Fashion, society, and the First World War: international perspectives
"The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone una...
Gespeichert in:
| Weitere Verfasser: | , , |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
London ; New York, NY ; Oxford ; New Delhi ; Sydney
Bloomsbury Visual Arts
2021
|
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Zusammenfassung: | "The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world. With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture. Through analysis of archives, visual chronicles, press, and garments, and covering an impressive range of topics, from the feathered showgirl in Paris to the evolution of pilots' uniforms, these exciting essays show how fashion, even temporarily, encouraged the articulation of an identity, a society, and a nation"-- "This book is the first of its kind to study the impact that the Great War had on fashion, the fashion industry and civilians in a transnational context"-- |
| Beschreibung: | xxi, 324 Seiten |
| ISBN: | 9781350119864 9781350231177 |
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| 505 | 8 | 0 | |t Timeline -- |t Introduction |r Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie Kurkdjian |t The reconfiguration of the international couture industry -- |t Wartime marketing of Parisian haute couture in the United States, 1914-1917 |r Mary Lynn Stewart |t Boué Surs : "Compelled by the war" |r Waleria Dorogova |t "Gladdening the hearts of warriors" : The relationship between Lucile's romantic fashions and morale in the First World War |r Georgina Ripley |t Die Kriegskrinoline : A feminine fashion between past and future |r Birgit Haase |t Fashion in Belgium during the First World War and the case of Norine Couture |r Nele Bernheim |t The materiality of wartime fashion and textile industries -- |t Dressed to quill : The origin and significance of the feathered showgirl in First World War Paris |r Emily Brayshaw |t Between fashion and folk : Dress practices in Alsace during the First World War |r Sara Hume |t The lace industry in Belgium and France during the First World War |r Marguerite Coppens |t Industrial and handmade clothing production in the Netherlands : A neutral country during the First World War |r Marta Kargól |t Wartime fabrics in the historical archives of Como weavers and in the collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti |r Margherita Rosina |t Problematic uniforms : Male and female experiences and secondHand trade networks -- |t "Breeched, booted, and cropped": A dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain's Women's Land Army, 1917-1919 |r Amy de la Haye |t The French home front in 1914-1918 : An investigation into female workwear |r Jérémie Brucker |
| 505 | 8 | 0 | |t Rushing to suit up : French aviation's adjustment to wartime uniforms, 1914-1916 |r Guillaume de Syon |t The spoils of war : Use and transformations of secondHand uniforms during the First World War in France |r Manuel Charpy |t Fashion in print : Questions of national fashion and gender -- |t The gentleman turned "enemy" : Men's fashion in the Hungarian press, 1914-1918 |r Zsolt Mészáros |t The politics of fashion: German fashion writings in times of war |r Burcu Dogramaci |t The Italian fashion magazine Margherita : The war, women, and the call for a "Moda Italiana", 1914-1918 |r Enrica Morini |t Le Flambeau's fashion discourse during the First World War : Towards a retrograde femininity? |r Nigel Lezama |t Is beauty useless? Fashion, gender, and British wartime society in Punch magazine, 1915 |r Andrea Kollnitz |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
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| adam_text | Contents List of illustrations x Acknowledgments xiii A note on translations xv Timeline xvi Introduction і Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie Kurkdjian Part One The reconfiguration of the international couture industry 15 1 Wartime marketing of Parisian haute couture in the United States, 1914-17 Mary Lynn Stewart 2 Boué Sœurs: “Compelled by the War” Waleria Dorogova 3 “Gladdening the hearts of warriors”: The relationship between Luciles romantic fashions and morale in the First World War 46 Georgina Ripley 4 Die Kriegskrinoline: A feminine fashion between past and future Birgit Haase 5 Fashion in Belgium during the First World War and the case of Norine Couture Nele Bernheim 17 29 59 72
viii Contents Part Two The materiality of wartime fashion and textile industries 89 6 Dressed to quill: The origin and significance of the feathered showgirl in First World War Paris 91 Emily Brayshaw 7 Between fashion and folk: Dress practices in Alsace during the First World War ios Sara Hume 8 The lace industry in France and Belgium during the First World War Marguerite Coppens 9 Industrial and homemade clothing production in the Netherlands: A neutral country during the First World War 134 Marta Kargól 122 10 Wartime fabrics in the historical archives of Como weavers and in the collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti ısı Margherita Rosina Part Three Problematic uniforms: Male and female experiences and secondhand trade networks ібз 11 “Breeched, booted, and cropped”: A dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain’s Womens Land Army, 1917-19 165 Amy de la Haye 12 The French home front in 1914-18: An investigation into female workwear Jérémie Brucker 182 13 Rushing to suit up: French aviations adjustment to wartime uniforms, 1914-16 Guillaume de Syön 14 The spoils of war: Use and transformations of secondhand uniforms during the First World War in France 208 Manuel Charpy 197
