Gold cloths of Sumatra: Indonesia's songkets from ceremony to commodity
Saved in:
| Main Authors: | , , |
|---|---|
| Format: | Book |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
Leiden
KITLV Press
2007
|
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | Inhaltsverzeichnis Klappentext |
| Physical Description: | X, 137 S. Ill. |
| ISBN: | 9789067183123 |
Staff View
MARC
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Record in the Search Index
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|---|---|
| adam_text |
TABLE
OF
CONTENTS
StunMZrcv
Indonesia's Somgkets from
Ceremony to Commodity
by Susan Rodgers, Anne Summerfield and John Summerfield
Acknowledgments
1. Introduction
.
l
Susan Rodgers
2.
Sumatra's songkets: Not a fragile tradition
.10
Susan Rodgers
3.
Songkets within Indonesian textile worlds
.26
Susan Rodgers
4.
What lies behind a songket textile?
.46
Anne Summerfield and John Summerfield
·*-
5.
Commerce and creativity: Sumatran songket
business families, marketing and innovation in
contemporary songket weaving
.62
Susan Rodgers
6.
Biographied textiles
.84
Susan Rodgers, Anne Summerfield and John Summerfield
List of References
.132
Photography credits, textile collections
.137
Songket textiles
are gleaming prestige cloths created when hand-loom weavers add metal-wrapped threads across the weft, to build up
intricate motif bands of geometric and botanical designs. The supplementary wefts are gold-wrapped silk or fine cotton yarns; silver-
wrapped threads are also found in some of Indonesia's old songket weaving regions. Employing a weaving technique that is hundreds of
years old in Malaysia, Sumatra, coastal Kalimantan, and East Bali and nearby islands, songket artistry is far from being a 'disappearing
tradition today. Rather, it is a thriving, living, even expanding art form, as this textile type captures the attention of new markets in an
Indonesian public culture that is both tradition-minded and obsessed with modernity and middle class success. This study combines the
interpretive approaches of textile scholarship and cultural anthropology to explore songket aesthetics, as this remarkable shining gold cloth
moves beyond ceremonial contexts to become a 'hot item' as a marketable commodity, for sale as heritage textile and collectible. Chapters
focus on contemporary songket craft by Minangkabau, Palembang, and
Jambi
weavers, set against a background of 19th century songket
weaving excellence. As commodities, present-day Sumatran songkets can show high levels of weaving creativity and technical brilliance—
making songkets a resilient art. The book offers case studies of Minangkabau and Palembang heritage cloth businesses, to better savor
songket as an Indonesian art form enmeshed in history. |
| adam_txt |
TABLE
OF
CONTENTS
StunMZrcv
Indonesia's Somgkets from
Ceremony to Commodity
by Susan Rodgers, Anne Summerfield and John Summerfield
Acknowledgments
1. Introduction
.
l
Susan Rodgers
2.
Sumatra's songkets: Not a fragile tradition
.10
Susan Rodgers
3.
Songkets within Indonesian textile worlds
.26
Susan Rodgers
4.
What lies behind a songket textile?
.46
Anne Summerfield and John Summerfield
·*-
5.
Commerce and creativity: Sumatran songket
business families, marketing and innovation in
contemporary songket weaving
.62
Susan Rodgers
6.
