Odzież grobowa w Rzeczypospolitej w XVII i XVIII wieku:
Gespeichert in:
| 1. Verfasser: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | Polish |
| Veröffentlicht: |
Toruń
Wydawn. Naukowe Uniw. Mikołaja Kopernika
2008
|
| Ausgabe: | Wyd. 1., dodruk |
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis Abstract Klappentext |
| Beschreibung: | Zsfassung in engl. Sprache u.d.T.: Grave clothes in Polish Republic from 17 - 18th c. |
| Beschreibung: | 343, [1] S. zahlr. Ill. |
| ISBN: | 9788323121862 8323121869 |
Internformat
MARC
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| 100 | 1 | |a Drążkowska, Anna |d ca. 20./21. Jh. |e Verfasser |0 (DE-588)134178270 |4 aut | |
| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Odzież grobowa w Rzeczypospolitej w XVII i XVIII wieku |c Anna Drążkowska |
| 246 | 1 | 3 | |a Grave clothes in Polish Republic from 17 - 18th c. |
| 250 | |a Wyd. 1., dodruk | ||
| 264 | 1 | |a Toruń |b Wydawn. Naukowe Uniw. Mikołaja Kopernika |c 2008 | |
| 300 | |a 343, [1] S. |b zahlr. Ill. | ||
| 336 | |b txt |2 rdacontent | ||
| 337 | |b n |2 rdamedia | ||
| 338 | |b nc |2 rdacarrier | ||
| 500 | |a Zsfassung in engl. Sprache u.d.T.: Grave clothes in Polish Republic from 17 - 18th c. | ||
| 648 | 7 | |a Geschichte 1600-1800 |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf | |
| 650 | 7 | |a Obrzędy i ceremonie pogrzebowe / Polska / 1500-1800 |2 jhpk | |
| 650 | 7 | |a Ubiory / Polska / 1500-1800 |2 jhpk | |
| 650 | 7 | |a Obrzędy i ceremonie pogrzebowe - Polska - 1500-1800 |2 jhpk | |
| 650 | 7 | |a Ubiory - Polska - 1500-1800 |2 jhpk | |
| 650 | 0 | 7 | |a Trauerkleidung |0 (DE-588)4185955-8 |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf |
| 651 | 7 | |a Polen |0 (DE-588)4046496-9 |2 gnd |9 rswk-swf | |
| 653 | 4 | |a Geschichte 1600-1800 | |
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| 689 | 0 | 1 | |a Trauerkleidung |0 (DE-588)4185955-8 |D s |
| 689 | 0 | 2 | |a Geschichte 1600-1800 |A z |
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| 856 | 4 | 2 | |m Digitalisierung BSB Muenchen 19 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment |q application/pdf |u http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016565371&sequence=000005&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |3 Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| 856 | 4 | 2 | |m Digitalisierung BSB Muenchen 19 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment |q application/pdf |u http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016565371&sequence=000006&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |3 Abstract |
| 856 | 4 | 2 | |m Digitalisierung UB Passau - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment |q application/pdf |u http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016565371&sequence=000008&line_number=0003&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |3 Klappentext |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
| _version_ | 1804137755540717568 |
|---|---|
| adam_text | SPIS TREŚCI
ZAGADNIENIA WSTĘPNE
................................................................................................... 11
OSWAJANIE ŚMIERCI, CZYLI KREOWANIE RZECZYWISTOŚCI
..................................... 29
ODZIEŻ NOSZONA ZA ŻYCIA
............................................................................................... 39
Męski ubiór narodowy
.............................................................................................. 41
Odzież męska wzorowana na modzie zachodniej
..................................................... 89
Odzież kobieca
.......................................................................................................... 112
Koszule
....................................................................................................................... 127
ODZIEŻ JEDNORAZOWEGO UŻYTKU
................................................................................. 135
Odzież jednorazowa uszyta specjalnie na ceremonię pogrzebową
............................ 137
Odzież męska wzorowana na modzie zachodniej
........................................... 137
Odzież kobieca
.................................................................................................. 142
Koszule
............................................................................................................. 149
Odzież jednorazowa przerobiona z odzieży wielokrotnego użytku
........................ 155
Męski ubiór narodowy
..................................................................................... 155
Odzież męska wzorowana na modzie zachodniej
............................................ 158
Odzież kobieca
.................................................................................................. 159
DODATKI DO ODZIEŻY
....................................................................................................... 167
Nakrycia głowy
........................................................................................................... 169
Kołpaki
............................................................................................................. 169
Czapki
.............................................................................................................. 178
Czepki
.............................................................................................................. 186
Pończochy
................................................................................................................... 198
Rękawiczki
................................................................................................................ 208
Pasy
........................................................................................................................... 215
Szale
............................................................................................................................ 225
PODSUMOWANIE
................................................................................................................... 227
SŁOWNIK TERMINÓW SPECJALISTYCZNYCH
.............................................................. 231
SPIS ILUSTRACJI
.................................................................................................................... 239
BIBLIOGRAFIA
..................................................................................................................... 249
INDEKS NAZW MIEJSCOWOŚCI
........................................................................................... 261
INDEKS RZECZYOWY
............................................................................................................. 263
ANEKS
...................................................................................................................................... 265
