Ubiór mieszczan i szlachty z XVI-XVIII wieku z kościoła p. w. Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Marii Panny w Toruniu:
Gespeichert in:
| 1. Verfasser: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Buch |
| Sprache: | Polish |
| Veröffentlicht: |
Toruń
Wydawn. Uniw. Mikołaja Kopernika
2005
|
| Ausgabe: | Wyd. 1. |
| Schlagworte: | |
| Online-Zugang: | Inhaltsverzeichnis Abstract |
| Beschreibung: | Zsfassung in dt. u. engl. Sprache u.d.T.: Die Kleidung des Bürgertums und der Adligen im 16.-18 Jahrhundert auf Grund von archäologischen Forschungen, durchgeführt in der Marienkirche in Thorn, Polen |
| Beschreibung: | 238 S. Ill. |
| ISBN: | 8323118965 |
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Datensatz im Suchindex
| _version_ | 1804135560563916800 |
|---|---|
| adam_text | Spis treści
Od
Ubiór w
Historia badań archeologicznych w kościele WNMP w Toruniu
Kościół WNMP jako nekropola mieszczan i szlachty
Pompa funebris
Historia jedwabiu i tkanin jedwabnych
Charakterystyka reliktów szat
Moda XVI-XVIII
Kogo pochowano w kościele?
Toruń miastem różnych kultur
Katalog
Wykaz skrótów
Słownik
Wykaz ikonografii..
Bibliografia
Źródła pisane i drukowane
Literatura
Spis ilustracji
List of illustrations..........................................
Abbildungsverzeichnis....................................... 215
Townsmen and noblemen garments from the
in the light of archaeological studies conducted in the Holy Virgin
Mary Assumption Church in
Die
Jahrhundert auf Grund von archäologischen Forschungen,
durchgeführt in der Marienkirche in
Zusammenfassung..........................................230
Contents
From the author
Clothes in the 16th
History of archaeological studies in the Holy Virgin Mary Assumption
Church in
The HVMA Church as a necropolis of gentry and townsmen
The funebris pump
The history of silk and silk textile
The characteristics of the gowns relicts
Fashion of the 16th
Who was buried in the Church?
Toruň
The catalogue
Dictionary
Iconography index
Bibliography
Written and printed sources
Literature
List of illustrations
Summary
Zusammenfassung..........................................230
Inhaltsverzeichnis
Von der Autorin............................................ 9
Kleidung im 16.-18. Jahrhundert - Stand der Forschung.......... 11
Die Geschichte der archäologischen Forschungen
in der Marienkirche in
Die Marienkirche als Begräbnisstätte des Bürgertums
und der Adligen........................................ 22
Pompa Funebris
Die Geschichte der Seide und der Seidengewebe................ 36
Die Charakteristik, der Kleidungsreste......................... 48
Mode im 16.—18. Jahrhundert
Wer wurde in der Kirche begraben?............................ 102
Thorn
Katalog.................................................... 111
Wörterbuch................................................ 185
Verzeichnis der Ikonographie................................. 187
Literaturverzeichnis......................................... 189
Geschriebene und gedruckte Quellen..................... 189
Literatur.............................................. 191
Abbildungsverzeichnis....................................... 203
Summary
Zusammenfassung.......................................... 230
Townsmen and noblemen garments from the
in the light of archaeological studies conducted in the holy virgin
Mary Assumption Church in
Summary
Problems connected with fashion in particular historical times have always
raised various emotions in societies: envy, competition in wealth demonstration. It
has always been noticeable until today in everyday life, state ceremonies, family
festivities and other social meetings. This phenomenon was also expressed dur¬
ing funeral ceremonies. In spite of its serious and sad character the fact of funeral
was an occasion for showing off with the family wealth, paying more honour to
the deceased person and marking the high standard of life. One of the points of
such a ceremony was preparing the body of the deceased for burying; dressing it
in clothes and jewellery as rich as possible. Archaeological studies in The Holy
Virgin Assumption Church in
elements of burial equipment, including silk gowns. The analysis of the obtained
garment relics enabled the comprehensive elaboration on technological problems
of costumology related to silk textile manufacturing.
Archaeological studies inside the church started in
installation works. They were carried on in the sacristy, presbytery and in one
part of the church nave. The graves were spotted in three trenches (Fig. Ill) lo¬
cated in the presbytery and the nave. A brick chamber of grave crypt was found
in the trench I, situated in the middle part of presbytery. It contained
placed in layers in
with numerous metal fittings, upholstered with beautiful silks inside. Most of the
skeletons preserved relics of clothes. The trenches II and III contained numerous
skeletons and dried bones concentration. The analysis of the grave equipment
from particular trenches including the coffin boards and coat of arms cartouches as
well as the fact of co.nsiderable depth of skeletons deposition
disturbances in burial order in the last two trenches. It was proved that the burials
of Anna
situated above the coffin of Thobiasz Schilling from
that the burials from the presbytery from the Protestant times of the church were
removed to the common graves in the nave to enable building a brick grave crypt
for later (from
The relics of excavated gowns were conserved and afterwards reconstructed.
The analysis included
of silk gloves. During conservation works attempts were made to define the kind
of textiles destruction
ones originated during deposition underground in the crypt and in soil graves.
222
Each
fibres, the structure of weave and the density of textile were also completed. The
particular attention was directed to the clothes cutting, way of fashioning and
decorating them. We are able to recognize the clothes worn during life, the gowns
adjusted as grave gowns i.e. the clothes remade from earlier worn and also the
gown designed only for the grave. Archaeological studies carried out in crypts and
soil graves contribute much to material culture history and first of all to the history
of clothing, providing new information about grave gowns sewn with destination
for the last way of deceased person. Written sources do not inform us in any case
about burying the dead in clothes consisting only of the front part and the sleeves,
while such cases were reported in
According to the rules of
of a deceased person should have been dressed in a white ample shirt or wrapped
in a shroud. The dead persons families tried to omit those rules of modesty in
many ways.
broke all the rules connected with burial laws from
to say if the buried persons represented the social group subjected to those rules
of modesty and if their families were charged subsequently for disobedience by
vet courts (town council courts for cases of trespassing local regulations), because
the documentation concerning that institution activities has still been waiting for
detailed source analysis. The burial in church itself indicates the high position in
social hierarchy.
