Verfügbarkeit: Fashion and materiality

Fashion and materiality: cultural practices in global contexts

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Bibliographische Detailangaben
Weitere Verfasser:	Jenß, Heike 1970- (HerausgeberIn), Hofmann, Viola 1969-2023 (HerausgeberIn)
Format:	Buch
Sprache:	English
Veröffentlicht:	London ; New York ; Oxford ; New Delhi ; Sydney Bloomsbury Visual Arts 2020
Schlagworte:	Geschichte Kleidung Mode Textilien Migration Globalisierung Handel Material Körper Fashion Material culture Aufsatzsammlung
Online-Zugang:	Inhaltsverzeichnis Inhaltsverzeichnis
Beschreibung:	Hier auch später erschienene, unveränderte Nachdrucke
Beschreibung:	xiii, 297 Seiten Illustrationen 24 cm
ISBN:	9781350057814 9781350228078

Internformat

MARC


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Datensatz im Suchindex

_version_	1804180753625382912
adam_text	CONTENTS LIST OF FIGURES IX ACKNOWLEDGMENTS XII INTRODUCTION: FASHION AND MATERIALITY 1 HEIKE JENSS AND VIOLA HOFMANN SECTION ONE FASHION AND CLOTHING: MATERIALS IN TIME AND PLACE INTRODUCTION 13 1 MATERIAL SUBJECTS: MAKING PLACE, MAKING TIME THROUGH FASHION 21 SUSAN B. KAISER 2 DRESSED LIVES: BIOGRAPHY, EMOTION, AND MATERIALITY 38 CHRISTEL KOHLE-HEZINGER 3 THE DISCOVERY OF MATERIALITY: ARCHEOLOGICAL CLOTHING FINDS, REPRESENTATION, AND KNOWLEDGE FORMATION 59 DANIEL DEVOUCOUX 4 APPROPRIATING THE WORLD THROUGH CLOTHING: CHRISTOPH KRESS S FOREIGN DRESS COLLECTION 78 JUTTA ZANDER-SEIDEL SECTION TWO MATERIALITY IN MOTION: GLOBAL CIRCUITS OF FASHION INTRODUCTION 97 5 CHINOISERIE IN FASHION: MATERIAL IMAGES CIRCULATING BETWEEN CHINA AND EUROPE 105 DANIEL LEONHARD PURDY 6 TRADITION IN FASHION: GOLDEN EMBROIDERY AND THE CRAFTING OF HERITAGE IN BUKHARA 123 LOLA SHAMUKHITDINOVA 7 OUR DRESS : CHITENGE AS ZAMBIA S NATIONAL FABRIC 140 KAREN TRANBERG HANSEN 8 MADE IN CHINA : MATERIAL MEANDERINGS OF FAST-FASHION CITIES 157 CHRISTINA H. MOON YJII CONTENTS SECTION THREE MATERIALITY AND EMBODIMENT INTRODUCTION 175 9 SENSORIAL COSMOLOGIES: FASHION DESIGN AND THE EMBODIED PRACTICES OF THE WEARER 181 LEYLA BELKA ID-NERI 10 THE LEFT-HAND POSE: ALCHEMIC REALISM AND THE INTRA-ACTION OF MUSIC, BODY, AND DRESS IN METAL YOGA 198 OTTO VON BUSCH 11 FEELING PREMIUM : ATHLEISURE AND THE MATERIAL TRANSFORMATION OF SPORTSWEAR 214 JENNIFER CRAIK SECTION FOUR MATERIAL EXCHANGES: FASHION AND MIGRATION INTRODUCTION 233 12 INTERNATIONAL FASHION SHOWS: CREATING TRANSCULTURAL RELATIONSHIPS THROUGH CLOTHING 241 * ANDREA HAUSER 13 ENTANGLED HISTORIES: FASHION AND THE POLITICS OF MIGRATION 260 ELKE GAUGELE NOTES ON CONTRIBUTORS S ~ ,77 INDEX 2G3 FIGURES 1.1 MARCHERS MAKE PLACE (WASHINGTON, DC) AND TIME (JANUARY 21,2017) FOR WOMEN S RIGHTS. PHOTO: MARIO TAMA/ GETTY IMAGES 22 1.2 A WOMAN AT THE WOMEN S MARCH IN BERLIN (JANUARY 21,2017) WEARS AN AMERICAN FLAG AS A HEADSCARF, SIMILAR TO THE POSTER NEARBY. WITH HER OWN SIGN, SHE REMINDS US THAT MATERIAL SUBJECTS HAVE AGENCY AS THEY MOVE THROUGH SPACE AND ARTICULATE INTERSECTIONALITY (E.G., GENDER, ETHNICITY, RELIGION, NATION). PHOTO: STEFFI LOOS/ GETTY IMAGES 24 1.3 THE MOTHERS OF THE MOVEMENT (WHOSE SONS HAVE DIED BECAUSE OF GUN VIOLENCE) FOSTER A BRIDGE BETWEEN BLACK LIVES MATTER AND WOMEN S RIGHTS AT THE MARCH ON WASHINGTON, DC. FOUR WEAR PINK PUSSY HATS. PHOTO: