Evoluţia interferenţelor stilistice ale portului popular în zonele Banatului românesc şi sârbesc: (1890-1930)
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Editura Universităţii de Vest
2016
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| Schriftenreihe: | Colecţia Biblioteca de cecetare Seria de antropologie/etnologie
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CUPRINS
Prefaţă / 7
I
Introducere /10
Capitolul 1. Portul popular din Banatul românesc şi sârbesc —
perspectivă istorică şi etnografică /13
1.1. Cercetări anterioare / 13
1.2. Banatul — scurt istoric /16
1.2.1. Populaţia din Banatul istoric: naţionalităţile şi ocupaţiile /19
1.3. Arealul etnografic al Banatului /21
1.3.1. Zone etnografice din Banat — sub regiunea Timiş / 22
1.3.2. Zone etnografice din Banat — subregiunea Caraş-Severin / 23
1.3.3. Zone etnografice din Banatul sârbesc / 26
1.4. Structura portului popular românesc din Banat / 29
1.4.1. Costumul popular / 30
1.4.2. Elementele constitutive ale pieselor care alcătuiesc
costumul popular din Banat /31
1.5. Decoraţia portului popular / 32
1.5.1 Forma în creaţia tradiţională /33
1.5.2. Ornamentica portului popular / 34
1.5.2-1.Clasificare ornamentală /35
1.5-2.2. Motive de largă circulaţie în spaţiul european şi extra-european /41
1.5.3. Tehnici de realizare a decoraţiei costumului popular românesc / 44
Capitolul 2. Portul popular din zonele etnografice ale
Banatului — subregiunea Timiş / 49
2.1. Portul popular din subregiunea etnografică Timiş / 49
2.1.1. Portul femeiesc /51
2.1.1.1. Găteala capului în zonele etnografice din Timiş /51
2.1.1.2. Veşmintele trupului /58
2.1.1.2.1. Cămaşa femeiască / 59
2.1.1.2.2. Poalele cămăşii / 66
2.1.1.2.3. Opregul cu ciucuri şi cătrinţa / 69
2.1.1.2.4. Cingătoriile / 76
2.1.1.2.5. Pieptarele / 78
2.1.1.2.6. Cromatica portului popular femeiesc /81
2.1.1.3. Accesorii / 83
2.1.2. Portul bărbătesc / 86
2.1.3. Piese femeieşti şi bărbăteşti pentru vreme friguroasa / 99
5
Capitolul 3. Portul popular din zonele etnografice ale Banatului
— sub regi unea Caraş-Severin /103
3.1. Costumul popular din zonele etnografice ale Caraş-Severinului /103
3.1.1. Găteala capului în zonele etnografice din Caraş-Severin /103
3.1.2. Costumul popular din zona etnografica Valea Bistrei /106
3.1.3. Costumul popular din zona etnografică Almăj /107
3.1.3.1. Costumul popular din Cărbunari /113
3.1.4. Costumul popular din zona etnografică Reşiţa-Oraviţa /120
Capitolul 4. Portul popular din zonele etnografice ale Banatului sârbesc /125
4.1. Populaţia românească în Banatul sârbesc /125
4.1.1. Portul popular din localităţile cu populaţie crişano-ardelenească /126
4.1.2. Portul popular din localităţile cu populaţie oltenească /141
4.1.3. Portul popular din localităţile cu populaţie bănăţeană /161
4.1.3.1. Portul bănăţean al grupului format din localităţile: Seleuş, Bariţe,
Nicolinţi, Alibunar, Mărgita, Vladimirovaţ, Uzdin /160
4.1.3.2. Portul bănăţean al grupului de localităţi:
Ecica, Toracul Mare, Sutiesca /173
4.1.3.3. Portul bănăţean al grupului de sate din zona Vârşeţului /183
Capitolul 5. Cercetare comparată a portului popular din zonele etnografice
ale Banatului românesc şi Banatului sârbesc /193
5.1 Ornamentaţia costumului popular din Banat /193
5.2. Caracteristici etnografice zonale ale pieselor din compoziţia
costumului popular din Banat /195
5.3. Influenţe asupra evoluţiei costumului popular din Banat /198
Glosar /201
Bibliografie / 209
Ilustraţii /211
Summary /217
Resume/ 221
6
BIBLIOGRAFIE
1. Academia Republicii Populare Române, Dicţionar Enciclopedic Român, Bucureşti,
Editura Politică, 1962-1964.
