Perfume: joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present
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| Main Author: | |
|---|---|
| Other Authors: | |
| Format: | Book |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
New York, NY
Rizzoli
2006
|
| Edition: | 1. publ. |
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Physical Description: | 384 S. zahlr. Ill. |
| ISBN: | 9780847828326 0847828328 |
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Record in the Search Index
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|---|---|
| adam_text | Richard Stamelman
ume
Joy,
Obsession,
Scandal,
Sin
A
Cultural History of Fragrance from
1750
to the Present
Principal photography by Michael Freeman
A DAVID LARKIN BOOK
TOZZOLI
XjNEWYORK
Contents
Abbreviations
8
Acknowledgments
9
CHAPTER
1:
The Scented Imagination: Perfume in Everyday Life
14
The Radiance of Perfume
17
Perfume in Everyday Life
21
Perfume and the Plague: The Scent of Epidemics
26
Experiencing Perfume: The Mechanics of Smell
31
Perfume and the Representation of History and Culture
32
Fragrance in Art
37
The Betrayal of Perfume: John Donne
48
CHAPTER
2:
The Empire of Perfume:
Scent in Nineteenth
-
Century French Culture
50
The Napoleonization of Perfume
53
The Smells of Streets and Bodies
60
Aristocratic and Bourgeois Airs,
1815-1851 63
The Growth of Advertising
71
Scenting the Everyday: Bottles, Labels, Cards, Calendars, and Fans
76
Perfume Becomes Napoleonized Again
90
CHAPTER
3:
Charles Baudelaire and the Music of Perfume
100
The Scents of Sight
103
The Simulation of Perfume
107
Perfumes of Paradox
112
The Aromas of Infinite Expansion : Musk, Ambergris, Benzoin, and Frankincense
116
The Music of Perfume
124
Fragrant Vessels of Memory
126
The Perfumes of Otherness
129
The Scent of a Woman: Perfume and Passion
130
CHAPTERS
Traces, Vapors, and Arabesques:
Woman as Scent in the
Fin de Siècle
(1880-1914) 132
Nature as Decor
134
Fragrant Walls of Glass: The Art
Nouveau
Bottle
137
Woman as
Objet d Art
140
The Symbolist Poetry of Perfume: Albert
Şamain
and
Stéphane Mallarmé
143
Poetry, Perfume, and Suavity: Count Robert
de Montesquiou
146
Perfume at the
1900
Paris World Exhibition
150
Perfumed
Flutterings :
Scents and Memories in Charles
Cros
and
Emile Zola
152
The Spectacle of Scents: Woman as Advertisement
155
Oedipal Scents
171
Symbolist and Art
Nouveau
Perfumes:
1880-1914 177
CHAPTER
5:
The Scents of Surrealism
188
The Knowing Nose
190
The Surrealist Nose
191
The Eros of Rose
196
Woman as Atomizer
200
The
Lancôm-ization
of Poetry: Paul
Eluard
and
Poème
204
Surrealism s Sex Perfumes
212
CHAPTER
6:
The Fragrant
Garçonne
(1920-1950) 216
The Perfume Pavilion
218
From Art
Deco
to Modernism: Perfumes of the Roaring Twenties and the Hollow Years
224
Jazz Age Ads: From
Arpège
to
Cuir de Russie, Vol de Nuit, and Golli-Wogg
232
The Garçonne s
Perfume: Coco Chanel s No.
5 242
Babette and Bourjois Chic
247
Colette,
the Olfactory Novelist
255
Proust
and the Remembrance of Odors Past
262
Perfume and the Politics of the Far Right:
François Coty
262
The Game of Perfume
267
Perfume and Joy After the War
274
CHAPTER
7:
The Eros
—
and Thanatos
—
of Scents
278
Pheromones of Love
280
The Psycho-Pathology of Scent: Mania,
L Interdit,
and the Erotics of Bondage
281
The Seduction of Slogans
288
Guerlain s Tales of Passion and Love: Mitsouko, Shalimar, and
Samsara
291
Orgasm, Fetidness, and Death
296
Perfume as Opium
301
Х
-Rated Perfume Ads
303
The Postmodern Scents of Loss
304
CHAPTER
8:
Fragrant Narratives:
The Stories Perfumes Tell
(1950-2006) 308
The Detection of Scent
310
Perfume and Barbarity: The Holocaust
312
The Odor of Misanthropy: Perfume and Murder
317
Death by Perfume
324
Narrative Visions of Scent: The Advertising, Televising, and Filming of Perfume
326
Endnotes 343
Selected Bibliography
360
Photo Credits
377
Index
379
|
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| author | Stamelman, Richard |
| author2 | Freeman, Michael 1945- |
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| dewey-full | 391.63 |
| dewey-hundreds | 300 - Social sciences |
| dewey-ones | 391 - Costume and personal appearance |
| dewey-raw | 391.63 |
| dewey-search | 391.63 |
| dewey-sort | 3391.63 |
| dewey-tens | 390 - Customs, etiquette, folklore |
| discipline | Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
| edition | 1. publ. |
| era | Geschichte 1750-2006 gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 1750-2006 |
| format | Book |
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| isbn | 9780847828326 0847828328 |
| language | English |
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| physical | 384 S. zahlr. Ill. |
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| publisher | Rizzoli |
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| spelling | Stamelman, Richard Verfasser aut Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present Richard Stamelman. Principal photogr. by Michael Freeman 1. publ. New York, NY Rizzoli 2006 384 S. zahlr. Ill. txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Geschichte 1750-2006 gnd rswk-swf Flakon (DE-588)4154539-4 gnd rswk-swf Flakon (DE-588)4154539-4 s Geschichte 1750-2006 z DE-604 Freeman, Michael 1945- (DE-588)110050215 pht KUBIKAT Anreicherung application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=022869358&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Stamelman, Richard Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present Flakon (DE-588)4154539-4 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4154539-4 |
| title | Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present |
| title_auth | Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present |
| title_exact_search | Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present |
| title_full | Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present Richard Stamelman. Principal photogr. by Michael Freeman |
| title_fullStr | Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present Richard Stamelman. Principal photogr. by Michael Freeman |
| title_full_unstemmed | Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present Richard Stamelman. Principal photogr. by Michael Freeman |
| title_short | Perfume |
| title_sort | perfume joy obsession scandal sin a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present |
| title_sub | joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present |
| topic | Flakon (DE-588)4154539-4 gnd |
| topic_facet | Flakon |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=022869358&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
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