Seastate and tides:
Saved in:
| Main Author: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Book |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
London
Stanford Maritime
1977
|
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Physical Description: | 84 S. Ill., graph.Darst. |
| ISBN: | 0540072672 |
Staff View
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Record in the Search Index
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| adam_text | Titel: Seastate and tides
Autor: Duxbury, Kenneth
Jahr: 1977
CONTENTS
CHAPTER 1. Wind and water !
What is a sea wave? Definitions. Generation and growth of a
wave. Conditions governing maximum size. Sea and swell.
Effect of convergence of swells. Estimating probable wave
height from windspeed. Measuring height of a wave at sea.
Effect of swell on sea. Estimating an originating windspeed
from the period of swell.
CHAPTER 2. Waves and the land 16
Water movement within the wave form. Trochoid and
sinusoidal wave forms. Celerity of a wave in deep water. Effect
of shallowing water. Refraction of swell. Result of refraction
in bays, beaches and on headlands. The breaking wave. Wave
of translation. Energy content of a wave. Release of energy
%°™? a Ø}}Ó breaking wave. Geysers and bores. Examples of
thrust developed by breaking waves. Reaction of waves crossing
sandbars and shoals. Rip channels. Waves against deepwater
chffs. Waves meeting a current or tidal stream. Example of
an estuary mouth. Off a headland: races and Overfalls .
Tsunamis.
CHAPTER 3. Currents in the oceans 44
Causes of the major currents. Climatic influence. Comparison
of surface currents with wind circulation. Gyres. The Coriolis
effect. Relationship of biological content of oceans with major
current patterns. Disturbances within the currents. The
undercurrents. Circulation of the deep cold layers. Method of
distinguishing age of surface and deep water.
CHAPTER 4. Tides 59
Earth and moon: the heavenly alliance. Influence of gravity.
The tide-generating forces of sun and moon. Tides on a
hypothetical model earth. Effect on tidal response of the land
masses. Pulsing of the ocean beds. Slowing down of earth s
rotation. Slowing down of the moon s rotation. Eventual loss
of the moon from earth. Cause of neap and spring tides.
Resonance factor. Examples in English Channel and Bristol
Channel. Coriolis effect on tidal range.
CHAPTER 5. The moving ocean beds 74
Earth s composition. Continental and oceanic crusts. Mid-
Atlantic ridge. Continental drift. Spreading of ocean floors.
Convectional circulation of earth s mantle. Burial of ocean
crust. Earthquakes and volcanic activity. The saltiness of sea
water.
Appendix 81
Index 83
|
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| dewey-sort | 3551.4 17 |
| dewey-tens | 550 - Earth sciences |
| discipline | Geologie / Paläontologie Geographie |
| format | Book |
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| genre | Dynamische Meereskunde gnd |
| genre_facet | Dynamische Meereskunde |
| id | DE-604.BV003274588 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2024-07-09T15:57:18Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 0540072672 |
| language | English |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-002062520 |
| oclc_num | 4002711 |
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| owner | DE-384 |
| owner_facet | DE-384 |
| physical | 84 S. Ill., graph.Darst. |
| publishDate | 1977 |
| publishDateSearch | 1977 |
| publishDateSort | 1977 |
| publisher | Stanford Maritime |
| record_format | marc |
| spelling | Duxbury, Kenneth Verfasser aut Seastate and tides London Stanford Maritime 1977 84 S. Ill., graph.Darst. txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Ocean currents Ocean waves Tides Dynamische Meereskunde gnd rswk-swf Dynamische Meereskunde f DE-604 HBZ Datenaustausch application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=002062520&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Duxbury, Kenneth Seastate and tides Ocean currents Ocean waves Tides |
| title | Seastate and tides |
| title_auth | Seastate and tides |
| title_exact_search | Seastate and tides |
| title_full | Seastate and tides |
| title_fullStr | Seastate and tides |
| title_full_unstemmed | Seastate and tides |
| title_short | Seastate and tides |
| title_sort | seastate and tides |
| topic | Ocean currents Ocean waves Tides |
| topic_facet | Ocean currents Ocean waves Tides Dynamische Meereskunde |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=002062520&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
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