2. Bănăţeanu,Tancred, Prolegomene la o teorie a esteticii artei populare, Bucureşti,
Editura Minerva, 1985.
3. Batea, Maria, Costumul popular românesc, f.o., Datini, 1996.
4. Bâtcă, Maria; Fulga, Ligia, Vestimentaţia tradiţională a românilor din Torac՜
Voivodina (Serbia), în „Tradiţia“, an XII, nr. 29-30, Novi Sad, 2006.
5. Bizerea, Márius, Banatul ca unitate şi individualitate istorico-geografică, în cadrul
pământului locuit de români, în Tibiscus Etnografie, 1975.
6. Dunăre, Nicolae, Ornamentică tradiţională comparată, Bucureşti, Editura
Meridiane, 1979.
7. Folea-Troceanu, Iuliana; Sfetcu, Oc tavi an, Colecţia de arta populară bănăţeană
,Juliana Folea-Troceanu” din Buziaş — Catalog, Timişoara, Comitetul de Cultură
şi Educaţie Socialistă al Judeţului Timiş, 1977.
8. Formagiu, H.M., Portul popular din România, Catalog tipologic, Bucureşti,
Muzeul de Artă Populară România, 1974.
9. Gaga, Lidia, Zona etnografică Almăj, Bucureşti, Sport-Turism, 1984.
10. Işfanoni, Doina; Popoiu, Paula, Costumul românesc de patrimoniu din colecţiile
Muzeului Naţional al Satului „Dimitrie Gu$tľ\ Bucureşti, Alcor Edimpex, 2008.
11. Jompan, Aurelia; Jompan, Dumitru, Găteala capului la femei în Valea Bis trei,
Reşiţa, Centrul Judeţean de îndrumare a Creaţiei Populare şi a Mişcării Artistice
de Masă, 1972.
12. Maluckov, Mirjana, Narodna nošnja rumuna u jugoslovenskom Banatu, Novi Sad,
Vojvođanski muzej u Novom Sadu, 1973.
13. Marian, S.F1.; Pamfile, Tudor; Lupescu, Mihai, Cromatica portului român,
Bucureşti, SAECULUM I.O., 2002.
14. Măran, Mircea, Localităţi bănăţene: trecut istoric şi cultural, Panciova, Libertatea,
2003.
15. Măran, Mircea, Kulturne prilike kod rumuna u Banatu 1945-1952y Vršac, Visoka
škola za obrazovanje vaspitača „Mihajlo Pavlov“, 2008.
16\ Monografia Voivodinţului (1447-2007). File din trecut şi prezent, Vârşeţ,
Comunitatea Românilor din Serbia, 2007.
17. Munteanu, Ioan, Banatul istoric 1867-1918, Voi. 2. Ocupaţii. Economia,
Timişoara, Editura Excelsior art, 2007,
18. Pârnac, Iulian-Liviu, Imaginea Transilvaniei în viaţa publică din România în anii
1866-1876, Bucureşti, Facultatea de Istorie — Şcoala Doctorală, 2008.
19. Petrescu, Paul, Costumul popular din Transilvania şi Banat, fio., Editura de stat
didactică şi pedagogică, 1959.
209
Evoluţia interferenţelor stilistice ale portului popular în zonele Banatului
românesc si sârbesc (1890-1930)
20. Petrescu, Paul, Broderii pe piele în Arta Populară Românească, Bucureşti, Editura
Meridiane, 1968.
21. Petrescu, Paul; Stoica, Georgeta, Arta Populară Românească, Bucureşti, Editura
Meridiane, 1981.
22. Petrescu, Paul, Barocul etnografiei româneşti, în Arcade în timp, Bucureşti, Editura
Eminescu, 1983.
23. Popi, Gligor, Rumuni u jugoslavenskom Banatu između dva rata(1918-Î94Î),
Novi Sad, Institut za izučavanje istorije Vojvodine, 1976.
24. Prut, Constantin, Calea rătăcită: o privire asupra artei populare româneşti,
Timişoara, Editura Fundaţiei Interart Triade, 2012.
23. Roşu, Costa; Filip, Pavel P, Begheiţi (Torac) — pagini din trecut si de azi, Begheiţi,
Conferinţa locală a U.S.P.M.V. din Begheiţi, 1976.