During particular stages of analytic works
were used. The portraits of secular representatives, epitaphs and coffin portraits
showed in the Baroque period variety of social groups (nobles, magnates, kings)
dressed in Polish national garments or the ones in western fashion. The icono-
graphical material enabled to trace the changes in Polish style. It showed the man¬
ner of wearing clothes and additions. The written sources inform us about the no¬
menclature of those clothes, their colours and a wide range of ornamentations used
to embellish them. In testaments which were drawn with daily dates it is possible
to trace the appearance of the new types of clothing and their spread out in usage
in particular area. In inventories we find confirmation on the subject of organiza¬
tion and the costs of funerals, which were in accordance with wealth and social
status of a buried person. In case of deceased merchants and craftsmen registers of
commodities usually evaluated, had been additionally made. We learn from them
about the types of sold textiles and luxurious additions or semi-products necessary
for their making. Considering the collection of clothes found in HVMA Church
in
textiles and elaborate forms of clothing testify wide contacts of
and Kuiavian nobles with western and eastern countries as well.
The Torunian garments were sewn of homogenous and ornamented textiles.
The uniformed ones included mainly linings of various qualities manufactured in
1/1
geometric elements, which in many cases were also used simultaneously in one
composition. The harmony of particular details proportions and the elegance of
drawing had an impact on beauty of ornamental subjects used for textile produc¬
tion. The motifs adopted from the floral realm had been stylized or presented
Townsmen and noblemen garments from the
in natural manner, composing usually entanglement of curved or roundly shaped
lines. Tracing the similarities in motifs and their styles indicates the main manu¬
facturers of Torunian textiles, which had been weaver shops in Italy and France.
It should be noticed, at the same time, that in many cases anonymous craftsmen
had chosen single-handed ornamental patterns. It could have happened that some
of them were designed simultaneously in independent centers. Pointing out the
place of textile origin is difficult and even impossible, because from the beginning
of
textiles. Besides, the discussed textiles, were not woven on a special order but
in mass production and in that scope the differences are imperceptible. Discuss¬
ing particular categories of silk textiles it is difficult to precise their dates basing
only on ornamentation and weaving technique. It should be noticed that various
weaving techniques have been known for hundreds or even thousands of years;
only some of them have been more popular in particular periods than the others.
The ornamental-pattern compositions also are not any premise for precise dating,
because some of decorative systems coexist with each other in various historical
periods. The main problem refers to the fabrics with plain geometrical pattern,
on which we do not find information in professional literature, because they are
not a dating element, and except this, features characterizing particular periods
in textile history, have not been described on the basis of such simple composi¬
tions. Whereas plain, homogenous textiles have been constantly present in mate¬
rial culture and do not constitute any basis for exact dating due to their entire
homogeneity.
Archaeological and historical studies give us an opportunity for a wider look
at the problem. Two stages are outlined in the HVMA Church: The Protestant
and the Catholic one. Textiles from which the following clothes had been sewn,
include the Protestant period: men s long grave-gown (cat.
2),
complete set szustokor and pants (cat.
children s grave-gowns (cat.
lows: garments of kontusz style
№ 17),
(cat.
- 1724 -
the textiles from the second unit could have been manufactured before that date,
however, it is inadvisable to add them more time extend, than approx.
while the textiles of the first unit can be contained within the time-limit of up to
200
half of the 16th century. Written sources confirm burials of dead persons under the
shrine s floor during all that time (A. Semrau
als discovered are during the archaeological researches are anonymous, therefore
the death s annual
system of burials becomes a further obstacle. Considering all reservations men¬
tioned above, it is not possible to distinguish precisely the chronology of singular
textiles. However, it should be pointed out, that the fabrics from the Protestant
period adjust entirely to the style of the 16th and the 17th centuries, while the tex¬
tiles from the Catholic burials are placed in the decorative style from the turn of
the
224
The garments excavated in the Church can generally be defined as grave-gar¬
ments, because all had got to the grave with dead persons. Nevertheless, there are
differences between them. We recognize among the garments those ones worn
during deceased person life-time, garments adapted for burial clothes i.e.
clothes remade from worn previously, finally the clothes sewn exclusively to the
grave deposit. It could seem that in the case of garments considered hereby this
division should be clearly readable and should not add the explorer more doubts
concerning classification of those particular garments groups. Various kinds of self-
decomposition and destruction, which occur during deposition in soil or crypt,
however, obliterate differences between garments. Because of that the analysis of
each detail of the remains of grave-clothes is essential for their adequate identifi¬
cation. Estimation of a textile disintegration form (ornament s obliteration, frayed
collars, cuffs, wristbands, repairs made during clothes wearing time
with another material, darns and the like). Very precise analysis of stitches made (if
possible in every part of an item), fixity of fastening attachments, statement of gar¬
ment s back part existence, accuracy of details fashion and the manner of finishing
them up, also provide information on that subject. It is possible to undertake effort
of classifying apart groups of grave-garments, basing only on such observations.
The garments worn during a life-time include men s clothes in kontusz fash¬
ion (cat.
grave-crypt built after
one case a defunct person was dressed in the garment, which he could not have
worn during his life, because the garment of kontusz fashion (cat.
too large for him, so that while using he would have had serious difficulties with
moving and in such wearing one ought not to have appeared in elegant and stately
manner, though. A man approx.
above, while it would be suitable for a man of stately appearance
174
usage. Hereby the garment with cubic ornament (cat.
out and torn as a result of terrestrial using. Only its top part resisted destruction
(however, remained in a very bad condition). A small cubic ornament on the textile
surface of that garment was readable in a little percentage. It was entirely rubbed
out in some parts, so that the textile looked like homogenous one.
Belts as well had been getting into the graves after very intense period of us¬
ing. Frays along the line of the belts fold in every
belts, lined with a cut fragment of band, confirm that. The grave garments were
decorated only with halves of belts, because despite considerable abrasions, they
still represented a particularly precious article.
The next two garments (cat.
lars, wristbands and at lower rims as well
threads of weft or warp in textiles were usually frayed and the remained fragments
had loose weave.
Dresses worn during life-time and remodelled into grave gowns were women s
dresses (cat.
two dresses (cat.
purposes were the sleeves, which had been sewn very carefully (small stitches be¬
hind a needle) and precisely completed. Fronts of those dresses had been made of
Townsmen and noblemen garments from the
rectangular pieces of fabrics and draped on bodies of dead women. Loose stitch or
brown pins had been used to fasten particular details. In that case no attention had
been paid to cut the back. The rims of the dresses had been placed in such a way
to make an impression that the person had been dressed in a complete gown.
