Dress and personal appearance in Late Antiquity: the clothing of the middle and lower classes
Saved in:
| Main Author: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Thesis Book |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
Leiden ; Boston
Brill
[2018]
|
| Series: | Late antique archaeology. Supplementary series
volume 1 |
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Item Description: | Literaturangaben |
| Physical Description: | XVII, 243 Seiten Illustrationen |
| ISBN: | 9789004343955 |
Staff View
MARC
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| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Dress and personal appearance in Late Antiquity |b the clothing of the middle and lower classes |c by Faith Pennick Morgan |
| 264 | 1 | |a Leiden ; Boston |b Brill |c [2018] | |
| 264 | 4 | |c © 2018 | |
| 300 | |a XVII, 243 Seiten |b Illustrationen | ||
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Record in the Search Index
| _version_ | 1804177818036207616 |
|---|---|
| adam_text | Contents
Foreword ix
List of Illustrations x
List of Abbreviations xvi
Introduction: Methodology and Sources 1
Sources 1
Written Sources 1
Archaeological Sources 3
Art Historical Sources 5
Methodology 6
What Did. the Clothes Look Like? 6
What is the Purpose of the Embellishments on Clothing? 6
How Were the Clothes Made? 7
An Overview of Dress Studies 8
Clothing as Message 9
Object ‘Biography’ 11
Conclusion 13
1 Current Research on Roman Dress 14
Clothing and Personal Adornment 14
The Toga 14
Mantles and Cloaks 14
The Tunic 16
Trousers and Undergarments 17
Belts, Brooches, Bags and Footwear 18
Hats and Headgear 20
Hair and Cosmetics 20
Tattoos, Branding, Mutilation and Other Body Modifications 21
Thematic Studies: An Overview and New Research 22
Textile Production and Dress 22
Regional Variation in Clothing 23
Social Status and Dress 24
Religion and Dress 25
Professional Costumes 26
Colour 26
Conclusion 27
2 Late Antique Society 29
Clothing in Late Antiquity 29
Apotropaism and Clothing: Magical Practice in Late Antiquity 32
Conclusion 36
3 Cultural Values in Clothing: Apotropaic Practices 38
The Evil Eye 38
Knots and Interlace Patterns 39
Coins 42
Pictures on Clothing 44
Apotropaic Use of Colour 50
Apotropaic Words, Signs and Letters on Garments 57
Conclusion 63
VI
CONTENTS
4 The Life of Clothes in Late Antiquity 65
Introduction 65
Tunics 65
Square Tunics: Catalogue Numbers 1-21 65
Short Sleeved Tunics: Catalogue Numbers 22-42 67
Wide Sleeved Tunics: Catalogue Numbers 43~55 68
Tailored Tunics: Catalogue Numbers 56-72 68
Narrow Sleeved Tunics: Catalogue Numbers 73-187 70
Tunic Embellishment and Dating 72
Mantles, Cloaks, Trousers and Accessories 75
Sewing and Making and the Textile Industry 77
Mending, Darning and Patching 80
Cleaning 85
Reuse 88
Child s Blue Wool Tailored Tunic: Whitworth Art Gallery no. T.8549
(Catalogue no. 7/) (figs. 56a-b) 89
Other Examples 91
Hats 91
Other Forms of Reuse 92
Kentrones and the Second-Hand Clothing Trade 94
Conclusion 96
5 Experimental Knowledge of the Wear and Wearing of Garments 98
Methodology 99
Tunics 100
1 Square Tunic: Catalogue no. 5: British Museum
reg.no. 2004,0910.5 100
2 Narrow Sleeved Tunic in Plain Linen, Catalogue no. 106: ktn inv.
no. 476 104
3 Narrow Sleeved Tunic in Red Wool 105
4 Narrow Sleeved Tunic in Blue Wool, Catalogue no. 184; Whitworth
Art Gallery, no. T.8360 108
5 Linen Dalmatic, Catalogue no. 54: Whitworth Art Gallery,
no. T.i995.145 112
6 Child s Red Wool Narrow Sleeved Tunic with Hood, Catalogue
no. 120: Louvre E26525 116
7 Child s Natural Linen Tunic, Catalogue no. n6: Louvre E26248 U7
8 Child s Narrow Sleeved Tunic in Wool, Catalogue no. 187: Whitworth
Art Gallery, no. T.8374 119
9 Child s Tailored Tunic in Red Wool, Catalogue no. 72: Whitworth Art
Gallery, no. T.9885 124
10 Child s Blue Wool Capped Sleeve Tunic, Catalogue no. 38:
Whitworth Art Gallery, no. T.8377 126
