Oděv v západních Čechách 15. až 17. století: = Kleidung in Westböhmen im 15.-17. Jahrhundert = Clothing in West Bohemia in 15th to 17th century
Gespeichert in:
| 1. Verfasser: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | Czech |
| Veröffentlicht: |
Plzeň
Národní památkový ústav, územní odborné pracoviště v Plzni
2018
|
| Ausgabe: | Vydání první |
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Literaturverzeichnis Register // Personenregister Register // Sachregister Abstract Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Beschreibung: | 365 Seiten Illustrationen, Karten, Porträts |
| ISBN: | 9788085035520 |
Internformat
MARC
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| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Oděv v západních Čechách 15. až 17. století |b = Kleidung in Westböhmen im 15.-17. Jahrhundert = Clothing in West Bohemia in 15th to 17th century |c Veronika Pilná |
| 246 | 1 | 1 | |a Kleidung in Westböhmen im 15.-17. Jahrhundert |
| 246 | 1 | 1 | |a Clothing in West Bohemia in 15th to 17th century |
| 250 | |a Vydání první | ||
| 264 | 1 | |a Plzeň |b Národní památkový ústav, územní odborné pracoviště v Plzni |c 2018 | |
| 300 | |a 365 Seiten |b Illustrationen, Karten, Porträts | ||
| 336 | |b txt |2 rdacontent | ||
| 337 | |b n |2 rdamedia | ||
| 338 | |b nc |2 rdacarrier | ||
| 546 | |a Zusammenfassung auf Deutsch und Englisch | ||
| 648 | 7 | |a Geschichte 1400-1700 |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf | |
| 650 | 0 | 7 | |a Kleidung |0 (DE-588)4031011-5 |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf |
| 651 | 7 | |a Böhmische Länder |0 (DE-588)4069573-6 |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf | |
| 651 | 7 | |a Westböhmisches Gebiet |0 (DE-588)4079210-9 |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf | |
| 689 | 0 | 0 | |a Böhmische Länder |0 (DE-588)4069573-6 |D g |
| 689 | 0 | 1 | |a Westböhmisches Gebiet |0 (DE-588)4079210-9 |D g |
| 689 | 0 | 2 | |a Kleidung |0 (DE-588)4031011-5 |D s |
| 689 | 0 | 3 | |a Geschichte 1400-1700 |A z |
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| 856 | 4 | 2 | |m Digitalisierung BSB München 25 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment |q application/pdf |u http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=030823492&sequence=000006&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |3 Register // Personenregister |
| 856 | 4 | 2 | |m Digitalisierung BSB München 25 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment |q application/pdf |u http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=030823492&sequence=000007&line_number=0003&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |3 Register // Sachregister |
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| 856 | 4 | 2 | |m Digitalisierung BSB München 25 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment |q application/pdf |u http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=030823492&sequence=000009&line_number=0005&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |3 Inhaltsverzeichnis |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
| _version_ | 1804179330591358976 |
|---|---|
| adam_text | 338
Prameny a literatura
Archivni prameny
Archiv mesta Plzne (AMP)
Liber expeditionum 1529-1532, i. c. 10, sig. lbll.
Liber Testamentorum 1468-1565, sig. 223, lc25.
Liber Testamentorum 1565—1611, sig. 224, lc26.
Liber Testamentorum 1603—1645, sig. 225, lc27.
Liber Testamentorum 1617—1699, sig. 226, lc28.
Pocty plzenskych dvorü (zlomek),
vyroba a vydej konopi, 1669, listopad,
sig. RMR HM/ IX B 13/26.
RejstUk ze dvora v Doubravce z let 1619—1620,
sig. RMRIII4/IXb 12/10.
LABEK, AMP: Ladislav Läbek, Gryspekove — osobni
poznämky, XVI-18 Mistopisnä sbirka Ladislava
Labka, karton 87, polozka 40A.
Archiv Narodniho muzea (ANM)
Registra hi la Jana Jentska z Ujezda a na Svrcovci,
Sbirka rukopisü, sign. 288A.
Pamätnik narodniho pisemnictvi (PNP)
Zluticky kancional, 1558, sig. TR I 27.
Statni oblastni archiv Plzen, oddeleni Klatovy
Urbare panstvi Kynzvart, okr. Cheb, z let
1588, 1645, 1667, Velkostatek Kynzvart,
inv. c. 1 a 2, knihy K79 a K80.
Urbar panstvi Plana, okr. Tachov, z roku 1641,
Velkostatek Plana, inv. c. 434.
Statni oblastni archiv Plzen, oddeleni Zlutice
Urbare panstvi Doupov, okr. Karlovy Vary,
z let 1600- 1629, 1616, 1638, 1660, 1693,
Velkostatek Doupov, knihy c. 2 — 6.
Urbare panstvi Falknov, okr. Sokolov, z obdobi
kol. 1390; Närodni knihovna Praha, zlomek
b. c. z rukopisu UK-IV-A3. a roku 1589,
Velkostatek Falknov, kniha c. 1.
Urbare panstvi Hartenberk, okr. Sokolov,
z let 1531, 1549, 1601, 1602, 1604,
1661, 1693, Velkostatek Hartenberk,
knihy 6, 8 - 12.
Urbar panstvi Hauenstejn, okr. Karlovy Vary,
z roku 1655, Velkostatek Hauenstejn -
Medenec, kniha c. 2.
Urbar panstvi Tepid, okr. Karlovy Vary,
z let 1629, 1631, 1651.
Urbdrpanstvi Touzim, okr. Karlovy Vary,
z roku 1553; Velkostatek Touzim, kniha c. 1.
SOkA Rokycany
Kniha testamenté 1517 — 1828,
Fond Archiv mesta Rokycany II.,
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SOkA Sokolov (Jindrichovice),
Archiv mesta Lokte
Urbdr panstvi Horni Chodov, 1684, okr. Sokolov.
Urbdr panstvi Lipnice, 1644, okr. Sokolov.
SÚA Praha
Urbdr panstvi Ostroh, okr. Karlovy Vary,
z roku 1624, sbirka urbáru, inv. c. 70.
Urbdr panstvi Ryzmberk, okr. Dorn azl ice,
z roku 1614, stará manipulace, inv. c. 657,
sign. C215/G10, karton 391.
Ostatni
SNÉMY C. 154: Snémy ceské, dil V, 1577-1580,
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Premonstráti Teplá, kniha 503 a 504, fol. 1—101.
a z roku 1686, Premonstrátsky kláster Teplá
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339
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340
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HARTLOVÁ 1983: Jarmila Hartlová,
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OTAVSKÁ (nedatováno): Vendulka Otavská,
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PILNÄ - SCHMOLLOVÄ 2014:
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Praha 1969, s. 131-156.
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VAVERKA 2003b: Roman Vaverka,
Spodky, kosile a nohavice ve stredovëku,
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349
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WINTER 1991: Zikmund Winter,
Zlata doba mest ceskych, Praha 1991.