Wzory na tkaninach
...................................................................................................... 267
Wzory koronek i tasiemek
............................................................................................... 303
Wykroje
........................................................................................................................... 320
SUMMARY
................................................................................................................................. 341
TABLE
OF
CONTENTS
INTRODUCING PROBLEMS
.................................................................................................. 11
TAMING THE DEATH OR CREATING REALITY
................................................................ 29
CLOTHES WORN DURING LIFE
.......................................................................................... 39
National man clothes
.................................................................................................. 41
Man clothes patterned on Western fashion
............................................................... 89
Woman clothes
............................................................................................................ 112
Shirts
........................................................................................................................... 127
DISPOSABLE CLOTHES
......................................................................................................... 135
Disposable clothes sewn specially for burial ceremony
............................................. 137
Man clothes patterned on Western fashion
..................................................... 137
Woman clothes
................................................................................................. 142
Shirts
................................................................................................................. 149
Disposable clothes made from every day clothes
....................................................... 155
National man clothes
........................................................................................ 155
Man clothes patterned on Western fashion
..................................................... 158
Woman clothes
.................................................................................................. 159
ACCESSORIES
.......................................................................................................................... 169
Head covers
................................................................................................................ 167
Calpacks
............................................................................................................ 169
Caps
.............................................................................................................. 178
Bonnets
............................................................................................................. 186
Stockings
.................................................................................................................... 198
Gloves
......................................................................................................................... 208
Belts
............................................................................................................................ 215
Shawls
......................................................................................................................... 225
CONCLUSIONS
........................................................................................................................ 227
SPECIALIST DICTIONARY OF TERMS
................................................................................ 231
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
..................................................................................................... 239
BIBLIOGRAPHY
....................................................................................................................... 249
LOCALITY NAMES INDEX
.................................................................................................... 261
OBJECT INDEX
...................................................................................................................... 263
ANNEX
...................................................................................................................................... 265
Patterns on textiles
........................................................................................................... 267
Patterns of laces and tapes
.............................................................................................. 303
Patterns of clothes
............................................................................................................ 320
SUMMARY
................................................................................................................................. 341
GRAVE
CLOTHES IN POLISH REPUBLIC
FROM 17-18TH
С
SUMMARY
The basic problem undertaken in the above book is an attempt to answer the question,
how the clothes for the dead on the territory of Polish Republic in
17
and 18th
с
were
constructed, sewn and prepared. The area of studies concerned mainly silk garments, ob¬
tained during archaeological works carried out in churches. Cheaper clothes: woolen and
linen preserved in the crypts only exceptionally. Because of this the work subjects range
was limited, therefore only clothes of dead nobles and rich citizens were presented.
Until now the knowledge on burial clothing has been based most frequently on writ¬
ten and iconographical sources, which led to conclusions, that the role of the last clothes
had been played by everyday garments, monk frocks, shirts and shrouds. However, owing
to collecting information and analysis of archaeological material it was possible to broaden
our knowledge on the subject of the construction process. Unfortunately the collection
described above did not contain monk frocks. We can suppose, that the reason of their
absence could have been the fact, that they had been manufactured of easily destructive
textile and therefore they had been decomposed and have not remained till our times.
Owing to analysis and conservation works the range of sources, unobtainable till now
for fashion historians, has been expanded.
Basing on textile archaeological monuments it was possible to confirm, that the de¬
ceased had been buried in shirts or clothes, which had served them during their lives. We
could also establish, that the corpses had been put to graves in clothes specially prepared
for burial ceremony or transformed to that purpose from every day clothes. It is worth
mentioning the occurrence of both kinds of clothing in one grave.
