The cut of his coat: men, dress, and consumer culture in Britain ; 1860 - 1914
Gespeichert in:
1. Verfasser: | |
---|---|
Format: | Buch |
Sprache: | English |
Veröffentlicht: |
Athens
Ohio Univ. Press
2006
|
Schlagworte: | |
Online-Zugang: | Table of contents only Contributor biographical information Publisher description Inhaltsverzeichnis |
Beschreibung: | Literaturverz. S. 199 - 243 |
Beschreibung: | XII, 252 S. Ill. |
ISBN: | 0821417029 0821417037 9780821417027 9780821417034 |
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650 | 4 | |a Male consumers |z Great Britain |x History | |
650 | 4 | |a Men's clothing |z England |x History | |
650 | 4 | |a Social classes |z England |x History | |
650 | 4 | |a Masculinity |z England |x History | |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
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adam_text | Contents
List of Figures ix
Acknowledgments xi
o
Introduction i
1 It cannot be supposed that men make no study of dress
The Disappearance of Men s Fashion and Consumption in Victorian Britain 21
2 Outfitting the Gent
The Emergence of the Male Consumer and the Commodification of the Male Body 52
3 Really there is much more to be said about men s fashions
than I had imagined
Fashion and the Birth of the Men s Lifestyle Periodical 91
4 From Dandy to Masher to Consumer
Competing Masculinities and Class Aspirations 128
5 Ready to Wear
Class Performance and the Triumph of Middle Class Sartorial Taste 161
Epilogue 191
Notes 199
Bibliography 225
Index 245
Figures
Frontispiece Temptation ii
Figure i.i High stocks and high collars 6
Figure i.2 Fashion plate illustrating patterned trousers, from
Gazette of Fashion 8
Figure 1.3 Fashion plate illustrating patterned trousers, from
Gazette of Fashion 8
Figure 2.1 Cadbury s Cocoa advertisement 59
Figure 2.2 Elliman s Universal Embrocation advertisement 60
Figure 2.3 Bovril advertisement 62
Figure 2.4 Boer War—decorated window display 63
Figure 2.5 Men s wardrobes and dressers 68
Figure 2.6 Harrods as a Man s Store 70
Figure 2.7 The Gentlemen s Club at Harrods 71
Figure 2.8 Floor plan of Harrods—ground floor 72
Figure 2.9 Floor plan of Harrods—first floor 73
Figure 2.10 Comfort in shopping is all very well . . . 75
Figure 2.11 Cadbury s Cocoa advertisement 77
Figure 2.12 Worth et Cie corset advertisement 8s
Figure 2.13 Worths Corsets advertisement 86
Figure 2.14 Gent s fitted traveling bag 87
Figure 2.K Gent s dressing cases 88
Figure 2.16 Williams Shaving Soaps advertisement 89
Figure 3.1 Front cover of Fashion s first issue 92
Figure 3.2 First appearance of Fashion s dress chart 103
Figure 3.3 Grunfeld s Patent Brace Vest advertisement 107
Figure 3.4 Jaeger s sporting shirt 107
Figure 3.5 Drimosit motor apron 108
Figure 3.6 Askew s Lever Wardrobe advertisement 109
Figure 3.7 The Lombard wardrobe 109
Figure 3.8 Trousanger advertisement no
Figure 3.9 Crocodile skin waistcoat m
Figure 3.10 Twenty six varieties of socks at Lewin s 112
Figure 3.11 Gentleman trying on corset 115
Figure 3.12 Worth et Cie corset advertisement 117
Figure 3.13 Smoke! 122
Figure 4.1 Beau Brummell 131
Figure 4.2 What a miwackulous tye, Fwank 133
Figure 4.3 Did you call the Police, Sir? 134
Figure 4.4 Standing No Nonsense 138
Figure 4.5 I will say this for Bill, e do look the Gentleman! 139
Figure 4.6 The Height of Masherdom 140
Figure 4.7 The Cad acts on the offensive 141
Figure 4.8 1870s masher 142
Figure 4.9 1870s masher among A Lot of Lovers 143
Figure 4.10 Oscar Wilde in checkered lounger 145
Figure 4.11 Inconvenience of Modern Male Attire 151