NOAM GALAL/ GETTY IMAGES 33 2.1 MARIE FREEH, PORTRAIT TAKEN IN PHOTO STUDIO UTZ IN FELLBACH AROUND 1920. PHOTO: STADTMUSEUM FELLBACH 41 2.2 MARIE FREEH (NEE EBINGER) AND HER HUSBAND WILHELM FREEH ON THEIR WEDDING DAY IN FRONT OF THEIR HOUSE IN FELLBACH, 1933. PHOTO: STADTMUSEUM FELLBACH 43 2.3 MARIE FREEH S CLOTHES HANGING ABOVE BOOKS BY MICHAEL HAHN IN HER BEDROOM. PHOTO TAKEN FOR THE EXHIBITION OF HER HOUSE IN FELLBACH (1995). PHOTO: STADTMUSEUM FELLBACH 46 2.4 MARIE FREEH SHOWN AS AN OLDER WOMAN, IN FRONT OF HER HARMONIUM. PHOTO: STADTMUSEUM FELLBACH 55 3.1 FLORAL COLLAR FROM TUTANKHAMUN S EMBALMING CACHE (CA. 1336-1327 BCE). PHOTO: METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART 62 3.2 LIMESTONE YOUTH (EARLY SIXTH CENTURY BCE) DRESSED IN EGYPTIAN KILT OR SHENTI. PHOTO: METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART 64 3.3 EMBROIDERED CHASUBLE BACK OUT OF ITALIAN VELVET (LATE FOURTEENTH CENTURY). PHOTO: LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART 69 4.1 POSTHUMOUS PORTRAIT OF CHRISTOPH KRESS (COPPER ENGRAVING, AROUND 1700). PHOTO: GERMANISCHES NATIONALMUSEUM 79 FIGURES 4.2 TURKISH GARMENT COLLECTED IN THE KUNSTKAMMERN, DONATED TO THE NUREMBERG PUBLIC LIBRARY (AROUND 1683). PHOTO: GERMANISCHES NATIONALMUSEUM 86 4.3 TURCO DI GRADO IN CASA, ILLUSTRATION IN CESARE VECELLIO S COSTUME BOOK, 1598. PHOTO: GERMANISCHES NATIONALMUSEUM 87 5.1 PETER PAUL RUBENS PORTRAIT OF NICHOLAS TRIGAULT, A FLEMISH JESUIT MISSIONARY IN CHINA, 1617. THE PORTRAIT WAS PAINTED WHILE TRIGAULT VISITED THE CITY OF ANTWERP FOR FUND-RAISING PURPOSES. HE WEARS A KOREAN CAP AND THE ROBE OF A CHINESE SCHOLAR. PHOTO: METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART 106 5.2 GOWN A LAFRANCAISE WITH A CHINOISERIE PATTERN. SILK SATIN WITH SILK AND METAL THREAD. AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS (1740-1760). PHOTO: LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART 108 5.3 MAN S AT-HOME ROBE (BANYAN); ROBE FROM THE NETHERLANDS DATED 1750-1760, MADE FROM CHINESE TEXTILE, SILK SATIN AND SILK PLAIN WEAVE (DAMASSE) DATED 1700-1750. PHOTO: LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART 117 6.1 THE GOLDEN EMBROIDERY PROCESS IN ZARKON FACTORY, BUKHARA (2013). PHOTO: LOLA SHAMUKHITDINOVA 130 6.2 THE OPENING OF THE FASHION SHOW AND NATIONAL DRESS CONTEST DURING TASHKENT ART WEEK (2013). PHOTO: LOLA SHAMUKHITDINOVA 134 6.3 SKULLCAPS SOLD AT THE BAZAAR IN OLD BUKHARA (2013). PHOTO: LOLA SHAMUKHITDINOVA 135 7.1 COAT OF ARMS, THE REPUBLIC OF ZAMBIA 142 7.2 ZAMBIAN WOMEN WEARING CHITENGE. POSTAGE STAMP DRAWN BY ZAMBIAN ARTIST GABRIEL ELLISON (1972). PHOTO: KAREN TRANBERG HANSEN 143 7.3 WOMEN DRESSED FOR A PARTY: ONE (LEFT) IN TAILOR-MADE OFFICE WEAR, AND THREE IN CHITENGE OUTFITS (THE SECOND WOMAN FROM THE LEFT WEARS A NIGERIAN BOUBOU ) LUSAKA (2002). PHOTO: KAREN TRANBERG HANSEN. PREVIOUSLY PUBLISHED IN: KAREN TRANBERG HANSEN. 