Critical fashion practice: from Westwood to Van Beirendonck
"There is a new form of design practice within the contemporary fashion industry which is active in complex forms of social commentary and critique. While fashion in the modernist era has shown signs of criticism and subversion, these were either in the form of subcultures or perversions, such...
Gespeichert in:
| Hauptverfasser: | , |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
London ; Oxford ; New York ; New Delhi ; Sydney
Bloomsbury Academic
2017
|
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Zusammenfassung: | "There is a new form of design practice within the contemporary fashion industry which is active in complex forms of social commentary and critique. While fashion in the modernist era has shown signs of criticism and subversion, these were either in the form of subcultures or perversions, such as punk or BDSM styling. Today, however, these genres have been absorbed into the fashion industry itself, meaning that "critical fashion" is now far from limited to the subcultures from which it came. This book explores this new space for criticism within the popular fashion sphere to demonstrate how designers are disrupting conventions, challenging beliefs and stirring change from within the system itself. Critical Fashion Practice considers a range of contemporary designers across the globe, from the US to Japan, whose conceptual designs embody this critical language, including case studies such as Rei Kawakubo's deconstructive silhouettes for Comme des Garçons and Walter Van Beirendonck's sadomasochistic menswear collections, amongst other key players such as Miuccia Prada, Vivienne Westwood and Viktor & Rolf. Arguing that the rise of critical fashion coincides with a noticeable decline in the criticality of art, Geczy and Karaminas go beyond slotting fashion into previously established art theories. Conceiving a new cultural role for fashion that affords insight into identity, class, race, sexuality and gender, this book shows how fashion can not only reflect and comment on, but can also be a part of social change"... |
| Beschreibung: | Includes bibliographical references and index |
| Beschreibung: | XV, 200 Seiten, 16 ungezählte Seiten Bildtafeln Illustrationen |
| ISBN: | 9781474265539 9781474265522 |
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| 520 | |a "There is a new form of design practice within the contemporary fashion industry which is active in complex forms of social commentary and critique. While fashion in the modernist era has shown signs of criticism and subversion, these were either in the form of subcultures or perversions, such as punk or BDSM styling. Today, however, these genres have been absorbed into the fashion industry itself, meaning that "critical fashion" is now far from limited to the subcultures from which it came. This book explores this new space for criticism within the popular fashion sphere to demonstrate how designers are disrupting conventions, challenging beliefs and stirring change from within the system itself. Critical Fashion Practice considers a range of contemporary designers across the globe, from the US to Japan, whose conceptual designs embody this critical language, including case studies such as Rei Kawakubo's deconstructive silhouettes for Comme des Garçons and Walter Van Beirendonck's sadomasochistic menswear collections, amongst other key players such as Miuccia Prada, Vivienne Westwood and Viktor & Rolf. Arguing that the rise of critical fashion coincides with a noticeable decline in the criticality of art, Geczy and Karaminas go beyond slotting fashion into previously established art theories. Conceiving a new cultural role for fashion that affords insight into identity, class, race, sexuality and gender, this book shows how fashion can not only reflect and comment on, but can also be a part of social change"... | ||
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Datensatz im Suchindex
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|---|---|
| adam_text | CRITICAL FASHION PRACTICE
/ GECZY, ADAMYYEAUTHOR
: 2017
TABLE OF CONTENTS / INHALTSVERZEICHNIS
INTRODUCTION: FROM SUBCULTURE TO HIGH CULTURE 1. VIVIENNE WESTWOOD S
UNRULY RESISTANCE
2. REI KAWAKUBO S DECONSTRUCTIVE SILHOUETTE
3. GARETH PUGH S CORPOREAL UNCOMMENSURABILITIES
4. MIUCCIA PRADA S INDUSTRIAL MATERIALISM
5. AITOR THROUP S ANATOMICAL NARRATIVES
6. VIKTOR AND ROLF S CONCEPTUAL IMMATERIALITIES
7. RAD HOURANI S QUEER AGNOSTICS
8. RICK OWENS GENDER PERFORMATIVITIES
9. WALTER VAN BEIRENDOCK S HYBRID SCIENCE FICTIONS CONCLUSION: TO
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, IN MEMORIUM BIBLIOGRAPHY
INDEX
DIESES SCHRIFTSTUECK WURDE MASCHINELL ERZEUGT.
