Benjamin on fashion:
Reconstructing Benjamin's complex, fragmentary, yet influential ideas about fashion, this book defines Benjamin's fashion theory, beginning with Convolute B: Fashion in the German thinker's Arcades Project (1927-1940), tracing it through Theses on the Concept of History and beyond. Br...
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| 1. Verfasser: | |
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| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
London ; New York ; Oxford ; New Delhi ; Sydney
Bloomsbury Academic
2020
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| Schriftenreihe: | Walter Benjamin studies
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| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Zusammenfassung: | Reconstructing Benjamin's complex, fragmentary, yet influential ideas about fashion, this book defines Benjamin's fashion theory, beginning with Convolute B: Fashion in the German thinker's Arcades Project (1927-1940), tracing it through Theses on the Concept of History and beyond. Bringing Benjamin's work into discussion with a number of important but frequently overlooked sources, Philipp Ekardt shows the relevance of Georg Simmel's fashion sociology, art historian Henri Focillon's morphological theories of form, and the writings of German fashion critic Helen Grund, who introduced Benjamin to the fashion scene of his time. Systematically investigating fashion as the 'temporalized processing of difference', as emerging from a reading of Simmel's fashion sociology, Ekardt shows how this idea is modified in Benjamin's fashion-informed philosophies of history and the image, as well as considering how Benjamin's concept of materiality can be related to clothing, and in contrast to an aesthetic of elegance. He tackles the grounding of fashion in sex through morphological motifs in Benjamin's fashion theory, examining the shifts from the androgynous looks of 1920s, to the overtly gender-signposted silhouettes of the 1930s. Pointing to surprising parallels in the overall historical thrust of the Arcades Project - to work through the 19th century - and the fashionable resurgence of Belle Epoque styles while Benjamin was at work on his project, Ekardt also makes a case for understanding fashion as key to appreciating the historical significance and prescience of Benjamin's unfinished magnum opus |
| Beschreibung: | Hier auch später erschienene, unveränderte Nachdrucke |
| Beschreibung: | xvi, 237 Seiten Illustrationen 24 cm |
| ISBN: | 9781350262324 |
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| 520 | 3 | |a Reconstructing Benjamin's complex, fragmentary, yet influential ideas about fashion, this book defines Benjamin's fashion theory, beginning with Convolute B: Fashion in the German thinker's Arcades Project (1927-1940), tracing it through Theses on the Concept of History and beyond. Bringing Benjamin's work into discussion with a number of important but frequently overlooked sources, Philipp Ekardt shows the relevance of Georg Simmel's fashion sociology, art historian Henri Focillon's morphological theories of form, and the writings of German fashion critic Helen Grund, who introduced Benjamin to the fashion scene of his time. Systematically investigating fashion as the 'temporalized processing of difference', as emerging from a reading of Simmel's fashion sociology, Ekardt shows how this idea is modified in Benjamin's fashion-informed philosophies of history and the image, as well as considering how Benjamin's concept of materiality can be related to clothing, and in contrast to an aesthetic of elegance. He tackles the grounding of fashion in sex through morphological motifs in Benjamin's fashion theory, examining the shifts from the androgynous looks of 1920s, to the overtly gender-signposted silhouettes of the 1930s. Pointing to surprising parallels in the overall historical thrust of the Arcades Project - to work through the 19th century - and the fashionable resurgence of Belle Epoque styles while Benjamin was at work on his project, Ekardt also makes a case for understanding fashion as key to appreciating the historical significance and prescience of Benjamin's unfinished magnum opus | |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