26. Sfetcu, Octavian; Moise, Nicolae, Silagiu — Pagini de istorie din vremi apuse si
contemporane, Contribuţii la istoria Silagiului, Timişoara, Editura Pardon, 2006.
27. Stoica, Georgeta, Podoabe Populare Româneşti, Bucureşti Editura Meridiane,
1976.
28. Stoica, Georgeta; Petrescu, Paul, Dicţionar de artă populară, Bucureşti, Editura
Enciclopedică, 1997.
29. Taban, Mircea; Stankov, Vesna , Portul popular de pe văile Carasului şi Nerei,
Sibiu, Astra Museum, 2012.
30. Taban, Mircea, Catalogul colecţiei etnografice a Muzeului Banatului Montan,
Reşiţa, Editura TIM, 2008.
31. Tăutu-Stănescu, Natalia, Aplicaţii de broderii româneşti Iaşi, Editura Albatros,
1972.
32. Tipa, Violeta; Gogolan, Aristidą, Comori bănăţene: port popular, ţesături, cusături,
broderii. Catalogul colecţiei Violeta Tipa, Timişoara, Editura Eurostampa, 2010.
33. Tomida E.D., Cusăturile şi Broderiile Costumului Popular din România, f.o.,
România, Editura Tehnica, 1970.
34. Turcuş, Aurel, Muzeografie timişoreană (1872-1972),Timişoara, Editura
Eurostampa, 2011.
35. Turcuş, Aristidą, Portul popular românesc din judeţul Timiş, Timişoara, Centrul
Judeţean de îndrumare a Creaţiei Populare şi a Mişcării Artistice de Masă, 1982.
36. http://ebooks.unibuc.ro/filologie/morar- Estetica-imerpretări şi texte / VIII con-
ceptul de forma/ 2. Gheorghe Achiţei, conceptul de formă (acesat în 07.02.2013).
37. www.banaterra.eu — Enciclopedia Banatului, 2006-2011, Proiectul Rastko
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38. www.dtstv.ro/mehedinti/portul-popular (accesat în 10.11.2013).
39. www.romanianmuseum.com/romanian folk Costumes (accesat în 09.12.2011).
210
SUMMARY
As a reference field of Romanian Folk Art, folk garments compile an assem-
bly of clothing, which is specific for the rural population of a certain geographical
area; it is characterized by a great typological diversity, within an exemplary stylistic
unity. The element that differentiates the traditional folk garment on ethnographic
areas, genders, age, social and civil status, conferring a unique status to each wearer, is
the repertoire of figurative and decorative elements used and the manner of technological
transposing.
The functioning of the unity in diversity principle for dozens and hundreds of
years, explains the particularities of traditional folk garments, accomplished by the
creativity and artistry of thousands of Romanian women in Romanian villages, who
generation after generation, knew how to smooth and perfect the tailoring and em-
broidery techniques, and also the decorative repertoires of celebration and ceremonial
garments.
Chapter I: Folk garments in the Romanian and Serbian Banat
— a historical and ethnographical perspective.
Introduction. Throughout history, the structure and evolution of the folk gar-
ments kept many of their defining characteristics unaltered. Because of different life
circumstances due to geographical, occupational, social and ethnic diversity, the main
type of folk garment is known in many versions, adapted to specific particularities of
the socio-economic and cultural profile of each group of people.
We want to perform an interdisciplinary research from this point of view,
based on direct observation methods, interviews and comparison of information re-
sulted from studying folk garments in the Romanian and Serbian Banat, in order
to contribute to a better knowledge of life, history and origins of certain groups of
Romanians in this province.
In order to achieve these scientific fundaments for our paper, we decided upon
a bibliographical investigation in the archives, in specialized museums and in the
field, following the synchronic and diachronic evolution of the folk garments within
Romanian communities, in a clearly specified historic time. Considering the fact that
there are very few historic documents describing old Romanian folk garments, we will
focus on researching and describing the Romanian folk garments between the years
1890-1930.
The morphologic and stylistic analysis of all the pieces that make up the tra-
ditional folk garments of the inhabitants of this geographical area, as structure and
decorative system - types of tailoring, positioning of decorative motifs, compositi-
on types, motif categories, chromatics - corroborated with the oral history and the
217
Evoluţia interferenţelor stilistice ale portului popular în zonele Banatului
românesc si sârbesc (1890-1930)
customs of those who created and wore these garments, offers ethnographers and
anthropologists a rich documentary material in the re-composition and restitution of
the identity profile of the Romanians from the historical Banat.