Titel: Critical fashion practice
Autor: Geczy, Adam
Jahr: 2017
CONTENTS List of Illustrations xii Acknowledgments xvi Introduction: From Subculture to High Culture 1 1 Vivienne Westwood’s Unruly Resistance g Sltuationism 11 “Let It Rock,” “Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die,” “SEX,” “Sedltionaries” and “World’s End” 12 Boutique bricoleur: the meaning of DIY style 16 Punk and after: the ontology of contemporary fashion 18 Westwood In the 1980s 20 For the love of Engllshness: “Harris Tweed,” “Britain Must Go Pagan” and “Anglomania” 25 Active resistance to propaganda 27 2 Rei Kawakubo’s Deconstructivist Silhouette 29 Deconstruction 30 Deconstruction and architecture 33 Deconstruction and fashion 35 Unclear culture 38 The inside and outside of clothing 39 Undead minimalism 42 3 Gareth Pugh’s Corporeal Uncommensurabilities 45 Masks and performance 47 Posthumanity and dolls 50 Immaterial and Imaginary fashion 55
X CONTENTS 4 Miuccia Prada’s Industrial Materialism 6i Making ugly cool 64 Creative collaborations 65 Prada and cinema 74 5 Aitor Throup’s Anatomical Narratives n Splnozist fashion 78 Fields of fantasy 80 The work of fashion in the age of digital reproducibility 84 He’s got legs and knows how to use them 87 Skulls, armor and renunciation 89 6 Viktor Rolf’s Conceptual Immaterialities 91 Conceptual art versus conceptual fashion 93 The appearance of nothing 95 Ciphers 97 Dolls 100 “No” and beyond 104 7 Rad Hourani’s Gender Agnostics 105 Unisex, unsex and the tyranny of gender 106 Androgyny and the different “third terms” 109 The body in movement 1 15 Fashion as installation 11 7 8 Rick Owens’s Gender Performativities 121 Minimalism 122 Glamour, decadence and decay 1 25 Spatial art and design, installation and furniture 130 Fashion’s avant-garde 131 Performance art, performing fashion and gender 1 33 9 Walter van Beirendonck’s Hybrid Science Fictions 139 The 1980s in London 142 Fetishism, clowns, ritual 145
CONTENTS xi Headgear and masks 148 Bodily mutations, shapes and beauty 153 Conclusion: To Alexander McQueen, in Memoriam 157 Notes 161 Bibliography 179 Index 189
|
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| author | Geczy, Adam 1969- Karaminas, Vicki ca. 20. Jh |
| author_GND | (DE-588)122963512 (DE-588)137888031 |
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| discipline | Kunstgeschichte |
| format | Book |
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| spelling | Geczy, Adam 1969- (DE-588)122963512 aut Critical fashion practice from Westwood to Van Beirendonck Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas London ; Oxford ; New York ; New Delhi ; Sydney Bloomsbury Academic 2017 XV, 200 Seiten, 16 ungezählte Seiten Bildtafeln Illustrationen txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Includes bibliographical references and index "There is a new form of design practice within the contemporary fashion industry which is active in complex forms of social commentary and critique. While fashion in the modernist era has shown signs of criticism and subversion, these were either in the form of subcultures or perversions, such as punk or BDSM styling. Today, however, these genres have been absorbed into the fashion industry itself, meaning that "critical fashion" is now far from limited to the subcultures from which it came. This book explores this new space for criticism within the popular fashion sphere to demonstrate how designers are disrupting conventions, challenging beliefs and stirring change from within the system itself. Critical Fashion Practice considers a range of contemporary designers across the globe, from the US to Japan, whose conceptual designs embody this critical language, including case studies such as Rei Kawakubo's deconstructive silhouettes for Comme des Garçons and Walter Van Beirendonck's sadomasochistic menswear collections, amongst other key players such as Miuccia Prada, Vivienne Westwood and Viktor & Rolf. Arguing that the rise of critical fashion coincides with a noticeable decline in the criticality of art, Geczy and Karaminas go beyond slotting fashion into previously established art theories. Conceiving a new cultural role for fashion that affords insight into identity, class, race, sexuality and gender, this book shows how fashion can not only reflect and comment on, but can also be a part of social change"... DESIGN / Fashion bisacsh DESIGN / History & Criticism bisacsh DESIGN / Textile & Costume bisacsh ART / Performance bisacsh Gesellschaft Fashion Social aspects Fashion design Social aspects DESIGN / Fashion DESIGN / History & Criticism DESIGN / Textile & Costume ART / Performance Ästhetik (DE-588)4000626-8 gnd rswk-swf Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd rswk-swf Modeschöpfer (DE-588)4233568-1 gnd rswk-swf Subkultur (DE-588)4058326-0 gnd rswk-swf Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 s Modeschöpfer (DE-588)4233568-1 s Subkultur (DE-588)4058326-0 s Ästhetik (DE-588)4000626-8 s DE-604 Karaminas, Vicki ca. 20. Jh. (DE-588)137888031 aut Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe, PDF Geczy, Adam Critical fashion practice New York : Bloomsbury Academic, 2017 978-1-4742-6554-6 Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe, EPUB Geczy, Adam Critical fashion practice New York : Bloomsbury Academic, 2017 978-1-4742-6555-3 LoC Fremddatenuebernahme application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=029618467&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis HBZ Datenaustausch application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=029618467&sequence=000003&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
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| title_auth | Critical fashion practice from Westwood to Van Beirendonck |
| title_exact_search | Critical fashion practice from Westwood to Van Beirendonck |
| title_full | Critical fashion practice from Westwood to Van Beirendonck Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas |
| title_fullStr | Critical fashion practice from Westwood to Van Beirendonck Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas |
| title_full_unstemmed | Critical fashion practice from Westwood to Van Beirendonck Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas |
| title_short | Critical fashion practice |
| title_sort | critical fashion practice from westwood to van beirendonck |
| title_sub | from Westwood to Van Beirendonck |
| topic | DESIGN / Fashion bisacsh DESIGN / History & Criticism bisacsh DESIGN / Textile & Costume bisacsh ART / Performance bisacsh Gesellschaft Fashion Social aspects Fashion design Social aspects DESIGN / Fashion DESIGN / History & Criticism DESIGN / Textile & Costume ART / Performance Ästhetik (DE-588)4000626-8 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Modeschöpfer (DE-588)4233568-1 gnd Subkultur (DE-588)4058326-0 gnd |
| topic_facet | DESIGN / Fashion DESIGN / History & Criticism DESIGN / Textile & Costume ART / Performance Gesellschaft Fashion Social aspects Fashion design Social aspects Ästhetik Mode Modeschöpfer Subkultur |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=029618467&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=029618467&sequence=000003&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT geczyadam criticalfashionpracticefromwestwoodtovanbeirendonck AT karaminasvicki criticalfashionpracticefromwestwoodtovanbeirendonck |
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