2017. FROM GRANDMOTHER S DRESS TO THE FASHION RUNWAY. CHITENGE STYLES IN ZAMBIA. IN AFRICAN-PRINT FASHION NOW! A STORY OF TASTE, GLOBALIZATION, AND STYLE, EDITED BY SUZANNE GOTT, KRISTYNE S. LOUGHRAN, BETSY D. QUICK, AND LESLIE W. RABINE, 160-61. LOS ANGELES: FOWLER MUSEUM AT UCLA 147 FIGURES 8.1 SPOOLS OF THREAD TO MAKE TEXTILES, HONG KONG (JUNE, 2015). PHOTO: CHRISTINA MOON 164 8.2 EXTERIOR OF MIGRANT RESIDENCE IN BAISHIZHOU VILLAGE (JUNE, 2015). PHOTO: CHRISTINA MOON 167 8.3 STOREFRONT OF A BOUTIQUE IN SHANGHAI (JUNE, 2015). PHOTO: CHRISTINA MOON 169 8.4 MADE IN CHINA ON THE SELVAGE OF FABRIC, EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY, DISPLAYED AT THE SHANGHAI MUSEUM OF TEXTILES AND COSTUME AT DONGHUA UNIVERSITY. PHOTO: CHRISTINA MOON 172 9.1 SETSUKO S PERSONAL STYLE AND CREATIVE COSMOS, WEARING HER PHILLIP LIM T-SHIRT WITH NEW YORK CITY PRINT. PHOTO: LEYLA BELKAI D-NERI 187 9.2 ELEANORA WEARING HER 3.1 PHILLIP LIM PANTS AS A DECOMMODIFIED FASHION OBJECT. PHOTO: LEYLA BELKAID-NERI 189 9.3 JOHANNA WEARING HER FLYING TOP. PHOTO: LEYLA BELKAID-NERI 192 10.1 METAL YOGA BONES LOGO. COPYRIGHT: SASKIA THODE 200 10.2 WARMUP FOR METAL YOGA. PHOTO: OTTO VON BUSCH 204 10.3 GROUP SESSION OF METAL YOGA. PHOTO: OTTO VON BUSCH 210 11.1 DETAIL OF ACTIVEWEAR BY LULULEMON. CLASSIC SPORTSWEAR PIECES WITH TECHNOLOGICAL FEATURES (FLAT SEAMS, SMOOTH, STRETCHABLE MATERIALS, LIGHTWEIGHT, PERMEABLE/ABSORBENT). PHOTO: JULIE MACINDOE 215 11.2 STREET IMAGE OF ATHLEISURE. PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES 220 11.3 STORE DISPLAY OF LEGGINGS. P/IO TO: GETTY IMAGES 226 12.1 INTERNATIONAL FASHION SHOW, BREMEN CENTRAL STATION. PHOTO: SABINE PRIOLETTI 246 12.2 WOMEN AT THE INTERNATIONAL FASHION SHOW, BREMEN, PRESENTING CLOTHING FROM OR INSPIRED BY THEIR HOME COUNTRIES. PHOTO: SABINE PRIOLETTI 248 12.3 INTERNATIONAL FASHION SHOW, AT THE COMMUNITY CENTER (MUTTERZENTRUM) IN OSTERHOLZ-TENEVER, BREMEN. PHOTO: MEDIENGRUPPE KREISZEITUNG/ MARTIN KOWALEWSKI 252 13.1 BACKSTAGE AT PRADA FALL/WINTER, 2016, MILAN FASHION WEEK, ITALY. PHOTO: VIRGINA ARCARO 261 13.2 FOULARD UNTOLD RENAISSANCE DESIGNED BY WALE OYEJIDE, AFTER MIGRATION COLLECTION FALL/WINTER, 2016. PHOTO: IKERE JONES DESIGN ARCHIVE 265
any_adam_object	1
author2	Jenß, Heike 1970- Hofmann, Viola 1969-2023
author2_role	edt edt
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author_GND	(DE-588)133554104 (DE-588)1062516966
author_facet	Jenß, Heike 1970- Hofmann, Viola 1969-2023
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dewey-ones	391 - Costume and personal appearance
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dewey-search	391
dewey-sort	3391
dewey-tens	390 - Customs, etiquette, folklore
discipline	Kunstgeschichte Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft
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genre	(DE-588)4143413-4 Aufsatzsammlung gnd-content
genre_facet	Aufsatzsammlung
id	DE-604.BV046292059
illustrated	Illustrated
indexdate	2024-07-10T08:40:46Z
institution	BVB
isbn	9781350057814 9781350228078
language	English
oai_aleph_id	oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-031669509
oclc_num	1129466700
open_access_boolean
owner	DE-255 DE-523 DE-11
owner_facet	DE-255 DE-523 DE-11
physical	xiii, 297 Seiten Illustrationen 24 cm
publishDate	2020
publishDateSearch	2020
publishDateSort	2020
publisher	Bloomsbury Visual Arts
record_format	marc