In order to depict differences concerning the way of clothes constructing, sewing, fin¬
ishing and ornamenting as well as source material systematization, the analyzed collection
was divided into groups containing clothes of frequent usage, prepared for wearing and
disposable ones. Within the second group, gowns prepared specially for the burial cer-
Grave
clothes in Polish Republic from
17-
18th
с
emony according to obligatory fashion of those times and the clothes worn every day dur¬
ing the life, but changed for the funeral ceremony, as a result of which they got features of
disposable ones, were described. The work presents man national dresses, garments sewn
according to western fashion, clothes for women. Shirts were discussed separately. The au¬
thor also tried to indicate, which elements decided about the clothes disposable character.
Clothes prepared specially to the grave had features of obligatory fashion of those
times. It occurred very often, however, that the model was simplified, with style simplifica¬
tion. It was determined by more attention paid to the front, seen part, and quite frequently
the back part of the item was not made at all. While manufacturing disposable clothes,
particular construction elements were not cut precisely, e.g. armpits and a cut around the
neck. The textile in those places was only tucked up and pressed. Most probably the gowns
prepared for the ceremony were arranged and modelled directly on a body resting on
a bed or in a coffin. The textile edges were pulled to the back and placed under the body.
Spatial forms were created pulling the textile around the neck, forming regular folds or big
pleats. It also occurs in this type of clothes, that sleeves are often cut open from inside. It
made it easy to put clothes on heavy, inert bodies. The sleeves are frequently only fastened
to the textile edges. Such clothes could not be worn. Particular elements of the garment
were sewn behind a needle in simple stitches, basting or with round seam. Sometimes the
parts were simply pinned. Finishing of the clothes was also varied. Those final works were
often neglected: the material was folded under and pressed. Silk edges had double fold and
were sewn with simple stitches, basting or trimming. Disposable grave clothes sewn follow¬
ing
П-ібїЬс
fashion designs are characterized by detail care. It refers to, first of all, visible
elements, from the clothes front parts. They cared for details, but at the same time were not
too careful to fasten them tightly, so the laces, fringes, bands or ribbons were only pinned.
Confining disposable character of the garment was more important. They were made not
to reveal the sparings . They were to look rich, not giving impression, that they had been
made cheaper, economically, so flimsy. The living did not want to show the fact, that they
made savings arranging the family members funeral. Therefore the clothes were made of
silk with illusion of fine fashionable worn clothes, particularly in the front, central and most
visible part. It gave an impression that the corpse had been dressed for the coffin in more
expensive garments, meeting the expectations of the family members and the visitors.
Features of commonly worn clothes were also defined during studying the clothes col¬
lection excavated in the course of archaeological works. Those items had fashionable forms
and were in accordance with tailor art. Cuts under armpits and around necks are clear.
There is a distinguished, separated part covering the back, made with the same care as
the front. The pattern is carefully modelled and fits the body shape by the means of lines
of tucks and folds. The construction had to be careful and fulfill its norms, as it had to be
worn long and resistant to constant putting on and taking off. It had also to be resistant
to cleaning treatments. Pins for fastening the sleeves, ribbons were not used. All elements
were sewn firm in straight stitches or behind a needle . Ribbons, bands and laces are fas-
342
Summary
tened
well to the textile. The hooks were designed to play their role and protect the gar¬
ments from sliding down the shoulders. The items were finely finished. The textile edges
are folded and sewn tightly with straight stitch or with round seam.
Żupans
rims are
additionally framed and decorated with thin string.
Accessories and ornaments excavated in explored graves are described in a separate
chapter of the paper. Head covers were presented as follows: calpacks, caps and bonnets,
stockings, gloves, belts and shawls. Unfortunately, majority of those crypts had been for¬
merly often opened and the burials penetrated with traces of devastation, only in several
cases it was possible to find the clothes together with accessories. These examples are of
great importance, enabling further conclusions concerning the way of composing particu¬
lar clothes elements.
It was possible to point out, for example, in the analyzed collection, the fact that clothes
worn while living were equipped with the same type of accessories: belts, calpacks, bonnets,
stockings and shawls. There were cases, however, that those clothes had disposable head
covers, or the case when the dress prepared for the funeral had fine, solid gloves. Those
disposable clothes had also accessories of the same construction features.