The third dress with palm ornamentation (cat.
a bodice, very carefully formed by sewing vertical tucks every
edges were so accurately made, as if they had been machinery sewn. The other
element left from the original dress were the sleeves also carefully completed, with
traces of fraying on the lining edges. The bottom part of the dress had been fixed
to the bodice by the means of loose stitches and the edge had only been ironed.
On textile surface particularly on bottom parts, numerous stains of dirt coming
from the time of using them, were identified. It caused weakening textile fibres
and softening the weave.
The garments made of new fabrics specially for the burial ceremony state
a separate category. Within this groups we can distinguish the gowns sewn accord¬
ing to the latest trends of fashion, but also the ones which were not characterized
by any details indicating their time of origin. The first group contained solely
garment sets: szustokors with pants (cat.
of dresses made generally of plain front with rectangular sleeves sewn on to it
(cat.
Szustokors had been sewn according to the current fashion from the 2nd half
of 17th century. These garments are characterized by amazing care of the details;
first of all embroidered button-holes and grand haberdashery buttons. The main
seams are rather careless in comparison with precise holes. Three of the szus¬
tokors had no backs (cat.
that group of garment was impossible. Therefore, the exceptional precision in de¬
tails, while sewing the clothes, designed only for one occasion (because we can call
that way the garments, made specially for grave deposition), is astonishing. Only
one pair of trousers from that collection is questionable (cat.
have been used earlier (some traces are indicative of it). These are the framings
at hooks sewn on the pants belt, which could have served to fasten up the front
flap. However, the szustokor which makes a suit together with those pants (cat.
№ 7),
category. Next evidence for such interpretation can be the usage of different silk
textiles ( szustokor , pants). They are very similar at a glance
winding beautifully but after careful examination we can distinguish two separate
textiles, which is confirmed by weave density analysis.
The three robes from the group of gowns designed for burial ceremony (cat.
№ 10, 11,12)
form; different in size rectangular pieces of fabrics had been sewn together. The
plastic form of the dresses had been obtained by folding the textile in its upper
parts or forming two or three folds up from the level of low-cut neck. Each of
the robes was individually embellished. Those were: a small collar ornamented
with spread embroidery made of tape (cat.
Whereas the fourth
(cat.
joined with stylized twigs that any additional decorative elements were absolutely
unnecessary.
226__________
The single
reminding of a long night-gown (cat.
ticular care in that case; sleeves with wristbands profiled and the front part of
the gown at a whole length decorated with haberdashery buttons. That gown was
similar to night-dresses used in the 16th and the 17th centuries. The defunct laid on
a catafalque had to create an impression of a man sleeping-alive, therefore every
possible means had been applied to make him look as if he was alive.
It should be remarked that the form of that gown strays away from all men s
garments found in the
ing were exactly complied in.that manner, the date of discussed garment origin,
should be ascertained for the 16th or even the beginnings of the 17th century. In
relation to the garments sets consisting of szustokors and pants, it could have
been made even
another period. Is such a rapid change possible (even in the grave-garment style)
after introducing French style to European markets?
A fragment of garment made of textile ornamented with big vases with flowers
(cat.
could provide premises to identify previous destination and category of garment
was too poor. Basing only on traces left by very loose stitches, very neglectfully
made neck-cut and sleeves, we can suppose that the garment had been made only
for dressing a dead for burial in a grave and with great haste.
We have to emphasize the difference between townsmen and noblemen cos¬
tumes. In
western traditions. Portraits preserved show the guild craftsmen dressed according
to Dutch fashion and some of the mayors following French fashion. The portraits
of representatives of Torun s
townsmen. It was conditioned by the fact of
German origin or Protestant confession connected entirely with western influences.
Adopting and imitating new elements was easier through wide trade contacts both
with the West and the East. Cultures of completely different traditions met here,
some of them, however, were common i.e. predilection for splendour and showing
the domination over the others by demonstrating glamour in clothing or magnifi¬
cent family-church ceremonies. Wearing luxurious clothing and adorning oneselves
with jewels was the easiest way to demonstrate own membership of social
Territories of Poland and Royal Prussia were the areas where fashion developed
in two directions. National attire dominated among the nobles and influenced on
the formation of Pole s individuality-Sarmatian-Catholic. Most generally, this defi¬
nition can be related to tradition attachment, fashion of dressing, shaving heads,
wearing a moustache, manner of behaving, thinking, rejecting foreign influence.
However, such generalizations are not true in fine. Western influences on Polish
society were so intense that the Pole-Sarmatian could, while later, change his na¬
tional dress for a western one. Post-mortal inventories contain notes confirming
possession by one man clothes of both fashions
General statement of predominance of Eastern influence on Polish Eastern
border areas and Western ones on Northern and Western voivodeships is improper
when we discuss simultaneously men and women fashions. We must realize that
female fashion ruled its own rights and had nothing in common with changes
Bibliografia
served in Polish men dress. The most devoted to the national clothing Polish
noble had no impact on the women way of dressing. In one noble home we have
two worlds: Eastern (Polish, Sarmatian) and Western one which co-exist with each
other. These observations are confirmed by portrait images of noble and magnate
families from the 17th and the
all over the country; women were attached to Western fashion, accepting it uncriti¬
cally with all its inconveniences.
The analysis of materials from
religious circles: the townspeople
bles
was noticeable in Toruii s streets or among its
destroy that clear division. For example,
on the portrait made about
Karol
(an outer knees-covering garment, widening from the hips with hardened folds at
the back, buttoned up at the front, close fitting below the waist with long sleeves),
without moustache,· so, it indicates he wore in Western style. In archaeological
material we noticed the fact that one of the youth buried in the Czapski crypt had
worn too large czechman . It can be explained in two ways; he either did not
posses representative Polish dress according to family wishes for such an occasion,
therefore, he had been dressed in somebody else s one, much taller person, or his
wardrobe contained only Western-style clothes.
As a result of comparative studies of all available categories of sources, we
should once more draw attention to the differences in interpretation of particular
sources. Presenting only united analysis, gives us a complete picture of those times
events, therefore, it is very essential to reach the most possible number of them.