Biographied textiles
.84
Susan Rodgers, Anne Summerfield and John Summerfield
List of References
.132
Photography credits, textile collections
.137
Songket textiles
are gleaming prestige cloths created when hand-loom weavers add metal-wrapped threads across the weft, to build up
intricate motif bands of geometric and botanical designs. The supplementary wefts are gold-wrapped silk or fine cotton yarns; silver-
wrapped threads are also found in some of Indonesia's old songket weaving regions. Employing a weaving technique that is hundreds of
years old in Malaysia, Sumatra, coastal Kalimantan, and East Bali and nearby islands, songket artistry is far from being a 'disappearing
tradition today. Rather, it is a thriving, living, even expanding art form, as this textile type captures the attention of new markets in an
Indonesian public culture that is both tradition-minded and obsessed with modernity and middle class success. This study combines the
interpretive approaches of textile scholarship and cultural anthropology to explore songket aesthetics, as this remarkable shining gold cloth
moves beyond ceremonial contexts to become a 'hot item' as a marketable commodity, for sale as heritage textile and collectible. Chapters
focus on contemporary songket craft by Minangkabau, Palembang, and
Jambi
weavers, set against a background of 19th century songket
weaving excellence. As commodities, present-day Sumatran songkets can show high levels of weaving creativity and technical brilliance—
making songkets a resilient art. The book offers case studies of Minangkabau and Palembang heritage cloth businesses, to better savor
songket as an Indonesian art form enmeshed in history. |
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| any_adam_object_boolean | 1 |
| author | Rodgers, Susan Summerfield, Anne Summerfield, John |
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| author_variant | s r sr a s as j s js |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV023292198 |
| callnumber-first | N - Fine Arts |
| callnumber-label | NK8880 |
| callnumber-raw | NK8880.A3 |
| callnumber-search | NK8880.A3 |
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| dewey-full | 746.14095981 |
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| discipline | Kunstgeschichte Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
| discipline_str_mv | Kunstgeschichte Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
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| genre_facet | Ausstellungskatalog |
| geographic | Sumatra (Indonesia) Economic conditions Sumatra (DE-588)4058586-4 gnd |
| geographic_facet | Sumatra (Indonesia) Economic conditions Sumatra |
| id | DE-604.BV023292198 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| index_date | 2024-07-02T20:43:35Z |
| indexdate | 2025-01-10T17:04:56Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9789067183123 |
| language | English |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-016476787 |
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| physical | X, 137 S. Ill. |
| publishDate | 2007 |
| publishDateSearch | 2007 |
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| publisher | KITLV Press |
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| spelling | Rodgers, Susan Verfasser aut Gold cloths of Sumatra Indonesia's songkets from ceremony to commodity Susan Rodgers ; Anne Summerfield and John Summerfield Leiden KITLV Press 2007 X, 137 S. Ill. txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Wirtschaft Songket Indonesia Sumatra Exhibitions Textile fabrics Indonesia Sumatra Exhibitions Textile fabrics, Minangkabau Exhibitions Textilkunst (DE-588)4059624-2 gnd rswk-swf Sumatra (Indonesia) Economic conditions Sumatra (DE-588)4058586-4 gnd rswk-swf (DE-588)4135467-9 Ausstellungskatalog gnd-content Sumatra (DE-588)4058586-4 g Textilkunst (DE-588)4059624-2 s DE-604 Summerfield, Anne Verfasser aut Summerfield, John Verfasser aut Digitalisierung UB Passau application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016476787&sequence=000003&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis Digitalisierung UB Passau application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016476787&sequence=000004&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Klappentext |
| spellingShingle | Rodgers, Susan Summerfield, Anne Summerfield, John Gold cloths of Sumatra Indonesia's songkets from ceremony to commodity Wirtschaft Songket Indonesia Sumatra Exhibitions Textile fabrics Indonesia Sumatra Exhibitions Textile fabrics, Minangkabau Exhibitions Textilkunst (DE-588)4059624-2 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4059624-2 (DE-588)4058586-4 (DE-588)4135467-9 |
| title | Gold cloths of Sumatra Indonesia's songkets from ceremony to commodity |
| title_auth | Gold cloths of Sumatra Indonesia's songkets from ceremony to commodity |
| title_exact_search | Gold cloths of Sumatra Indonesia's songkets from ceremony to commodity |
| title_exact_search_txtP | Gold cloths of Sumatra Indonesia's songkets from ceremony to commodity |
| title_full | Gold cloths of Sumatra Indonesia's songkets from ceremony to commodity Susan Rodgers ; Anne Summerfield and John Summerfield |
| title_fullStr | Gold cloths of Sumatra Indonesia's songkets from ceremony to commodity Susan Rodgers ; Anne Summerfield and John Summerfield |
| title_full_unstemmed | Gold cloths of Sumatra Indonesia's songkets from ceremony to commodity Susan Rodgers ; Anne Summerfield and John Summerfield |
| title_short | Gold cloths of Sumatra |
| title_sort | gold cloths of sumatra indonesia s songkets from ceremony to commodity |
| title_sub | Indonesia's songkets from ceremony to commodity |
| topic | Wirtschaft Songket Indonesia Sumatra Exhibitions Textile fabrics Indonesia Sumatra Exhibitions Textile fabrics, Minangkabau Exhibitions Textilkunst (DE-588)4059624-2 gnd |
| topic_facet | Wirtschaft Songket Indonesia Sumatra Exhibitions Textile fabrics Indonesia Sumatra Exhibitions Textile fabrics, Minangkabau Exhibitions Textilkunst Sumatra (Indonesia) Economic conditions Sumatra Ausstellungskatalog |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016476787&sequence=000003&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016476787&sequence=000004&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
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