Perfume: joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present
Gespeichert in:
| 1. Verfasser: | |
|---|---|
| Weitere Verfasser: | |
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
New York, NY
Rizzoli
2006
|
| Ausgabe: | 1. publ. |
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Beschreibung: | 384 S. zahlr. Ill. |
| ISBN: | 9780847828326 0847828328 |
Internformat
MARC
| LEADER | 00000nam a2200000 c 4500 | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| 001 | BV037655831 | ||
| 003 | DE-604 | ||
| 005 | 20070423094450 | ||
| 007 | t | ||
| 008 | 070313s2006 a||| |||| 00||| eng d | ||
| 020 | |a 9780847828326 |9 978-0-8478-2832-6 | ||
| 020 | |a 0847828328 |9 0-8478-2832-8 | ||
| 035 | |a (OCoLC)70284372 | ||
| 035 | |a (DE-599)BVBBV037655831 | ||
| 040 | |a DE-604 |b ger |e rakwb | ||
| 041 | 0 | |a eng | |
| 049 | |a DE-255 |a DE-1050 | ||
| 082 | 0 | |a 391.63 | |
| 100 | 1 | |a Stamelman, Richard |e Verfasser |4 aut | |
| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Perfume |b joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present |c Richard Stamelman. Principal photogr. by Michael Freeman |
| 250 | |a 1. publ. | ||
| 264 | 1 | |a New York, NY |b Rizzoli |c 2006 | |
| 300 | |a 384 S. |b zahlr. Ill. | ||
| 336 | |b txt |2 rdacontent | ||
| 337 | |b n |2 rdamedia | ||
| 338 | |b nc |2 rdacarrier | ||
| 648 | 7 | |a Geschichte 1750-2006 |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf | |
| 650 | 0 | 7 | |a Flakon |0 (DE-588)4154539-4 |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf |
| 689 | 0 | 0 | |a Flakon |0 (DE-588)4154539-4 |D s |
| 689 | 0 | 1 | |a Geschichte 1750-2006 |A z |
| 689 | 0 | |5 DE-604 | |
| 700 | 1 | |a Freeman, Michael |d 1945- |0 (DE-588)110050215 |4 pht | |
| 856 | 4 | 2 | |m KUBIKAT Anreicherung |q application/pdf |u http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=022869358&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |3 Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| 999 | |a oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-022869358 | ||
Datensatz im Suchindex
| _version_ | 1804146097662197760 |
|---|---|
| adam_text | Richard Stamelman
ume
Joy,
Obsession,
Scandal,
Sin
A
Cultural History of Fragrance from
1750
to the Present
Principal photography by Michael Freeman
A DAVID LARKIN BOOK
TOZZOLI
XjNEWYORK
Contents
Abbreviations
8
Acknowledgments
9
CHAPTER
1:
The Scented Imagination: Perfume in Everyday Life
14
The Radiance of Perfume
17
Perfume in Everyday Life
21
Perfume and the Plague: The Scent of Epidemics
26
Experiencing Perfume: The Mechanics of Smell
31
Perfume and the Representation of History and Culture
32
Fragrance in Art
37
The Betrayal of Perfume: John Donne
48
CHAPTER
2:
The Empire of Perfume:
Scent in Nineteenth
-
Century French Culture
50
The Napoleonization of Perfume
53
The Smells of Streets and Bodies
60
Aristocratic and Bourgeois Airs,
1815-1851 63
The Growth of Advertising
71
Scenting the Everyday: Bottles, Labels, Cards, Calendars, and Fans
76
Perfume Becomes Napoleonized Again
90
CHAPTER
3:
Charles Baudelaire and the Music of Perfume
100
The Scents of Sight
103
The Simulation of Perfume
107
Perfumes of Paradox
112
The Aromas of Infinite Expansion : Musk, Ambergris, Benzoin, and Frankincense
116
The Music of Perfume
124
Fragrant Vessels of Memory
126
The Perfumes of Otherness
129
The Scent of a Woman: Perfume and Passion
130
CHAPTERS
Traces, Vapors, and Arabesques:
Woman as Scent in the
Fin de Siècle
(1880-1914) 132
Nature as Decor
134
Fragrant Walls of Glass: The Art
Nouveau
Bottle
137
Woman as
Objet d Art
140
The Symbolist Poetry of Perfume: Albert
Şamain
and
Stéphane Mallarmé
143
Poetry, Perfume, and Suavity: Count Robert
de Montesquiou
146
Perfume at the
1900
Paris World Exhibition
150
Perfumed
Flutterings :
Scents and Memories in Charles
Cros
and
Emile Zola
152
The Spectacle of Scents: Woman as Advertisement
155
Oedipal Scents
171
Symbolist and Art
Nouveau
Perfumes:
1880-1914 177
CHAPTER
5:
The Scents of Surrealism
188
The Knowing Nose
190
The Surrealist Nose
191
The Eros of Rose
196
Woman as Atomizer
200
The
Lancôm-ization
of Poetry: Paul
Eluard
and
Poème
204
Surrealism s Sex Perfumes
212
CHAPTER
6:
The Fragrant
Garçonne
(1920-1950) 216
The Perfume Pavilion
218
From Art
Deco
to Modernism: Perfumes of the Roaring Twenties and the Hollow Years
224
Jazz Age Ads: From
Arpège
to
Cuir de Russie, Vol de Nuit, and Golli-Wogg
232
The Garçonne s
Perfume: Coco Chanel s No.
5 242
Babette and Bourjois Chic
247
Colette,
the Olfactory Novelist
255
Proust