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Contents List of illustrations Acknowledgments List of abbreviations Fashion-Forward Benjamin: A Brief Introduction - Fashion-forward Benjamin viii xi xvii 1 1 - A qualifying remark: The limits of this study and the positivity of fashion 9 - Textual basis 11 Part One 1 Time/Fashion Models On Some Systematic Aspects of Benjamin’s Fashion Theory 15 - Has fashion ever been modern? 15 - Fashion as model and as chronotechnics 18 - Benjamins fashion passage 20 - From phenomena in time to models of time 25 - Fashion changes little 26 - Being in fashion, being form (Simmel) 29 ֊ Differentials of time and deviations of direction 36 - Any pasts contemporary: Fashion as a temporal qualifier (the sentimental education of the discontinuous) 40 - Yesterday, and the day before (sorting time and what has gone out of style) 43 - Zeitkern (time kernel) 45 - The ends of Benjamin’s time/fashion model I: Revolution 48 - The ends of Benjamin’s time/fashion model II: Historical apocastasis 52
Contents VI Part Two 2 Benjamin and the Fashion of his Time The Contingent Primacy of Sex(es) 59 ֊ A sudden affluence: The view of garments gliding by 59 - Waists are up, skirts are down ( 1929/1930) 64 - An onscreen vignette: L’Herbier, Helm, Louiseboulanger 67 - Should Benjamin have attended fashion shows? Helen Grund, the expert - The only contemporaneous fashion thinker 75 77 - The contingent primacy of sex 78 - (Schiaparelli’s) Genital millinery 83 - Fashion, whores, Surrealists (The pitfalls of allegory and the forgetting of labor) 95 - Beyond the logic of the placeholder. Schiaparelli’s (and Dora Benjamin’s) fashion work 3 98 - Morphology of the silhouette (Benjamin vs. Focillon) 102 In/Elegant Materialisms 105 - Grunds additional notes on the essence of fashion (an unpublished fragment from the Walter Benjamin-Archiv) 105 - A theory of elegance: The animation of garments according to Helen Grund 107 ֊ Theory of modeling 110 - The immanence of elegance - Taking it to the industry 113 114 - Thing and dress (Schiaparelli, Apollinaire) 116 - The extraneous temporality of the fashion phenomenon 128 - The supple and the rigid: Two tendencies in 1930s Paris 4 Couture—Vionnet and the Pavilion de l’Élégance 134 - Versions of inertia: Persistence of the fashion form 149 - The non-givenness of material 151 - Materialism à la mode 156 The Tiger’s Leap and the Expression of History 163 - The charm of the previous century 163 - Striking a note in fashion history 174
Contents - Morphology in history: Time as ground vii 176 - The tigers leap as expression of the economy (Benjamin’s fashion ideology) 180 Notes 187 Bibliography 223 Index 233 |
| adam_txt |
Contents List of illustrations Acknowledgments List of abbreviations Fashion-Forward Benjamin: A Brief Introduction - Fashion-forward Benjamin viii xi xvii 1 1 - A qualifying remark: The limits of this study and the positivity of fashion 9 - Textual basis 11 Part One 1 Time/Fashion Models On Some Systematic Aspects of Benjamin’s Fashion Theory 15 - Has fashion ever been modern? 15 - Fashion as model and as chronotechnics 18 - Benjamins fashion passage 20 - From phenomena in time to models of time 25 - Fashion changes little 26 - Being in fashion, being form (Simmel) 29 ֊ Differentials of time and deviations of direction 36 - Any pasts contemporary: Fashion as a temporal qualifier (the sentimental education of the discontinuous) 40 - Yesterday, and the day before (sorting time and what has gone out of style) 43 - Zeitkern (time kernel) 45 - The ends of Benjamin’s time/fashion model I: Revolution 48 - The ends of Benjamin’s time/fashion model II: Historical apocastasis 52
Contents VI Part Two 2 Benjamin and the Fashion of his Time The Contingent Primacy of Sex(es) 59 ֊ A sudden affluence: The view of garments gliding by 59 - Waists are up, skirts are down ( 1929/1930) 64 - An onscreen vignette: L’Herbier, Helm, Louiseboulanger 67 - Should Benjamin have attended fashion shows? Helen Grund, the expert - The only contemporaneous fashion thinker 75 77 - The contingent primacy of sex 78 - (Schiaparelli’s) Genital millinery 83 - Fashion, whores, Surrealists (The pitfalls of allegory and the forgetting of labor) 95 - Beyond the logic of the placeholder. Schiaparelli’s (and Dora Benjamin’s) fashion work 3 98 - Morphology of the silhouette (Benjamin vs. Focillon) 102 In/Elegant Materialisms 105 - Grunds additional notes on the