On the base of clothes collections excavated in crypts and under the floor graves it can
be stated, that „the last clothes had not been sewn following common rules or one canon.
They are varied, both in cuts, ornamentation and accessories composition. Apart from
clothes made of expensive high quality silk, there were cheaper, poorer quality silk textiles.
The bodies were buried in simple clothes and in gowns requiring high tailor skills. The
silks had been of various colors, as the studies revealed. They were selected freely, particu¬
larly, if the body was dressed in clothes a person had worn while alive. Only the shirts were
white or cream-color, but it resulted rather from the fact, that they had been designed like
underwear or that the deceised had been buried in shirt they had on, they were mostly
white or cream-color.
The clothes being a base of the above elaboration, had served both, to Catholics and
Protestants. Owing to the studies we have obtained a new light on studying Protestant
burial ceremonies in
17
and 18th c, particularly their clothes. Until now Protestant funer¬
als have been regarded as very modest, both in ceremony and clothing for the dead. It can
be claimed, that they had been put to graves in simple, white, linen shirts, but expensive,
fashionable, silk gowns occured as well.
Due to lack of sources the garments of poorer society representatives have not been
discussed. They might have been buried in shirts or white shrouds.
Many of the items presented in the paper have not been conserved until now and I am
afraid, that probably no treatments, which could protect the textile and stop their deterio¬
ration process will ever be completed. However, the work on the book enabled to describe
them and make their documentation.
Burial clothes defined in the above book as the last clothes were one of mundane
elements composing burial ceremony. What is more it was of a very personal character. It
343
Grave
clothes in Polish Republic
fi
от
17—
18th
с.
could have been a symbol, a sign, expression of society mentality, attitude towards death,
faith, the deceised. As it was pointed out earlier it would have been the way of taming
the death, appeasing its frightful face. On the one hand the clothes worn to the grave ex¬
pressed social position of the dead person and his family, showing their attachment to ma¬
terial and mundane signs of social hierarchy. On the other hand modest simple shirts and
monk frocks expressed humility towards death and acceptance of its coming. By the means
of clothes the family could have created an illusion of the dead persons sleeping only. They
created the reality, which they could bear and accept. They tamed the death of their near¬
est and dearest and their future one, which would come one day.
Podstawowym problemem, który został podjęty w niniejszej książce, jest próba
odpowiedzi na pytanie, w jaki sposób konstruowano, szyto i przygotowywano
odzież dla zmarłych na obszarze Rzeczypospolitej w
XVII
i
XVIII
wieku.
Badaniami została objęta przede wszystkim odzież jedwabna, którą pozyskano
w trakcie prac archeologicznych prowadzonych w kościołach.
Na podstawie tekstylnych zabytków archeologicznych udało się pot¬
wierdzić, że zmarłych chowano w koszulach lub odzieży, którą przed złożeniem
do grobu noszono na co dzień. Poza tym ustalono, że grzebano również
w strojach przygotowanych specjalnie na uroczystość pogrzebową lub w odzie¬
ży przerobionej z ubrań codziennego użytku.
W celu zobrazowania różnic dotyczących sposobu konstruowania
ubiorów, ich szycia wykańczania i zdobienia oraz w celu usystematyzowania
materiału źródłowego analizowany zespół podzielono na odzież wielokrotnego
użytku, przygotowaną do noszenia i odzież jednorazowego użytku,
W pracy zaprezentowano męski strój narodowy, odzież męską wzorowaną na
modzie zachodniej, odzież w którą ubrano kobiety i oddzielnie omówiono
również koszule.
W osobnym rozdziale omówiono także dodatki
clo
odzieży, które
znaleziono przy eksplorowanych pochówkach
.
