FashionEast: the spectre that haunted socialism
Gespeichert in:
| 1. Verfasser: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
Cambridge, Mass. [u.a.]
MIT Press
2010
|
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis Klappentext |
| Beschreibung: | XII, 326 S. zahlr. Ill. |
| ISBN: | 9780262026505 |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
| _version_ | 1804143452738289664 |
|---|---|
| adam_text | PREFACE
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER
1
ART VERSUS TECHNOLOGY
EARLY SOVIET DILEMMAS ON DRESS
CHAPTER
2
BETWEEN SCIENCE AND MYTH
THE BIRTH OF SOCIALIST FASHION
CHAPTER
3
EAST EUROPE
FROM UTOPIA TO MYTH
CHAPTER
4
THE COLD WAR AND THE FASHION WAR
CHAPTER
5
FROM RED TO BEIGE
A SET OF RULES
CHAPTER
6
THE DECLINE OF SOCIALIST FASHION
CHAPTER
7
FASHION RISING
NOTES
REFERENCES
INDEX
181
213
243
273
303
319
FASHIOIÄT
THE SPECTRE THAT HAUNTED SOCIALISM
DJURDJA BARTLETT
The idea of fashion under socialism conjures up images
of babushka headscarves and black market blue jeans.
And yet, as Djurdja Bartlett shows in this groundbreaking
book, the socialist East had an intimate relationship with
fashion. Official antagonism
—
which cast fashion as frivolous
and antirevolutionary
—
eventually gave way to grudging
acceptance and creeping consumerism.
Bartlett outlines three phases in socialist fashion, and
illustrates them with abundant images from magazines of
the period: postrevolutionary Utopian dress, official state-
sanctioned socialist fashion, and samizdat-style everyday
fashion. Utopian dress, ranging from the geometric
abstraction of the constructivists under Bolshevism in the
Soviet Union to the no-frills desexualized uniform of a factory
worker in Czechoslovakia, reflected the revolutionary urge for
a clean break with the past. The highly centralized socialist
fashion system, part of Stalinist industrialization, offered
official prototypes of high fashion that were never available
in stores
—
mythical images of smart and luxurious dresses
that symbolized the economic progress that socialist
regimes dreamed of. Everyday fashion, starting in the
1950s,
was an unofficial, do-it-yourself enterprise: Western fashions
obtained through
semiclandestine
channels or sewn at
home. The state tolerated the demand for Western fashion,
promising the burgeoning middle class consumer goods in
exchange for political loyalty.
Bartlett traces the progress of socialist fashion in the
Soviet Union, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, East Germany,
Poland, and Yugoslavia, drawing on state-sponsored socialist
women s magazines, etiquette books, socialist manuals
on dress, private archives, and her own interviews with
designers, fashion editors, and other key figures. Fashion,
she suggests, with all its ephemerality and dynamism,
was in perpetual conflict with the socialist regimes fear
of change and need for control. It was, to echo the famous
first sentence from the Communist Manifesto, the spectre
that haunted socialism until the end.