Banat - short history. Banat is the historic province located in the south-
eastern extremity of the Mitteleuropa territory. The area of Banat, with the shape of
a square and natural boundaries — the river Mures on the North, the river Tisa on
the West and the Danube on the South; on the East side, there is a trek through the
Western Meridionali Carpati and the Southern Occidentali Carpati. The surface of
Banat is 28 526 square km, and it is divided between three countries today. Most of
it, about two thirds, belongs to Romania (18 966 square km), about one third belongs
to Serbia (9 276 square km), and a small part, 284 square km. belongs to Hungary.
Population of historical Banat — nationalities and occupations. According
to the census data provided by the Hungarian authorities, up to the First World
War, the Historic Banat, a multi-ethnic province, had a population made up of the
following: 37,6% Romanians, 24,5% Germans, 18,0% Serbians, 2 5,2% Hungarians
and 4,7% other nationalities (Bulgarians, Slovaks etc.) out of the whole population.
The Romanian population, depending upon occupations like agriculture, was 45,9%
(the highest percentage in Caras Severin, then in Timiş and Torontal), there were
also 16,8% Germans, 10,9% Hungarians, 20,6% Serbians; according to the census
of 1910.
Ethnographic area of Banat. „ The ethnographic area presents a more or less
precisely known territory, that is characterized by certain unifying ethnographic traits,
determined by historic and social tradition crystalized by the type of settlements, occupati-
ons, homes, garments, folk art, to which are added manifestations of spiritual culture and
way of life, ”
The ethnographic region of Banat, with two sub-regions, Timiş and Caraş-
Severin, has 14 ethnographic areas, and the Romanians from the Serbian Banat, a
sub-region which belongs to the ethnographic region of Romanians living in the
Balkans.
Structure of folk garments of Banat. However, the variety of the folk gar-
ments from the different ethnographical areas is part of a unity that is maintained
through a unique structure of the Romanian garment and it is present in all its es-
sential aspects as follows: using white fabric, tailoring based on cutting alongside the
straight thread, garment adornment based on manual embroidery techniques and a
refined coloring, based on clear, lightly shades related to the background, which was
always white.
Decoration of folk garments. The shape of the folk art objects reveals the
high degree of development of the artistic sense that folk creators achieved. The typo-
logical analysis of the traditional garments contributes to a deeper knowledge of the
esthetic sensitivity of the creators, visually communicating the level of competency of
218
Daniela Barb ulov Popov
those who tailored them. Over time, the folk garment becomes a true witness of the
ingenuity and originality of the rustic culture and civilization. The form of Romanian
folk art is permanently adequate to the utilitarian functions — practical — and esthetic,
expressed by the evolution of each piece — structure and chromatics — but also the ce-
remonial — symbolic function, supported by the decorative or morphological structure
of the created object.
The adornment of the Romanian folk garments is presented according to the
specialized structures and classifications, but also from the perspective of the specific
techniques of adornment execution of folk garments. Alongside the motifs that might
integrate the decorative composition of the pieces of the Romanian folk garment, there
are also some widely spread motifs seen in other European and extra-European areas.
Chapter 2: Folk garments in the ethnographic area of Banat —
the region of Timiş County.
The female folk garment from the lower geographical regions of Banat is hi-
ghlighted by the wear of chignon and opreg (a rectangular piece worn over the shirt).
The morphological and stylistic analysis for the type of traditional folk garment in the
ethnographic regions and sub-regions of Timiş, as it made itself clear in the second
half of the 19th century and at the beginning of the 20th century, proves its qualities.
According to the ethnographers’ opinions, it is considered as the expression of the
classic garment in Banat. As a decorative trait, during this period of time, it reached
one of the highest manifestations of its artistic development.
Chapter 3: Folk garments in the ethnographic area of Banat ֊
the region of Caras- Severin county.
From a morphologic point of view, the folk garment in the ethnographic areas
of Caraş-Severin features the Carpathic area type of garment, being differentiated by
the style of adornment and coloring combination of different pieces. The morpho-
logic and stylistic analysis of the pieces highlights as a definitive element, the head
adornment with ceapsa (decorated little bonnet) and wearing the opreg.
