Dress codes: how the laws of fashion made history
Gespeichert in:
| 1. Verfasser: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
New York ; London ; Toronto ; Sydney ; New Delhi
Simon & Schuster
February 2021
|
| Ausgabe: | First Simon & Schuster hardcover edition |
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Beschreibung: | xi, 443 Seiten, 16 ungezählte Seiten Tafeln Illustrationen |
| ISBN: | 9781501180064 1501180061 |
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| adam_text | Contents Historical Milestones and Important Dress Codes xii Introduction і PART ONE: STATUS SYMBOLS Chapter One: Encoding Status 25 Concerning the Excessive Display of Trunk Hose, Crowns, Ruffled Collars, Velvet, and Crimson Silk Chapter Two: Self-Fashioning 38 Regarding Togas, Gowns, Robes, and Tailored Clothing Chapter Three: Signs of Faith 46 On the Matter ofDresses with Indulgently Long Trains, Earrings and Other Vanities, and on the Habits of Women Religious—Inspired by Christian Dior Chapter Four: Sex Symbols 67 On the Subject ofPlate Armor and Associated Undergarments, Masks, and Costumes PART TWO: FROM OPULENCE TO ELEGANCE Chapter Five: The Great Masculine Renunciation 79 On the Frock Coat, Tartan and Kilt, Civilian Uniforms, and Powdered Wigs, Both Large and Modest Chapter Six: Style and Status 100 The Importance of the Well-Dressed Man’s Basic Black Suit and the Elegant Woman’s Eight Daily Toilettes; the Prevalence of Silk and Velvet Waistcoats and the Art of the Perfectly Tied Cravat
x CONTENTS Chapter Seven: Sex and Simplicity 109 The Merits of Tailored Coats, Whaleboned Corsets, Full Skirts and Petticoats, and Neoclassical Gowns Chapter Eight: The “Rational Dress” Movement 126 The Inconveniences ofBloomers, Tight-laced Corsets, Starched Collared Shirts, and Suits with Short Trousers Chapter Nine: Flapper Feminism 143 The Scandal ofDrop-waisted Shifts, Bobbed Hair, Cupid’s Bow Lips, Dancing Flats, Bakelite Earrings, and the Symington Side Lacer PART THREE: POWER DRESSING Chapter Ten: Slaves to Fashion? 157 The Allure and Danger ofDressing Above One’s Condition in Pumps with Silver Buckles, a Hat Cocked in the Macaroni Fashion, or a Jack Johnson Plaid Suit Chapter Eleven: From Rags to Resistance 168 Seen on the Scene: Zoot Suits, Cotillion Gowns, Pressed Hair, and Sunday Best; Afros and Overalls, Dashikis, Black Turtlenecks, and Black Leather Coats Chapter Twelve: Sagging and Subordination 196 Represent the Race! Don’t Wear Sagging Pants, Gang Colors, Hoodie Sweatshirts, or Decorative Orthodontic Devices (aka Grillz) PART FOUR: POLITICS AND PERSONALITY Chapter Thirteen: How to Dress Like a Woman 221 Your Personal Best: Teased, Curled, or Styled Hair, Lipstick, Foundation, Eyeliner, Blush, Bunny Ears and Satin Maillot, High Heels. Overdoing it: Bared Clavicles, Yoga Pants, Miniskirts, “Smart’’Jeans. In Re. Ladies in the Law: Skirts, Nylons, Makeup, Nothing Low-Cut, a Feminized Morning Suit
CONTENTS Chapter Fourteen: Recoding Gender xi 261 Clothing Not Belonging to Your Sex: Prom Night Tuxedoes, Blue (or Pink) for Boys, Pink (or Blue) for Girls, Miniskirts, Tutus, and Tailored Suits Chapter Fifteen: Piercing the Veil 273 Outlawed as Indecent or Condemned as Sacrilegious: Headscarves, Burkas, Burkinis, Bikinis, Sexy Sheitels, Hip Hijabs, and Covergirl Makeup PART FIVE: RETAILORED EXPECTATIONS Chapter Sixteen: Merit Badges 295 Appropriatefor the Workplace: Red-Soled Louboutins, a 21 Club Tie, a Blue Blazer, the Preppy Look, Red Sneakers, a Patagonia Vest, a Gray or Black T-shirt. Inappropriate: Designer Dresses, High Heels, Suits Chapter Seventeen: Artifice and Appropriation 329 Outfitsfor Cultural Tourism: Bleached Blonde Hair, Dreadlocks, Hoop Earrings, a Cheongsam, a Pink Polo, an Abacost, European Luxury Tailoring Conclusion: Decoding Dress Codes 355 Epilogue: Dress Codes Stripped Bare 373 Notes 375 Selected Bibliography 41s Acknowledgments 421 Index 42ζ Image Credits 441