essence of fashion (an unpublished fragment from the Walter Benjamin-Archiv) 105 - A theory of elegance: The animation of garments according to Helen Grund 107 ֊ Theory of modeling 110 - The immanence of elegance - Taking it to the industry 113 114 - Thing and dress (Schiaparelli, Apollinaire) 116 - The extraneous temporality of the fashion phenomenon 128 - The supple and the rigid: Two tendencies in 1930s Paris 4 Couture—Vionnet and the Pavilion de l’Élégance 134 - Versions of inertia: Persistence of the fashion form 149 - The non-givenness of material 151 - Materialism à la mode 156 The Tiger’s Leap and the Expression of History 163 - The charm of the previous century 163 - Striking a note in fashion history 174
Contents - Morphology in history: Time as ground vii 176 - The tigers leap as expression of the economy (Benjamin’s fashion ideology) 180 Notes 187 Bibliography 223 Index 233 |
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| spelling | Ekardt, Philipp Verfasser (DE-588)1046396021 aut Benjamin on fashion Pihlipp Ekardt London ; New York ; Oxford ; New Delhi ; Sydney Bloomsbury Academic 2020 xvi, 237 Seiten Illustrationen 24 cm txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Walter Benjamin studies Hier auch später erschienene, unveränderte Nachdrucke Reconstructing Benjamin's complex, fragmentary, yet influential ideas about fashion, this book defines Benjamin's fashion theory, beginning with Convolute B: Fashion in the German thinker's Arcades Project (1927-1940), tracing it through Theses on the Concept of History and beyond. Bringing Benjamin's work into discussion with a number of important but frequently overlooked sources, Philipp Ekardt shows the relevance of Georg Simmel's fashion sociology, art historian Henri Focillon's morphological theories of form, and the writings of German fashion critic Helen Grund, who introduced Benjamin to the fashion scene of his time. Systematically investigating fashion as the 'temporalized processing of difference', as emerging from a reading of Simmel's fashion sociology, Ekardt shows how this idea is modified in Benjamin's fashion-informed philosophies of history and the image, as well as considering how Benjamin's concept of materiality can be related to clothing, and in contrast to an aesthetic of elegance. He tackles the grounding of fashion in sex through morphological motifs in Benjamin's fashion theory, examining the shifts from the androgynous looks of 1920s, to the overtly gender-signposted silhouettes of the 1930s. Pointing to surprising parallels in the overall historical thrust of the Arcades Project - to work through the 19th century - and the fashionable resurgence of Belle Epoque styles while Benjamin was at work on his project, Ekardt also makes a case for understanding fashion as key to appreciating the historical significance and prescience of Benjamin's unfinished magnum opus Benjamin, Walter 1892-1940 (DE-588)118509039 gnd rswk-swf Kleidung Motiv (DE-588)4114220-2 gnd rswk-swf Massenkultur (DE-588)4125858-7 gnd rswk-swf Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd rswk-swf Mode Motiv (DE-588)4133997-6 gnd rswk-swf Ästhetik (DE-588)4000626-8 gnd rswk-swf Fashion / Philosophy Benjamin, Walter 1892-1940 (DE-588)118509039 p Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 s Massenkultur (DE-588)4125858-7 s DE-604 Mode Motiv (DE-588)4133997-6 s Kleidung Motiv (DE-588)4114220-2 s Ästhetik (DE-588)4000626-8 s Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe, PDF 978-1-3500-7598-6 Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe 978-1-3500-7600-6 Digitalisierung BSB München - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=032036280&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
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| title_short | Benjamin on fashion |
| title_sort | benjamin on fashion |
| topic | Benjamin, Walter 1892-1940 (DE-588)118509039 gnd Kleidung Motiv (DE-588)4114220-2 gnd Massenkultur (DE-588)4125858-7 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Mode Motiv (DE-588)4133997-6 gnd Ästhetik (DE-588)4000626-8 gnd |
| topic_facet | Benjamin, Walter 1892-1940 Kleidung Motiv Massenkultur Mode Mode Motiv Ästhetik |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=032036280&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT ekardtphilipp benjaminonfashion |