Chapter 4: Folk garments in the ethnographical areas of the
Serbian Banat.
In some areas of the Serbian Banat, the Romanian population has been menti-
oned in official documents of the time, since the Middle Ages. There is an even greater
number of Romanians who have settled in this area of Banat since the beginning
of the 18th century. The fact that over a relatively small area, as the Serbian Banat,
219
Evoluţia interferenţelor stilistice ale portului popular în zonele Banatului
românesc ţi sârbesc (1890-1930)
Romanians lived alongside the majority ethnic population of Serbians, and other
minority groups - Hungarians, Germans, Slovaks and other ethnicities - leads to mu-
tual cultural, spiritual and linguistic influences. In such an area of ethnical diversity,
the Romanian community continued to depend upon the culture it belonged to, the
culture its people identify with and are defined by.
Although the Romanian folk garments have a fundamentally united struc-
ture, it developed different particularities throughout history for each region. The
Romanian national identity of the minorities from the Serbian Banat is not uniform,
if we are strictly referring to local identity, even though at the level of the folk gar-
ments we can still notice a clear distinction between people from Banat, Ardeal and
Oltenia.
Through a morphologic and stylistic analysis of the Romanian folk garments
of each group of Romanians, we tried to highlight the specifics of these garments,
based on the area of their origin for the Romanians from the Serbian Banat and
where they originally came from. The structure or detail differences for some pieces
were followed by making a comparison between the Romanian folk garments from
the Romanian area and the Romanian folk garments from the Serbian area, where
Romanians are a minority.
There is a rich photographic illustration with this paper, that has been per-
sonally identified, researched and catalogued and accompanies the whole work as a
visual witness in order to prove the typological unity of the Romanian folk garments
in the historic Banat and its inexhaustible figurative and decorative diversity, dictated
by the evolution of the artistic taste, the technological advancements, but also by
mentalities.
220
RÉSUMÉ
Domaine de référence de l’art populaire roumain, le port populaire forme un
ensemble de pièces vestimentaires spécifique à la population rurale d’une certaine
région géographique; il est caractérisé d’une grande diversité typologique dans le ca-
dre d’une unité stylistique exemplaire. L’élément qui différencie le costume populaire
traditionnel en fonction des régions ethnographiques, sexes, âge, statut social et civil,
tout en conférant un statut incomparable à chaque possesseur c’est le répertoire des
éléments a rústico -déco rati ves utilisés et leur manière de transposition technologique.
C’est le fonctionnement du principe unité dans la diversité pendant des
décennies et même des siècles qui explique les particularités du port populaire tra-
ditionnel réalisé par la créativité et la maîtrise des milliers de femmes des villages
roumains qui, générations après générations, ont su raffiner, tout en perfectionnant,
la couture, les techniques de broderie et les répertoires décoratives des costumes de
fête et cérémonie.
Chapitre 1: Le port populaire du Banat serbe et roumain —
perspective historique et ethnographique
Introduction: Au cours de l’histoire, la structure et l’évolution du costume
populaire a gardé inaltérés beaucoup de traits définitoires. A cause des conditions
différentes de vie du point de vue géographique, occupationnel, social et ethnique,
le type principal de costume a connu d’innombrables variantes adaptées aux particu-
larités spécifiques au profil socio-économique et culturel de chaque groupe humain.
De ce point de vue nous nous proposons que notre approche soit de type interdisci-
plinaire, basé sur les méthodes de l’observation directe, de l’entretien et de la com-
paraison des informations résultant de l’étude du port populaire du Banat roumain
et serbe pour conduire à une meilleure connaissance de la vie, histoire et origines
de certains groupes de roumains de cette province. En vue de la réalisation de ces
fondements scientifiques de notre thèse nous nous sommes proposés la réalisation
d’investigations bibliographiques, d’archive, dans des musées de profil et sur terrain,
en suivant l’évolution synchronique et diachronique du port populaire auprès des
communautés roumaines dans une période historique bien délimitée. Comme sur le
port populaire roumain il y a peu de documents historiques anciens, nous allons fo-
caliser notre recherche sur la description du costume populaire roumain de la période
1890-1930. L’analyse morphologique et stylistique des pièces qui composent le costu-
me populaire traditionnel des habitants de cette région géographique, comme struc-
ture et système décoratif - types de coupe, emplacement des champs décoratifs, types
de compositions, catégories de motifs, chromatique - corroborée par l’histoire orale
et les coutumes de ceux qui ont créé et porter ces vêtements, offre aux ethnographes
221
Evoluţia interferenţelor stilistice ale portului popular în zonele Banatului
românesc şi sârbesc (1890-1930)
et aux anthropologues un riche matériel documentaire pour recomposer et restituer le
profil identitaire des roumains du Banat historique.