Divergences resulting from analysis between archaeological, anthropological and
written sources prove that none of the conditions emerging from studies should be
neglected. Only studies of specialists of various branches give a chance for com¬
plete analysis of the subjects connected with garment manufacturing in
Poland in the 17th and the 18th centuries, and also the possibility of re-constructing
particular life-events of certain people.
Discussing costumological problems one should remember about people de¬
posited into the graves in clothes described above. Is it possible to identify exactly
deceased person (by name or surname) confronting available material and written
sources? There is no doubt as for the matter of three people because there are
the boards placed on excavated coffins. These are mentioned previously: Anna
Maiermandwna (died in
Schilling (died in
excludes any mistake. However, we do not find any information referring to those
burials in available written sources. The deceased persons register from
is regarded as the most reliable source of the Protestant times, where the dead evi¬
dence was carried out alphabetically provided with the year of death of particular
persons. Unfortunately the list does not Include detailed information about the
place of burial: i.e. if it had been within the HVMA Church walls, its cloister or
the cemetery. The lack in the register of those three persons mentioned above is
surprising, because they had certainly been buried in the church and identified on
228___________
the basis of the coffin boards. Why had they not been inserted into the register?
The other source of information on burials in the HVMA Church in
work of A. Semrau
been considered as very precise. They do not contain, however, any notice about
Anna and
written sources of Town Council from
search from
erning are absolutely anonymous for us.
It would seem easier to identify the names of persons buried in the Czapscy
Crypt, built after
ited there. It is known, according to Semrau, that the following persons had been
buried in the Church:
Teodor
trict court
-
1764
ogród
person buried in the Church (the Czapski Crypt) with the special approval of the
Town Council.
The above mentioned names also appear in
nardine
the cemetery and the church by the
The chronicle includes the following persons from the Czapski family:
masz
Józef
that crypt. This implies that the chronicle s
ing. The Czapski Crypt contained
any notes on the coffins it is impossible to state the dates of their deaths. Only
one coffin had the date of death engraved
25—35,169
(cat.
There are five people mentioned in the Chronicle with that date
only one surname
buried under the high altar. Eighteen persons with the same notice
under the high altar appear in the Chronicle. There are not only Czapski among
these names. The conclusion results that the name the Czapski Crypt was used
only commonly but also other people had been buried there: the Piwniccy, Kunie-
wicz,
dia and Joanna Zachariaszowicz, Kruszeński, Simiński, Marianna Sulecka
Mortuomm
burial under the high altar in the crypt. These are notices placed in a newspaper
printed in
next one from
Apart from these, tracing stratigraphy of coffin arrangement in the crypt, analysing
anthropological material and considering information about the last burial in the
crypt in
Brygida Zielińska
Bibliografia
remains deposited in the crypt and notices in the Chronicle, we observe the differ¬
ences in a number of women and men. Archaeological and anthropological studies
indicate that
register, however, shows predominance of men and distinct deficiency of women.
It is not known where these differences result from. We can only suppose that
mistakes in registration had occurred. Since the name of Jdzef Czapski had been
missing, the mistakes relating to other people could have been made. Considering
all sources categories, we can notice that written sources do not comprehensively
render entire reality found under the church floor. It should be pointed out that
among them essential differences occur, which are not always logically explicable.
It can be presumed that the dead register in the Chronicle was not completed
currently.
Trans, by
|
| adam_txt |
Spis treści
Od
Ubiór w
Historia badań archeologicznych w kościele WNMP w Toruniu
Kościół WNMP jako nekropola mieszczan i szlachty
Pompa funebris
Historia jedwabiu i tkanin jedwabnych
Charakterystyka reliktów szat
Moda XVI-XVIII
Kogo pochowano w kościele?
Toruń miastem różnych kultur
Katalog
Wykaz skrótów
Słownik
Wykaz ikonografii.
Bibliografia
Źródła pisane i drukowane
Literatura
Spis ilustracji
List of illustrations.
Abbildungsverzeichnis. 215
Townsmen and noblemen garments from the
in the light of archaeological studies conducted in the Holy Virgin
Mary Assumption Church in
Die
Jahrhundert auf Grund von archäologischen Forschungen,
durchgeführt in der Marienkirche in
Zusammenfassung.230
Contents
From the author
Clothes in the 16th
History of archaeological studies in the Holy Virgin Mary Assumption
Church in
The HVMA Church as a necropolis of gentry and townsmen
The funebris pump
The history of silk and silk textile
The characteristics of the gowns' relicts
Fashion of the 16th
Who was buried in the Church?
Toruň
The catalogue
Dictionary
Iconography index
Bibliography
Written and printed sources
Literature
List of illustrations
Summary
Zusammenfassung.230
Inhaltsverzeichnis
Von der Autorin. 9
Kleidung im 16.-18. Jahrhundert - Stand der Forschung. 11
Die Geschichte der archäologischen Forschungen
in der Marienkirche in
Die Marienkirche als Begräbnisstätte des Bürgertums
und der Adligen. 22
Pompa Funebris
Die Geschichte der Seide und der Seidengewebe. 36
Die Charakteristik, der Kleidungsreste. 48
Mode im 16.—18. Jahrhundert
Wer wurde in der Kirche begraben?. 102
Thorn
Katalog. 111
Wörterbuch. 185
Verzeichnis der Ikonographie. 187
Literaturverzeichnis. 189
Geschriebene und gedruckte Quellen. 189
Literatur. 191
Abbildungsverzeichnis. 203
Summary
Zusammenfassung. 230
Townsmen and noblemen garments from the
in the light of archaeological studies conducted in the holy virgin
Mary Assumption Church in
Summary
Problems connected with fashion in particular historical 'times have always
raised various emotions in societies: envy, competition in wealth demonstration. It
has always been noticeable until today in everyday life, state ceremonies, family
festivities and other social meetings. This phenomenon was also expressed dur¬
ing funeral ceremonies. In spite of its serious and sad character the fact of funeral
was an occasion for showing off with the family wealth, paying more honour to
the deceased person and marking the high standard of life. One of the points of
such a ceremony was preparing the body of the deceased for burying; dressing it
in clothes and jewellery as rich as possible. Archaeological studies in The Holy
Virgin Assumption Church in
elements of burial equipment, including silk gowns. The analysis of the obtained
garment relics enabled the comprehensive elaboration on technological problems
of costumology related to silk textile manufacturing.