11 Child s Sleeveless Linen Tunic with Hood, Catalogue no. 2:
Ashmolean Museum acc. no. ANi888.1109 126
Cloaks 130
1 Adult s Hooded Cloak 130
2 Child s Hooded Cloak 132
3 Hoodless Cloaks 132
Making the Clothes 139
Conclusion 139
CONTENTS
VII
Conclusion 143
Status 144
Religion 144
Profession 144
Ethnicity 145
Embellishments 145
Manufacture 147
Problems and Final Thoughts 148
Catalogue of Tunics in Museums and Archaeological Collections 149
Glossary 167
Clothing Terms 167
Textile Terms 169
Bibliography 173
Ancient Textual Editions and Inscriptions 173
Modem Sources 176
Appendix A 188
A.i Evidence of Mending, Patching, Darning and/or Reused Fabric
on Tunics and Cloaks 188
A.2 Evidence of Mending, Patching, Darning and/or Reused Fabric
on Clothing Fragments 193
A.3 Evidence of Mending, Patching, Darning and/or Reused Fabric
on Hats and Bonnets 199
A4 Evidence of Mending, Patching, Darning and/or Reused Fabric
on Socks and Footwear 202
A.5 Patchworks: Evidence of the Reuse of Fabric 203
A. 6 Evidence of Mending, Patching, Darning and/or Reused Fabric
on Accessories, Toys and Trousers 203
Appendix B: Figured Tapestry Panels from Tunics in the Collection of
Textiles from the Burial Grounds in Egypt, in the V A Museum 205
B. i Wool Tapestry with Figures 205
B.2 Silk Embroideries with Figures 216
B.3 Silk Weavings with Figures 217
Appendix C.i: Apotropiac Elements in Children’s Garments from Museum
Collections and Archaeological Excavations 218
Appendix C.2: Apotropiac Elements in Adult Garments from Museum
Collections and Archaeological Excavations 220
Appendix D: Papyri References to Cloth and Clothing Manufacture 223
D.i Wool and Flax Preparation 223
D.2 Cloth and Clothing Manufacture 223
D.3 Apprenticing Weavers/Tailors 227
D.4 Associations to Do with Cloth and Clothing Manufacture 229
D.5 Mending 229
VIII
CONTENTS
D.6 Other Professions Related to Textile and Clothing Manufacture
and Care 230
D-7 Inventories Including Clothing 230
Appendix E: References to Clothing in Late Antiquity 233
Index 241
|
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| author | Morgan, Faith Pennick 1951- |
| author_GND | (DE-588)1151264709 |
| author_facet | Morgan, Faith Pennick 1951- |
| author_role | aut |
| author_sort | Morgan, Faith Pennick 1951- |
| author_variant | f p m fp fpm |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV044480418 |
| callnumber-first | G - Geography, Anthropology, Recreation |
| callnumber-label | GT560 |
| callnumber-raw | GT560 |
| callnumber-search | GT560 |
| callnumber-sort | GT 3560 |
| callnumber-subject | GT - Manners and Customs |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)1024127576 (DE-599)BVBBV044480418 |
| dewey-full | 391.009182/2 |
| dewey-hundreds | 300 - Social sciences |
| dewey-ones | 391 - Costume and personal appearance |
| dewey-raw | 391.009182/2 |
| dewey-search | 391.009182/2 |
| dewey-sort | 3391.009182 12 |
| dewey-tens | 390 - Customs, etiquette, folklore |
| discipline | Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
| era | Geschichte 200-800 gnd |
| era_facet | Geschichte 200-800 |
| format | Thesis Book |
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| indexdate | 2024-07-10T07:54:07Z |
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| language | English |
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| series | Late antique archaeology. Supplementary series |
| series2 | Late antique archaeology. Supplementary series |
