The American look: fashion and the image of women in 1930's and 1940's New York
Gespeichert in:
| 1. Verfasser: | |
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| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
London [u.a.]
Tauris
2009
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| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Beschreibung: | XVII, 237 S. Ill. |
| ISBN: | 9781860647635 |
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Titel: The American look
Autor: Arnold, Rebecca
Jahr: 2009
CONTENTS
List of Illustrations ix
Acknowledgements xv
Introduction 1
CHAPTER ONE: New York and the Evolution of Sportswear 1929^39 13
New York City 13
Sportswear 23
The Modern Sportswear Aesthetic I 30
CHAPTER TWO; American Body Culture 39
Body Image/Body Culture 39
Health and Hygiene 46
Exercise and Dance 52
Sports Body 61
CHAPTER THREE: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry During the Depression 75
Effects of the Depression 75
Career Women 83
The Fashion Group 93
CHAPTER FOUR; Sportswear's Promotion During the 1930s 105
New York Department Stores 105
The Fashion Media 116
The Monastic Dress and Sportswear Promotion in the late 1930s 123
CHAPTER FIVE: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry During the Second World War 135
Effects of the Second World War 135
Sportswear Design and Representation 147
The Modern Sportswear Aesthetic II 157
CHAPTER SIX; The American Look and the Rise of the Designer 169
The American Look 169
New York Sportswear Designers and Consumerism 178
The Woman of Fashion 1947 188
Conclusion 199
Bibliography 211
Index 231
ILLUSTRATIONS
INTRODUCTION
PAGE 2
1. Worsinger, Lord Taylor interior display for Clare Potter 'American Designers'
campaign,1933
Museum of the City of New York, Print Archives.
2. David Crystal advertisement, Vogue, 10 May 1930
3. Claire McCardell, cotton rayon butcher linen bra top and skirt from resort wear
wardrobe, 1944
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Claire McCardell, 1949. (CI.45.37.30ab). New York, Costume
Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art
4. Clare Potter, linen dress, 1937-38
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Janet Chatfield-Taylor,1962. (Cl.62.4.4ab). New York, Costume Institute,
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
CHAPTER ONE
PAGE 14
1.1. Martin Munkacsi, U.S. Rubber, John Wanamaker, Harper's Bazaar, November 1934
1.2. United States Rubber Company advertisement, Vogue, May 1 1933
1.3. Franklin Simon advertisement, Vogue, 15 December 1936
1.4. Mrs Franklin advertisement, Vogue, 15 March 1932
PAGE 31
1.5. Martin Munkasci, B. Altman, Harper's Bazaar, December 1933
1.6. Jay Thorpe advertisement, Vogue, 1 January 1935
1.7. Dorothea Lange, Mother in California, 1937
LC-USF34-016249-C. Washington D.C., Prints and Photographs Division. Library of Congress
1.8. Sid Grossman, Coney Island, 1947-48
CHAPTER TWO
PAGE 41
2.1. Barbara Morgan, Ekstasis-torso, 1935
69.2177. Division of Information Technology and Communications: Photography, National Museum of American
History, Smithsonian Institution
PAGE 55
2.2. Jantzen swimsuit, 1928
316473.4. Washington D.C., Division of Home and Community Life: Clothing and Accessories. National Museum
of American History, Smithsonian Institution
2.3. Unidentified artist, Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers, 1936
T/NPG.99.54.05. Washington D.C. Division of Photography, National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution
2.4. Arnold Genthe, Isadora Duncan, c.1916
NPG.76.73. Washington D.C., Division of Photography, National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution
PAGE 59
2.5. Barbara Morgan, Martha Graham, 1937
NPG.88.13. Washington D.C., Department of Photography, National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution
PAGE 62
2.6. John Singer Sargent, Ena and Betty Wertheimer, 1901