Contents ix Part Four Fashion in print: Questions of national fashion and gender 15 The gentleman turned “enemy”: Mens fashion in the Hungarian press, 1914-18 Zsolt Mészáros 16 The politics of fashion: German fashion writings in times of war Burcu Doğramacı 229 231 246 17 The Italian fashion magazine Margherita: The war, women, and the call for a “Moda Italiana,” 1914-18 260 Enrica Morini 18 Le Flambeaus fashion discourse during the First World War: Towards a retrograde femininity? 272 Nigel Lezama 19 Is beauty useless? Fashion, gender, and British wartime society in Punch Magazine, 19 1 5 288 Andrea Kollnitz Notes on contributors 309 Index 315
|
| adam_txt |
Contents List of illustrations x Acknowledgments xiii A note on translations xv Timeline xvi Introduction і Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie Kurkdjian Part One The reconfiguration of the international couture industry 15 1 Wartime marketing of Parisian haute couture in the United States, 1914-17 Mary Lynn Stewart 2 Boué Sœurs: “Compelled by the War” Waleria Dorogova 3 “Gladdening the hearts of warriors”: The relationship between Luciles romantic fashions and morale in the First World War 46 Georgina Ripley 4 Die Kriegskrinoline: A feminine fashion between past and future Birgit Haase 5 Fashion in Belgium during the First World War and the case of Norine Couture Nele Bernheim 17 29 59 72
viii Contents Part Two The materiality of wartime fashion and textile industries 89 6 Dressed to quill: The origin and significance of the feathered showgirl in First World War Paris 91 Emily Brayshaw 7 Between fashion and folk: Dress practices in Alsace during the First World War ios Sara Hume 8 The lace industry in France and Belgium during the First World War Marguerite Coppens 9 Industrial and homemade clothing production in the Netherlands: A neutral country during the First World War 134 Marta Kargól 122 10 Wartime fabrics in the historical archives of Como weavers and in the collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti ısı Margherita Rosina Part Three Problematic uniforms: Male and female experiences and secondhand trade networks ібз 11 “Breeched, booted, and cropped”: A dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain’s Womens Land Army, 1917-19 165 Amy de la Haye 12 The French home front in 1914-18: An investigation into female workwear Jérémie Brucker 182 13 Rushing to suit up: French aviations adjustment to wartime uniforms, 1914-16 Guillaume de Syön 14 The spoils of war: Use and transformations of secondhand uniforms during the First World War in France 208 Manuel Charpy 197
Contents ix Part Four Fashion in print: Questions of national fashion and gender 15 The gentleman turned “enemy”: Mens fashion in the Hungarian press, 1914-18 Zsolt Mészáros 16 The politics of fashion: German fashion writings in times of war Burcu Doğramacı 229 231 246 17 The Italian fashion magazine Margherita: The war, women, and the call for a “Moda Italiana,” 1914-18 260 Enrica Morini 18 Le Flambeaus fashion discourse during the First World War: Towards a retrograde femininity? 272 Nigel Lezama 19 Is beauty useless? Fashion, gender, and British wartime society in Punch Magazine, 19 1 5 288 Andrea Kollnitz Notes on contributors 309 Index 315 |
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| author_additional | Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie Kurkdjian Mary Lynn Stewart Waleria Dorogova Georgina Ripley Birgit Haase Nele Bernheim Emily Brayshaw Sara Hume Marguerite Coppens Marta Kargól Margherita Rosina Amy de la Haye Jérémie Brucker Guillaume de Syon Manuel Charpy Zsolt Mészáros Burcu Dogramaci Enrica Morini Nigel Lezama Andrea Kollnitz |
| author_facet | Bass-Krueger, Maude 1985- Edwards-Dujardin, Hayley Kurkdjian, Sophie 1985- |
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| contents | Timeline -- Introduction The reconfiguration of the international couture industry -- Wartime marketing of Parisian haute couture in the United States, 1914-1917 Boué Surs : "Compelled by the war" "Gladdening the hearts of warriors" : The relationship between Lucile's romantic fashions and morale in the First World War Die Kriegskrinoline : A feminine fashion between past and future Fashion in Belgium during the First World War and the case of Norine Couture The materiality of wartime fashion and textile industries -- Dressed to quill : The origin and significance of the feathered showgirl in First World War Paris Between fashion and folk : Dress practices in Alsace during the First World War The lace industry in Belgium and France during the First World War Industrial and handmade clothing production in the Netherlands : A neutral country during the First World War Wartime fabrics in the historical archives of Como weavers and in the collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti Problematic uniforms : Male and female experiences and secondHand trade networks -- "Breeched, booted, and cropped": A dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain's Women's Land Army, 1917-1919 The French home front in 1914-1918 : An investigation into female workwear Rushing to suit up : French aviation's adjustment to wartime uniforms, 1914-1916 The spoils of war : Use and transformations of secondHand uniforms during the First World War in France Fashion in print : Questions of national fashion and gender -- The gentleman turned "enemy" : Men's fashion in the Hungarian press, 1914-1918 The politics of fashion: German fashion writings in times of war The Italian fashion magazine Margherita : The war, women, and the call for a "Moda Italiana", 1914-1918 Le Flambeau's fashion discourse during the First World War : Towards a retrograde femininity? Is beauty useless? Fashion, gender, and British wartime society in Punch magazine, 1915 |