Le Banat — bref historique: Le Banat représente la province historique située
à l'extrémité sud-est de l'entité territoriale de Mitteleuropa. La région du Banat, ayant
approximativement la forme d'un carré, a comme limites naturelles, au nord la rivière
Mures, à l’ouest la rivière Tissa, au sud le fleuve Danube, et à l’est un trajet par l’ouest
des Carpates méridionales et par le sud des Carpates occidentales. La superficie du
Banat, de 28526 km2, est aujourd’hui partagée entre trois pays. La plus grande partie,
environ deux tiers, appartient à la Roumanie (18966 km2), environ une tiers appar-
tient à la Serbie (9276 km2), et une petite partie, 284 km2, appartient à la Hongrie.
Population dans le Banat historique - les nationalités et les occupations:
Conformément aux données du recensement effectué par les autorités hongroises,
jusqu’à la première guerre mondiale, le Banat historique, province multiethnique,
avait une population formée de: 37,6% roumains, 24,5% allemands, 18,0% serbes,
15,2% hongrois et 4,7% autres nationalités (bulgares, slovaques etc.) du total des
habitants. La population roumaine, dépendante des occupations comme l’agriculture,
était de 45,9% (le plus grand pourcentage en Caras Severin, puis en Timiş et Torontal),
les allemands représentaient 16,8%, les hongrois 10,9%, les serbes 20,6%, conformé-
ment au recensement de 1910.
Région ethnographique du Banat: ‘ ’La zone ethnographique présente un ter-
ritoire plus ou moins précisément délimité qui comporte des caractères ethnographiques
unitairesy déterminés par la tradition historico-sociale, cristallisés dans la manière des éta-
blissements, occupations, habitation, port, art populaire, auxquels on ajoute les manifesta-
tions de la culture spirituelle et le style de vie.”
La région ethnographique Banat, ayant deux sous-régions, Timiş et Caras-Severin,
comporte 14 zones ethnographiques, alors que les Roumains du Banat serbe, une sous-
région qui, en fait, appartient à la région ethnographique des Roumains des Balkans.
Structure du port populaire roumain du Banat: La variété du costume populai-
re des différentes zones ethnographiques s’inscrit cependant dans le cadre d’une unité qui
est maintenue par la structure unique du costume roumain et qui est présente dans tous ses
aspects essentiels: l'utilisation des tissus blancs, le coup suivant le fil droit, l’ornementation
des vêtements basé sur des techniques de la broderie manuelle, caractérisé par équilibre et
harmonie dans la composition des ornements, et un coloris raffiné, basé sur des nuances
claires, lumineuses en relation avec le fond, toujours la couleur blanche.
Décoration du port populaire: La forme des objets d'art populaire relève
le haut degré de développement du sens artistique atteint par les créateurs popu-
laires. L’analyse typologique des vêtements traditionnels contribue à la connaissance
de la sensibilité esthétique des créateurs en communicant visuellement le niveau des
compétences de ceux qui les ont créés. Au fil du temps le costume populaire devient
un vrai témoin de l’ingéniosité et de l’originalité de la culture et civilisation paysanne.
222
Daniela Barbulov Popov
La forme dans l’art populaire roumaine est toujours adaptée aux fonctions utilitaire-
pratiques et esthétiques exprimées par l’évolution de chaque pièce — structure et chro-
matique — ainsi que par la fonction cérémonial-symbolique soutenue par la structure
ornementale ou par la morphologie de l’objet crée.
L’ornementation du port populaire roumain est présentée conformément à la
structure et aux classifications de spécialité ainsi que de la perspective des techniques de
réalisation spécifiques à la décoration du costume populaire. A côté des motifs qui peu-
vent former la composition ornementale des pièces du costume populaire roumain sont
aussi présentés des motifs largement diffusés dans l’espace européen et extra-européen.