Figure 4.12 Three Men in a Cap 153
Figure 4.13 You Hold Yourself Like This 155
Figure 4.14 Oscar Wilde in Aesthete costume 157
Figure 5.1 Frock coat 175
Figure 5.2 Lounge suit with jockey vest 175
Figure 5.3 Lewis s Business Suits advertisement 177
Figure 5.4 Men s hats in Thomas Townend and Co. advertisement 180
Figure 5.5 Norfolk jackets 181
Figure 5.6 Fashion plate of sporting costumes, from the Gentleman s
Magazine of Fashion 184
Figure 5.7 Fashion plate of tennis costumes, from Minister s Gazette of
Fashion 185
Figure 5.8 Advertisement for Lewis s Football Outfits 187
FIGURES
|
adam_txt |
Contents
List of Figures ix
Acknowledgments xi
o
Introduction i
1 "It cannot be supposed that men make no study of dress"
The "Disappearance"of Men's Fashion and Consumption in Victorian Britain 21
2 Outfitting the Gent
The Emergence of the Male Consumer and the Commodification of the Male Body 52
3 "Really there is much more to be said about men's fashions
than I had imagined"
Fashion and the Birth of the Men's Lifestyle Periodical 91
4 From Dandy to Masher to Consumer
Competing Masculinities and Class Aspirations 128
5 Ready to Wear
Class Performance and the Triumph of Middle Class Sartorial Taste 161
Epilogue 191
Notes 199
Bibliography 225
Index 245
Figures
Frontispiece "Temptation" ii
Figure i.i High stocks and high collars 6
Figure i.2 Fashion plate illustrating patterned trousers, from
Gazette of Fashion 8
Figure 1.3 Fashion plate illustrating patterned trousers, from
Gazette of Fashion 8
Figure 2.1 Cadbury's Cocoa advertisement 59
Figure 2.2 Elliman's Universal Embrocation advertisement 60
Figure 2.3 Bovril advertisement 62
Figure 2.4 Boer War—decorated window display 63
Figure 2.5 Men's wardrobes and dressers 68
Figure 2.6 "Harrods as a Man's Store" 70
Figure 2.7 "The Gentlemen's Club at Harrods" 71
Figure 2.8 Floor plan of Harrods—ground floor 72
Figure 2.9 Floor plan of Harrods—first floor 73
Figure 2.10 "Comfort in shopping is all very well . . ." 75
Figure 2.11 Cadbury's Cocoa advertisement 77
Figure 2.12 Worth et Cie corset advertisement 8s
Figure 2.13 Worths Corsets advertisement 86
Figure 2.14 Gent's fitted traveling bag 87
Figure 2.K Gent's dressing cases 88
Figure 2.16 Williams' Shaving Soaps advertisement 89
Figure 3.1 Front cover of Fashion's first issue 92
Figure 3.2 First appearance of Fashion's dress chart 103
Figure 3.3 Grunfeld's Patent Brace Vest advertisement 107
Figure 3.4 Jaeger's "sporting shirt" 107
Figure 3.5 "Drimosit" motor apron 108
Figure 3.6 Askew's "Lever" Wardrobe advertisement 109
Figure 3.7 The "Lombard" wardrobe 109
Figure 3.8 "Trousanger" advertisement no
Figure 3.9 Crocodile skin waistcoat m
Figure 3.10 Twenty six varieties of socks at Lewin's 112
Figure 3.11 Gentleman trying on corset 115
Figure 3.12 Worth et Cie corset advertisement 117
Figure 3.13 "Smoke!" 122
Figure 4.1 Beau Brummell 131
Figure 4.2 "What a miwackulous tye, Fwank" 133
Figure 4.3 "Did you call the Police, Sir?" 134
Figure 4.4 "Standing No Nonsense" 138
Figure 4.5 "I will say this for Bill, 'e do look the Gentleman!" 139
Figure 4.6 "The Height of Masherdom" 140
Figure 4.7 "The 'Cad' acts on the offensive" 141
Figure 4.8 1870s masher 142
Figure 4.9 1870s masher among "A Lot of Lovers" 143
Figure 4.10 Oscar Wilde in checkered lounger 145
Figure 4.11 "Inconvenience of Modern Male Attire" 151
Figure 4.12 "Three Men in a Cap" 153
Figure 4.13 "You Hold Yourself Like This" 155
Figure 4.14 Oscar Wilde in Aesthete costume 157
Figure 5.1 Frock coat 175
Figure 5.2 Lounge suit with jockey vest 175
Figure 5.3 Lewis's Business Suits advertisement 177