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| illustrated | Not Illustrated |
| index_date | 2024-07-03T17:27:52Z |
| indexdate | 2024-07-10T09:08:44Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9781350119864 9781350231177 |
| language | English |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-032720271 |
| oclc_num | 1246628635 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | DE-12 |
| owner_facet | DE-12 |
| physical | xxi, 324 Seiten |
| psigel | BSBWK1 |
| publishDate | 2021 |
| publishDateSearch | 2021 |
| publishDateSort | 2021 |
| publisher | Bloomsbury Visual Arts |
| record_format | marc |
| spelling | Fashion, society, and the First World War international perspectives edited by Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian London ; New York, NY ; Oxford ; New Delhi ; Sydney Bloomsbury Visual Arts 2021 xxi, 324 Seiten txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Timeline -- Introduction Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie Kurkdjian The reconfiguration of the international couture industry -- Wartime marketing of Parisian haute couture in the United States, 1914-1917 Mary Lynn Stewart Boué Surs : "Compelled by the war" Waleria Dorogova "Gladdening the hearts of warriors" : The relationship between Lucile's romantic fashions and morale in the First World War Georgina Ripley Die Kriegskrinoline : A feminine fashion between past and future Birgit Haase Fashion in Belgium during the First World War and the case of Norine Couture Nele Bernheim The materiality of wartime fashion and textile industries -- Dressed to quill : The origin and significance of the feathered showgirl in First World War Paris Emily Brayshaw Between fashion and folk : Dress practices in Alsace during the First World War Sara Hume The lace industry in Belgium and France during the First World War Marguerite Coppens Industrial and handmade clothing production in the Netherlands : A neutral country during the First World War Marta Kargól Wartime fabrics in the historical archives of Como weavers and in the collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti Margherita Rosina Problematic uniforms : Male and female experiences and secondHand trade networks -- "Breeched, booted, and cropped": A dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain's Women's Land Army, 1917-1919 Amy de la Haye The French home front in 1914-1918 : An investigation into female workwear Jérémie Brucker Rushing to suit up : French aviation's adjustment to wartime uniforms, 1914-1916 Guillaume de Syon The spoils of war : Use and transformations of secondHand uniforms during the First World War in France Manuel Charpy Fashion in print : Questions of national fashion and gender -- The gentleman turned "enemy" : Men's fashion in the Hungarian press, 1914-1918 Zsolt Mészáros The politics of fashion: German fashion writings in times of war Burcu Dogramaci The Italian fashion magazine Margherita : The war, women, and the call for a "Moda Italiana", 1914-1918 Enrica Morini Le Flambeau's fashion discourse during the First World War : Towards a retrograde femininity? Nigel Lezama Is beauty useless? Fashion, gender, and British wartime society in Punch magazine, 1915 Andrea Kollnitz "The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world. With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture. Through analysis of archives, visual chronicles, press, and garments, and covering an impressive range of topics, from the feathered showgirl in Paris to the evolution of pilots' uniforms, these exciting essays show how fashion, even temporarily, encouraged the articulation of an identity, a society, and a nation"-- "This book is the first of its kind to study the impact that the Great War had on fashion, the fashion industry and civilians in a transnational context"-- Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd rswk-swf Erster Weltkrieg (DE-588)4079163-4 gnd rswk-swf Gesellschaft (DE-588)4020588-5 gnd rswk-swf Fashion / History / 20th century Women's clothing / History / 20th century World War, 1914-1918 / Social aspects Fashion Social aspects Women's clothing 1900-1999 History (DE-588)4143413-4 Aufsatzsammlung gnd-content Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 s Gesellschaft (DE-588)4020588-5 s Erster Weltkrieg (DE-588)4079163-4 s DE-604 Bass-Krueger, Maude 1985- (DE-588)119914164X edt Edwards-Dujardin, Hayley (DE-588)1198230975 edt Kurkdjian, Sophie 1985- (DE-588)1068923032 edt Erscheint auch als Online version 9781350119871 Fashion, society and the first world war 1st New York : Bloomsbury Publishing (UK), 2021 Digitalisierung BSB München - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=032720271&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Fashion, society, and the First World War international perspectives Timeline -- Introduction The reconfiguration of the international couture industry -- Wartime