Archaeological studies inside the church started in
installation works. They were carried on in the sacristy, presbytery and in one
part of the church nave. The graves were spotted in three trenches (Fig. Ill) lo¬
cated in the presbytery and the nave. A brick chamber of grave crypt was found
in the trench I, situated in the middle part of presbytery. It contained
placed in layers in
with numerous metal fittings, upholstered with beautiful silks inside. Most of the
skeletons preserved relics of clothes. The trenches II and III contained numerous
skeletons and dried bones concentration. The analysis of the grave equipment
from particular trenches including the coffin boards and coat of arms cartouches as
well as the fact of co.nsiderable depth of skeletons deposition
disturbances in burial order in the last two trenches. It was proved that the burials
of Anna
situated above the coffin of Thobiasz Schilling from
that the burials from the presbytery from the Protestant times of the church were
removed to the common graves in the nave to enable building a brick grave crypt
for later (from
The relics of excavated gowns were conserved and afterwards reconstructed.
The analysis included
of silk gloves. During conservation works attempts were made to define the kind
of textiles destruction
ones originated during deposition underground in the crypt and in soil graves.
222
Each
fibres, the structure of weave and the density of textile were also completed. The
particular attention was directed to the clothes' cutting, way of fashioning and
decorating them. We are able to recognize the clothes worn during life, the gowns
adjusted as grave gowns i.e. the clothes remade from earlier worn and also the
gown designed only for the grave. Archaeological studies carried out in crypts and
soil graves contribute much to material culture history and first of all to the history
of clothing, providing new information about grave gowns sewn with destination
for the last way of deceased person. Written sources do not inform us in any case
about burying the dead in clothes consisting only of the front part and the sleeves,
while such cases were reported in
According to the rules of
of a deceased person should have been dressed in a white ample shirt or wrapped
in a shroud. The dead persons' families tried to omit those rules of modesty in
many ways.
broke all the rules connected with burial laws from
to say if the buried persons represented the social group subjected to those rules
of modesty and if their families were charged subsequently for disobedience by
"vet" courts (town council courts for cases of trespassing local regulations), because
the documentation concerning that institution activities has still been waiting for
detailed source analysis. The burial in church itself indicates the high position in
social hierarchy.
During particular stages of analytic works
were used. The portraits of secular representatives, epitaphs and coffin portraits
showed in the Baroque period variety of social groups (nobles, magnates, kings)
dressed in Polish national garments or the ones in western fashion. The icono-
graphical material enabled to trace the changes in Polish style. It showed the man¬
ner of wearing clothes and additions. The written sources inform us about the no¬
menclature of those clothes, their colours and a wide range of ornamentations used
to embellish them. In testaments which were drawn with daily dates it is possible
to trace the appearance of the new types of clothing and their spread out in usage
in particular area. In inventories we find confirmation on the subject of organiza¬
tion and the costs of funerals, which were in accordance with wealth and social
status of a buried person. In case of deceased merchants and craftsmen registers of
commodities usually evaluated, had been additionally made. We learn from them
about the types of sold textiles and luxurious additions or semi-products necessary
for their making. Considering the collection of clothes found in HVMA Church
in
textiles and elaborate forms of clothing testify wide contacts of
and Kuiavian nobles with western and eastern countries as well.
The Torunian garments were sewn of homogenous and ornamented textiles.
The uniformed ones included mainly linings of various qualities manufactured in
1/1
geometric elements, which in many cases were also used simultaneously in one
composition. The harmony of particular details' proportions and the elegance of
drawing had an impact on beauty of ornamental subjects used for textile produc¬
tion. The motifs adopted from the floral realm had been stylized or presented
Townsmen and noblemen garments from the
in natural manner, composing usually entanglement of curved or roundly shaped
lines. Tracing the similarities in motifs and their styles indicates the main manu¬
facturers of Torunian textiles, which had been weaver shops in Italy and France.
It should be noticed, at the same time, that in many cases anonymous craftsmen
had chosen single-handed ornamental patterns. It could have happened that some
of them were designed simultaneously in independent centers. Pointing out the
place of textile origin is difficult and even impossible, because from the beginning
of
textiles. Besides, the discussed textiles, were not woven on a special order but
in mass production and in that scope the differences are imperceptible. Discuss¬
ing particular categories of silk textiles it is difficult to precise their dates basing
only on ornamentation and weaving technique. It should be noticed that various
weaving techniques have been known for hundreds or even thousands of years;
only some of them have been more popular in particular periods than the others.
The ornamental-pattern compositions also are not any premise for precise dating,
because some of decorative systems coexist with each other in various historical
periods. The main problem refers to the fabrics with plain geometrical pattern,
on which we do not find information in professional literature, because they are
not a dating element, and except this, features characterizing particular periods
in textile history, have not been described on the basis of such simple composi¬
tions. Whereas plain, homogenous textiles have been constantly present in mate¬
rial culture and do not constitute any basis for exact dating due to their entire
homogeneity.
Archaeological and historical studies give us an opportunity for a wider look
at the problem. Two stages are outlined in the HVMA Church: The Protestant
and the Catholic one. Textiles from which the following clothes had been sewn,
include the Protestant period: men's long grave-gown (cat.
2),
complete set "szustokor" and pants (cat.
children's grave-gowns (cat.
lows: garments of "kontusz" style
№ 17),
(cat.
- 1724 -
the textiles from the second unit could have been manufactured before that date,
however, it is inadvisable to add them more time extend, than approx.
while the textiles of the first unit can be contained within the time-limit of up to
200
half of the 16th century. Written sources confirm burials of dead persons under the
shrine's floor during all that time (A. Semrau
als discovered are during the archaeological researches are anonymous, therefore
the death's annual
system of burials becomes a further obstacle. Considering all reservations men¬
tioned above, it is not possible to distinguish precisely the chronology of singular
textiles. However, it should be pointed out, that the fabrics from the Protestant
period adjust entirely to the style of the 16th and the 17th centuries, while the tex¬
tiles from the Catholic burials are placed in the decorative style from the turn of
the
224
The garments excavated in the Church can generally be defined as grave-gar¬
ments, because all had got to the grave with dead persons. Nevertheless, there are
differences between them. We recognize among the garments those ones worn
during deceased person life-time, garments adapted for burial clothes i.e.
clothes remade from worn previously, finally the clothes sewn exclusively to the
grave deposit. It could seem that in the case of garments considered hereby this
division should be clearly readable and should not add the explorer more doubts
concerning classification of those particular garments' groups. Various kinds of self-
decomposition and destruction, which occur during deposition in soil or crypt,
however, obliterate differences between garments. Because of that the analysis of
each detail of the remains of grave-clothes is essential for their adequate identifi¬
cation. Estimation of a textile disintegration form (ornament's obliteration, frayed
collars, cuffs, wristbands, repairs made during clothes' wearing time
with another material, darns and the like). Very precise analysis of stitches made (if
possible in every part of an item), fixity of fastening attachments, statement of gar¬
ment's back part existence, accuracy of details' fashion and the manner of finishing
them up, also provide information on that subject. It is possible to undertake effort
of classifying apart groups of grave-garments, basing only on such observations.
