Handbook of natural colorants:
Saved in:
| Format: | Book |
|---|---|
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
Chichester
Wiley
2009
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| Series: | Wiley series in renewable resources
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| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Physical Description: | XXII, 412 S. Ill., graph. Darst. |
| ISBN: | 9780470511992 0470511990 |
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Record in the Search Index
| _version_ | 1804140681877258240 |
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| adam_text | Titel: Handbook of natural colorants
Autor: Bechtold, Thomas
Jahr: 2009
Contents
List of Contributors xv
Series Preface xix
Preface xxi
Part I Historical Aspects 1
1 History of Natural Dyes in the Ancient Mediterranean World 3
Maria J. Melo
1.1 Introduction 3
1.1.1 Ancient Mediterranean World 3
1.1.2 Dyes from Antiquity 4
1.1.3 Unveiling the Secrets of Ancient Dyes with Modern Science 5
1.2 Ancient Reds 6
1.2.1 Anthraquinone Reds 6
1.2.2 Redwoods 8
1.2.3 Flavylium/Anthocyanin Reds 8
1.3 Ancient Blues 10
1.3.1 Indigo Blues 10
1.3.2 Anthocyanin Blues 12
1.4 Ancient Purple (Tyrian Purple) 13
1.5 Ancient Yellows 15
1.5.1 Havonoid Yellows 15
1.5.2 Carotenoid Yellows 17
1.5.3 Chalcone and Aurone Yellows 17
Acknowledgement 17
References 17
vi Contents
2 Colours in Civilizations of the World and Natural Colorants:
History under Tension 21
Dominique Cardon
2.1 Introduction 21
2.2 The Triumph of Mauvein: Synthetic Fulfilment of the
Antique Purplemania 22
2.3 Blue: from Kingly Regional to Globally Democratic 23
2.4 Red and Yellow: from Micro to Macro Scales 24
2.5 What Future for Natural Colorants in the Dawning Era
of Renewable Resources? 25
Acknowledgement 26
References 26
3 History of Natural Dyes in North Africa Egypt 27
Harby Ezzeldeen Ahmed
27
28
28
29
29
30
30
30
31
31
31
31
31
33
33
34
References 36
Part II Regional Aspects of Availability of Plant Sources 37
4 Dye Plants in Europe 39
Andrea Biertumpfel and Giinter Wurl
4.1 Introduction 39
4.2 Potential European Dye Plants 39
4.3 Cultivation of Dye Plants Yesterday and Now 40
4.4 Modern Cultivation Methods for Important European Dye Plants 41
4.4.1 General Facts 41
4.4.2 Blue Dyeing Plants 42
3.1 Introduction
3.2 Natural Dyes in Pharaonic Textiles
3.3 Dyeing Techniques
3.4 Dye Sources
3.4.1 Woad
3.4.2 Indigo
3.4.3 Red
3.4.4 Yellow
3.4.5 Black
3.4.6 Brown
3.4.7 Green
3.4.8 Purple
3.5 Dyeing in Coptic Textiles
3.6 Wool Dyed Fabric with Natural Dye
3.7 Dyes in Islamic Textiles
3.8 Mordants
5.1 Introduction
5.2 Annatto
5.3 Turmeric
5.4 Marigold
5.5 Cochineal and Carmine
Acknowledgements
References
Contents vii
A A3 Red Dyeing Plants 43
4.4.4 Yellow Dyeing Plants 44
4.4.5 Brown Dyeing Plants 46
4.5 Production of Dye Extracts 48
4.6 Relevant Examples for the Application 50
4.7 Conclusions, Discussion and Summary 50
References 51
5 Dyes in South America 53
Veridiana Vera de Rosso and Adriana Zerlotti Mercadante
53
55
57
59
60
62
62
Natural Dyes in Eastern Asia (Vietnam and Neighbouring Countries) 65