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356
Rejstrik jmenny
Abbas L, sah perskÿ 123
Adamova, Barbora 42, 107, 214
Adlicka, vdova 100
Alcega, Juan de 21, 72, 92, 95, 97, 100, 102, 104,206,283
Alzbëta (sv.) 182
Aizbëta I. 95, 96
Aman, Josr 161
Ambrozova, Dorota 104
Anna Dânskâ 19,181
Anna Jagellonska 19,91
Arnost Habsbursky 123
August Saskÿ 19
Avalos, Luisa de 152
Babinec, Jan 48,107
Bâdenska z Rozmberka, Anna Marie 103
Bakalar ze Sonnenberku, Matyas 38, 54, 112, 113, 128,
289-290
Banova, Anna 93,141
Bassompierre, François de 36, 146, 149, 212, 250
Beckett, Tomas 29
Beranka, Maruse 48
Bergeron, Pierre 130, 148, 152, 158, 160
Boccacio, Giovanni 35
Bouts, Dieric st. 16
Broz, sluzebnik 141
Buchet, Beatrix de 95,99,134,269
Burian, sluzebnik 77, 86, 173, 208, 212
Caroso da Sermoneta, Marco Fabritio 97, 131
Cotton, Richard 79, 80
Cernin z Chudenic, Humprecht 171, 116
Cerninové 154, 164, 171, 230, 277, 293
Cernochovä, A^na W4, 105, 136, 157, 224
Dirmstein, Hans 27
Dobry, Filip 20
Duchek, sluzebnik 141
Erben, Karel Jaromir 36
Erhart, soukenik 42, 67, 159
Fajardo, Pedro de 153
Fenrabends, Sigmund 161
Ferdinand I. 12, 21, 86, 123, 149, 214, 253
Ferdinand II. 123
Ferdinand III. 125, 169
Filip IL 20
Fontin, Samuel 49, 335-336, 337
Freyle, Diego de 21, 95, 206
Furetière, Antoine 29,174
(kurziva — u obrâzku ci vpoznâmcepod caron,
tucnë — katalogové heslo)
Geri, Sebestian 111, 113, 307
Ghirlandaio, Domenico 16
Grimmelhausen, Hans Jakob ChristofFel von 31, 150, 19~
Gryspekove z Griesbachu 33, 38, 39, 55, 58, 59, 61,
62, 65, 72, 73, 74, 75, 77, 79, 80, 83, 84, 87, 103,
106, 127, 131, 133, 148, 166, 172, 173, 177, 186,
190, 206, 217, 258, 261, 266, 270, 272-273, 273,
273-275, 275, 276, 287-288, 292-293
Gryspek z Griesbachu, Blazej 38, 61, 62, 73, 74, 75, 77,
127, 133, 275, 292-293
Gryspek z Griesbachu, Ferdinand 274, 288
Gryspek z Griesbachu, Florian 55, 62, 74, 80, 84, 103,
106, 133, 258, 261, 266, 270, 274, 275
Gryspek z Griesbachu, Karel 73, 273, 287, 288, 289, 336
Gryspek z Griesbachu, Vaclav 39, 61, 75, 79,
Habsburkove 20, 122, 149
Hanzl, kramar 213
Harstorfer, Hans 71, 137, 333
Hejtmanova, Anna 100
Hodon, Vaclav 125, 159,166
Hohenembs von, aristokraticka rodina 114
HoldorfFerova, Frantiska Otilie 134,204, 268
Holzin ze Silianu, Rosina 65, 103, 106, 133, 206, 258,
266-267, 274, 275
Homolova, Marta 42, 99, 100, 166, 173, 205
Horakovsky, Jakub 213
Hubena, Anna 93, 141
Chanovsky z Dlouhe Vsi, Jan Griliemus 76, 81, 204, 304
Chrt, Vaclav 42
Chudoba, Jan 40, 43, 67
Chvojka, Jan 168
Jakub, krejci 37, 77, 141, 206, 208, 213
Jana, osedia v Plzni 99
Jenisek z Ujezda, Jan 37, 43, 68, 77, 84, 86, 93, 95,
103, 106, 114, 141, 142, 168, 169, 170, 171, 173,
175, 206, 208, 212, 213
Jenisek z Ujezda, Vilem 84, 168
Joachym, kozesnik 43, 114, 141, 212
Karas, Mikulas 208
Karel V. 149,254
Karel SIicny20
Kasparek, Kaspar 42, 50, 51, 136, 242-243
Khevenhiiller, Hans 121
Khoblova, Marketa 104,138
Kleova, Katerina (tez KJeowa, Katerina) 48, 104, 138
Klivcova, Mariana 93, 169
Knap ze Susice, Matej 169
Koc z Dobrse, Dionisios 55, 117
Kockowic, Anna 99, 206, 246
357
Kohout, Jan 43
Kokorovska z Kokorova, Kark 53,285
Kokorovska z Kokorova, Marketa 54, 269
Kokofovsti z Kokorova, slechticka rodina 269,276-277,285
Komensky, Jan Ämos 81, 111, 164, 166, 174, 206, 208
Konac z Hodiskova 35
Koralek, Daniel 133
Kovandovä, Katerina 212
Kozlova, Lydmila 108
Kozesnik, Karel 212
Kroeber, Alfred Louis 14
Kfesadlovä, Barbora 96
Kubka, pacholek 168
Kumpan 175 (kozesnik), 107 (Jan)
Kvetoh, Mikulas 67
Läbkova, Marie 28, 36, 72, 89, 91, 96, 100, 108, 145,
161, 169, 205,214
Laminger z Albenreuthu 85, 300
Lemberkova, Barbora 100, 160
Lengefelterove, mestanskä rodina 111,286-287
Leopold, arcivevoda 125
Letnansky z Vyserovic, Jan 63, 69, 70, 94, 111, 113, 128,
144, 188, 298-299
Linhart, kramaf 46
Lippi, Filippo 16
Lobkovicove 28, 31, 102, 103, 107, 114, 164, 197, 201,
242, 244, 282-284, 297, 334
Ludvik IX. - sv. Ludvik 29
Ludvik IX. Bavorsky 123
Ludvik XIV. 81
Malatesta, Pandolfo III. 17
Malatesta, Sigismond Pandolfo 17
Malaunova, Anna 108
Margarera I. Danska 17, 91, 181
Marie Habsburska 18, 30, 31, 91, 98, 183,
Marie Regina, plzenska mestanka 111,191, 194,195,302
Marie Spanelska (infantka) 29
Maternova, Svata 100
Matthioli, Pietro Andrea 57, 163, 173, 174, 175, 209
Maxmilian II. 21,57
Maxmiliän Styrsky 123
Mazany, Jan Josef Sebestian 96
Meckenem, Israhel van 27
Meyssner, Sebastian 80, 267
Miksicova, Kunka 136,211
Mikuiäs, krejci z Rokycan 93, 169, 208, 212, 214
Mistr ES 27
Montaigne, Michel de 95 Morison, Fynes 28
Mofic Sasko-Lucembursky 145
Moric Sasky 19, 37, 82
Müllerovä, Katerina 146, 189, 328
Neuburg, Sabina Dorothea von 95, 96
Nikodem, Jan 213
Panenkova, Anna 160
Pedal, Lorenc 169
Pek, Jan 213
Perglar, H. S. 111,266
Peterkova, Mari 43, 159
Petr 40, 67 (mistr zednik), 100 (knez), 208 (krejci),
141, 212 (mlatec)
Pfreimd, Jan Sörtel von 104,281
Plzensky, Kherner 157
Prazsky, Matej 42, 67
Pnchovsky, Jan Vilem 4, 55, 75, 81, 86, 87, 106, 158, 302
Prichovsky, Petr 301
Prichovskä, Anezka Kunhuta 204, 304
Pfichovsti 4,55, 75,81, 86, 87,106,158,29^,301,302,304