The garments worn during a life-time include men's clothes in "kontusz" fash¬
ion (cat.
grave-crypt built after
one case a defunct person was dressed in the garment, which he could not have
worn during his life, because the garment of "kontusz" fashion (cat.
too large for him, so that while using he would have had serious difficulties with
moving and in such wearing one ought not to have appeared in elegant and stately
manner, though. A man approx.
above, while it would be suitable for a man of stately appearance
174
usage. Hereby the garment with cubic ornament (cat.
out and torn as a result of terrestrial using. Only its top part resisted destruction
(however, remained in a very bad condition). A small cubic ornament on the textile
surface of that garment was readable in a little percentage. It was entirely rubbed
out in some parts, so that the textile looked like homogenous one.
Belts as well had been getting into the graves after very intense period of us¬
ing. Frays along the line of the belts' fold in every
belts, lined with a cut fragment of band, confirm that. The grave garments were
decorated only with halves of belts, because despite considerable abrasions, they
still represented a particularly precious article.
The next two garments (cat.
lars, wristbands and at lower rims as well
threads of weft or warp in textiles were usually frayed and the remained fragments
had loose weave.
Dresses worn during life-time and remodelled into grave gowns were women's
dresses (cat.
two dresses (cat.
purposes were the sleeves, which had been sewn very carefully (small stitches be¬
hind a needle) and precisely completed. Fronts of those dresses had been made of
Townsmen and noblemen garments from the
rectangular pieces of fabrics and draped on bodies of dead women. Loose stitch or
brown pins had been used to fasten particular details. In that case no attention had
been paid to cut the back. The rims of the dresses had been placed in such a way
to make an impression that the person had been dressed in a complete gown.
The third dress with palm ornamentation (cat.
a bodice, very carefully formed by sewing vertical tucks every
edges were so accurately made, as if they had been machinery sewn. The other
element left from the original dress were the sleeves also carefully completed, with
traces of fraying on the lining edges. The bottom part of the dress had been fixed
to the bodice by the means of loose stitches and the edge had only been ironed.
On textile surface particularly on bottom parts, numerous stains of dirt coming
from the time of using them, were identified. It caused weakening textile fibres
and softening the weave.
The garments made of new fabrics specially for the burial ceremony state
a separate category. Within this groups we can distinguish the gowns sewn accord¬
ing to the latest trends of fashion, but also the ones which were not characterized
by any details indicating their time of origin. The first group contained solely
garment sets: "szustokors" with pants (cat.
of dresses made generally of plain front with rectangular sleeves sewn on to it
(cat.
"Szustokors" had been sewn according to the current fashion from the 2nd half
of 17th century. These garments are characterized by amazing care of the details;
first of all embroidered button-holes and grand haberdashery buttons. The main
seams are rather careless in comparison with precise holes. Three of the "szus¬
tokors" had no backs (cat.
that group of garment was impossible. Therefore, the exceptional precision in de¬
tails, while sewing the clothes, designed only for one occasion (because we can call
that way the garments, made specially for grave deposition), is astonishing. Only
one pair of trousers from that collection is questionable (cat.
have been used earlier (some traces are indicative of it). These are the framings
at hooks sewn on the pants' belt, which could have served to fasten up the front
flap. However, the "szustokor" which makes a suit together with those pants (cat.
№ 7),
category. Next evidence for such interpretation can be the usage of different silk
textiles ("szustokor", pants). They are very similar at a glance
winding beautifully but after careful examination we can distinguish two separate
textiles, which is confirmed by weave density analysis.
The three robes from the group of gowns designed for burial ceremony (cat.
№ 10, 11,12)
form; different in size rectangular pieces of fabrics had been sewn together. The
plastic form of the dresses had been obtained by folding the textile in its upper
parts or forming two or three folds up from the level of low-cut neck. Each of
the robes was individually embellished. Those were: a small collar ornamented
with spread embroidery made of tape (cat.
Whereas the fourth
(cat.
joined with stylized twigs that any additional decorative elements were absolutely
unnecessary.
226_
The single
reminding of a long night-gown (cat.
ticular care in that case; sleeves with wristbands profiled and the front part of
the gown at a whole length decorated with haberdashery buttons. That gown was
similar to night-dresses used in the 16th and the 17th centuries. The defunct laid on
a catafalque had to create an impression of a man sleeping-alive, therefore every
possible means had been applied to make him look as if he was alive.
It should be remarked that the form of that gown strays away from all men's
garments found in the
ing were exactly complied in.that manner, the date of discussed garment origin,
should be ascertained for the 16th or even the beginnings of the 17th century. In
relation to the garments' sets consisting of "szustokors" and pants, it could have
been made even
another period. Is such a rapid change possible (even in the grave-garment style)
after introducing French style to European markets?
A fragment of garment made of textile ornamented with big vases with flowers
(cat.
could provide premises to identify previous destination and category of garment
was too poor. Basing only on traces left by very loose stitches, very neglectfully
made neck-cut and sleeves, we can suppose that the garment had been made only
for dressing a dead for burial in a grave and with great haste.
We have to emphasize the difference between townsmen and noblemen cos¬
tumes. In
western traditions. Portraits preserved show the guild craftsmen dressed according
to Dutch fashion and some of the mayors following French fashion. The portraits
of representatives of Torun's
townsmen. It was conditioned by the fact of
German origin or Protestant confession connected entirely with western influences.