spelling	Fashion and materiality cultural practices in global contexts edited by Heike Jenss and Viola Hofmann London ; New York ; Oxford ; New Delhi ; Sydney Bloomsbury Visual Arts 2020 xiii, 297 Seiten Illustrationen 24 cm txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Hier auch später erschienene, unveränderte Nachdrucke Geschichte gnd rswk-swf Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd rswk-swf Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd rswk-swf Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 gnd rswk-swf Migration (DE-588)4120730-0 gnd rswk-swf Globalisierung (DE-588)4557997-0 gnd rswk-swf Handel (DE-588)4023222-0 gnd rswk-swf Material (DE-588)4169078-3 gnd rswk-swf Körper (DE-588)4031575-7 gnd rswk-swf Fashion Material culture (DE-588)4143413-4 Aufsatzsammlung gnd-content Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 s Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 s Material (DE-588)4169078-3 s Geschichte z DE-604 Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 s Handel (DE-588)4023222-0 s Globalisierung (DE-588)4557997-0 s Migration (DE-588)4120730-0 s Körper (DE-588)4031575-7 s Jenß, Heike 1970- (DE-588)133554104 edt Hofmann, Viola 1969-2023 (DE-588)1062516966 edt Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe, EPUB 9781350057838 Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe, PDF 9781350057821 https://content.ub.hu-berlin.de/monographs/toc/ethnologie/BV046292059.pdf Inhaltsverzeichnis SWB Datenaustausch application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=031669509&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis
spellingShingle	Fashion and materiality cultural practices in global contexts Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 gnd Migration (DE-588)4120730-0 gnd Globalisierung (DE-588)4557997-0 gnd Handel (DE-588)4023222-0 gnd Material (DE-588)4169078-3 gnd Körper (DE-588)4031575-7 gnd
subject_GND	(DE-588)4031011-5 (DE-588)4039792-0 (DE-588)4059615-1 (DE-588)4120730-0 (DE-588)4557997-0 (DE-588)4023222-0 (DE-588)4169078-3 (DE-588)4031575-7 (DE-588)4143413-4
title	Fashion and materiality cultural practices in global contexts
title_auth	Fashion and materiality cultural practices in global contexts
title_exact_search	Fashion and materiality cultural practices in global contexts
title_full	Fashion and materiality cultural practices in global contexts edited by Heike Jenss and Viola Hofmann
title_fullStr	Fashion and materiality cultural practices in global contexts edited by Heike Jenss and Viola Hofmann
title_full_unstemmed	Fashion and materiality cultural practices in global contexts edited by Heike Jenss and Viola Hofmann
title_short	Fashion and materiality
title_sort	fashion and materiality cultural practices in global contexts
title_sub	cultural practices in global contexts
topic	Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 gnd Migration (DE-588)4120730-0 gnd Globalisierung (DE-588)4557997-0 gnd Handel (DE-588)4023222-0 gnd Material (DE-588)4169078-3 gnd Körper (DE-588)4031575-7 gnd
topic_facet	Kleidung Mode Textilien Migration Globalisierung Handel Material Körper Aufsatzsammlung
url	https://content.ub.hu-berlin.de/monographs/toc/ethnologie/BV046292059.pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=031669509&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA
work_keys_str_mv	AT jenßheike fashionandmaterialityculturalpracticesinglobalcontexts AT hofmannviola fashionandmaterialityculturalpracticesinglobalcontexts

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