Beijing opera costumes: the visual communication of character and culture
Gespeichert in:
| 1. Verfasser: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | English |
| Veröffentlicht: |
Honolulu
Univ. of Hawai'i Press
2008
|
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Beschreibung: | Includes bibliographical references and index |
| Beschreibung: | XIII, 350 S. zahlr. Ill. |
| ISBN: | 9780824829568 |
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| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Beijing opera costumes |b the visual communication of character and culture |c Alexandra B. Bonds |
| 264 | 1 | |a Honolulu |b Univ. of Hawai'i Press |c 2008 | |
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| 650 | 4 | |a Opera |x Production and direction |z China |z Beijing | |
| 650 | 4 | |a Costume |z China |z Beijing | |
| 650 | 4 | |a Opera |z China |z Beijing | |
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| adam_text |
CONTENTS
List of Tables ix
Preface xi
Introduction xv
Abbreviations xvii
Dynasties xix
1 The World of Traditional Jingju
Role Types 3
Plays 17
Visual Components 21
Costumes 26
Aesthetic Principles 28
Beauty 29
The World of Traditional
Jingju Costumes 31
Costumes and Roles 31
Identity through Costumes 34
Absence of Time Period 38
Absence of Season 38
Absence of Region 39
Dramatic Circumstances 39
Selection Process 41
Costumes and Movement 42
Costume Sources 48
The Form and Historical Roots
ofCostumes 50
Historical Background 50
Cloth-Based Sources of Clothing 52
Han Garments and Traditional Jingju
Costumes 53
Hide-Based Sources of Clothing 55
Manchu Garments and Traditional Jingju
Costumes 55
Theatrically Based Clothing 57
Form and Conventions of Usage 61
Patterning and Cut ofCostumes 63
Construction 65
Fabrics 68
The Symbolism and Application
of Color 70
History of Color Symbolism 70
Upper and Lower Colors 72
Meanings of the Upper Five Colors 73
Meanings of the Lower Five Colors 77
Color Combinations by Role Type 81
Aesthetics of Color Composition 84
Fabric and Embroidery Floss Colors 88
Lining Colors 91
V
The Aesthetics and Meanings of
the Embroidery Imagery 92
Embroidery in Chinese History 92
Embroidery Techniques 94
Composition 97
Imagery 103
The Costume Compendium 113
THE MAJOR COSTUMES 114
Mang (Court robe) 114
Niimang (Female court robe) 118
Qimang (Manchu court robe) 122
Gailiang mang (Reformed court robe) 114
Pi (Formal robe) 124
Niipi (Female formal robe) 126
Kao (Armor) 127
Niikao (Female armor) 131
Gailiang kao (Reformed armor) and Gailiang
niikao (Reformed female armor) 133
Xuezi (Informal robe) 135
Niixuezi (Female informal robe) 140
Fuguiyi (Garment of wealth and nobility) 142
THE LONG COSTUMES 145
Kai chang (Open robe) 145
Guanyi (Official robe) 147
Gailiangguanyi (Reformed official robe) 148
Eunuch Robe (Taijianyi) 149
Xueshiyi (Scholar's robe) 150
Jianyi (Archer's robe) 151
Longtaoyi (Attendant robe) 154
Dakai (Big armor) 155
Gongzhuang (Palace garment) 156
THE SHORT COSTUMES 158
Magua (Ridingjacket) 158
Baoyi (Lit. "leopard" or "embracing" clothes) 160
Kuaiyi (Lit. "fast" clothes) andBingyi
(Soldier's clothes) 162
Chayi (Lit. "tea" clothes) 165
Big-sleeved Robe (Daxiu) 166
Prisoner's Clothes (Zuiyi) 166
Executioner's Clothes (Guizishouyi) 167
Jacket and Skirt (Aoqun) and Jacket and
Trousers (Aoku) 168
Zhan'ao zhanqun (War jacket, skirt, and
trousers) 169
Caipoao (Colorful jacket for old women) 171
Duantiao (Lit. "short and convenient for playing"
robe) zn An'anyi (Children's clothing) 171
THE SPECIFIC COSTUMES 173
Religious Costumes 173
Baguayi (Eight trigrams robe) 173
Fayi (Priest's chasuble) 174
Sengyi (Buddhist robe) 175
Xiao sengyi (Young monk's robe) 175
Head Monk Cloak (Jiasha) 177
Sengkanjian or wusengyi (Military monk vest) 177
Sanse dao beixin (Three-color Daoist vest) 178
Daoist Nun Vest (Daogu kanjian) 179
Mythological Creatures and Beings 179
Ethnic Clothing 181
Qipao (Manchu gown) 181
Bufu (Coat with a badge) 183
Special Characters 184
Yulinjia (Fish-scale armor) 184
GuanYu 185
Monkey Costumes 186
Zhiduyi (Combat clothes for the Monkey
King) 186
Monkey Clothes (Houyi) 187
Houjia (Monkey armor) 188