Adopting and imitating new elements was easier through wide trade contacts both
with the West and the East. Cultures of completely different traditions met here,
some of them, however, were common i.e. predilection for splendour and showing
the domination over the others by demonstrating glamour in clothing or magnifi¬
cent family-church ceremonies. Wearing luxurious clothing and adorning oneselves
with jewels was the easiest way to demonstrate own membership of social
Territories of Poland and Royal Prussia were the areas where fashion developed
in two directions. National attire dominated among the nobles and influenced on
the formation of Pole's individuality-Sarmatian-Catholic. Most generally, this defi¬
nition can be related to tradition attachment, fashion of dressing, shaving heads,
wearing a moustache, manner of behaving, thinking, rejecting foreign influence.
However, such generalizations are not true in fine. Western influences on Polish
society were so intense that the Pole-Sarmatian could, while later, change his na¬
tional dress for a western one. Post-mortal inventories contain notes confirming
possession by one man clothes of both fashions
General statement of predominance of Eastern influence on Polish Eastern
border areas and Western ones on Northern and Western voivodeships is improper
when we discuss simultaneously men and women fashions. We must realize that
female fashion ruled its own rights and had nothing in common with changes
Bibliografia
served in Polish men dress. The most devoted to the national clothing Polish
noble had no impact on the women way of dressing. In one noble home we have
two worlds: Eastern (Polish, Sarmatian) and Western one which co-exist with each
other. These observations are confirmed by portrait images of noble and magnate
families from the 17th and the
all over the country; women were attached to Western fashion, accepting it uncriti¬
cally with all its inconveniences.
The analysis of materials from
religious circles: the townspeople
bles
was noticeable in Toruii's streets or among its
destroy that clear division. For example,
on the portrait made about
Karol
(an outer knees-covering garment, widening from the hips with hardened folds at
the back, buttoned up at the front, close fitting below the waist with long sleeves),
without moustache,· so, it indicates he wore in Western style. In archaeological
material we noticed the fact that one of the youth buried in the Czapski crypt had
worn too large "czechman". It can be explained in two ways; he either did not
posses representative Polish dress according to family wishes for such an occasion,
therefore, he had been dressed in somebody else's one, much taller person, or his
wardrobe contained only Western-style clothes.
As a result of comparative studies of all available categories of sources, we
should once more draw attention to the differences in interpretation of particular
sources. Presenting only united analysis, gives us a complete picture of those times
events, therefore, it is very essential to reach the most possible number of them.
Divergences resulting from analysis between archaeological, anthropological and
written sources prove that none of the conditions emerging from studies should be
neglected. Only studies of specialists of various branches give a chance for com¬
plete analysis of the subjects connected with garment manufacturing in
Poland in the 17th and the 18th centuries, and also the possibility of re-constructing
particular life-events of certain people.
Discussing costumological problems one should remember about people de¬
posited into the graves in clothes described above. Is it possible to identify exactly
deceased person (by name or surname) confronting available material and written
sources? There is no doubt as for the matter of three people because there are
the boards placed on excavated coffins. These are mentioned previously: Anna
Maiermandwna (died in
Schilling (died in
excludes any mistake. However, we do not find any information referring to those
burials in available written sources. The deceased persons register from
is regarded as the most reliable source of the Protestant times, where the dead evi¬
dence was carried out alphabetically provided with the year of death of particular
persons. Unfortunately the list does not Include detailed information about the
place of burial: i.e. if it had been within the HVMA Church walls, its cloister or
the cemetery. The lack in the register of those three persons mentioned above is
surprising, because they had certainly been buried in the church and identified on
228_
the basis of the coffin boards. Why had they not been inserted into the register?
The other source of information on burials in the HVMA Church in
work of A. Semrau
been considered as very precise. They do not contain, however, any notice about
Anna and
written sources of Town Council from
search from
erning are absolutely anonymous for us.
It would seem easier to identify the names of persons buried in the Czapscy
Crypt, built after
ited there. It is known, according to Semrau, that the following persons had been
buried in the Church:
Teodor
trict court
-
1764
ogród
person buried in the Church (the Czapski Crypt) with the special approval of the
Town Council.
The above mentioned names also appear in
nardine
the cemetery and the church by the
The chronicle includes the following persons from the Czapski family:
masz
Józef
that crypt. This implies that the chronicle's
ing. The Czapski Crypt contained
any notes on the coffins it is impossible to state the dates of their deaths. Only
one coffin had the date of death engraved
25—35,169
(cat.
There are five people mentioned in the Chronicle with that date
only one surname
buried under the high altar. Eighteen persons with the same notice
under the high altar" appear in the Chronicle. There are not only Czapski among
these names. The conclusion results that the name "the Czapski Crypt" was used
only commonly but also other people had been buried there: the Piwniccy, Kunie-
wicz,
dia and Joanna Zachariaszowicz, Kruszeński, Simiński, Marianna Sulecka
Mortuomm
burial under the high altar in 'the crypt. These are notices placed in a newspaper
printed in
next one from
Apart from these, tracing stratigraphy of coffin arrangement in the crypt, analysing
anthropological material and considering information about the last burial in the
crypt in
Brygida Zielińska
Bibliografia
remains deposited in the crypt and notices in the Chronicle, we observe the differ¬
ences in a number of women and men. Archaeological and anthropological studies
indicate that
register, however, shows predominance of men and distinct deficiency of women.
It is not known where these differences result from. We can only suppose that
mistakes in registration had occurred. Since the name of Jdzef Czapski had been
missing, the mistakes relating to other people could have been made. Considering
all sources' categories, we can notice that written sources do not comprehensively
render entire reality found under the church floor. It should be pointed out that
among them essential differences occur, which are not always logically explicable.
It can be presumed that the dead register in the Chronicle was not completed
currently.