Puchamr, Martin 38, 54, 79, 80, 128, 135, 265
Racinsky z Racina, Vavrinec 54, 269
Rajecka ze Zastrizlü, Katerina 102
Randovä, Anna 42, 99, 159, 166
Regina, plzenska mestanka 40, 93, 107
Reinerovä, Anna Marie 55, 158, 297, 298
Res, Prokop 42, 107, 114, 160
Richardson, Jane 10,14
Rudolf II. Habsbursky 40, 57, 63, 65, 70, 79, 83, 87,
90, 99, 102, 104, 119, 121, 123, 130, 139, 144, 146,
149, 152, 171, 191, 207, 208, 211, 213, 263, 269
Samcovä, Kacka 93, 141
Schmidl, Bernhardin 45, 45, 256
Schwarz, Matyas 35
Silberg, Jorg 213
Slavik, Josef 207
Sonnenberkove 38, 54, 112, 113, 128, 289-290
Spinelli, Filip 123
Steindorfove, mestanska rodina 113, 260
Strhla z Privetic, Ondrej 159
Strojeticky, Jan Jindrich 54, 55, 79, 289
Stryc, plzehskysvec 43, 159
Stfisek, Adam 54, 113, 116-117, 264
Stuartovna, Azbeta 153
Sweerts-Spork 96
Safrankovä z Pautnova, Anna 41, 42, 48, 93, 100, 138,
166, 212
Sery, Frantisek 108
Sicovä z Drahenic, Alzbeta 285
Simek z Polene, krejci 45, 86, 208
Sindel, Linhart 213
Slikova, Anna Marie 102
Slikovä, Marketa 94, 134, 244
Sloth, Erhärt 46, 160, 214
Solna, Jan 46,214
Stolcarova, Barbora 213
Svihovsky z Ryzmberka, Jindrich 50, 51, 68, 156, 157, 239
358
Svihovskÿ z Rÿzmberka, Pûta 30
Svihovsti 50, 51, 68, 105, 156, 157, 212, 230, 239
Teratoris, Jan 67
Tësmska, Alzbéta 102
Utersky, Martin 67
Vackovic, Simon 166
Valera, Diego de 152
Van Dyck, Antony 23, 81, 147
Veverka, Jakub 168
Vodicka, Jan 208
Weiditz, Christopher 18
Welserova, Filipina 123
Weyden, Rogier van der 16, 91
Winter, Zikmund 28, 29, 31, 38, 39, 40, 43, 46, 49,
51, 52, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 71, 80, 82, 84, 90, 91, 97,
100, 108, 119, 135, 139, 147, 148, 157, 161, 173,
207,208, 212, 287
Wirsperg, Anna Barbora von 111,281
z Nassau-Dietz, Ernest Kazimir 84
z Ditrichstejna, Markéta Frantiska 38, 108, 200
z Dubu, Bernard 43
z Eggenberka, Jan Syefried 150
z Fiirstenberka, Albert 114
z Gutstejna, Ziguna 41, 134, 240, 242, 255
z Hradce Krâlového, Jan 155, 222
z Hradce, Jachym 114, 212
z Hradce, Jachym Oldrich 121
z Hradce, Katerina 102
z Hradce, Mandelina 212
z Hradce, Zacharias 114
z Chys z Hubojed, Marie Anna Trnalova 49
z Lobkovic, Katerina 242
z Lobkovic, Magdaléna 102
z Lobkovic, Zdenèk Popel 244
z Lobkovic, Jan IV. mladsi Popel 31, 244, 334
z Monfortu, Kateriny Hrâdecké 139
z Pernstejna, Elvira 102
z Pernstejna, Polyxena Lobkovicka 28, 130
z Plané, Simon 155, 222
z Podëbrad, Jiri 123
z Postupic, Katerina 102
z Reicestejna, Anna Svamberkova 259
z Rozmberka, Anna 102
z Rozmberka, Bohunka 98, 244, 258, 334
z Rozmberka, Eva 31, 197
z Rozmberka, Jindrich 93
z Rozmberka, Petr Vok 31, 197
z Rozmberka, Vilém 31, 197, 297
z Trautenbergu, Sibyla Marie 134, 156, 158, 298
z Valdstejna, Albrecht 63, 125, 192, 193, 199, 200, 286
z Valdstejna, Katerina 102
z Veleslavina, Daniel Adam 164, 165
z Zebnice, Gotfrÿd 43, 250
Zajickova, Dora 138
ze Sternberka, Bohunka Lobkovicka 61, 103, 107, 108,
131, 172, 182, 201, 282-284, 336
ze Sternberka, Ladislav 54, 257, 260, 262
ze Svamberka, Bavûrek Jan 161, 207
ze Svamberka, Adam 264
ze Svamberka, Anezka 257
ze Svamberka, neznàma 98, 134, 258, 334
ze Svamberka, Ludmila 277
ze Svamberka, Petr 51, 54, 79, 259
ze Zmytenflekû, Anna 43, 250
ze Zerotina, Jan Jetrich 98
ze Zerotina, Katerina 146
ze Zerotina, Premysl IL 45, 80
ze Sternberka a na Zelené hore, Lidmila 93
Zaludek, sluzebnik 141
Zelezna, Anna 43
Zeleznÿ, Matëj 90, 135
Zezulova, Alzbéta 48,104,166
359
aksamit 41,48,65, 79, 93, 103, 106, 144, 152,153,172,
203.209.211.261.283.336
aplikace 193, 198
baret 51, 68, 131, 136, 157, 234, 235, 236, 237, 239,
251,252, 253,254, 256,259,274, 323, 334
barchant 82, 95,173, 207
barvy, barevnost 38, 40, 42,43,45, 51, 59,67, 93, 94,
100,113, 119,126, 127,128, 129, 133, 137, 138, 142,
150,152, 160,168, 191, 195, 225, 229, 234, 235, 238,
243, 248, 249, 251, 252, 258, 264, 265,267, 270, 271,
272, 273, 274, 275, 278, 281, 288, 289,290, 295,
302,304, 306, 328, 333
bavlna 29, 163, 171,173
bílá 26, 62, 71, 114, 196, 197, 239, 246, 250, 252, 253,
256,265,274,275, 290, 296, 301, 303, 313, 321, 325,
328.336
blackwork 31, 179, 196
blány 93,99-100
borta, borty 19, 58, 66, 80, 83, 96, 103, 128, 172, 182,
201, 258, 262, 265, 272, 276, 278, 282, 283, 284, 299,
301, 308,311,312, 314, 316, 317,325,336
boty rejtarské - jezdecká obuv 63, 87,211
braies (spodky) 26
bruchy 25
burgundská moda 16, 20, 102, 122, 137, 155, 157, 226,
227, 333
callota 50,51,233,239,243
caporain 87,315,323
cech barcheníkú 173
cech krejcovsky 206, 207, 208
cech kozeluhú 165
cech obuvnicky 211
cech plátenicky 165
cech soukenicky 169
cech, cechy 38, 54,79, 80, 122, 128, 135,136,144, 165,
169, 173, 205, 206, 207, 208, 211
cechovní slavnosti 122
cestován! 18, 28, 84, 98, 121, 122, 123, 125, 128, 130,
145, 152, 153, 160, 170, 171, 173, 203, 213, 258, 286
cechel, cechlík 89, 91
cerná 19, 20, 23, 26, 30, 31, 38, 39, 40, 41,42, 43,
45, 48, 51, 56, 58, 59, 63, 66, 67, 72, 74, 79, 80, 81,
83, 84, 86, 87,93,94,96, 98, 99,100, 102, 103, 104,
105, 106, 111, 113, 126, 127, 128, 130, 133, 137,
138, 139, 147, 150, 152, 155, 157, 158, 161, 164,
