archaeology (DE-588)4113937-9 Hochschulschrift gnd-content Mittelschweden (DE-588)4039708-7 g Uppland (DE-588)4119315-5 g Bootgrab (DE-588)4146291-9 s Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 s Funde (DE-588)4071507-3 s Geschichte 500-800 z DE-604 Theses and papers in archaeology. B 13 (DE-604)BV009836949 13 Digitalisierung BSB München - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=032839393&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Malmius, Anita 1945- Burial textiles textile bits and pieces in central Sweden, AD 500-800 Theses and papers in archaeology. B Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 gnd Funde (DE-588)4071507-3 gnd Bootgrab (DE-588)4146291-9 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4059615-1 (DE-588)4071507-3 (DE-588)4146291-9 (DE-588)4119315-5 (DE-588)4039708-7 (DE-588)4113937-9 |
| title | Burial textiles textile bits and pieces in central Sweden, AD 500-800 |
| title_auth | Burial textiles textile bits and pieces in central Sweden, AD 500-800 |
| title_exact_search | Burial textiles textile bits and pieces in central Sweden, AD 500-800 |
| title_exact_search_txtP | Burial textiles textile bits and pieces in central Sweden, AD 500-800 |
| title_full | Burial textiles textile bits and pieces in central Sweden, AD 500-800 Anita Malmius |
| title_fullStr | Burial textiles textile bits and pieces in central Sweden, AD 500-800 Anita Malmius |
| title_full_unstemmed | Burial textiles textile bits and pieces in central Sweden, AD 500-800 Anita Malmius |
| title_short | Burial textiles |
| title_sort | burial textiles textile bits and pieces in central sweden ad 500 800 |
| title_sub | textile bits and pieces in central Sweden, AD 500-800 |
| topic | Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 gnd Funde (DE-588)4071507-3 gnd Bootgrab (DE-588)4146291-9 gnd |
| topic_facet | Textilien Funde Bootgrab Uppland Mittelschweden Hochschulschrift |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=032839393&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| volume_link | (DE-604)BV009836949 |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT malmiusanita burialtextilestextilebitsandpiecesincentralswedenad500800 |