and the Remembrance of Odors Past
262
Perfume and the Politics of the Far Right:
François Coty
262
The Game of Perfume
267
Perfume and Joy After the War
274
CHAPTER
7:
The Eros
—
and Thanatos
—
of Scents
278
Pheromones of Love
280
The Psycho-Pathology of Scent: Mania,
L Interdit,
and the Erotics of Bondage
281
The Seduction of Slogans
288
Guerlain s Tales of Passion and Love: Mitsouko, Shalimar, and
Samsara
291
Orgasm, Fetidness, and Death
296
Perfume as Opium
301
Х
-Rated Perfume Ads
303
The Postmodern Scents of Loss
304
CHAPTER
8:
Fragrant Narratives:
The Stories Perfumes Tell
(1950-2006) 308
The Detection of Scent
310
Perfume and Barbarity: The Holocaust
312
The Odor of Misanthropy: Perfume and Murder
317
Death by Perfume
324
Narrative Visions of Scent: The Advertising, Televising, and Filming of Perfume
326
Endnotes 343
Selected Bibliography
360
Photo Credits
377
Index
379
|
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| author | Stamelman, Richard |
| author2 | Freeman, Michael 1945- |
| author2_role | pht |
| author2_variant | m f mf |
| author_GND | (DE-588)110050215 |
| author_facet | Stamelman, Richard Freeman, Michael 1945- |
| author_role | aut |
| author_sort | Stamelman, Richard |
| author_variant | r s rs |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV037655831 |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)70284372 (DE-599)BVBBV037655831 |
| dewey-full | 391.63 |
| dewey-hundreds | 300 - Social sciences |
| dewey-ones | 391 - Costume and personal appearance |
| dewey-raw | 391.63 |
| dewey-search | 391.63 |
| dewey-sort | 3391.63 |
| dewey-tens | 390 - Customs, etiquette, folklore |
| discipline | Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
| edition | 1. publ. |
| era | Geschichte 1750-2006 gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 1750-2006 |
| format | Book |
| fullrecord | <?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><collection xmlns="http://www.loc.gov/MARC21/slim"><record><leader>01436nam a2200373 c 4500</leader><controlfield tag="001">BV037655831</controlfield><controlfield tag="003">DE-604</controlfield><controlfield tag="005">20070423094450 </controlfield><controlfield tag="007">t</controlfield><controlfield tag="008">070313s2006 a||| |||| 00||| eng d</controlfield><datafield tag="020" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">9780847828326</subfield><subfield code="9">978-0-8478-2832-6</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="020" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">0847828328</subfield><subfield code="9">0-8478-2832-8</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="035" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">(OCoLC)70284372</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="035" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">(DE-599)BVBBV037655831</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="040" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">DE-604</subfield><subfield code="b">ger</subfield><subfield code="e">rakwb</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="041" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">eng</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="049" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">DE-255</subfield><subfield code="a">DE-1050</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="082" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">391.63</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="100" ind1="1" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Stamelman, Richard</subfield><subfield code="e">Verfasser</subfield><subfield code="4">aut</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="245" ind1="1" ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Perfume</subfield><subfield code="b">joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present</subfield><subfield code="c">Richard Stamelman. Principal photogr. by Michael Freeman</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="250" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">1. publ.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="264" ind1=" " ind2="1"><subfield code="a">New York, NY</subfield><subfield code="b">Rizzoli</subfield><subfield code="c">2006</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="300" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">384 S.</subfield><subfield code="b">zahlr. Ill.