| spelling | Morgan, Faith Pennick 1951- Verfasser (DE-588)1151264709 aut Dress and personal appearance in Late Antiquity the clothing of the middle and lower classes by Faith Pennick Morgan Leiden ; Boston Brill [2018] © 2018 XVII, 243 Seiten Illustrationen txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Late antique archaeology. Supplementary series volume 1 Literaturangaben Dissertation University of Kent 2014 Geschichte 200-800 gnd rswk-swf Funde Geschichte Gesellschaft Clothing and dress Mediterranean Region History Clothing and dress Social aspects Mediterranean Region Beauty, Personal Mediterranean Region History Mittelstand (DE-588)4039713-0 gnd rswk-swf Spätantike (DE-588)4124227-0 gnd rswk-swf Rekonstruktion (DE-588)4136102-7 gnd rswk-swf Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd rswk-swf Funde (DE-588)4071507-3 gnd rswk-swf Unterschicht (DE-588)4062024-4 gnd rswk-swf Mediterranean Region Antiquities Levante (DE-588)4196563-2 gnd rswk-swf (DE-588)4113937-9 Hochschulschrift gnd-content Kleidung (DE-2581)TH000008238 gbd Spätantike (DE-2581)TH000003969 gbd Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 s Funde (DE-588)4071507-3 s Rekonstruktion (DE-588)4136102-7 s Geschichte 200-800 z DE-604 Levante (DE-588)4196563-2 g Mittelstand (DE-588)4039713-0 s Unterschicht (DE-588)4062024-4 s Spätantike (DE-588)4124227-0 s Erscheint auch als Online-Ausgabe 978-90-04-35346-6 Late antique archaeology. Supplementary series volume 1 (DE-604)BV045522597 1 Digitalisierung BSB Muenchen - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=029880625&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Morgan, Faith Pennick 1951- Dress and personal appearance in Late Antiquity the clothing of the middle and lower classes Late antique archaeology. Supplementary series Funde Geschichte Gesellschaft Clothing and dress Mediterranean Region History Clothing and dress Social aspects Mediterranean Region Beauty, Personal Mediterranean Region History Mittelstand (DE-588)4039713-0 gnd Spätantike (DE-588)4124227-0 gnd Rekonstruktion (DE-588)4136102-7 gnd Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd Funde (DE-588)4071507-3 gnd Unterschicht (DE-588)4062024-4 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4039713-0 (DE-588)4124227-0 (DE-588)4136102-7 (DE-588)4031011-5 (DE-588)4071507-3 (DE-588)4062024-4 (DE-588)4196563-2 (DE-588)4113937-9 |
| title | Dress and personal appearance in Late Antiquity the clothing of the middle and lower classes |
| title_auth | Dress and personal appearance in Late Antiquity the clothing of the middle and lower classes |
| title_exact_search | Dress and personal appearance in Late Antiquity the clothing of the middle and lower classes |
| title_full | Dress and personal appearance in Late Antiquity the clothing of the middle and lower classes by Faith Pennick Morgan |
| title_fullStr | Dress and personal appearance in Late Antiquity the clothing of the middle and lower classes by Faith Pennick Morgan |
| title_full_unstemmed | Dress and personal appearance in Late Antiquity the clothing of the middle and lower classes by Faith Pennick Morgan |
| title_short | Dress and personal appearance in Late Antiquity |
| title_sort | dress and personal appearance in late antiquity the clothing of the middle and lower classes |
| title_sub | the clothing of the middle and lower classes |
| topic | Funde Geschichte Gesellschaft Clothing and dress Mediterranean Region History Clothing and dress Social aspects Mediterranean Region Beauty, Personal Mediterranean Region History Mittelstand (DE-588)4039713-0 gnd Spätantike (DE-588)4124227-0 gnd Rekonstruktion (DE-588)4136102-7 gnd Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd Funde (DE-588)4071507-3 gnd Unterschicht (DE-588)4062024-4 gnd |
| topic_facet | Funde Geschichte Gesellschaft Clothing and dress Mediterranean Region History Clothing and dress Social aspects Mediterranean Region Beauty, Personal Mediterranean Region History Mittelstand Spätantike Rekonstruktion Kleidung Unterschicht Mediterranean Region Antiquities Levante Hochschulschrift |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=029880625&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| volume_link | (DE-604)BV045522597 |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT morganfaithpennick dressandpersonalappearanceinlateantiquitytheclothingofthemiddleandlowerclasses |