Accessory design:
Gespeichert in:
| 1. Verfasser: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
New York
Fairchild Books
2012
|
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Beschreibung: | XVI, 302 S. zahlr. Ill. |
| ISBN: | 9781563679261 |
Internformat
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| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Accessory design |c Aneta Genova |
| 264 | 1 | |a New York |b Fairchild Books |c 2012 | |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
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|---|---|
| adam_text | EXTENDED
CONTENTS
PREFACE
XIII
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS XV
PART ONE
A History and Overview
of Accessory Design
2
CHAPTER ONE
Highlights in the History of Accessories
from Ancient Times to the Present
5
Ancient Times
6
Egypt
6
Ancient Greece
7
Roman Empire
8
The Byzantine Empire and
Medieval Europe
9
The Byzantine Empire
9
Middle Ages
9
Renaissance Europe
13
Women s Headwear
13
Men s Headwear
13
Belts
14
Bags and Pockets
14
Footwear
14
Seventeenth-Century Europe
15
Headwear
15
Neckwear
16
Belts
1 6
Purses and Pockets
16
Footwear
16
Eighteenth Century in European and
European-Influenced Countries
17
Headwear
17
Gloves
18
Handbags
18
Footwear
18
Nineteenth Century in
European and European-
Influenced Countries
19
Headwear
19
Neckwear
20
Shawls
20
Belts
20
Gloves
20
Handbags
20
Footwear
21
Accessories of the
First Two Decades of the
Twentieth Century
21
Headwear
21
Neckwear
22
Gloves
22
Handbags
22
Footwear
22
1920s
Fashion Accessories
23
Headwear
23
Women s Scarves
23
Men s Ties and
Pocket Squares
23
Handbags
24
Footwear
24
1930s
Fashion Accessories
24
Headwear
25
Neckwear
25
Gloves
25
Belts
25
Handbags
25
Footwear
25
1940s Fashion Accessories
26
Headwear
26
Neckwear
27
Handbags
27
Footwear
27
1950s
Fashion Accessories
27
Headwear
28
Neckwear
28
Gloves
28
Belts
28
Handbags
28
Footwear
29
1960s
Fashion Accessories
29
Headwear
29
Handbags
30
Footwear
30
1970s
Fashion Accessories
30
Handbags
30
Footwear
30
1980s Fashion Accessories
31
Headwear
31
Cloves
31
Belts
31
Handbags
31
Footwear
32
1990-2000
Fashion Accessories
32
Handbags
32
Footwear
32
Development of Accessories in
the Twenty-First Century
32
Handbags
33
Footwear
33
CHAPTER TWO
History of Classic
Accessory Companies
35
Hermès
36
The
Hermès
Scarf
38
Custom Articles
40
Hermès
Handbags
40
Louis Vuitton
41
The Founder of Louis Vuitton
41
The Contributions of Georges
and
Gaston
Vuitton
42
Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton
43
Roger
Vivier
44
Vivier s Inventive Designs
44
Vivier s Legacy
46
Salvatore
Ferragamo
46
Ferragamo s Return to Italy
46
Techniques Used in Ferragamo s
Designs
48
Coach
50
The Contribution of
Bonnie Cashin
50
The Expansion in the
1970s
and
1980s 50
Coach the Brand
51
Coach in the Twenty-First
Century
52
Manolo
Blahnìk
55
Blahnik s Early Career
55
Blahnik at
Zapata
55
The Master Shoemaker
56
CHAPTER THREE
Contemporary Accessory
Designer Profiles
59
Miuccia
Prada
бо
The Beginnings of
Prada
60
The Personal Stamp of
Miuccia
Prada
6i
Carlos
Falchi
63
Nike
64
From Blue Ribbon Sports
to Nike
64
Nike Designs
65
Christian Louboutin
67
The Launch of Louboutin s Career
Louboutin s Signature Style
68
Kate Spade and jack Spade
69
The Launch of Kate Spade s
Career
70
Related Brands
70
Recognition and Accolades
70
Jimmy Choo
70
olsenHaus
71
Materials
72
Manufacturing
72
olsenHaus s Focus
72
68
CHAPTER FOUR
Basics of Accessory Design
75
Research and Inspiration
76
Brand Identity
77
Age Range and Gender
77
Functionality and Lifestyle
77
Season
78
Price Range
78
Resources
79
Research Stages and Goals
80
Concepts
80
Identifying a Concept
80
Picking a Color Story
81
Picking Materials and
Hardware
82
Mood Boards
83
Collection Development
85
Design
85
Sketching
86
Merchandising
88
Line Sheets
88
Tech Packs
88
Proto
Development
91
Sample Corrections
92
Manufacturing
93
PART TWO
Designing Handbags and
Small Leather Goods
94
CHAPTER FIVE
Introduction to Handbags
and Small Leather Goods
97
Handbags
98
Some Common Characteristics
of Handbags
98
Styles of Handbags
100
Travel-Related Bags
102
Small Leather Goods
104
Components of Handbags,
Travel-Related Bags, and SLGs
106
Body
107
Handles
107
Flap
107
Pockets and Compartments
107
Gussets
107
Lining
107
Hardware
107
Feet and Wheels
107
Closures
107
Designer s Responsibilities
109
Research and Forecasting
109
Sketching
109
Developing Hardware
109
Approving Prototypes no
Merchandising no
Growing on the Job
110
CHAPTER SIX
Inspiration and Research
for Handbags
113
Research Stages and
Goals
115
Sources of Research and
Inspiration
116
The Internet
117
Magazines