London, Tate Britain
2.7 Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Harper's Bazaar, February 1938
New York, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
2.8. Martin Munkasci, B. Altman, Best Co. and Bonwit Teller, Harper's Bazaar, August 1938
PAGE 68
2.9. Anton Bruehl, Amelia Earhart, Vogue, 1 June 1934
2.10. Helene Madison, start of one hundred metres freestyle race, Los Angeles Olympics, 1932
l.o.c. Olympic Museums Collections
2.11. Toni Frissell, Bonwit Teller, Vogue, 15 August 1939
LC-F9-04-3906-052-23. Washington D.C., Prints and Photographs Division, Library of Congress
CHAPTER THREE
PAGE 74
3.1. Barbara Lee advertisement, Vogue, 21 December 1929
3.2. Bloomingdale's advertisement, Harper's Bazaar, June 1935
PAGE 84
3.3. Martin Munkacsi, Saks Fifth Avenue, Harper's Bazaar, June 1938
3.4. Bergdorf Goodman advertisement, Vogue, 15 September 1933
3.5. Vera Maxwell suit, 1937
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Miss Vera Maxwell, 1945 (Cl.45.56.2ab). New York, Costume Institute,
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
CHAPTER FOUR
PAGE 108
4.1. B. Altman advertisement, Vogue, 15 May 1935
35.165.20C
4.2. Worsinger, Lord Taylor Clare Potter, windows for 'American Designers'campaign 1933
Museum of the City of New York, Print Archives
4.3. Edward Steichen, Katharine Hepburn in Clare Potter, Vogue, 15 May 1933
PAGE 114
4.4. Clark-Rogers, James McCutcheon Co. window display, 1935
35.165.20C Museum of the City of New York, Print Archives
4.5. Clark-Rogers, Saks Thirty-Forth Street Gstaad window display, 1935
35.165.23 Museum of the City of New York, Print Archives
4.6. B. Altman, College window display, B.AItman Window Displays
X191, Box 7. New York, Special Collections, The Gladys Marcus Library, Fashion Institute of Technology
4.7. B. Altman, S. S. Manhattan window display, 1930s Window Displays
X191, Box 7. New York, Special Collections, The Gladys Marcus Library, Fashion Institute of Technology
PAGE 121
4.8. David Crystal for Carolyn advertisement, Vogue, 15 May 1935
4.9. Toni Frissell, Clarepotter advertisement, Vogue, 15 December 1938
LC-F9-01-3810-068-09. Washington D.C., Prints and Photographs Division, Library of Congress
PAGE 125
4.10. Carolyn advertisement, Vogue, 15 August 1937
4.11. Jean Moral, Alix, Harper's Bazaar, September 1938
4.12. Bruyere, Town Wear, The New York Times, 16 October 1938
PAGE 131
4.13.'Nada Frock', Best Co. advertisement, The Washington Post, 9 October 1938
4.14. Claire McCardell, novelty-weave wool 'Monastic' dress, (1938)
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Claire McCardell, 1949. (Cl.45.37.15ab). New York, Costume Institute.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
4.15. Toni Frissell, Saks Fifth Avenue, Vogue, 1 September 1938
LC-F9-01-3807-019-09. Washington D.C. Prints and Photographs Division. Library of Congress
CHAPTER FIVE
PAGE 138
5.1. L'Aiglon advertisement, Vogue, 15 November 1940
5.2. John Rawlings, Saks Fifth Avenue, Jaeger and Abercrombie and Fitch, Bonwit Teller,
Vogue, 1 December 1940
PAGE 145
5.3. Clare Potter advertisement, Vogue, 15 May 1942
5.4. ColoRelated Fashions advertisement, Vogue, 15 February 1942
5.5. Wesley Simpson advertisement, Vogue, 1 April 1945
PAGE 148
5.6. Claire McCardell, cotton 'Pop-over' dress, 1942
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Claire McCardell, 1945. (Cl.45.71.2ab). New York, Costume Institute,
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
5.7. Vera Maxwell, cotton twill jumpsuit, 1942
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Miss Vera Maxwell, 1945. (Cl.47.60.1). New York, Costume Institute,
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
5.8. Davidow design, early 1940s
Box B-32, File 6, Davidow Archive. New York, Special Collections, The Gladys Marcus Library, Fashion Institute
of Technology
PAGE154
5.9. Mildred Orrick, Leotard Fashions, c. 1942