Little Monkey Clothes (Xiao houyi) 189
Mei Lanfang Designs 189
Guzhuang ("Ancient-style" dress) 189
Cloud-terrace Costume (Yuntai zhuang) 191
contents
ACCESSORY PIECES 192
Trousers (Kuzi) and Colored Trousers
(Caiku) 192
Skirts (Qunzi) 193
Vests (Kanjian): Male 194
Vests: Female 194
Large Apron (Dafandan) and Small Apron
(Xiaofandan) 195
Capes (Doupeng) 195
Belts 196
Footwear 198
Inner Garments 200
Water Sleeves (Shuixiu) 202
/ Makeup, Hair, and Headdresses 2.03
Women's Makeup 204
Men's Makeup 206
Lianpu (Lit. "face chart") Makeup 207
Hairdressing and Accessories 216
Men's Hair 223
Beards 224
Headdresses 226
Ceremonial Headdresses 227
Helmets 229
Hats 231
Soft Caps 234
Supplementary Styles 239
Accessories 239
Dressing Techniques and
Costume Plots 243
Training 243
Patterns of Selection 244
Layering Patterns 249
Deviations from Dressing Patterns 250
Costume Plots 250
A Costume Plot and Two Performances 253
Dressing Techniques 260
Trunks and Storage 263
Appendix 1. Costume Pattern Drafts 299
Appendix 2. Dictionary of Jingju
Characters 315
Notes 317
Glossary 323
List of Performances 337
Bibliography 341
Index 345
CONTENTS |
| adam_txt |
CONTENTS
List of Tables ix
Preface xi
Introduction xv
Abbreviations xvii
Dynasties xix
1 The World of Traditional Jingju
Role Types 3
Plays 17
Visual Components 21
Costumes 26
Aesthetic Principles 28
Beauty 29
The World of Traditional
Jingju Costumes 31
Costumes and Roles 31
Identity through Costumes 34
Absence of Time Period 38
Absence of Season 38
Absence of Region 39
Dramatic Circumstances 39
Selection Process 41
Costumes and Movement 42
Costume Sources 48
The Form and Historical Roots
ofCostumes 50
Historical Background 50
Cloth-Based Sources of Clothing 52
Han Garments and Traditional Jingju
Costumes 53
Hide-Based Sources of Clothing 55
Manchu Garments and Traditional Jingju
Costumes 55
Theatrically Based Clothing 57
Form and Conventions of Usage 61
Patterning and Cut ofCostumes 63
Construction 65
Fabrics 68
The Symbolism and Application
of Color 70
History of Color Symbolism 70
Upper and Lower Colors 72
Meanings of the Upper Five Colors 73
Meanings of the Lower Five Colors 77
Color Combinations by Role Type 81
Aesthetics of Color Composition 84
Fabric and Embroidery Floss Colors 88
Lining Colors 91
V
The Aesthetics and Meanings of
the Embroidery Imagery 92
Embroidery in Chinese History 92
Embroidery Techniques 94
Composition 97
Imagery 103
The Costume Compendium 113
THE MAJOR COSTUMES 114
Mang (Court robe) 114
Niimang (Female court robe) 118
Qimang (Manchu court robe) 122
Gailiang mang (Reformed court robe) 114
Pi (Formal robe) 124
Niipi (Female formal robe) 126
Kao (Armor) 127
Niikao (Female armor) 131
Gailiang kao (Reformed armor) and Gailiang
niikao (Reformed female armor) 133
Xuezi (Informal robe) 135
Niixuezi (Female informal robe) 140
Fuguiyi (Garment of wealth and nobility) 142
THE LONG COSTUMES 145
Kai chang (Open robe) 145
Guanyi (Official robe) 147
Gailiangguanyi (Reformed official robe) 148
Eunuch Robe (Taijianyi) 149
Xueshiyi (Scholar's robe) 150
Jianyi (Archer's robe) 151
Longtaoyi (Attendant robe) 154
Dakai (Big armor) 155
Gongzhuang (Palace garment) 156
THE SHORT COSTUMES 158
Magua (Ridingjacket) 158
Baoyi (Lit. "leopard" or "embracing" clothes) 160
Kuaiyi (Lit. "fast" clothes) andBingyi
(Soldier's clothes) 162
Chayi (Lit. "tea" clothes) 165
Big-sleeved Robe (Daxiu) 166
Prisoner's Clothes (Zuiyi) 166
Executioner's Clothes (Guizishouyi) 167
Jacket and Skirt (Aoqun) and Jacket and
Trousers (Aoku) 168
Zhan'ao zhanqun (War jacket, skirt, and
trousers) 169
Caipoao (Colorful jacket for old women) 171
Duantiao (Lit. "short and convenient for playing"
robe) zn An'anyi (Children's clothing) 171
THE SPECIFIC COSTUMES 173
Religious Costumes 173
Baguayi (Eight trigrams robe) 173
Fayi (Priest's chasuble) 174
Sengyi (Buddhist robe) 175
Xiao sengyi (Young monk's robe) 175
Head Monk Cloak (Jiasha) 177
Sengkanjian or wusengyi (Military monk vest) 177
Sanse dao beixin (Three-color Daoist vest) 178
Daoist Nun Vest (Daogu kanjian) 179
Mythological Creatures and Beings 179
Ethnic Clothing 181
Qipao (Manchu gown) 181
Bufu (Coat with a badge) 183