|
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| author | Bartlett, Djurdja 1949- |
| author_GND | (DE-588)143353365 |
| author_facet | Bartlett, Djurdja 1949- |
| author_role | aut |
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| bvnumber | BV036778530 |
| callnumber-first | T - Technology |
| callnumber-label | TT504 |
| callnumber-raw | TT504.6.S65 |
| callnumber-search | TT504.6.S65 |
| callnumber-sort | TT 3504.6 S65 |
| callnumber-subject | TT - Arts and Crafts |
| classification_rvk | LH 79047 LO 80820 NK 5066 |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)705972697 (DE-599)BVBBV036778530 |
| dewey-full | 746.9/2 |
| dewey-hundreds | 700 - The arts |
| dewey-ones | 746 - Textile arts |
| dewey-raw | 746.9/2 |
| dewey-search | 746.9/2 |
| dewey-sort | 3746.9 12 |
| dewey-tens | 740 - Graphic arts and decorative arts |
| discipline | Kunstgeschichte Geschichte |
| era | Geschichte 1922-1990 gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 1922-1990 |
| format | Book |
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| id | DE-604.BV036778530 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2024-07-09T22:47:53Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9780262026505 |
| language | English |
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| physical | XII, 326 S. zahlr. Ill. |
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| publisher | MIT Press |
| record_format | marc |
| spelling | Bartlett, Djurdja 1949- Verfasser (DE-588)143353365 aut FashionEast the spectre that haunted socialism Djurdja Bartlett Fashion East fashion east Cambridge, Mass. [u.a.] MIT Press 2010 XII, 326 S. zahlr. Ill. txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Geschichte 1922-1990 gnd rswk-swf Alltag, Brauchtum Politik Fashion Political aspects Soviet Union Fashion Political aspects Europe, Eastern Fashion design Political aspects Soviet Union Fashion design Political aspects Europe, Eastern Socialism and culture Soviet Union Socialism and culture Europe, Eastern Sozialismus (DE-588)4055785-6 gnd rswk-swf Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd rswk-swf Damenmode (DE-588)4419083-9 gnd rswk-swf Sowjetunion Soviet Union Social life and customs Europe, Eastern Social life and customs Deutschland DDR (DE-588)4011890-3 gnd rswk-swf Osteuropa (DE-588)4075739-0 gnd rswk-swf Jugoslawien (DE-588)4028966-7 gnd rswk-swf Ungarn (DE-588)4078541-5 gnd rswk-swf Sowjetunion (DE-588)4077548-3 gnd rswk-swf Tschechoslowakei (DE-588)4078435-6 gnd rswk-swf Osteuropa (DE-588)4075739-0 g Sowjetunion (DE-588)4077548-3 g Damenmode (DE-588)4419083-9 s Geschichte 1922-1990 z DE-604 Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 s Tschechoslowakei (DE-588)4078435-6 g Deutschland DDR (DE-588)4011890-3 g Ungarn (DE-588)4078541-5 g Jugoslawien (DE-588)4028966-7 g Sozialismus (DE-588)4055785-6 s Digitalisierung BSB Muenchen application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=020695233&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis Digitalisierung UB Passau application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=020695233&sequence=000004&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Klappentext |
| spellingShingle | Bartlett, Djurdja 1949- FashionEast the spectre that haunted socialism Alltag, Brauchtum Politik Fashion Political aspects Soviet Union Fashion Political aspects Europe, Eastern Fashion design Political aspects Soviet Union Fashion design Political aspects Europe, Eastern Socialism and culture Soviet Union Socialism and culture Europe, Eastern Sozialismus (DE-588)4055785-6 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Damenmode (DE-588)4419083-9 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4055785-6 (DE-588)4039792-0 (DE-588)4419083-9 (DE-588)4011890-3 (DE-588)4075739-0 (DE-588)4028966-7 (DE-588)4078541-5 (DE-588)4077548-3 (DE-588)4078435-6 |
| title | FashionEast the spectre that haunted socialism |
| title_alt | Fashion East fashion east |
| title_auth | FashionEast the spectre that haunted socialism |
| title_exact_search | FashionEast the spectre that haunted socialism |
| title_full | FashionEast the spectre that haunted socialism Djurdja Bartlett |
| title_fullStr | FashionEast the spectre that haunted socialism Djurdja Bartlett |
| title_full_unstemmed | FashionEast the spectre that haunted socialism Djurdja Bartlett |
| title_short | FashionEast |
| title_sort | fashioneast the spectre that haunted socialism |
| title_sub | the spectre that haunted socialism |
| topic | Alltag, Brauchtum Politik Fashion Political aspects Soviet Union Fashion Political aspects Europe, Eastern Fashion design Political aspects Soviet Union Fashion design Political aspects Europe, Eastern Socialism and culture Soviet Union Socialism and culture Europe, Eastern Sozialismus (DE-588)4055785-6 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Damenmode (DE-588)4419083-9 gnd |
| topic_facet | Alltag, Brauchtum Politik Fashion Political aspects Soviet Union Fashion Political aspects Europe, Eastern Fashion design Political aspects Soviet Union Fashion design Political aspects Europe, Eastern Socialism and culture Soviet Union Socialism and culture Europe, Eastern Sozialismus Mode Damenmode Sowjetunion Soviet Union Social life and customs Europe, Eastern Social life and customs Deutschland DDR Osteuropa Jugoslawien Ungarn Tschechoslowakei |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=020695233&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=020695233&sequence=000004&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
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