Zaprezentowano nakrycia
głowy: kołpaki, czapki i czepki, pończochy, rękawiczki, pasy i szale,
ι
|
| adam_txt |
SPIS TREŚCI
ZAGADNIENIA WSTĘPNE
. 11
OSWAJANIE ŚMIERCI, CZYLI KREOWANIE RZECZYWISTOŚCI
. 29
ODZIEŻ NOSZONA ZA ŻYCIA
. 39
Męski ubiór narodowy
. 41
Odzież męska wzorowana na modzie zachodniej
. 89
Odzież kobieca
. 112
Koszule
. 127
ODZIEŻ JEDNORAZOWEGO UŻYTKU
. 135
Odzież jednorazowa uszyta specjalnie na ceremonię pogrzebową
. 137
Odzież męska wzorowana na modzie zachodniej
. 137
Odzież kobieca
. 142
Koszule
. 149
Odzież jednorazowa przerobiona z odzieży wielokrotnego użytku
. 155
Męski ubiór narodowy
. 155
Odzież męska wzorowana na modzie zachodniej
. 158
Odzież kobieca
. 159
DODATKI DO ODZIEŻY
. 167
Nakrycia głowy
. 169
Kołpaki
. 169
Czapki
. 178
Czepki
. 186
Pończochy
. 198
Rękawiczki
. 208
Pasy
. 215
Szale
. 225
PODSUMOWANIE
. 227
SŁOWNIK TERMINÓW SPECJALISTYCZNYCH
. 231
SPIS ILUSTRACJI
. 239
BIBLIOGRAFIA
. 249
INDEKS NAZW MIEJSCOWOŚCI
. 261
INDEKS RZECZYOWY
. 263
ANEKS
. 265
Wzory na tkaninach
. 267
Wzory koronek i tasiemek
. 303
Wykroje
. 320
SUMMARY
. 341
TABLE
OF
CONTENTS
INTRODUCING PROBLEMS
. 11
TAMING THE DEATH OR CREATING REALITY
. 29
CLOTHES WORN DURING LIFE
. 39
National man clothes
. 41
Man clothes patterned on Western fashion
. 89
Woman clothes
. 112
Shirts
. 127
DISPOSABLE CLOTHES
. 135
Disposable clothes sewn specially for burial ceremony
. 137
Man clothes patterned on Western fashion
. 137
Woman clothes
. 142
Shirts
. 149
Disposable clothes made from every day clothes
. 155
National man clothes
. 155
Man clothes patterned on Western fashion
. 158
Woman clothes
. 159
ACCESSORIES
. 169
Head covers
. 167
Calpacks
. 169
Caps
. 178
Bonnets
. 186
Stockings
. 198
Gloves
. 208
Belts
. 215
Shawls
. 225
CONCLUSIONS
. 227
SPECIALIST DICTIONARY OF TERMS
. 231
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
. 239
BIBLIOGRAPHY
. 249
LOCALITY NAMES' INDEX
. 261
OBJECT INDEX
. 263
ANNEX
. 265
Patterns on textiles
. 267
Patterns of laces and tapes
. 303
Patterns of clothes
. 320
SUMMARY
. 341
GRAVE
CLOTHES IN POLISH REPUBLIC
FROM 17-18TH
С
SUMMARY
The basic problem undertaken in the above book is an attempt to answer the question,
how the clothes for the dead on the territory of Polish Republic in
17
and 18th
с
were
constructed, sewn and prepared. The area of studies concerned mainly silk garments, ob¬
tained during archaeological works carried out in churches. Cheaper clothes: woolen and
linen preserved in the crypts only exceptionally. Because of this the work subjects' range
was limited, therefore only clothes of dead nobles and rich citizens were presented.
Until now the knowledge on burial clothing has been based most frequently on writ¬
ten and iconographical sources, which led to conclusions, that the role of "the last clothes"
had been played by everyday garments, monk frocks, shirts and shrouds. However, owing
to collecting information and analysis of archaeological material it was possible to broaden
our knowledge on the subject of the construction process. Unfortunately the collection
described above did not contain monk frocks. We can suppose, that the reason of their
absence could have been the fact, that they had been manufactured of easily destructive
textile and therefore they had been decomposed and have not remained till our times.
Owing to analysis and conservation works the range of sources, unobtainable till now
for fashion historians, has been expanded.
Basing on textile archaeological monuments it was possible to confirm, that the de¬
ceased had been buried in shirts or clothes, which had served them during their lives. We
could also establish, that the corpses had been put to graves in clothes specially prepared
for burial ceremony or transformed to that purpose from every day clothes. It is worth
mentioning the occurrence of both kinds of clothing in one grave.