166, 171, 172, 191, 194, 196, 197, 203, 204, 211,
212, 224, 227, 235, 238, 239, 243, 244, 245, 246,
247, 248, 249, 250, 251, 252, 253, 254, 255, 256,
258, 260, 261, 264, 265, 267, 270, 271, 272, 274,
275, 276, 277, 278, 281, 284, 286, 287, 288, 289,
290, 291, 293, 294, 295, 296, 297, 298, 299, 301,
302, 303, 304, 305, 306, 307, 308, 309, 310, 311,
312, 315, 316, 317, 318, 319, 321, 323, 324, 327,
329, 331, 332, 333, 334, 336, 337
cervená 17, 43, 48, 67, 71, 74, 81, 93, 102, 103, 107,
112, 128, 135, 142, 143, 150, 155, 166, 169, 175,
186, 197, 214, 223, 225, 228, 234, 235, 238, 241,
243, 245, 246, 247, 248, 249, 250, 251, 252, 253,
254, 255, 256, 271, 274, 277, 278, 289, 290, 292,
294, 296, 297, 300, 301, 302, 303, 304, 306, 307,
308, 310, 311, 312, 313, 314, 317, 318, 319, 320,
322. 323, 324, 325, 326, 327, 329, 331, 332,
damasek 19, 42, 74, 83, 90, 93, 207, 256, 261, 276,
292, 304
díry 121
díevo 33, 56, 57, 72, 99, 164, 170, 185, 209, 210, 223,
252,279, 284
díevo pantoflové 209
dvúr panovnicky 119,121,122,123
doloman 38, 83, 112, 267, 276, 310,
epitaf 38, 43, 49, 53, 54, 55, 63, 69, 70, 81, 84, 94, 98,
103, 104, 106, 111, 112, 113, 127, 128,129, 131,
134, 135,144, 158, 188, 250, 255, 257, 260, 262, 266,
267, 274, 276, 277, 281, 285, 286, 287, 289, 291, 298,
299,306,307, 309, 333, 335,336, 337
facalít 49,256
fáchy 104,105, 106,157, 224, 242, 260
faltrok 68, 157, 158, 232, 233, 234, 235, 236, 237, 238,
239,240,243,246,253
federpus 51
fertoch 94, 129, 197, 262, 263, 271, 285
fispán 72, 92, 96
floky 210,279
goler 84
golilla 55, 289, 291, 292, 297
gugelhaube 51, 105, 157, 234, 253, 264, 267, 336
hace 26, 27, 224
haras 40,41, 42, 67, 93, 100, 103, 104, 138, 167, 207,
hazuka 43, 100, 102, 103, 131, 133, 134, 135, 158,
207, 244, 259, 260, 262, 263, 268, 272, 277, 285,
287, 291, 308, 309
hedvábí 10, 17, 18, 19, 28, 30, 31, 33, 37, 38, 39, 41,
42, 45, 46, 57, 59, 65, 66, 67, 72, 74, 75, 77, 79, 80,
83, 93, 96, 103, 104, 106, 113, 133, 135, 145, 146,
152,163,170-172,173,177,178,180, 181,182,185,
186, 193,194,197, 198,199, 200, 201,203, ,209,
213, 228, 258, 261, 270,271, 272, 273, 276, 282, 283,
284, 287, 288, 293, 304, 336
henin 16
hnédá 23, 38, 45, 65, 85, 87, 100, 127, 128, 152, 186,
222, 235, 238, 241, 245, 246, 247, 248, 249, 250,
251, 252, 253, 254, 255, 256, 258, 261, 265, 271,
273, 278, 279, 286, 288, 290, 293, 294, 295, 299,
300, 301, 306, 308, 311, 312, 315, 316, 317, 318,
322, 324, 325, 326, 328, 329, 330, 331, 334
houpellande 16, 20
husí bíicho 20, 72, 74, 158, 270, 288
chopines 57,58
innocente 23,75,158,324
jablko (pomander) 48, 49
jablko (granátové, vzor) 19,226,238
360
justacorps 23, 73, 76, 81, 150, 304, 305, 306, 307, 318,
326, 328, 329
kabatec 15, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23, 28, 30, 45, 62, 66,
67, 68, 70-76, 80, 82, 84, 85, 90, 91, 128, 137, 152,
155, 158, 166, 203, 223, 225, 226, 233, 235, 243,
244, 246, 247, 248, 249, 251, 252, 255, 259, 261,
263, 265, 270, 274, 275, 286, 287, 288, 289, 292,
293, 295, 296, 297, 299, 300, 301, 302, 304, 316,
318, 320, 323, 324, 326, 328, 331,332,333, 336, 337
kabat, kabatek 23, 41, 68, 76, 82, 85, 90, 114, 138,
139, 140, 142, 149, 150, 153, 173, 185, 197,
199, 207, 208, 212, 214, 247, 268, 295, 297, 298,
304, 308, 309, 310, 311, 313, 316, 317, 321, 322,
325, 327, 329, 320
kaftan 83, 84, 160
kalhoty 19, 20, 25, 26, 28, 37, 45, 68, 71, 72, 74, 75,
76- 82, 113. 114, 203, 207, 232, 247, 248, 254, 259,
261, 263, 264, 265, 267, 270, 281, 287, 289, 294,
295, 296, 297, 302, 304, 305, 306, 307, 315, 317,
318, 320, 322, 323, 324, 326, 330, 331, 336, 337
kalhoty benatske, venetiany 78, 80, 263, 267, 281, 287,
289, 294, 336
kalhoty kozenky 82, 207
kalhoty plundry 77, 79, 80, 81, 271, 288, 289, 293, 310
kalhoty poctivice 19, 20, 77, 79, 80, 81, 82, 112, 113,
142, 158, 207, 247, 248, 259, 261, 265, 291,295, 331
kalhoty rhingrave 81, 203, 302, 304, 320, 323, 324
kalhoty spodnt 25, 26, 28
kapesnik 49,256
karkule 106, 111, 112, 191, 278, 286, 291, 298, 304,
306, 307
kazajka 73, 74, 75 , 77, 128, 206, 249, 265, 271, 293,
323, 330
kazak 84
klok 93,99,100,212
knoflik, knofliky 66, 71, 72, 74, 75, 81, 82, 83, 84,
103, 128, 133, 137, 161, 181, 204, 206, 209, 232,
235, 258, 265, 267, 270, 274, 276, 278, 286, 287,
288, 289, 290, 291, 292, 299, 301, 304, 308, 316,
321,331,332, 333
kolar 83, 84-85, 295, 300, 311, 316, 317, 322, 323, 325,
kolovrat 163, 164, 165
konopi 29, 128, 164, 174
kopriva 128, 174, 175
korzet 15, 20, 21, 23, 95-96, 179
kosile 11, 18, 19, 20, 21 ,24,25, 28, 29, 30-36, 45, 52,
66,71,72, 74, 75,76, 90,91,96, 102, 111, 112, 113,
114, 135, 144, 145,148, 150, 158, 163, 166, 174, 177,
179, 182, 183, 188, 189, 196, 197, 205, 222, 229, 231,
232,233, 234, 237, 238,239, 241, 242, 243, 244, 245,
246, 248, 249, 250, 251, 252, 253, 254, 255, 256, 257,
258, 261, 264, 265, 267, 270, 271, 274, 275, 281, 287,
288, 289, 290, 292, 294, 296, 298, 299, 301, 302, 303,
304, 305, 306,307, 310, 311, 313, 317, 318, 319, 320,
321, 322, 323, 324, 325, 326, 327, 328, 329, 330, 331,
332, 334, 336, 337
koturny 57
koupani 147
kozenky 82,207
kozesina 41, 42, 43, 46, 56, 67, 86, 99, 100, 119, 13 .
