Naga textiles: design, technique, meaning and effect of a local craft tradition in Northeast India
Saved in:
| Main Author: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Thesis Book |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
Stuttgart
Arnoldsche Art Publ.
2014
|
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | Inhaltstext Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Item Description: | Zusätzliches Online-Angebot unter www.marionwettstein.ch/publications |
| Physical Description: | 368 S. Ill., graph. Darst., Kt. 28 cm Plakat (1 gef. Bl. : überw. Ill.) |
| ISBN: | 9783897904194 |
Staff View
MARC
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| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Naga textiles |b design, technique, meaning and effect of a local craft tradition in Northeast India |c Marion Wettstein |
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| 300 | |a 368 S. |b Ill., graph. Darst., Kt. |c 28 cm |e Plakat (1 gef. Bl. : überw. Ill.) | ||
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| 653 | |a Naga | ||
| 653 | |a Nordostindien | ||
| 653 | |a Kultur | ||
| 653 | |a Textilien | ||
| 653 | |a Nordwestburma | ||
| 653 | |a Tradition | ||
| 653 | |a Stoffmuster | ||
| 653 | |a Mode | ||
| 653 | |a Muster | ||
| 653 | |a Neuzeit | ||
| 653 | |a Kolonialismus | ||
| 653 | |a Monografie | ||
| 653 | |a Marion Wettstein | ||
| 653 | |a Stoffgestaltung | ||
| 653 | |a Design | ||
| 653 | |a ethnisch | ||
| 653 | |a Sprache der Textilien | ||
| 653 | |a Ethnografie | ||
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Record in the Search Index
| _version_ | 1806330158767931392 |
|---|---|
| adam_text |
CONTENTS
1. APPROACHING NAGA TEXTILES: A BRIEF INTRODUCTION - 9
I. GETTING A PICTURE
OF TEXTILE
DESIGN
2. VISUALISING TEXTILES - 20
2.1. ETHNOGRAPHIC DRAWING AS A TOPIC OF VISUAL ANTHROPOLOGY - 20
2.2. VISUAL MEDIA TYPES AND THEIR USEFULNESS - 24
2.3. A CONCEPT OF A VISUAL APPROACH TO DATA COLLECTION, ANALYSIS AND
(RE)PRESENTATION - 31
3. NAGA TEXTILE DESIGN IN COMPARISON - 35
4. CHARACTERISTICS OF AO TEXTILE DESIGN IN DETAIL - 41
II. WEAVING IN HISTORY
5. THE EMBODIMENT OF SKILL AND THE TRANSFORMATION OF TEXTILE TECHNIQUES
IN HISTORY - 54
6. FROM FIBRE TO YARN; FROM MYTHOLOGICAL TO EARLY COLONIAL TIMES - 56
6.1. RAW FIBRES - 59
6.2. SPINNING YARN - 63
6.3. DYEING - 71
7. WEAVING TECHNIQUE SURVIVING COLONIALISM AND THE STRUGGLES FOR
INDEPENDENCE - 76
7.1. WINDING THE WARP - 85
7.2. WEAVING - 96
7.3. FINISHING THE CLOTH AND MAKING APPLICATIONS -105
8. CONTEMPORARY VISIONS OF A FUTURE TEXTILE INDUSTRY - 107
8.1. MARKET CALCULATIONS FROM VARYING PERSPECTIVES - 109
HTTP://D-NB.INFO/1051638712
III. REFLECTING STATUS
AND SOCIAL
STRUCTURE IIS
9. THE RIGHT TO DECORATION - 118
10. SHAWLS FOR RICH MEN ONLY - 122
10.1. FEASTS OF MERIT AND MITHUN SACRIFICES -124
10.2. THE VARIETIES OF MEN'S SHAWLS OF WEALTH - 126
11. SHAWLS NOT ONLY FOR HEAD-HUNTERS - 131
11.1. HEAD-HUNTING - 131
11.2. THE VARIETIES OF MEN'S HEAD-HUNTERS' SHAWLS -136
12. LOINCLOTHS FOR A MAN'S BIOGRAPHY? - 148
13. TEXTILE ACCESSORIES FOR THE BELOVED - 151
14. CLOTH COMBINATIONS FOR DISTINCTING RICH AND POOR WOMEN - 151
14.1. THE VARIETIES OF RICH WOMEN'S CLOTHS - 1S3
14.2. THE VARIETIES OF POOR OR COMMON WOMEN'S CLOTHS - 1SS
15. SKIRTS INDICATING A WOMAN'S CLAN - 159
IS.