In order to depict differences concerning the way of clothes constructing, sewing, fin¬
ishing and ornamenting as well as source material systematization, the analyzed collection
was divided into groups containing clothes of frequent usage, prepared for wearing and
disposable ones. Within the second group, gowns prepared specially for the burial cer-
Grave
clothes in Polish Republic from
17-
18th
с
emony according to obligatory fashion of those times and the clothes worn every day dur¬
ing the life, but changed for the funeral ceremony, as a result of which they got features of
disposable ones, were described. The work presents man national dresses, garments sewn
according to western fashion, clothes for women. Shirts were discussed separately. The au¬
thor also tried to indicate, which elements decided about the clothes disposable character.
Clothes prepared specially to the grave had features of obligatory fashion of those
times. It occurred very often, however, that the model was simplified, with style simplifica¬
tion. It was determined by more attention paid to the front, seen part, and quite frequently
the back part of the item was not made at all. While manufacturing disposable clothes,
particular construction elements were not cut precisely, e.g. armpits and a cut around the
neck. The textile in those places was only tucked up and pressed. Most probably the gowns
prepared for the ceremony were arranged and modelled directly on a body resting on
a bed or in a coffin. The textile edges were pulled to the back and placed under the body.
Spatial forms were created pulling the textile around the neck, forming regular folds or big
pleats. It also occurs in this type of clothes, that sleeves are often cut open from inside. It
made it easy to put clothes on heavy, inert bodies. The sleeves are frequently only fastened
to the textile edges. Such clothes could not be worn. Particular elements of the garment
were sewn "behind a needle" in simple stitches, basting or with round seam. Sometimes the
parts were simply pinned. Finishing of the clothes was also varied. Those final works were
often neglected: the material was folded under and pressed. Silk edges had double fold and
were sewn with simple stitches, basting or trimming. Disposable grave clothes sewn follow¬
ing
П-ібїЬс
fashion designs are characterized by detail care. It refers to, first of all, visible
elements, from the clothes front parts. They cared for details, but at the same time were not
too careful to fasten them tightly, so the laces, fringes, bands or ribbons were only pinned.
Confining disposable character of the garment was more important. They were made not
to reveal the "sparings". They were to look rich, not giving impression, that they had been
made cheaper, economically, so flimsy. The living did not want to show the fact, that they
made savings arranging the family members' funeral. Therefore the clothes were made of
silk with illusion of fine fashionable worn clothes, particularly in the front, central and most
visible part. It gave an impression that the corpse had been dressed for the coffin in more
expensive garments, meeting the expectations of the family members and the visitors.
Features of commonly worn clothes were also defined during studying the clothes col¬
lection excavated in the course of archaeological works. Those items had fashionable forms
and were in accordance with tailor art. Cuts under armpits and around necks are clear.
There is a distinguished, separated part covering the back, made with the same care as
the front. The pattern is carefully modelled and fits the body shape by the means of lines
of tucks and folds. The construction had to be careful and fulfill its norms, as it had to be
worn long and resistant to constant putting on and taking off. It had also to be resistant
to cleaning treatments. Pins for fastening the sleeves, ribbons were not used. All elements
were sewn firm in straight stitches or "behind a needle". Ribbons, bands and laces are fas-
342
Summary
tened
well to the textile. The hooks were designed to play their role and protect the gar¬
ments from sliding down the shoulders. The items were finely finished. The textile edges
are folded and sewn tightly with straight stitch or with round seam.
"Żupans"
rims are
additionally framed and decorated with thin string.
Accessories and ornaments excavated in explored graves are described in a separate
chapter of the paper. Head covers were presented as follows: calpacks, caps and bonnets,
stockings, gloves, belts and shawls. Unfortunately, majority of those crypts had been for¬
merly often opened and the burials penetrated with traces of devastation, only in several
cases it was possible to find the clothes together with accessories. These examples are of
great importance, enabling further conclusions concerning the way of composing particu¬
lar clothes elements.
It was possible to point out, for example, in the analyzed collection, the fact that clothes
worn while living were equipped with the same type of accessories: belts, calpacks, bonnets,
stockings and shawls. There were cases, however, that those clothes had disposable head
covers, or the case when the dress prepared for the funeral had fine, solid gloves. Those
disposable clothes had also accessories of the same construction features.
On the base of clothes collections excavated in crypts and under the floor graves it can
be stated, that „the last clothes" had not been sewn following common rules or one canon.
They are varied, both in cuts, ornamentation and accessories composition. Apart from
clothes made of expensive high quality silk, there were cheaper, poorer quality silk textiles.