Chapitre 2: Le port populaire des régions ethnographiques
du Banat — la sous-région Timis
Le costume féminin du Banat de la région de plaine s’individualise par l’usage
de conci (cercle en bois, enroulé en toile, que les femmes mariées portent sur la tête,
au-dessous du foulard traditionnel) et àlopreg (un tissu rectangulaire aux franges porté
comme un tablier au-dessus de la chemise populaire). L’analyse morphologique et
stylistique du type de costume traditionnel de la région et des sous-régions ethnogra-
phiques Timis, tel qu’il s’est affirmé pendant la deuxième moitié du XIXème siècle et au
début du XXème, atteste ses qualités. Conformément à l’opinion des ethnographes il
est considéré l'expression classique du port du Banat. En ce qui concerne la décoration,
pendant cette période, elle a atteint le point culminant de sa réussite artistique.
Chapitre 3: Le port populaire des régions ethnographiques
du Banat — la sous-région Car as- Severin
Le costume populaire des régions ethnographiques du Caras-Severin s’encadre,
du point de vue morphologique, dans l’aire du costume de type carpatique, en étant di-
fférent par la manière de combiner les pièces, l’ornementation et la chromatique. L’analyse
morphologique et stylistique des pièces met en évidence comme élément distinctif les
ornements de la tête avec ceapsâ (petit bonnet en toile richement orné) et l’usage de Yopreg.
Chapitre 4: Port populaire des régions ethnographiques du
Banat serbe
Dans certaines régions du Banat serbe l’existence de la population roumai-
ne est certifiée dans les documents de l’époque dès le Moyen Age. Un nombre plus
grand de population roumaine s’est établi dans cette partie du Banat au début du
XVIIIeme siècle. Le fait que, sur une zone relativement restreinte comme le Banat ser-
be, les Roumains ont vécu à côté de l’ethnie serbe majoritaire et d’autres groupes
223
Evoluţia interferenţelor stilistice ale portului popular în zonele Banatului
românesc şi sârbesc (î890-1930)
minoritaires — Hongrois, Allemands, Slovaques et d’autres ethnies — mène aux influ-
ences réciproques sur le plan culturel, spirituel et linguistique. Dans une telle région
de la diversité ethnique, la communauté roumaine a continué de rester dépendante de
la culture à laquelle elle appartient, qui l’identifie et la définit.
Bien que le port roumain ait une structure de base unitaire, il a obtenu au fil
de l’histoire des particularités variées d’une région à l’autre. L’identité nationale rou-
maine des minorités du Banat serbe, si nous faisons référence strictement à l’identité
locale, n’est pas unitaire, même si au niveau du port populaire on peut encore observer
une distinction évidente entre banatiens, ardealiens et olténiens.
Par l’analyse morphologique et stylistique du costume populaire roumain de
chaque groupe de roumains, nous avons essayé de mettre en évidence le spécifique
de ce costume par rapport à l’origine des régions de provenance des Roumains du
Banat serbe. Nous avons suivi les différences de structure ou détail de certaines pièces
par le biais d’une parallèle entre le port des roumains du secteur roumain et celui des
Roumains de la Serbie où ils ont un statut de minorité.
Une riche illustration photographique, identifiée, étudiée et cataloguée per-
sonnellement accompagne comme témoin visuel toute la thèse afin de démontrer
l’unité typologique du port populaire roumain du Banat historique et son inépuisable
diversité artistico-décorative dictée par l’évolution du goût artistique, des connaissan-
ces technologiques et de la mentalité.