marketing of Parisian haute couture in the United States, 1914-1917 Boué Surs : "Compelled by the war" "Gladdening the hearts of warriors" : The relationship between Lucile's romantic fashions and morale in the First World War Die Kriegskrinoline : A feminine fashion between past and future Fashion in Belgium during the First World War and the case of Norine Couture The materiality of wartime fashion and textile industries -- Dressed to quill : The origin and significance of the feathered showgirl in First World War Paris Between fashion and folk : Dress practices in Alsace during the First World War The lace industry in Belgium and France during the First World War Industrial and handmade clothing production in the Netherlands : A neutral country during the First World War Wartime fabrics in the historical archives of Como weavers and in the collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti Problematic uniforms : Male and female experiences and secondHand trade networks -- "Breeched, booted, and cropped": A dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain's Women's Land Army, 1917-1919 The French home front in 1914-1918 : An investigation into female workwear Rushing to suit up : French aviation's adjustment to wartime uniforms, 1914-1916 The spoils of war : Use and transformations of secondHand uniforms during the First World War in France Fashion in print : Questions of national fashion and gender -- The gentleman turned "enemy" : Men's fashion in the Hungarian press, 1914-1918 The politics of fashion: German fashion writings in times of war The Italian fashion magazine Margherita : The war, women, and the call for a "Moda Italiana", 1914-1918 Le Flambeau's fashion discourse during the First World War : Towards a retrograde femininity? Is beauty useless? Fashion, gender, and British wartime society in Punch magazine, 1915 Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Erster Weltkrieg (DE-588)4079163-4 gnd Gesellschaft (DE-588)4020588-5 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4039792-0 (DE-588)4079163-4 (DE-588)4020588-5 (DE-588)4143413-4 |
| title | Fashion, society, and the First World War international perspectives |
| title_alt | Timeline -- Introduction The reconfiguration of the international couture industry -- Wartime marketing of Parisian haute couture in the United States, 1914-1917 Boué Surs : "Compelled by the war" "Gladdening the hearts of warriors" : The relationship between Lucile's romantic fashions and morale in the First World War Die Kriegskrinoline : A feminine fashion between past and future Fashion in Belgium during the First World War and the case of Norine Couture The materiality of wartime fashion and textile industries -- Dressed to quill : The origin and significance of the feathered showgirl in First World War Paris Between fashion and folk : Dress practices in Alsace during the First World War The lace industry in Belgium and France during the First World War Industrial and handmade clothing production in the Netherlands : A neutral country during the First World War Wartime fabrics in the historical archives of Como weavers and in the collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti Problematic uniforms : Male and female experiences and secondHand trade networks -- "Breeched, booted, and cropped": A dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain's Women's Land Army, 1917-1919 The French home front in 1914-1918 : An investigation into female workwear Rushing to suit up : French aviation's adjustment to wartime uniforms, 1914-1916 The spoils of war : Use and transformations of secondHand uniforms during the First World War in France Fashion in print : Questions of national fashion and gender -- The gentleman turned "enemy" : Men's fashion in the Hungarian press, 1914-1918 The politics of fashion: German fashion writings in times of war The Italian fashion magazine Margherita : The war, women, and the call for a "Moda Italiana", 1914-1918 Le Flambeau's fashion discourse during the First World War : Towards a retrograde femininity? Is beauty useless? Fashion, gender, and British wartime society in Punch magazine, 1915 |
| title_auth | Fashion, society, and the First World War international perspectives |
| title_exact_search | Fashion, society, and the First World War international perspectives |
| title_exact_search_txtP | Fashion, society, and the First World War international perspectives |
| title_full | Fashion, society, and the First World War international perspectives edited by Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian |
| title_fullStr | Fashion, society, and the First World War international perspectives edited by Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian |
| title_full_unstemmed | Fashion, society, and the First World War international perspectives edited by Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian |
| title_short | Fashion, society, and the First World War |
| title_sort | fashion society and the first world war international perspectives |
| title_sub | international perspectives |
| topic | Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Erster Weltkrieg (DE-588)4079163-4 gnd Gesellschaft (DE-588)4020588-5 gnd |
| topic_facet | Mode Erster Weltkrieg Gesellschaft Aufsatzsammlung |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=032720271&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
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