Mildred Orrick Papers, The Anna-Maria and Stephen Kellen Archives Center, Parsons The New School of Design
5.10. Claire McCardell, Ensemble, wool, leather (Leotard, overdress, belt, ballet slippers) 1944
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Claire McCardell, 1945. (Cl.45.71.la-c). New York,
Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art
5.11. Claire McCardell, wool and rayon jersey diaper bathing suit, 1944
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Mrs. A Moore Montgomery, 1970. (1970.153.3). New York,Costume
Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art
PAGE 158
5.12.Toni Frissell, two soldiers from the WAACs, c.1943
5.13. Toni Frissell, Peck Peck, Vogue, 1 July 1940
5.14. Toni Frissell, Contact Sheet
LC-F9-02-4805-046. Washington D.C., Prints and Photographs Division, Library of Congress
PAGE 161
5.15. Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Model in Rubber Bathing Suit, California, 1940
1986.56. Washington D.C., National Museum of Women in the Arts
5.16. Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Jay Thorpe, Harper's Bazaar, January 1942
New York, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
5.17. Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Russeks, Harper's Bazaar, August 1944
New York, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
5.18. Martin Munkacsi, Henri Bendel, Harper's Bazaar, October 1944
CHAPTER SIX
PAGE 174
6.1. Christian Dior, silk "Cherie" dinner dress s/s 1947
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Christian Dior, 1948. (Cl.48.13ab). New York, Costume Institute,
Metropolitan Museum of Art
6.2. B. H. Wragge advertisement, Vogue, 15 September 1946
PAGE 182
6.3. Tina Leser, white crepe 'Doves' blouse and shorts, 1945
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Tina Leser, 1945. (Cl.45.74ab). New York, Costume Institute,
Metropolitan Museum of Art
6.4. Tina Leser design, c.1945
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library, Tina Leser Collection. New
York, Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art
6.5. Claire McCardell beach wardrobe, 1945
85.174.2. New York, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
6.6. Macy's exercise suit, c.1920s
1984.0825.01. Washington D.C., Division of Music, Sports and Entertainment: Sports and Leisure, National
Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution
PAGE 185
6.7. Loomtog's dress and jacket, 1947-55
1990.388.15. Washington D.C., Division of Home and Community Life: Clothing and Accessories. National
Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution
6.8. Cotton Council advertisement, Mademoiselle, January 1947
6.9. Kaiser-Frazer advertisement, Vogue, 15 June 1947
PAGE 194
6.10. Joset Walker "Noon-Day Sun"
Photograph by Ben Studios, reproduced in A Woman of Fashion. 1947. spring/summer: the Bloommgdale
Collection, New York: Bloomingdale Bros, 1947, 47. New York. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Irene
Lewisohn Costume Reference Library
6.11. Carolyn Schnurer, "Sun-Swept"
Photograph by Ben Studios, reproduced in A Woman of Fashion. 1947. spring/summer: the Bloomingdale
Collection, New York: Bloomingdale Bros. 1947, 55 The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Irene Lewisohn
Costume Reference Library
6.12. Claire McCardell, "Gay Weekend"
Photograph by Ben Studios, reproduced in A Woman of Fashion. 1947. spring/summer: the Bloomingdale
Collection, New York: Bloomingdale Bros. 1947. 49. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The Irene Lewisohn
Costume Reference Library
CONCLUSION
PAGE 205
1. Slote and Klein advertisement, Harpers Bazaar, March 1930
2. Martin Munkacsi, Tweed Shop, Best Co., Harper's Bazaar, December 1933
3. Martin Munkacsi, Saks Fifth Avenue, Harper's Bazaar, May 1941
4. Wesley Simpson advertisement, Vogue, 15 August 1947 |
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