|
| adam_txt |
Contents Historical Milestones and Important Dress Codes xii Introduction і PART ONE: STATUS SYMBOLS Chapter One: Encoding Status 25 Concerning the Excessive Display of Trunk Hose, Crowns, Ruffled Collars, Velvet, and Crimson Silk Chapter Two: Self-Fashioning 38 Regarding Togas, Gowns, Robes, and Tailored Clothing Chapter Three: Signs of Faith 46 On the Matter ofDresses with Indulgently Long Trains, Earrings and Other Vanities, and on the Habits of Women Religious—Inspired by Christian Dior Chapter Four: Sex Symbols 67 On the Subject ofPlate Armor and Associated Undergarments, Masks, and Costumes PART TWO: FROM OPULENCE TO ELEGANCE Chapter Five: The Great Masculine Renunciation 79 On the Frock Coat, Tartan and Kilt, Civilian Uniforms, and Powdered Wigs, Both Large and Modest Chapter Six: Style and Status 100 The Importance of the Well-Dressed Man’s Basic Black Suit and the Elegant Woman’s Eight Daily Toilettes; the Prevalence of Silk and Velvet Waistcoats and the Art of the Perfectly Tied Cravat
x CONTENTS Chapter Seven: Sex and Simplicity 109 The Merits of Tailored Coats, Whaleboned Corsets, Full Skirts and Petticoats, and Neoclassical Gowns Chapter Eight: The “Rational Dress” Movement 126 The Inconveniences ofBloomers, Tight-laced Corsets, Starched Collared Shirts, and Suits with Short Trousers Chapter Nine: Flapper Feminism 143 The Scandal ofDrop-waisted Shifts, Bobbed Hair, Cupid’s Bow Lips, Dancing Flats, Bakelite Earrings, and the Symington Side Lacer PART THREE: POWER DRESSING Chapter Ten: Slaves to Fashion? 157 The Allure and Danger ofDressing Above One’s Condition in Pumps with Silver Buckles, a Hat Cocked in the Macaroni Fashion, or a Jack Johnson Plaid Suit Chapter Eleven: From Rags to Resistance 168 Seen on the Scene: Zoot Suits, Cotillion Gowns, Pressed Hair, and Sunday Best; Afros and Overalls, Dashikis, Black Turtlenecks, and Black Leather Coats Chapter Twelve: Sagging and Subordination 196 Represent the Race! Don’t Wear Sagging Pants, Gang Colors, Hoodie Sweatshirts, or Decorative Orthodontic Devices (aka Grillz) PART FOUR: POLITICS AND PERSONALITY Chapter Thirteen: How to Dress Like a Woman 221 Your Personal Best: Teased, Curled, or Styled Hair, Lipstick, Foundation, Eyeliner, Blush, Bunny Ears and Satin Maillot, High Heels. Overdoing it: Bared Clavicles, Yoga Pants, Miniskirts, “Smart’’Jeans. In Re. Ladies in the Law: Skirts, Nylons, Makeup, Nothing Low-Cut, a Feminized Morning Suit
CONTENTS Chapter Fourteen: Recoding Gender xi 261 Clothing Not Belonging to Your Sex: Prom Night Tuxedoes, Blue (or Pink) for Boys, Pink (or Blue) for Girls, Miniskirts, Tutus, and Tailored Suits Chapter Fifteen: Piercing the Veil 273 Outlawed as Indecent or Condemned as Sacrilegious: Headscarves, Burkas, Burkinis, Bikinis, Sexy Sheitels, Hip Hijabs, and Covergirl Makeup PART FIVE: RETAILORED EXPECTATIONS Chapter Sixteen: Merit Badges 295 Appropriatefor the Workplace: Red-Soled Louboutins, a 21 Club Tie, a Blue Blazer, the Preppy Look, Red Sneakers, a Patagonia Vest, a Gray or Black T-shirt. Inappropriate: Designer Dresses, High Heels, Suits Chapter Seventeen: Artifice and Appropriation 329 Outfitsfor Cultural Tourism: Bleached Blonde Hair, Dreadlocks, Hoop Earrings, a Cheongsam, a Pink Polo, an Abacost, European Luxury Tailoring Conclusion: Decoding Dress Codes 355 Epilogue: Dress Codes Stripped Bare 373 Notes 375 Selected Bibliography 41s Acknowledgments 421 Index 42ζ Image Credits 441 |
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