1. AO NAGA
CLAN
STRUCTURE
- 160
15.2. SKIRTS, CLAN STRUCTURE, AND LANGUAGE GROUPS ON VILLAGE LEVEL -163
15.3. TYPOLOGY OF WOMAN'S CLAN SKIRTS -171
16. THE MODULAR NATURE OF AO NAGA TEXTILE DESIGN - 179
17. NAGA CODES OF APPEARANCE - 182
17.1.
STATUS AS A CORE CONCEPT OF NAGA CULTURE AND A MAIN CODE OF APPEARANCE
-183
17.2. GENDER AS A BASIC AND COMBINED CODE OF APPEARANCE -190
17.3. TRIBAL IDENTITY AS A COLONIALLY CONSTRUCTED CODE OF APPEARANCE -
19S
17.4. LIFE CYCLE AS A SCARCELY REFLECTED CODE OF APPEARANCE -197
17.5. POLITICS AND RELIGION AS MARGINAL OR 'MISSING' CODES OF APPEARANCE
-198
18. A SIDE-REMARK ON THE MEANING ENCODED IN
NAGA MATERIAL CULTURE AND AESTHETIC PRODUCTION IN GENERAL - 201
COLOUR PENCIL
DRAWINGS OF TRADITIONAL
AO NAGA
TEXTILES 203
AO NAGA MEN'S SHAWLS - 204
AO NAGA MEN'S TEXTILE ACCESSORIES - 214
AO NAGA WOMEN'S STATUS CLOTHS - 218
AO NAGA WOMEN'S CLAN SKIRTS - 231
IV. EMPLOYING EFFECTS 259
19. WHAT PEOPLE DO WITH TEXTILES, AND WHAT TEXTILES DO TO PEOPLE - 262
19.1. THE EFFECTS OF 'AGENCY': INTERFERING CONNOTATIONS OF TERMS - 262
19.2. MESSAGES, MEANINGS, CONTEXTS AND EFFECTS - 263
20. 'TRADITIONAL' TEXTILES - 265
21. CONTEMPORARY WOMEN'S 'DESIGN' SKIRTS AND SHAWLS - 267
21.1. DESIGN FEATURES OF AO WOMEN'S 'MODIFIED TRADITIONAL' AND 'DESIGN'
TEXTILES - 267
21.2. THE RIGHT DRESS FOR THE RIGHT OCCASION - 269
21.3. PRIVATE TEXTILE COLLECTIONS - 271
22. CONTEMPORARY MEN'S 'DESIGN' SHAWLS AND WAISTCOATS - 273
23. LOCAL CATWALK 'FUSION FASHION' AND A COSMOPOLITAN OUTLOOK - 279
23.1. BEAUTY PAGEANTS AND FASHION SHOWS - 279
23.2. AO 'FUSION FASHION' AND THE ROLE OF THE WATSII MUNGDANG - 283
23.3. A COSMOPOLITAN OUTLOOK: ATSU SEKHOSE, ASA KAZINGMEI, AND IMCHA
LMCHEN - 298
24. PERFORMING IDENTITY ROLES - BY WAY OF A CONCLUSION -
307
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 313
LISTS AND
REFERENCES 324
ABBREVIATIONS - 324
LIST OF OBJECT COLLECTIONS WITH NAGA ARTEFACTS - 325
PICTURE CREDITS / LIST OF FIGURES - 326
BIBLIOGRAPHY 328
APPENDICES 344
A: MILLS' CLAN-STRUCTURE TESTED - 344
B: VILLAGES, CLANS AND SKIRTS - 347
C: LIST OF CLAN NAMES TESTED FOR SKIRT TYPES - 354
D: LIST OF SKIRT TYPES TESTED FOR CLAN NAMES AND MARRIAGE-GROUPS IN A
GIVEN VILLAGE - 355
E: NON-TEXTILE AO NAGA ORNAMENTS - 357
DESIGN CHART OF NAGA TEXTILES - (ENCLOSED POSTER)
INDEX
364 |
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| author | Wettstein, Marion 1974- |
| author_GND | (DE-588)1059557754 |
| author_facet | Wettstein, Marion 1974- |
| author_role | aut |
| author_sort | Wettstein, Marion 1974- |
| author_variant | m w mw |
| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV042279238 |
| classification_rvk | LB 94385 LB 94390 LC 11385 LC 11390 LO 88254 |
| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)894727264 (DE-599)DNB1051638712 |
| dewey-full | 746.089954 |
| dewey-hundreds | 700 - The arts |
| dewey-ones | 746 - Textile arts |
| dewey-raw | 746.089954 |
| dewey-search | 746.089954 |
| dewey-sort | 3746.089954 |
| dewey-tens | 740 - Graphic arts and decorative arts |
| discipline | Kunstgeschichte Soziologie Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
| format | Thesis Book |
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| genre | (DE-588)4113937-9 Hochschulschrift gnd-content |
| genre_facet | Hochschulschrift |
| geographic | Nagaland (DE-588)4041129-1 gnd |
| geographic_facet | Nagaland |
| id | DE-604.BV042279238 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2024-08-03T02:04:39Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9783897904194 |