138, 161, 175, 212, 223, 228, 234, 235. 241, 243,
244, 250, 251, 252, 253, 254, 255, 256, 257, 265,
290, 308, 316
kozesina lisci42, 43, 99, 138, 212
kozesina kuni 41,42, 43, 138, 213
kozesina lasickova 41
kozesina beliznova 42
kozesina kocici 43
kozesnici 114, 141, 175, 205, 212-213, 214
kozich, kozisek 43, 67, 103, 114, 141, 145, 159, 175,
207, 212, 213, 255
kalouny (tkalouny) 89, 201, 203, 206, 311, 329
krajka 23, 33, 34, 35, 38, 45, 46, 49, 53, 54, 55, 59, 62.
74, 87, 90, 102, 106, 108, 111, 112, 114, 128, 133,
147, 150, 153, 158, 176, 181, 182, 183, 186-193,
201, 203, 261, 262, 263, 264, 267, 268, 271, 274,
275, 276, 278, 285, 286, 287, 288, 289, 290, 291,
292, 296, 297, 300, 301, 302, 303, 304, 305, 306,
307, 308, 309, 311, 312, 313, 315, 316, 317, 318,
319, 322, 324, 325, 326, 327, 332, 337
krajka gros point 55, 188, 189
krajka palickovana 33, 34, 55, 111, ¡83, 186, ¡87, 190,
191-200, 201, 204, 261, 274, 288, 291, 292, 297, 301,
304, 308
krajka point rose 55
krajka reticella 34, 108, 187-188, 267, 313
krajka neprava 192, 193
krejci 10, 14, 21, 37, 45, 72, 77, 80, 82, 86, 93, 102, 121,
141, 169, 178, 182, 205, 206-208, 212, 213, 214
kukla 37, 86, 119, 141, 155, 160, 171, 208, 224, 228,
250, 251,253,
kukla rejtarska 86
kukla smutkova 86
kuie 37, 46, 57, 62, 65, 82, 84, 89, 96, 153, 175, 208,
211,213, 250,295
kuze hovezt 57, 62, 211, 278,279
kytle 66, 135, 139, 163
lajblik 95-96
len 10, 17, 26, 28, 29, 33, 74, 146, 163-166, 173, 174,
175, 178, 181, 182, 187, 191, 195, 197, 203, 261, 270.
288, 295, 304
h mec 33, 34, 52, 54, 55, 83, 102, 103, 153. 193. 226.
229, 244, 246, 247, 248, 249, 250, 251, 255. 258.
261, 262, 263, 264, 266, 267, 269, 274, 275. 276,
278, 282, 286, 287, 289, 290, 292, 295. 296. 29
298, 299, 300, 301, 302. 303, 304, 305, 307. 310,
311,315,316, 317, 318, 322, 323, 324,325, 327, 330
lov, lovecke 52, 63, 149, 150, 211,312
manrh k 40, 94, 104, 105, 113. 129, 135, 138, 158, 166.
207, 264, 281, 299
mantua 23, 92, 306, 332
manzeta, manzetv 31, 33. 34, 35, 44, 45, 52, 55, 63. 65,
72,75, 87, 9l , 155, 158, 185, 190, 197, 223,230. 241.
244, 248,249, 250,251,253, 255, 256, 257, 258. 259,
260, 261, 262, 263, 264, 265, 267, 268, 271, 276, 27^.
287, 288, 289, 290, 295, 296, 297, 298. 299, 302. 303.
304, 305, 306, 307, 308,309, 310,311,315.316. 31 .
318,319, 322, 329, 330, 332, 336, 337
maska 98, 148, 149
mente 43, 83, 146, 276, 290
mesec 52, 175, 231
361
mesec smenarensky 52
mestan 9, 12, 29, 30, 33, 35, 38, 40, 41, 42, 43, 46,
48, 50,51,55,65,67,79,80, 82, 86,92,93, 94,96,98,
99, 100, 103, 104, 105, 106, 107, 111, 112, 113, 114,
116-117, 123,125, 127, 128, 131, 133, 134, 135, 136,
137, 138, 142,143, 144, 152, 155, 157, 158, 159, 160,
161, 163, 166,170, 171, 172, 173, 191, 194, 197, 207,
212, 213, 214, 218, 224, 241, 242, 245, 249, 251, 253,
263, 264, 265,267, 268, 269,277, 327, 333,335, 337
modra 26, 27, 28, 40, 42, 72, 98, 100, 107, 128, 142,
147, 152, 185, 197, 224, 226, 229, 234, 241, 242, 249,
250, 254,255, 274,279,294, 300, 313, 317, 326, 328
naramemky 20,45, 72, 75, 103, 239, 249, 258, 265, 267,
274, 277,278,282,283,287, 289, 308, 309, 325,328
nazouvaky 56, 57, 223
nite 19, 27, 31, 33, 45, 59, 74, 75, 138, 139, 145,163,
164, 165, 171, 173, 174, 177, 178, 179, 180, 181,
182, 183, 185, 186, 187, 188, 191, 193, 194, 195,
197, 198, 199, 200, 201, 205, 206, 222, 265, 267,
283, 287, 288, 292, 301,308
nosy 56
oblecka 89
obuv 12, 56-70,71, 112, 114, 119, 125, 139, 144, 149,
159,160,175,177,178,179,180,200,203,205,208-
211, 213, 218, 219, 223, 232, 233, 238, 240, 241, 244,
248, 249, 250, 252, 253, 258, 262, 265, 268, 269, 275,
278, 279, 284, 287, 288, 289, 293, 295
obuv hubata 57, 58-59, 114, 157, 233, 234, 235, 236,
239, 240, 244, 248, 249
obuv holenova 63, 144, 250
odev bezny 122, 135, 137, 138-144, 146, 148
odev ceremonialni 98, 122, 123, 125, 129-136, 141, 148
odev detsky 43, 111-115, 147, 185, 205, 211, 243, 266,
267, 269, 281, 287, 290, 306, 331
odev pracovni 26, 35, 89, 118,122, 138-144, 147
odev svatecni 66, 122, 123, 125, 126, 133, 135, 136-
138, 158
okruzi 11, 20, 33, 45, 52, 54, 55, 72, 113, 128, 142,
173, 179, 188, 257, 258, 259, 260, 261, 262, 263,
264, 265, 266, 267, 268, 269, 270, 271, 274, 275,
276, 277, 281, 285, 286, 287, 289, 290, 291, 292,
294, 295, 299, 308, 309, 317, 334, 336, 337
opasek 46, 48, 50, 52, 67, 175, 203, 222, 224, 230,
236, 238, 241, 248, 279, 280-281, 286, 289, 290,
299, 309, 313, 316, 327, 329
opleci 30, 89,90, 91
pamatm k 36, 126, 131, 152, 161, 297
pasir, pasirsky 46
pasmicka 111,112,147,281
patnochy 57
perlovec 107,214,
plast 40, 112, 113, 128, 134, 135, 136, 137, 138, 146,
147, 149, 157, 158, 161, 172, 206, 207, 208, 213,
223, 224, 225, 226, 227, 229, 230, 231, 232, 233,
234, 235, 236, 237, 239, 240, 241, 242, 243, 244,
245, 246, 247, 248, 249, 250, 251, 252, 253, 254,
256, 257, 258, 259, 260, 261, 262, 263, 264, 265,
267, 268, 272, 274, 276, 281, 282, 283, 285, 286,
287, 289, 290, 294, 295, 297, 298, 299, 301, 306,
307, 308, 309, 320, 323, 324, 327, 336, 337
plast boemo 104, 113,158, 248, 259, 260, 263, 265, 267,
281,285,287, 289,336
plast’ove sacy (hazuka, ropa) 43, 100-103, 131, 134, 135,
158, 172, 258,260, 262, 263,267,268, 272,274, 283,292
platno 26, 28, 29, 31, 33, 34, 37, 40, 42, 49, 55, 58,
74, 75, 82, 87, 89, 90, 91, 92, 95, 96, 99, 103, 104,
106, 108, 128, 146, 159, 160, 161, 163, 165, 166,
169, 171, 173, 174, 183, 187, 191, 193, 195, 197,
198, 212, 258, 270, 288, 292, 303, 304, 308
pleteni, pletenina 19, 38, 39, 46, 51, 59, 185-186, 191,
261,273,276, 288,293, 331,