</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="336" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="b">txt</subfield><subfield code="2">rdacontent</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="337" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="b">n</subfield><subfield code="2">rdamedia</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="338" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="b">nc</subfield><subfield code="2">rdacarrier</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="648" ind1=" " ind2="7"><subfield code="a">Geschichte 1750-2006</subfield><subfield code="2">gnd</subfield><subfield code="9">rswk-swf</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="650" ind1="0" ind2="7"><subfield code="a">Flakon</subfield><subfield code="0">(DE-588)4154539-4</subfield><subfield code="2">gnd</subfield><subfield code="9">rswk-swf</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="689" ind1="0" ind2="0"><subfield code="a">Flakon</subfield><subfield code="0">(DE-588)4154539-4</subfield><subfield code="D">s</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="689" ind1="0" ind2="1"><subfield code="a">Geschichte 1750-2006</subfield><subfield code="A">z</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="689" ind1="0" ind2=" "><subfield code="5">DE-604</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="700" ind1="1" ind2=" "><subfield code="a">Freeman, Michael</subfield><subfield code="d">1945-</subfield><subfield code="0">(DE-588)110050215</subfield><subfield code="4">pht</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="856" ind1="4" ind2="2"><subfield code="m">KUBIKAT Anreicherung</subfield><subfield code="q">application/pdf</subfield><subfield code="u">http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=022869358&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA</subfield><subfield code="3">Inhaltsverzeichnis</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="999" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-022869358</subfield></datafield></record></collection> |
| id | DE-604.BV037655831 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2024-07-09T23:29:56Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9780847828326 0847828328 |
| language | English |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-022869358 |
| oclc_num | 70284372 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | DE-255 DE-1050 |
| owner_facet | DE-255 DE-1050 |
| physical | 384 S. zahlr. Ill. |
| publishDate | 2006 |
| publishDateSearch | 2006 |
| publishDateSort | 2006 |
| publisher | Rizzoli |
| record_format | marc |
| spelling | Stamelman, Richard Verfasser aut Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present Richard Stamelman. Principal photogr. by Michael Freeman 1. publ. New York, NY Rizzoli 2006 384 S. zahlr. Ill. txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Geschichte 1750-2006 gnd rswk-swf Flakon (DE-588)4154539-4 gnd rswk-swf Flakon (DE-588)4154539-4 s Geschichte 1750-2006 z DE-604 Freeman, Michael 1945- (DE-588)110050215 pht KUBIKAT Anreicherung application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=022869358&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Stamelman, Richard Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present Flakon (DE-588)4154539-4 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4154539-4 |
| title | Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present |
| title_auth | Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present |
| title_exact_search | Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present |
| title_full | Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present Richard Stamelman. Principal photogr. by Michael Freeman |
| title_fullStr | Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present Richard Stamelman. Principal photogr. by Michael Freeman |
| title_full_unstemmed | Perfume joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present Richard Stamelman. Principal photogr. by Michael Freeman |
| title_short | Perfume |
| title_sort | perfume joy obsession scandal sin a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present |
| title_sub | joy, obsession, scandal, sin ; a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present |
| topic | Flakon (DE-588)4154539-4 gnd |
| topic_facet | Flakon |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=022869358&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT stamelmanrichard perfumejoyobsessionscandalsinaculturalhistoryoffragrancefrom1750tothepresent AT freemanmichael perfumejoyobsessionscandalsinaculturalhistoryoffragrancefrom1750tothepresent |