The bodies were buried in simple clothes and in gowns requiring high tailor skills. The
silks had been of various colors, as the studies revealed. They were selected freely, particu¬
larly, if the body was dressed in clothes a person had worn while alive. Only the shirts were
white or cream-color, but it resulted rather from the fact, that they had been designed like
underwear or that the deceised had been buried in shirt they had on, they were mostly
white or cream-color.
The clothes being a base of the above elaboration, had served both, to Catholics and
Protestants. Owing to the studies we have obtained a new light on studying Protestant
burial ceremonies in
17
and 18th c, particularly their clothes. Until now Protestant funer¬
als have been regarded as very modest, both in ceremony and clothing for the dead. It can
be claimed, that they had been put to graves in simple, white, linen shirts, but expensive,
fashionable, silk gowns occured as well.
Due to lack of sources the garments of poorer society representatives have not been
discussed. They might have been buried in shirts or white shrouds.
Many of the items presented in the paper have not been conserved until now and I am
afraid, that probably no treatments, which could protect the textile and stop their deterio¬
ration process will ever be completed. However, the work on the book enabled to describe
them and make their documentation.
Burial clothes defined in the above book as "the last clothes" were one of mundane
elements composing burial ceremony. What is more it was of a very personal character. It
343
Grave
clothes in Polish Republic
fi
от
17—
18th
с.
could have been a symbol, a sign, expression of society mentality, attitude towards death,
faith, the deceised. As it was pointed out earlier it would have been the way of taming
the death, appeasing its frightful face. On the one hand the clothes worn to the grave ex¬
pressed social position of the dead person and his family, showing their attachment to ma¬
terial and mundane signs of social hierarchy. On the other hand modest simple shirts and
monk frocks expressed humility towards death and acceptance of its coming. By the means
of clothes the family could have created an illusion of the dead persons sleeping only. They
created the reality, which they could bear and accept. They tamed the death of their near¬
est and dearest and their future one, which would come one day.
Podstawowym problemem, który został podjęty w niniejszej książce, jest próba
odpowiedzi na pytanie, w jaki sposób konstruowano, szyto i przygotowywano
odzież dla zmarłych na obszarze Rzeczypospolitej w
XVII
i
XVIII
wieku.
Badaniami została objęta przede wszystkim odzież jedwabna, którą pozyskano
w trakcie prac archeologicznych prowadzonych w kościołach.
Na podstawie tekstylnych zabytków archeologicznych udało się pot¬
wierdzić, że zmarłych chowano w koszulach lub odzieży, którą przed złożeniem
do grobu noszono na co dzień. Poza tym ustalono, że grzebano również
w strojach przygotowanych specjalnie na uroczystość pogrzebową lub w odzie¬
ży przerobionej z ubrań codziennego użytku.
W celu zobrazowania różnic dotyczących sposobu konstruowania
ubiorów, ich szycia wykańczania i zdobienia oraz w celu usystematyzowania
materiału źródłowego analizowany zespół podzielono na odzież wielokrotnego
użytku, przygotowaną do noszenia i odzież jednorazowego użytku,
W pracy zaprezentowano męski strój narodowy, odzież męską wzorowaną na
modzie zachodniej, odzież w którą ubrano kobiety i oddzielnie omówiono
również koszule.
W osobnym rozdziale omówiono także dodatki
clo
odzieży, które
znaleziono przy eksplorowanych pochówkach
.