| language | English |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-027716636 |
| oclc_num | 894727264 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | DE-M350 DE-12 DE-188 |
| owner_facet | DE-M350 DE-12 DE-188 |
| physical | 368 S. Ill., graph. Darst., Kt. 28 cm Plakat (1 gef. Bl. : überw. Ill.) |
| publishDate | 2014 |
| publishDateSearch | 2014 |
| publishDateSort | 2014 |
| publisher | Arnoldsche Art Publ. |
| record_format | marc |
| spelling | Wettstein, Marion 1974- Verfasser (DE-588)1059557754 aut Naga textiles design, technique, meaning and effect of a local craft tradition in Northeast India Marion Wettstein Stuttgart Arnoldsche Art Publ. 2014 368 S. Ill., graph. Darst., Kt. 28 cm Plakat (1 gef. Bl. : überw. Ill.) txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Zusätzliches Online-Angebot unter www.marionwettstein.ch/publications Zugl.: Zürich, Univ., Diss., 2011 Naga Volk (DE-588)4041127-8 gnd rswk-swf Geschichte (DE-588)4020517-4 gnd rswk-swf Textilkunst (DE-588)4059624-2 gnd rswk-swf Nagaland (DE-588)4041129-1 gnd rswk-swf Naga Nordostindien Kultur Textilien Nordwestburma Tradition Stoffmuster Mode Muster Neuzeit Kolonialismus Monografie Marion Wettstein Stoffgestaltung Design ethnisch Sprache der Textilien Ethnografie (DE-588)4113937-9 Hochschulschrift gnd-content Naga Volk (DE-588)4041127-8 s Nagaland (DE-588)4041129-1 g Textilkunst (DE-588)4059624-2 s Geschichte (DE-588)4020517-4 s DE-604 X:MVB text/html http://deposit.dnb.de/cgi-bin/dokserv?id=4679549&prov=M&dok_var=1&dok_ext=htm Inhaltstext DNB Datenaustausch application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=027716636&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Wettstein, Marion 1974- Naga textiles design, technique, meaning and effect of a local craft tradition in Northeast India Naga Volk (DE-588)4041127-8 gnd Geschichte (DE-588)4020517-4 gnd Textilkunst (DE-588)4059624-2 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4041127-8 (DE-588)4020517-4 (DE-588)4059624-2 (DE-588)4041129-1 (DE-588)4113937-9 |
| title | Naga textiles design, technique, meaning and effect of a local craft tradition in Northeast India |
| title_auth | Naga textiles design, technique, meaning and effect of a local craft tradition in Northeast India |
| title_exact_search | Naga textiles design, technique, meaning and effect of a local craft tradition in Northeast India |
| title_full | Naga textiles design, technique, meaning and effect of a local craft tradition in Northeast India Marion Wettstein |
| title_fullStr | Naga textiles design, technique, meaning and effect of a local craft tradition in Northeast India Marion Wettstein |
| title_full_unstemmed | Naga textiles design, technique, meaning and effect of a local craft tradition in Northeast India Marion Wettstein |
| title_short | Naga textiles |
| title_sort | naga textiles design technique meaning and effect of a local craft tradition in northeast india |
| title_sub | design, technique, meaning and effect of a local craft tradition in Northeast India |
| topic | Naga Volk (DE-588)4041127-8 gnd Geschichte (DE-588)4020517-4 gnd Textilkunst (DE-588)4059624-2 gnd |
| topic_facet | Naga Volk Geschichte Textilkunst Nagaland Hochschulschrift |
| url | http://deposit.dnb.de/cgi-bin/dokserv?id=4679549&prov=M&dok_var=1&dok_ext=htm http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=027716636&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT wettsteinmarion nagatextilesdesigntechniquemeaningandeffectofalocalcrafttraditioninnortheastindia |