The chemistry of fragrances from perfumer to consumer (RSC Publishing, 2006)
Previous ed. published: 1999. - Master and use copy. Digital master created according to Benchmark for Faithful Digital Reproductions of Monographs and Serials, Version 1. Digital Library Federation, December 2002
Ever wondered how perfumes are developed? Or why different scents appeal to different people? The Chemistry of Fragrances 2nd Edition offers answers to these questions, providing a fascinating insight into the perfume industry, from the conception of an idea to the finished product. It discusses the technical, artistic and commercial challenges of the perfume industry in an informative and engaging style, with contributions from leading experts in the field. The book begins with a historical introduction and covers all aspects of the development process - from customer brief to producing a fragrance including; * Ingredients acquisition * Ingredient design and manufacture * Design and analysis of fragrance * Sensory aspects including odour perception * Psychological impact of fragrance * Technical challenges * Safety An updated section on the measurement of fragrance discusses the role of senses in marketing consumer products. This book will appeal to anyone with an interest in the perfumery business and includes an extensive bibliography to enable those interested to explore the field further. It also comes complete with a selection of colour illustrations and a fragranced page
Includes bibliographical references (p. [313]-319) and index
Glossary -- 1. The human relationship with fragrance / Linda Harman -- 2. The history of aroma chemistry and perfume / David H. Pybus -- 2.1. Early use of fragrance -- 2.2. The age of chivalry -- 2.3. The age of alchemy -- 2.4. The age of discovery -- 2.5. The age of revolution -- 2.6. The age of empire (nineteenth century) -- 2.6.1. Technique -- 2.6.2. Structured perfumes, and use of synthetics -- 2.6.3. Industrialisation and 'massification' -- 2.7. The age of fashion (twentieth century) -- 3. Perfumery materials of natural origin / Charles Sell -- 3.1. Perfumes and odours in nature -- 3.1.1. Introduction -- 3.1.2. Biosynthesis -- 3.2. Extraction of natural perfume ingredients -- 3.2.1. Expression -- 3.2.2. Distillation -- 3.2.3. Solvent extraction -- 3.3. Adulteration of natural perfume ingredients -- 3.4. From natural to synthetic -- References --
4. Ingredients for the modern perfumery industry / Charles Sell -- 4.1. Economic factors affecting perfume ingredient production -- 4.2. Perfume ingredients derived from terpenoids -- 4.2.1. Introduction -- 4.2.2. Five key terpenoids -- 4.2.3. Feedstocks -- 4.2.4. Pinene pyrolysis -- 4.2.5. Pinane pyrolysis -- 4.2.6. The Carroll reaction -- 4.2.7. The Claisen rearrangement -- 4.2.8. Prenyl chloride -- 4.2.9. The Ene reaction -- 4.2.10. Elegance, a four-step process -- 4.2.11. Hemiterpenoids -- 4.2.12. Acyclic monoterpenoids -- 4.2.13. Cyclic monoterpenes -- 4.2.14. Menthol -- 4.2.15. Bicyclic monoterpenoids -- 4.2.16. Sesquiterpenoids -- 4.2.17. Cedarwood -- 4.2.18. Sandalwood -- 4.2.19. Diterpenoids -- 4.2.20. Ambergris -- 4.2.21. Ionones and related compounds -- 4.3. Musks -- 4.4. Perfume ingredients derived from benzene -- 4.5. Perfume ingredients derived from toluene -- 4.6. Perfume ingredients derived from phenol -- 4.7. Perfume ingredients derived from naphthalene -- 4.8. Perfume ingredients derived from aliphatic materials -- 4.9. Perfume ingredients derived from cyclopentanone -- 4.10. Perfume ingredients derived from dicyclopentadiene -- 4.11. Conclusions -- References --