pletene tkanice 203
plst, plsteni 86, 181, 199
plundry 77, 79, 80, 81, 271, 288, 289, 293, 310
poctivice 19, 20, 77, 79, 80, 81, 82, 112, 113, 142, 158,
207, 247, 248, 259, 261, 265, 291,295,331
podesev 56-65, 209, 210, 223, 258, 262, 270, 275, 278,
279, 284, 288
podvazky 37, 38, 39, 271, 273, 288, 289, 315
pomander 48,49
potiskovani 165
poullaine 56
pradlo 11, 14, 16, 21, 25-28, 30, 36, 54, 89, 90, 91, 95,
135, 145, 166, 178, 182, 187, 191, 194, 196, 205, 224
prostfihy 19, 23, 30, 32, 37, 41, 45, 59, 68, 70, 71, 72,
74, 75, 77, 80, 90, 94, 236, 238, 241, 242, 244, 249,
251, 252, 255, 256, 261, 262, 265, 270, 274, 275,
278, 287, 312, 313, 314, 324, 325
prymky 74, 75, 79, 80, 84, 93, 133, 172, 191, 201,
203, 213, 256, 270, 272, 273, 274, 282, 287, 288,
291, 292, 293, 301
predeni, sptadini 163, 164, 165, 171, 173, 174, 178, 205
pfeslice 27
pfezuvky 57, 58, 59, 209, 223, 248, 249, 262, 265
prezuvky typu „slip on shoe“ 58—59, 248, 262
puncochy 19, 20, 37-39, 59, 77, 82, 87, 113, 128,
158, 186, 199, 205, 234, 244, 245, 246, 247, 248,
249, 250, 254, 259, 261, 264, 265, 267, 271, 273,
276, 288, 289, 291, 293, 294, 305, 306, 307, 310,
315,318, 324, 332
rebato 55, 193, 274
respondent 86, 87, 295, 315
rhingrave 81, 203, 302, 304, 320, 323, 324
robe 20
rubas 90,91,135,155,302
rukavce 30, 89-91, 152, 267, 290, 299
rukavice 45^6, 175, 185, 206, 208, 256, 308, 309, 317,
326, 336
rukavnik 56
rukavy 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 23, 24, 29, 30, 31, 34, 35, 36,
41, 43, 45, 68, 71, 72, 75, 83, 84, 85, 90, 91, 93, 94,
95, 100, 102, 103, 113, 128, 138, 141, 142, 157, 158,
178, 203, 206, 207, 212, 224, 225, 226, 229, 231, 232,
233, 234, 236, 237, 238, 239, 240, 241, 242, 243, 244,
245, 246, 247, 248, 249, 250, 251, 252, 253, 254, 255,
256, 257, 258,259, 260,262,263,264, 266, 267,268,
269, 270, 271, 272, 273, 274, 281, 282, 283, 285, 287,
289, 290, 291, 292, 296, 297, 298, 301,302, 303, 304,
305, 306, 308, 309, 310, 311, 312, 313,314,315,317,
318, 319, 321, 322, 323, 324, 325, 326, 327, 329,330,
331,334,336, 337
samet 19, 58, 59, 65, 74, 75, 77, 79, 87, 130, 152, 172,
182, 193, 203, 243, 258, 261, 273, 283, 288, 293, 297
362
spodnicka 89, 90,97- 99, 268, 269, 303,324, 332
steh 31, 33, 34, 39, 39, 62, 83, 177, 178, 179-181, 182,
183, 187, 188, 193, 194, 195, 197, 198, 199, 200, 210,
262,267, 272,275, 276,278,279, 284,302, 308
steh krokvovy 33, 34, 187
steh obnirkovací 34,39, 59,180, 181, 182, 186, 262
steh píední 34,179,196,267
stfih 9, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16,17, 19,20,21,23,25,26,
29,31,33,37,40,41,43, 61,66,68,70,71,72,74,75,
76,77,79,80,81, 82, 86, 87,89, 90, 91,92,93,95,96,
97, 102, 103, 104, 137, 148, 155, 157, 167, 168, 177,
178, 179, 180, 181, 182, 183, 186, 203, 205, 206, 207,
222, 232, 234,235, 236, 239, 244, 245, 270, 272, 273,
278, 279, 282,283, 288,292,293, 296, 304, 326,336
stuha 45, 55, 62, 65, 71, 74, 81, 83, 107, 146, 153,
158, 170, 172, 182, 201, 203, 204, 209, 258, 271,
274, 276, 278, 305, 306, 307, 311, 314, 318, 319,
323, 324, 325, 328
sukné 13, 16, 17, 18, 19, 23, 28, 29, 36, 43, 58, 66-70,
76, 81, 82, 84, 89, 90-94, 95, 97, 98, 99, 100, 102,
111-113, 138,139, 141,142, 145,146,152,153,155,
157, 158, 166, 179, 203,206,207, 208,212,213,214,
217, 222, 224, 225, 226, 227,228,229,231, 232, 233,
234,235,236,237, 238,239,240,242,243,244,245-
250, 251-256, 258, 262, 263, 264, 266, 267, 268, 269,
270, 271,272, 273, 277,278, 28!, 286-287,290,
291, 294, 297,298-299,301,303, 305,306, 308,309,
310, 317, 324, 325, 326, 329, 334, 336, 337,
suknice 13, 17, 29, 36,66-70,91, 135,146,155, 158, 161,
207,223, 230,251-253,299,
sukno 37, 40, 42, 43, 56, 67, 91, 93, 104, 128, 141, 152,
159,160-171,206, 208,213, 214
slofpelc 145, 146
smejd norimbersky 46, 48
spanélky 59,114,153,291
spice 56
stambuchy (památníky) 126
stud 56
suba 18, 20, 25, 40^13, 70, TI, 83, 93, 112, 137, 138,
148,155,157,223-224,225, 226, 228,232, 234,235,
236, 237, 239, 240, 241, 242, 243, 244, 245-250,
251-256, 334
súsek, súsky 17, 19, 23, 72, 74, 75, 259, 263, 268, 287,
289,296,313
svec, sevcovské 43, 63, 67, 100, 114, 136, 159, 205,
208-211
svy 177,181
tacle 35,45,55,72,91,324
taska 15 ,46,52, 175, 211,222, 330
tasvice 46, 50, 52, 230
ckalouny (kalouny) 89, 201, 203, 206, 311, 329
tobolky 52, 164,205
trepka, ttepky 56, 57, 209
tunika 13, 14, 29, 66,155,225
turnaje 122, 123, 148, 226
úces 54, 102, 103, 106-108, 154, 203, 224, 230, 238,
239, 244, 245-246, 253, 256, 258, 274, 281,284, 304,
305, 308, 312, 313, 314,318, 319,324,325, 336
vácek 15,46,52,185,230,332
vatování 10, 72, 79, 97, 99, 173, 261, 283
venkov, venkovan 28, 30, 36, 63, 65, 66, 67, 70, 86, 87
90, 112, 119, 121, 128, 129, 138, I4¡, 142, 143, 144,
145, 148, 161,222, 237,251,294,299,326
verdugado 97, 99, 268, 283
vínky panenské 106-108, 113, 158, 224, 238, 254, 258,
262, 263, 264, 268, 269, 29!, 292
vlasy 36, 51, 55, 106-107, 108, 130, 152, 186, 225,
230, 231, 233, 234, 237, 239, 244, 245-249, 252-
256, 257, 260, 261, 262, 263, 265, 266, 267, 268,
269, 271, 274-275, 276-277, 281, 284, 285, 287,
289, 290, 291, 297, 298, 299, 300, 301, 302, 303,
304, 305, 306, 307, 311, 315, 316, 317, 318, 319,
322, 324, 325, 326, 332, 334, 336
vina 17, 128, 167-170
vochle, vochlování 164
vrapování 19, 20, 30, 31, 71,72, 89, 179,183, 241, 251.
252, 274
víeteno 27, 163, 164, 165
vycpávky 15, 20,72, 74, 79, 80,97, 108, 173, 261, 270
vysivka 28,30, 31, 33,45,71, 87, 90, 96, 114,135, 145,
147,177-181,183,185,186,188,194-200, 204, 209,
227, 238, 244, 249, 258, 262, 263, 268, 278, 286, 297,