117
Library
117
Museums
117
Art and Art Galleries
117
Architecture
118
Product Design
119
Flea Markets
119
Travel
120
Flora and Fauna
120
Movie Stars
12O
New Technologies
121
Professional Services
121
Shopping the Market and
the Competition
121
Choosing Concepts
121
Picking Colors, Materials,
and Hardware
123
Colors
123
Materials
124
Hardware
124
Building a Mood Board
127
Building a Concept Rig
128
CHAPTER SEVEN
Designing, Sketching, and
Presenting Handbags and
Small Leather Goods
131
Overview of the Design Process
132
Identifying the Concept
132
Determining Materials and
Sketching Ideas
132
Editing the Ideas
132
Designing with Brand
Identity in Mind
133
Adapting Current Trends to
the Brand s Identity
133
Designing for the Right
Customer
134
Designing for the Right Season
134
Questions to Keep You Focused
138
Sketching Handbags and SLGs
139
Concept Drawings
139
Presentation Sketches and
Illustrations
140
Flat Sketches
144
Presenting the Collection
148
Collages
149
Lifestyle Showroom
Presentations
149
CHAPTER EIGHT
Tech Packs and Manufacturing
for Handbags and Small
Leather Goods
151
Spec Sheets and Tech Packs
152
Sketching for Tech Packs
152
List of Materials
155
Colors
155
Notes and Descriptions
156
Close-Ups
156
Mock-Ups
156
Sample References
156
Manufacturing Process
158
Design
158
Procuring All Components
158
Pattern Drafting
159
Samples
159
Creating Steel Dies for
Factory Production
161
Cutting Pattern Pieces
161
Preparing Cut Pieces
162
Buffing Edges and Applying
Edge Paint
162
Adding Trims and Logos
163
Applying Trims and Closures
163
Sewing the Main Body and
Adding Lining
164
Finishing Operations
165
Communicating with
Factories
165
A Visual Review of the
Creation of a Handbag
166
PART THREE
Designing Footwear
168
CHAPTER NINE
Components and Styles
of Footwear
171
Footwear Components
172
Heels
174
Footwear Styles
176
Men s Shoes
176
Men s Boots
178
Women s Shoes
181
Women s Boots
185
CHAPTER TEN
Constructing Shoes
187
Responsibilities of Designers
and Technicians
189
Designer
189
Lastmaker
190
Patternmaker
190
Heel Maker
190
Sole Maker
190
Leather Supplier or Buyer
192
Seamstress
192
Assembler
192
Collaboration among the
Designers and Specialists
192
Types of Shoe Construction
192
Blake/McKay Construction
192
Goodyear Welt Construction
193
Stitched-Down/ldeal Construction
193
California Construction
194
AGO/Cement Construction
194
Opanka
Construction
194
Moccasin Construction
194
Strobel
Construction
195
Molded Construction
195
Vulcanized Construction
196
Turn Shoe Construction
196
Pegged, Riveted, or Screwed
Construction
196
CHAPTER ELEVEN
Inspiration, Research,
and Design for the
Footwear Industry
199
Where to Look for Footwear
Inspiration
202
Vintage Stores
202
Street Fashion
202
Sports
203
Museums
203
Current Art and Design
204
How to Use Inspiration for
Footwear Design
205
Inspiration to Design for Uppers
205
Inspiration to Design for Heels
208
Design and Sketching Possibilities
211
Design Process Overview
214
Design Considerations
215
Design for the Right Customer
21
б
Design for the Right Season
217
Keeping Yourself Inspired
217
CHAPTER TWELVE
Sketching, Illustration, and Presentation
Techniques for Footwear
219
Design and Sketching Styles
222
Sketching with Purpose
223
Sketching the Initial Design Ideas
223
Sketching for Presentations
224
Sketching for a Tech Pack
227
Sketching Techniques
232
Hand Sketches
232
Computer Sketches
232
Rendering Techniques
234
Mixed Media
236
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
Tech Packs and Manufacturing
for Footwear
239
Details of a Tech Pack
240
Flats
245
Close-Ups
248
List of Materials
248
Colors
249
Notes and Descriptions
249
Sample References
249
Manufacturing Process
249
Design
250
Prototyping
250
Last-Making for Production
250
Procuring All Components
250
Cutting Pattern Pieces
for Production
250
Applying Design Details
252
Marking
252
Edge Treatment
253
Upper Closing/Sewing
253
Lasting
254
Finishing
254
Communicating with Factories
255
PART FOUR
Designing Other Accessories
256
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
Various Accessories
259
Hats
260
The Millinery Workroom
260
The Client
261
Inspiration
262
Initial Ideas
262
Materials
262
Soft Hats
269
Straw Hats
269
Rigid Frame Hats
270
Special Occasion Hats
270
Modem Manufacturing of Hats
270
Gloves
271
Materials
272
Glove Components and
Measurements
272
Glove Styles
273
Belts
274
Design Process for Belts
274
Buckle Development
275
Belt Development
276
Neckwear
277
Neckties
278
Scarves
280
Shawls
281
Handkerchiefs and
Pocket Squares
283
GLOSSARY
287
REFERENCES
295
ART CREDITS
297
INDEX
299
|
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