Trans, by |
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| any_adam_object_boolean | 1 |
| author | Grupa, Małgorzata 1958- |
| author_GND | (DE-588)1042955891 |
| author_facet | Grupa, Małgorzata 1958- |
| author_role | aut |
| author_sort | Grupa, Małgorzata 1958- |
| author_variant | m g mg |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV021719492 |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)69448313 (DE-599)BVBBV021719492 |
| edition | Wyd. 1. |
| era | Geschichte 1500-1800 gnd Geschichte 1600-1750 gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 1500-1800 Geschichte 1600-1750 |
| format | Book |
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| geographic | Toruń (Polska) - Kościół Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Maryi Panny jhpk Toruń (DE-588)2024611-0 gnd Polen (DE-588)4046496-9 gnd Sankt Marien Toruń (DE-588)1137395486 gnd |
| geographic_facet | Toruń (Polska) - Kościół Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Maryi Panny Toruń Polen Sankt Marien Toruń |
| id | DE-604.BV021719492 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| index_date | 2024-07-02T15:22:52Z |
| indexdate | 2024-07-09T20:42:27Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 8323118965 |
| language | Polish |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-014933177 |
| oclc_num | 69448313 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | DE-12 |
| owner_facet | DE-12 |
| physical | 238 S. Ill. |
| publishDate | 2005 |
| publishDateSearch | 2005 |
| publishDateSort | 2005 |
| publisher | Wydawn. Uniw. Mikołaja Kopernika |
| record_format | marc |
| spelling | Grupa, Małgorzata 1958- Verfasser (DE-588)1042955891 aut Ubiór mieszczan i szlachty z XVI-XVIII wieku z kościoła p. w. Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Marii Panny w Toruniu Małgorzata Grupa Wyd. 1. Toruń Wydawn. Uniw. Mikołaja Kopernika 2005 238 S. Ill. txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Zsfassung in dt. u. engl. Sprache u.d.T.: Die Kleidung des Bürgertums und der Adligen im 16.-18 Jahrhundert auf Grund von archäologischen Forschungen, durchgeführt in der Marienkirche in Thorn, Polen Geschichte 1500-1800 gnd rswk-swf Geschichte 1600-1750 gnd rswk-swf Artefakty (archeologia) - Polska - Toruń jhpk Mieszczaństwo - strój - Polska - Toruń - 1500-1800 jhpk Obrzędy i ceremonie pogrzebowe - Polska - Toruń - 1500-1800 jhpk Szlachta - strój - Polska - Toruń - 1500-1800 jhpk Ausgrabung (DE-588)4129464-6 gnd rswk-swf Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 gnd rswk-swf Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd rswk-swf Funde (DE-588)4071507-3 gnd rswk-swf Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd rswk-swf Toruń (Polska) - Kościół Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Maryi Panny jhpk Toruń (DE-588)2024611-0 gnd rswk-swf Polen (DE-588)4046496-9 gnd rswk-swf Sankt Marien Toruń (DE-588)1137395486 gnd rswk-swf Sankt Marien Toruń (DE-588)1137395486 g Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 s Geschichte 1500-1800 z Ausgrabung (DE-588)4129464-6 s Funde (DE-588)4071507-3 s DE-604 Polen (DE-588)4046496-9 g Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 s Geschichte 1600-1750 z 1\p DE-604 Toruń (DE-588)2024611-0 g Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 s 2\p DE-604 Digitalisierung BSBMuenchen application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=014933177&sequence=000003&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis Digitalisierung BSB Muenchen application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=014933177&sequence=000004&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Abstract 1\p cgwrk 20201028 DE-101 https://d-nb.info/provenance/plan#cgwrk 2\p cgwrk 20201028 DE-101 https://d-nb.info/provenance/plan#cgwrk |
| spellingShingle | Grupa, Małgorzata 1958- Ubiór mieszczan i szlachty z XVI-XVIII wieku z kościoła p. w. Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Marii Panny w Toruniu Artefakty (archeologia) - Polska - Toruń jhpk Mieszczaństwo - strój - Polska - Toruń - 1500-1800 jhpk Obrzędy i ceremonie pogrzebowe - Polska - Toruń - 1500-1800 jhpk Szlachta - strój - Polska - Toruń - 1500-1800 jhpk Ausgrabung (DE-588)4129464-6 gnd Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 gnd Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd Funde (DE-588)4071507-3 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4129464-6 (DE-588)4059615-1 (DE-588)4031011-5 (DE-588)4071507-3 (DE-588)4039792-0 (DE-588)2024611-0 (DE-588)4046496-9 (DE-588)1137395486 |
| title | Ubiór mieszczan i szlachty z XVI-XVIII wieku z kościoła p. w. Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Marii Panny w Toruniu |
| title_auth | Ubiór mieszczan i szlachty z XVI-XVIII wieku z kościoła p. w. Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Marii Panny w Toruniu |
| title_exact_search | Ubiór mieszczan i szlachty z XVI-XVIII wieku z kościoła p. w. Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Marii Panny w Toruniu |
| title_exact_search_txtP | Ubiór mieszczan i szlachty z XVI-XVIII wieku z kościoła p. w. Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Marii Panny w Toruniu |
| title_full | Ubiór mieszczan i szlachty z XVI-XVIII wieku z kościoła p. w. Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Marii Panny w Toruniu Małgorzata Grupa |
| title_fullStr | Ubiór mieszczan i szlachty z XVI-XVIII wieku z kościoła p. w. Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Marii Panny w Toruniu Małgorzata Grupa |
| title_full_unstemmed | Ubiór mieszczan i szlachty z XVI-XVIII wieku z kościoła p. w. Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Marii Panny w Toruniu Małgorzata Grupa |
| title_short | Ubiór mieszczan i szlachty z XVI-XVIII wieku z kościoła p. w. Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Marii Panny w Toruniu |
| title_sort | ubior mieszczan i szlachty z xvi xviii wieku z kosciola p w wniebowziecia najswietszej marii panny w toruniu |
| topic | Artefakty (archeologia) - Polska - Toruń jhpk Mieszczaństwo - strój - Polska - Toruń - 1500-1800 jhpk Obrzędy i ceremonie pogrzebowe - Polska - Toruń - 1500-1800 jhpk Szlachta - strój - Polska - Toruń - 1500-1800 jhpk Ausgrabung (DE-588)4129464-6 gnd Textilien (DE-588)4059615-1 gnd Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd Funde (DE-588)4071507-3 gnd Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd |
| topic_facet | Artefakty (archeologia) - Polska - Toruń Mieszczaństwo - strój - Polska - Toruń - 1500-1800 Obrzędy i ceremonie pogrzebowe - Polska - Toruń - 1500-1800 Szlachta - strój - Polska - Toruń - 1500-1800 Ausgrabung Textilien Kleidung Funde Mode Toruń (Polska) - Kościół Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Maryi Panny Toruń Polen Sankt Marien Toruń |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=014933177&sequence=000003&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=014933177&sequence=000004&line_number=0002&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
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