302, 304, 308, 311, 312,317, 324,326, 331
vysivka atlasovy steh 197-198
vysivka azurová 33
vysivka kladená nit 193, 198
vysivka korálky a perlami 199
vysivka malba jehlou 197
vysivka podkládaná 199
vysivka kontrastní 196-197,302,317
vysivka krízková 195
vyvlacování 58,71,72
vyztuhy 15, 23, 72,79, 95, 96,108, 261, 272, 283
vyztuhy - rohlík, klobása, partykál, kortukál 97-99. 141.
258, 268
wams 16, 17, 21, 45, 70-76, 79, 80, 112, 113, 133.
148, 155, 158,226, 247,248,251,252, 254, 256,259,
261,263, 264,265,267, 270, 271, 274, 278, 281, 285,
287-288, 289, 291,292, 296, 310, 315, 317
zacistování, zacistení 83, 137, 178, 180, 181-182, 193.
203,206, 262,273, 276, 304, 333
zámis 59, 62, 82, 175, 209, 279
záplaty 121, 186
zaviti 20, 51, 105-106, 108, 136, 157, 161, 224, 229.
231, 243, 247, 251, 253, 257, 262, 264, 267. 268, 281.
285, 290, 336,337
zlatohlav, srfíbrohlav 17, 48, 93, 136, 171, 181, 209
zeny - dévecky 40, 93, 139, 141, 144, 167, 222
zeny — nevéstky 144
Zidé 105, 106, 107, 119, 160,171,214,251,293, 294
zivútek 15, 18, 19, 20, 21, 23, 89, 90- 96, 102,
112, 113, 153, 157, 178, 206, 208, 213. 227, 229,
232, 234, 235, 236, 237, 238, 239, 242, 246, 258.
267, 269, 270, 271, 272-273, 275, 277, 278. 281,
282, 291, 297, 301, 305, 306, 312, 313, 315, 317.
318, 319, 324, 325, 334, 336, 337
Clothing in West Bohemia
in 15th to 17th Century
The aim of this thesis is to describe the clothing situation in the area of West Bohemia from
the 15th tol7th century using, in the first place, preserved objects originating in this particular
area. Attention was focused on extant material artefacts and iconographie sources related to
clothes, shoes, accessories and appearance typical for this particular period and locality. Research
took place mainly in movable funds of historical buildings and in collections of museums in
West Bohemia.
The theoretical part deals with the situation in West Bohemia and development of clothes
and patterns in European context. Therefore, the development of clothing line and pattern is
described on the basis of analysis of pattern solutions of extant clothes in European context.
Transformation of patterns represented a part of changes of the global line and influenced final
appearance of clothes. Pattern changes occurred together with development of tailor s craft and
technology used for completion of clothes. It was then necessary to form new underneath pieces
of clothing that adjusted the shape of body to new line. In the second half of the 16th century,
a new fashion phenomenon was discovered. This phenomenon artificially modified natural shape
of human body and transformed it into the current preferred standard.
In the part which focuses on particular clothing elements of men, women and children in
the chosen time period, the author compares data coming from analysis of extant textile re-
mains, iconography and textile sources taking into account preserved objects of chosen locality.
Deposition, pattern development and technological particularity are described too. Presented
patterns are supported with their references in pattern books and extant clothes in the Czech
and European context. If the particular piece of clothing is present in West Bohemia, its detailed
analysis follows. The choice of clothes of all social groups was influenced by events that the peo-
ple participated in. Such events and choice of clothes in various social groups are described in the
chapter Clothes in Life.
The following chapters deal with history of materials and technologies used for clothes pro-
duction and decoration. Textiles are very sensitive to surrounding conditions and prone to deteri-
oration and decay. The part dedicated to textile materials endeavors to outline the possibilities of
their acquisition in West Bohemia and to describe historical methods of their treatment and pro-
cessing. It is possible to distinguish different intensity of using flax, wool, hemp, silk, cotton and
nettle. Flax and wool may be characterized as the most commonly used materials which could
be given mainly by the fact that growing flax and sheep husbandry were literally omnipresent in
the past. This presumption may be proven by extant data originating in West Bohemian docu-
ments including information related to levies and corvée obligation connected to textile produc-
tion. On the other hand, silk was imported to Bohemia from Italy and it was considered to be
a luxurious material intended for clothes of wealthy people. Silk fabric was used by West
Bohemian nobility and townspeople. For example, townspeople used silk for production of li-
turgical clothes which were meant to be donated to churches. Also cotton was imported either in
the form of fabric or in the form of semi-finished material. Apart from the list of period offer of
fabrics and their specific names, several notes related to prices, trading with fabrics between West
Bohemian towns and export of textile goods are included in this chapter as well.
f Bayerische
Staatsbibticrthek
München
is ch
3
The following chapter deals with sewing techniques and decorative components. It is nec-
essary to realize that technology of hand sewing is completely different from modern methods
using sewing machine. Author of the thesis analyses particular types of seams, their forms and
methods not-to-unpick them which enabled a larger variability of completion of clothes than
a bound machine seam. Decorative techniques are divided according to their technological type.
