Fashion meets socialism: fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War
Gespeichert in:
| Hauptverfasser: | , |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
Helsinki
Finnish Literature Society
2015
|
| Schriftenreihe: | Studia Fennica Historica
20 |
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Beschreibung: | Literaturverz. S. 289 - 295 |
| Beschreibung: | 303 S. Ill., graph. Darst. |
| ISBN: | 9789522226655 |
Internformat
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Datensatz im Suchindex
| _version_ | 1804175059438272512 |
|---|---|
| adam_text | JUKKAGRONOW amp;SERGEYZHURAVLEV
Fashion Meets Socialism
Fashion industry in the Soviet Union
after the Second World War
Finnish Li tera ture Socie ty • SKS • Hels inki
Contents
Acknowledgements 8
1 Introduction 10
Fashion and Soviet modernity 10
Fashion in a centrally planned economy 13
The founding of the Soviet Houses of Fashion 15
Fashion propaganda and the propaganda for fashion 18
Fashion and the satisfaction of human needs 20
Fashion and Soviet decency 23
Inspirations and restrictions 27
Previous studies of fashion under socialism 30
The plan of the book 33
2 The Formative Years of the Soviet Fashion Industry:
from the Russian Revolution to the end of Stalin s Rule 38
The Revolutionary Background of Soviet Fashion and
Anti-Fashion 38
The 1930s: The Reanimation of Traditional Fashion 50
The Impact of War on the Soviet Fashion Design and Industry 55
3 Economic Development and Standard of Living in the USSR
after the Second World War: A Consumer s Perspective 57
Economic growth and consumption 57
Economic-administrative reforms 67
The main peculiarities of the Soviet consumer society 73
4 The Early Years of the Moscow, Ail-Union Fashion House 78
5 The Institutionalization of Soviet Fashion: The System of Clothing
Design and Fashion Organizations in the USSR (1960-1980) 92
Four Parallel Organizations 92
The General Structure of the Design Organizations at the Ministry of
Light Industry 96 -
The Center point of Soviet fashion: The All-Union House of Fashion
Design, ODMO 100
Standardizing Soviet Clothing Sizes: TsNIIShP and Other Scientific
Research and Construction Organizations at the Ministry of Light
Industry 108
The Highest Authority of Soviet Fashion: All-Union Institute of
Product Assortment and Culture of Dress under the Ministry
of Light Industry, VIALegprom 110
Fashion Design in the Garment Enterprises 113
Fashion Design in the Houses of Everyday Services 116
Fashion Designers in the Factories of Everyday Services 122
Special Units of Fashion Design for Centers of Everyday Services 123
The Law Giver of Fashion for the Service Centers: The Experimental
Center of Clothing Design, TsOTShL 125
Closer to the Customer: Fashion Design in the Organizations
of the Ministry of Local Industry 129
The Differentiation of Soviet Economic Administration 131
6 Fashion at GUM, the State Department Store at Moscow 133
Fashion under the Ministry of Trade 133
The opening of GUM 134 |
The Fashion Atelier 137
The Establishment of the Department of Fashion Design in GUM 141
GUM in Search of Its House Style 146
Working Days at the Department of Fashion Design at GUM 153
Publishing Activities at GUM 157
In the Demonstration Hall at GUM 160
The Models: The Most Difficult Part of the Work 164
The Call from Abroad 170
7 The Tallinn House of Fashion Design: A Gateway to the West 173
The Founding of the Tallinn House 173
New Designs and the Artistic Council 177
The Design Practice of the Tallinn House 180
The Economy and Basic Tasks of the House 182
The Siluett Fashion Journal 185
Contacts with the Other Soviet Fashion Houses 187
Fashion Shows and Exhibitions 188
An Almost European House of Fashion 190
8 Fashion in People s Minds: The Public Discussion of the Culture
of Dress in the Soviet Press 192
Fashion in the Press 192
News and Reports on Seasonal Fashion 199
Vyacheslav Zaitsev - A Celebrity among the Soviet Fashion
Designers 202
News about the Fashion Events: From the Domestic Exhibitions and
Shows to the Great Achievements of Soviet Fashion
in the International Arena 207
Fashion and Customers Complaints 211
The Question of the Small Series and firmennye magaziny 215
The Rules of Decency and the Proper Soviet Dress Code 218
The Everlasting Campaign against Bad Taste 222
The Soviet Ideology of Fashion 230
Street Fashion and Youth Fashion 238
Fashion: For or Against 240
The Unanimity and the Diversity of the Public Discussion
on Soviet Fashion 242
9 Conclusion 244
Notes 253
Appendices 279
Abstract 284
References 286
Index of Names 296
Index of Subjects 299
|
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| series | Studia Fennica Historica |
| series2 | Studia Fennica Historica |
| spelling | Gronow, Jukka 1945- Verfasser (DE-588)1056463880 aut Fashion meets socialism fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War Jukka Gronow & Sergey Zhuravlev Helsinki Finnish Literature Society 2015 303 S. Ill., graph. Darst. txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Studia Fennica Historica 20 Literaturverz. S. 289 - 295 Geschichte 1945-1972 gnd rswk-swf Bekleidungsindustrie (DE-588)4005382-9 gnd rswk-swf Sowjetunion (DE-588)4077548-3 gnd rswk-swf Sowjetunion (DE-588)4077548-3 g Bekleidungsindustrie (DE-588)4005382-9 s Geschichte 1945-1972 z DE-604 Žuravlev, Sergej Vladimirovič 1960- Verfasser (DE-588)124525733 aut Studia Fennica Historica 20 (DE-604)BV016508654 20 HEBIS Datenaustausch application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=028244924&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Gronow, Jukka 1945- Žuravlev, Sergej Vladimirovič 1960- Fashion meets socialism fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War Studia Fennica Historica Bekleidungsindustrie (DE-588)4005382-9 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4005382-9 (DE-588)4077548-3 |
| title | Fashion meets socialism fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War |
| title_auth | Fashion meets socialism fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War |
| title_exact_search | Fashion meets socialism fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War |
| title_full | Fashion meets socialism fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War Jukka Gronow & Sergey Zhuravlev |
| title_fullStr | Fashion meets socialism fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War Jukka Gronow & Sergey Zhuravlev |
| title_full_unstemmed | Fashion meets socialism fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War Jukka Gronow & Sergey Zhuravlev |
| title_short | Fashion meets socialism |
| title_sort | fashion meets socialism fashion industry in the soviet union after the second world war |
| title_sub | fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War |
| topic | Bekleidungsindustrie (DE-588)4005382-9 gnd |
| topic_facet | Bekleidungsindustrie Sowjetunion |
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