Special Characters 184
Yulinjia (Fish-scale armor) 184
GuanYu 185
Monkey Costumes 186
Zhiduyi (Combat clothes for the Monkey
King) 186
Monkey Clothes (Houyi) 187
Houjia (Monkey armor) 188
Little Monkey Clothes (Xiao houyi) 189
Mei Lanfang Designs 189
Guzhuang ("Ancient-style" dress) 189
Cloud-terrace Costume (Yuntai zhuang) 191
contents
ACCESSORY PIECES 192
Trousers (Kuzi) and Colored Trousers
(Caiku) 192
Skirts (Qunzi) 193
Vests (Kanjian): Male 194
Vests: Female 194
Large Apron (Dafandan) and Small Apron
(Xiaofandan) 195
Capes (Doupeng) 195
Belts 196
Footwear 198
Inner Garments 200
Water Sleeves (Shuixiu) 202
/ Makeup, Hair, and Headdresses 2.03
Women's Makeup 204
Men's Makeup 206
Lianpu (Lit. "face chart") Makeup 207
Hairdressing and Accessories 216
Men's Hair 223
Beards 224
Headdresses 226
Ceremonial Headdresses 227
Helmets 229
Hats 231
Soft Caps 234
Supplementary Styles 239
Accessories 239
Dressing Techniques and
Costume Plots 243
Training 243
Patterns of Selection 244
Layering Patterns 249
Deviations from Dressing Patterns 250
Costume Plots 250
A Costume Plot and Two Performances 253
Dressing Techniques 260
Trunks and Storage 263
Appendix 1. Costume Pattern Drafts 299
Appendix 2. Dictionary of Jingju
Characters 315
Notes 317
Glossary 323
List of Performances 337
Bibliography 341
Index 345
CONTENTS |
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| id | DE-604.BV023055614 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| index_date | 2024-07-02T19:26:29Z |
| indexdate | 2024-12-06T09:13:23Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9780824829568 |
| language | English |
| lccn | 2007043309 |
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| spelling | Bonds, Alexandra B. Verfasser aut Beijing opera costumes the visual communication of character and culture Alexandra B. Bonds Honolulu Univ. of Hawai'i Press 2008 XIII, 350 S. zahlr. Ill. txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Includes bibliographical references and index Opera Production and direction China Beijing Costume China Beijing Opera China Beijing Inszenierung (DE-588)4027223-0 gnd rswk-swf Kostüm (DE-588)4136978-6 gnd rswk-swf Peking-Oper (DE-588)4173610-2 gnd rswk-swf Peking-Oper (DE-588)4173610-2 s Kostüm (DE-588)4136978-6 s Inszenierung (DE-588)4027223-0 s DE-604 HBZ Datenaustausch application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=016258908&sequence=000004&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Bonds, Alexandra B. Beijing opera costumes the visual communication of character and culture Opera Production and direction China Beijing Costume China Beijing Opera China Beijing Inszenierung (DE-588)4027223-0 gnd Kostüm (DE-588)4136978-6 gnd Peking-Oper (DE-588)4173610-2 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4027223-0 (DE-588)4136978-6 (DE-588)4173610-2 |
| title | Beijing opera costumes the visual communication of character and culture |
| title_auth | Beijing opera costumes the visual communication of character and culture |
| title_exact_search | Beijing opera costumes the visual communication of character and culture |
| title_exact_search_txtP | Beijing opera costumes the visual communication of character and culture |
| title_full | Beijing opera costumes the visual communication of character and culture Alexandra B. Bonds |
| title_fullStr | Beijing opera costumes the visual communication of character and culture Alexandra B. Bonds |
| title_full_unstemmed | Beijing opera costumes the visual communication of character and culture Alexandra B. Bonds |
| title_short | Beijing opera costumes |
| title_sort | beijing opera costumes the visual communication of character and culture |
| title_sub | the visual communication of character and culture |
| topic | Opera Production and direction China Beijing Costume China Beijing Opera China Beijing Inszenierung (DE-588)4027223-0 gnd Kostüm (DE-588)4136978-6 gnd Peking-Oper (DE-588)4173610-2 gnd |
| topic_facet | Opera Production and direction China Beijing Costume China Beijing Opera China Beijing Inszenierung Kostüm Peking-Oper |
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