Figure 5.4 Men's hats in Thomas Townend and Co. advertisement 180
Figure 5.5 Norfolk jackets 181
Figure 5.6 Fashion plate of sporting costumes, from the Gentleman's
Magazine of Fashion 184
Figure 5.7 Fashion plate of tennis costumes, from Minister's Gazette of
Fashion 185
Figure 5.8 Advertisement for Lewis's Football Outfits 187
FIGURES |
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spelling | Shannon, Brent A. Verfasser aut The cut of his coat men, dress, and consumer culture in Britain ; 1860 - 1914 Brent Alan Shannon Athens Ohio Univ. Press 2006 XII, 252 S. Ill. txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Literaturverz. S. 199 - 243 Geschichte 1860-1914 gnd rswk-swf Geschichte Male consumers Great Britain History Men's clothing England History Social classes England History Masculinity England History Consumption (Economics) England History Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd rswk-swf Männerkleidung (DE-588)4168470-9 gnd rswk-swf Großbritannien Großbritannien (DE-588)4022153-2 gnd rswk-swf Großbritannien (DE-588)4022153-2 g Männerkleidung (DE-588)4168470-9 s Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 s Geschichte 1860-1914 z b DE-604 http://www.loc.gov/catdir/toc/ecip0614/2006017471.html Table of contents only http://www.loc.gov/catdir/enhancements/fy0666/2006017471-b.html Contributor biographical information http://www.loc.gov/catdir/enhancements/fy0666/2006017471-d.html Publisher description HBZ Datenaustausch application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=015392109&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
spellingShingle | Shannon, Brent A. The cut of his coat men, dress, and consumer culture in Britain ; 1860 - 1914 Geschichte Male consumers Great Britain History Men's clothing England History Social classes England History Masculinity England History Consumption (Economics) England History Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Männerkleidung (DE-588)4168470-9 gnd |
subject_GND | (DE-588)4039792-0 (DE-588)4168470-9 (DE-588)4022153-2 |
title | The cut of his coat men, dress, and consumer culture in Britain ; 1860 - 1914 |
title_auth | The cut of his coat men, dress, and consumer culture in Britain ; 1860 - 1914 |
title_exact_search | The cut of his coat men, dress, and consumer culture in Britain ; 1860 - 1914 |
title_exact_search_txtP | The cut of his coat men, dress, and consumer culture in Britain ; 1860 - 1914 |
title_full | The cut of his coat men, dress, and consumer culture in Britain ; 1860 - 1914 Brent Alan Shannon |
title_fullStr | The cut of his coat men, dress, and consumer culture in Britain ; 1860 - 1914 Brent Alan Shannon |
title_full_unstemmed | The cut of his coat men, dress, and consumer culture in Britain ; 1860 - 1914 Brent Alan Shannon |
title_short | The cut of his coat |
title_sort | the cut of his coat men dress and consumer culture in britain 1860 1914 |
title_sub | men, dress, and consumer culture in Britain ; 1860 - 1914 |
topic | Geschichte Male consumers Great Britain History Men's clothing England History Social classes England History Masculinity England History Consumption (Economics) England History Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Männerkleidung (DE-588)4168470-9 gnd |
topic_facet | Geschichte Male consumers Great Britain History Men's clothing England History Social classes England History Masculinity England History Consumption (Economics) England History Mode Männerkleidung Großbritannien |
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