224 |
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| author | Barbulov Popov, Daniela ca. 20./21. Jh |
| author_GND | (DE-588)1119188326 |
| author_facet | Barbulov Popov, Daniela ca. 20./21. Jh |
| author_role | aut |
| author_sort | Barbulov Popov, Daniela ca. 20./21. Jh |
| author_variant | p d b pd pdb |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV043878838 |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)966306751 (DE-599)BVBBV043878838 |
| era | Geschichte 1890-1930 gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 1890-1930 |
| format | Book |
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| geographic | Banat (DE-588)4004408-7 gnd |
| geographic_facet | Banat |
| id | DE-604.BV043878838 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2024-10-12T14:04:27Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9789731254739 |
| language | Romanian |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-029288504 |
| oclc_num | 966306751 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | DE-12 |
| owner_facet | DE-12 |
| physical | 304 Seiten Illustrationen, Porträts, Karten, Pläne |
| publishDate | 2016 |
| publishDateSearch | 2016 |
| publishDateSort | 2016 |
| publisher | Editura Universităţii de Vest |
| record_format | marc |
| series2 | Colecţia Biblioteca de cecetare Seria de antropologie/etnologie |
| spelling | Barbulov Popov, Daniela ca. 20./21. Jh. Verfasser (DE-588)1119188326 aut Evoluţia interferenţelor stilistice ale portului popular în zonele Banatului românesc şi sârbesc (1890-1930) Daniela Barbulov Popov Timişoara Editura Universităţii de Vest 2016 304 Seiten Illustrationen, Porträts, Karten, Pläne txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Colecţia Biblioteca de cecetare Seria de antropologie/etnologie Zusammenfassung auf Englisch und Französisch Geschichte 1890-1930 gnd rswk-swf Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd rswk-swf Volkskultur (DE-588)4063849-2 gnd rswk-swf Tracht (DE-588)4060554-1 gnd rswk-swf Landbevölkerung (DE-588)4034229-3 gnd rswk-swf Herstellung (DE-588)4159653-5 gnd rswk-swf Banat (DE-588)4004408-7 gnd rswk-swf Banat (DE-588)4004408-7 g Volkskultur (DE-588)4063849-2 s Landbevölkerung (DE-588)4034229-3 s Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 s Tracht (DE-588)4060554-1 s Herstellung (DE-588)4159653-5 s Geschichte 1890-1930 z DE-604 Digitalisierung BSB Muenchen 19 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=029288504&sequence=000005&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis Digitalisierung BSB Muenchen 19 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=029288504&sequence=000006&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Literaturverzeichnis Digitalisierung BSB Muenchen 19 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=029288504&sequence=000007&line_number=0003&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Abstract Digitalisierung BSB Muenchen 19 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=029288504&sequence=000008&line_number=0004&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Abstract |
| spellingShingle | Barbulov Popov, Daniela ca. 20./21. Jh Evoluţia interferenţelor stilistice ale portului popular în zonele Banatului românesc şi sârbesc (1890-1930) Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd Volkskultur (DE-588)4063849-2 gnd Tracht (DE-588)4060554-1 gnd Landbevölkerung (DE-588)4034229-3 gnd Herstellung (DE-588)4159653-5 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4031011-5 (DE-588)4063849-2 (DE-588)4060554-1 (DE-588)4034229-3 (DE-588)4159653-5 (DE-588)4004408-7 |
| title | Evoluţia interferenţelor stilistice ale portului popular în zonele Banatului românesc şi sârbesc (1890-1930) |
| title_auth | Evoluţia interferenţelor stilistice ale portului popular în zonele Banatului românesc şi sârbesc (1890-1930) |
| title_exact_search | Evoluţia interferenţelor stilistice ale portului popular în zonele Banatului românesc şi sârbesc (1890-1930) |
| title_full | Evoluţia interferenţelor stilistice ale portului popular în zonele Banatului românesc şi sârbesc (1890-1930) Daniela Barbulov Popov |
| title_fullStr | Evoluţia interferenţelor stilistice ale portului popular în zonele Banatului românesc şi sârbesc (1890-1930) Daniela Barbulov Popov |
| title_full_unstemmed | Evoluţia interferenţelor stilistice ale portului popular în zonele Banatului românesc şi sârbesc (1890-1930) Daniela Barbulov Popov |
| title_short | Evoluţia interferenţelor stilistice ale portului popular în zonele Banatului românesc şi sârbesc |
| title_sort | evolutia interferentelor stilistice ale portului popular in zonele banatului romanesc si sarbesc 1890 1930 |
| title_sub | (1890-1930) |
| topic | Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd Volkskultur (DE-588)4063849-2 gnd Tracht (DE-588)4060554-1 gnd Landbevölkerung (DE-588)4034229-3 gnd Herstellung (DE-588)4159653-5 gnd |
| topic_facet | Kleidung Volkskultur Tracht Landbevölkerung Herstellung Banat |
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| work_keys_str_mv | AT barbulovpopovdaniela evolutiainterferentelorstilisticealeportuluipopularinzonelebanatuluiromanescsisarbesc18901930 |