Their history and usage are described as well. The part dedicated to production of clothes and
shoes in West Bohemia deals with functioning of particular crafts and their guilds. The main task
of guilds was to guarantee the quality of produced goods, to protect the members and to partic-
ipate in public activities. As far as shoes are concerned in this period, we can talk about a new
method of frame sewing. It is interesting to realize that repairing clothes, home production and
handwork represented an inseparable part of clothes production. Classification and technological
analysis were drawn up on the basis of experimental activity of author of this thesis.
A catalogue of extant objects and iconography represents a part of the thesis as well. The
catalogue is divided into three parts according to the origin of the preserved objects. The first
part includes objects whose origin and relation to chosen area is verifiable. For example: extant
textile remains, epitaphs or representative portraits. The second part of catalogue comprises
objects whose origin is uncertain but it is possible that they come from the chosen locality.
It is mainly about paintings and portraits of unclear provenance. The third part includes rep-
resentation of historical personalities who either came from the West Bohemia or spent a part
of their life in this area.
-He ^ 8
Obsah Oděv v západních Čechách 15. až 17. století Region západních Cech 9 11 Vývoj střihových řešení, siluety a stylu 13 Pto obě poMaví 25 Pánský šatník 66 Dámský šatník 89 Oděvy dětí 111 Oděv v životě 119 Textilní materiály a technologie uplatňující se při výrobě látek 163 Technologie 177 Výroba oděvů a obuvi, řemesla spjatá s výrobou, obchodování 205 Závěrem 217 Katalog pramenů к poznání vývoje oděvu v západních Čechách 221 Část I. Předměty s prokázaným původem či jinou jasnou vazbou na lokalitu 222 Část II. Díla nejasného původu s anonymním autorem 308 Část III. Díla spojená s osobnostmi s vazbou na západní Čechy (výběr) 333 Prameny a literatura 338 Seznam fotografií 350 Rejstřík jmenný 356 Rejstřík věcný 359 Rejstřík místopisný 363
|
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| author | Pilná, Veronika 1982- |
| author_GND | (DE-588)1176998617 |
| author_facet | Pilná, Veronika 1982- |
| author_role | aut |
| author_sort | Pilná, Veronika 1982- |
| author_variant | v p vp |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV045437926 |
| classification_rvk | LL 56460 |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)1085398821 (DE-599)BVBBV045437926 |
| discipline | Kunstgeschichte |
| edition | Vydání první |
| era | Geschichte 1400-1700 gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 1400-1700 |
| format | Book |
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| geographic | Böhmische Länder (DE-588)4069573-6 gnd Westböhmisches Gebiet (DE-588)4079210-9 gnd |
| geographic_facet | Böhmische Länder Westböhmisches Gebiet |
| id | DE-604.BV045437926 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2024-07-10T08:18:09Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9788085035520 |
| language | Czech |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-030823492 |
| oclc_num | 1085398821 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | DE-12 DE-M157 DE-M17 |
| owner_facet | DE-12 DE-M157 DE-M17 |
| physical | 365 Seiten Illustrationen, Karten, Porträts |
| psigel | BSB_NED_20200914 |
| publishDate | 2018 |
| publishDateSearch | 2018 |
| publishDateSort | 2018 |
| publisher | Národní památkový ústav, územní odborné pracoviště v Plzni |
| record_format | marc |
| spelling | Pilná, Veronika 1982- Verfasser (DE-588)1176998617 aut Oděv v západních Čechách 15. až 17. století = Kleidung in Westböhmen im 15.-17. Jahrhundert = Clothing in West Bohemia in 15th to 17th century Veronika Pilná Kleidung in Westböhmen im 15.-17. Jahrhundert Clothing in West Bohemia in 15th to 17th century Vydání první Plzeň Národní památkový ústav, územní odborné pracoviště v Plzni 2018 365 Seiten Illustrationen, Karten, Porträts txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Zusammenfassung auf Deutsch und Englisch Geschichte 1400-1700 gnd rswk-swf Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd rswk-swf Böhmische Länder (DE-588)4069573-6 gnd rswk-swf Westböhmisches Gebiet (DE-588)4079210-9 gnd rswk-swf Böhmische Länder (DE-588)4069573-6 g Westböhmisches Gebiet (DE-588)4079210-9 g Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 s Geschichte 1400-1700 z DE-604 Digitalisierung BSB München 25 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=030823492&sequence=000005&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Literaturverzeichnis Digitalisierung BSB München 25 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=030823492&sequence=000006&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Register // Personenregister Digitalisierung BSB München 25 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=030823492&sequence=000007&line_number=0003&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Register // Sachregister Digitalisierung BSB München 25 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=030823492&sequence=000008&line_number=0004&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Abstract Digitalisierung BSB München 25 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=030823492&sequence=000009&line_number=0005&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Pilná, Veronika 1982- Oděv v západních Čechách 15. až 17. století = Kleidung in Westböhmen im 15.-17. Jahrhundert = Clothing in West Bohemia in 15th to 17th century Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4031011-5 (DE-588)4069573-6 (DE-588)4079210-9 |
| title | Oděv v západních Čechách 15. až 17. století = Kleidung in Westböhmen im 15.-17. Jahrhundert = Clothing in West Bohemia in 15th to 17th century |
| title_alt | Kleidung in Westböhmen im 15.-17. Jahrhundert Clothing in West Bohemia in 15th to 17th century |
| title_auth | Oděv v západních Čechách 15. až 17. století = Kleidung in Westböhmen im 15.-17. Jahrhundert = Clothing in West Bohemia in 15th to 17th century |
| title_exact_search | Oděv v západních Čechách 15. až 17. století = Kleidung in Westböhmen im 15.-17. Jahrhundert = Clothing in West Bohemia in 15th to 17th century |
| title_full | Oděv v západních Čechách 15. až 17. století = Kleidung in Westböhmen im 15.-17. Jahrhundert = Clothing in West Bohemia in 15th to 17th century Veronika Pilná |
| title_fullStr | Oděv v západních Čechách 15. až 17. století = Kleidung in Westböhmen im 15.-17. Jahrhundert = Clothing in West Bohemia in 15th to 17th century Veronika Pilná |
| title_full_unstemmed | Oděv v západních Čechách 15. až 17. století = Kleidung in Westböhmen im 15.-17. Jahrhundert = Clothing in West Bohemia in 15th to 17th century Veronika Pilná |
| title_short | Oděv v západních Čechách 15. až 17. století |
| title_sort | odev v zapadnich cechach 15 az 17 stoleti kleidung in westbohmen im 15 17 jahrhundert clothing in west bohemia in 15th to 17th century |
| title_sub | = Kleidung in Westböhmen im 15.-17. Jahrhundert = Clothing in West Bohemia in 15th to 17th century |
| topic | Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd |
| topic_facet | Kleidung Böhmische Länder Westböhmisches Gebiet |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=030823492&sequence=000005&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=030823492&sequence=000006&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=030823492&sequence=000007&line_number=0003&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=030823492&sequence=000008&line_number=0004&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=030823492&sequence=000009&line_number=0005&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
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