Zaprezentowano nakrycia
głowy: kołpaki, czapki i czepki, pończochy, rękawiczki, pasy i szale,
ι |
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| any_adam_object_boolean | 1 |
| author | Drążkowska, Anna ca. 20./21. Jh |
| author_GND | (DE-588)134178270 |
| author_facet | Drążkowska, Anna ca. 20./21. Jh |
| author_role | aut |
| author_sort | Drążkowska, Anna ca. 20./21. Jh |
| author_variant | a d ad |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV023382293 |
| classification_rvk | KO 1040 NF 1630 |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)233514131 (DE-599)BVBBV023382293 |
| discipline | Geschichte Slavistik |
| discipline_str_mv | Geschichte Slavistik |
| edition | Wyd. 1., dodruk |
| era | Geschichte 1600-1800 gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 1600-1800 |
| format | Book |
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| geographic | Polen (DE-588)4046496-9 gnd |
| geographic_facet | Polen |
| id | DE-604.BV023382293 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| index_date | 2024-07-02T21:16:49Z |
| indexdate | 2024-07-09T21:17:20Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9788323121862 8323121869 |
| language | Polish |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-016565371 |
| oclc_num | 233514131 |
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| owner | DE-12 DE-255 DE-188 DE-739 |
| owner_facet | DE-12 DE-255 DE-188 DE-739 |
| physical | 343, [1] S. zahlr. Ill. |
| publishDate | 2008 |
| publishDateSearch | 2008 |
| publishDateSort | 2008 |
| publisher | Wydawn. Naukowe Uniw. Mikołaja Kopernika |
| record_format | marc |
| spelling | Drążkowska, Anna ca. 20./21. Jh. Verfasser (DE-588)134178270 aut Odzież grobowa w Rzeczypospolitej w XVII i XVIII wieku Anna Drążkowska Grave clothes in Polish Republic from 17 - 18th c. Wyd. 1., dodruk Toruń Wydawn. Naukowe Uniw. Mikołaja Kopernika 2008 343, [1] S. zahlr. Ill. txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Zsfassung in engl. Sprache u.d.T.: Grave clothes in Polish Republic from 17 - 18th c. Geschichte 1600-1800 gnd rswk-swf Obrzędy i ceremonie pogrzebowe / Polska / 1500-1800 jhpk Ubiory / Polska / 1500-1800 jhpk Obrzędy i ceremonie pogrzebowe - Polska - 1500-1800 jhpk Ubiory - Polska - 1500-1800 jhpk Trauerkleidung (DE-588)4185955-8 gnd rswk-swf Polen (DE-588)4046496-9 gnd rswk-swf Geschichte 1600-1800 Polen (DE-588)4046496-9 g Trauerkleidung (DE-588)4185955-8 s Geschichte 1600-1800 z DE-604 Digitalisierung BSB Muenchen 19 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016565371&sequence=000005&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis Digitalisierung BSB Muenchen 19 - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016565371&sequence=000006&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Abstract Digitalisierung UB Passau - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016565371&sequence=000008&line_number=0003&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Klappentext |
| spellingShingle | Drążkowska, Anna ca. 20./21. Jh Odzież grobowa w Rzeczypospolitej w XVII i XVIII wieku Obrzędy i ceremonie pogrzebowe / Polska / 1500-1800 jhpk Ubiory / Polska / 1500-1800 jhpk Obrzędy i ceremonie pogrzebowe - Polska - 1500-1800 jhpk Ubiory - Polska - 1500-1800 jhpk Trauerkleidung (DE-588)4185955-8 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4185955-8 (DE-588)4046496-9 |
| title | Odzież grobowa w Rzeczypospolitej w XVII i XVIII wieku |
| title_alt | Grave clothes in Polish Republic from 17 - 18th c. |
| title_auth | Odzież grobowa w Rzeczypospolitej w XVII i XVIII wieku |
| title_exact_search | Odzież grobowa w Rzeczypospolitej w XVII i XVIII wieku |
| title_exact_search_txtP | Odzież grobowa w Rzeczypospolitej w XVII i XVIII wieku |
| title_full | Odzież grobowa w Rzeczypospolitej w XVII i XVIII wieku Anna Drążkowska |
| title_fullStr | Odzież grobowa w Rzeczypospolitej w XVII i XVIII wieku Anna Drążkowska |
| title_full_unstemmed | Odzież grobowa w Rzeczypospolitej w XVII i XVIII wieku Anna Drążkowska |
| title_short | Odzież grobowa w Rzeczypospolitej w XVII i XVIII wieku |
| title_sort | odziez grobowa w rzeczypospolitej w xvii i xviii wieku |
| topic | Obrzędy i ceremonie pogrzebowe / Polska / 1500-1800 jhpk Ubiory / Polska / 1500-1800 jhpk Obrzędy i ceremonie pogrzebowe - Polska - 1500-1800 jhpk Ubiory - Polska - 1500-1800 jhpk Trauerkleidung (DE-588)4185955-8 gnd |
| topic_facet | Obrzędy i ceremonie pogrzebowe / Polska / 1500-1800 Ubiory / Polska / 1500-1800 Obrzędy i ceremonie pogrzebowe - Polska - 1500-1800 Ubiory - Polska - 1500-1800 Trauerkleidung Polen |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016565371&sequence=000005&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016565371&sequence=000006&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016565371&sequence=000008&line_number=0003&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
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