Hoang Thi Link
6.1 Introduction 65
6.2 Annatto (Botanical Name Bixa orellana L., Family Bixaceae) 65
6.3 Tea (Botanical Name Camellia sinensis (L.) Kuntze, Family Theaceae) 67
6.4 Umbrella Tree (Botanical Name Terminalia catappa L., Family
Combretaceae) 67
6.5 Diospyros mollis - Mackloeur (Botanical Name Diospyros mollis L.
Griff, Family Ebenaceae) 68
6.6 Indigo (Botanical Name Indigofera L., Family Fabaceae) 68
6.6.1 Indigofera tinctoria L. 68
6.6.2 Indigofera galegoides DC. 69
6.6.3 Strobilanthes cusia (Baphicacanthus) 69
6.7 Henna (kok khan, or khao youak in Laos) (Botanical Name Lawsonia
spinosa L., Family Lythraceae) 69
6.8 Nacre (Botanical Name Khaya senegalensis, Family Meliaceae) 69
6.9 Sappan Wood (Botanical Name Caesalpinia sappan L., Family
Fabaceae) 69
6.10 Sophora japonica Flowers (Botanical Name Sophora japonica L.,
Family Leguminosae) 70
6.11 Turmeric (Botanical Name Curcuma longa L., Family Zingiberaceae) 70
6.12 Sapodilla (Botanical Name Manilkara zapota L. or Achras zapota,
Family Sapotaceae) 70
6.13 Betel (Botanical Name Piper betle L., Family Piperaceae) 71
6.14 Eucalyptus (Botanical Name Eucalyptus, Family Myrtaceae) 71
Contents
6.15 Caesalpinia Yellow (Botanical Name Caesalpinia pulcherrima
L., Family Fabaceae) 71
6.16 Brow-tuber (Botanical Name Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour, Family
Dioscoreaceae) 71
Part III Colorant Production and Properties 73
7 Indigo - Agricultural Aspects 75
Philip John and Luciana Gabriella Angelini
7.1 Introduction 75
7.2 Isatis 76
7.2.1 Introduction 76
7.2.2 Agronomy 77
7.3 Persicaria (Polygonum) 92
7.3.1 Introduction 92
7.3.2 Agronomy 93
7.4 Indigofera 101
Acknowledgements 103
References 103
Indigo - Extraction 105
Philip John
8.1 Introduction 105
8.2 Methods of Determining Indigo 106
8.3 Precursors in the Plants and Indigo Formation 108
8.4 Extraction Procedures 114
8.4.1 Traditional Process Using Crushed Leaf
Material 114
8.4.2 Steeping in Water 117
8.5 Purity of Natural Indigo 126
Acknowledgements 130
References 130
Anthocyanins: Nature s Glamorous Palette 135
Maria J. Melo, Fernando Pina and Claude Andary
9.1 Chemical Basis 135
9.1.1 Chemical Structures 135
9.1.2 Equilibria in Solution 137
9.1.3 Colour and Colour Stability 140
9.1.4 Anthocyanins as Antioxidants 141
9.2 Natural Sources for Anthocyanins 142
9.2.1 Plant Sources, Content, Influencing Parameters 142
Contents ix
9.3 Applications 144
9.3.1 Food Colorants 144
9.3.2 Other Uses 145
9.4 Examples of Commercial Products and Processing 146
References 147
10 Natural Colorants - Quinoid, Naphthoquinoid
and Anthraquinoid Dyes 151
Thomas Bechtold
10.1 Introduction 151
10.2 Benzoquinone Dyes 151
10.3 Naphthoquinone Dyes 152
10.3.1 Lawson (2-hydroxy-l,4-naphthoquinone, CI Natural Orange 6) 153
10.3.2 Juglone (5-hydroxy-l,4-naphthoquinone, CI Natural Brown 7) 156
10.4 Anthraquinone Dyes 157
10.4.1 Main Components Emodin and Chrysophanol -
Rheum Species and Rumex Species 157
10.4.2 Main Components Alizarin and/or
Pseudopurpurin/Purpurin 159
10.5 Other Sources of Anthraquinoid Dyes 171
References 171
11 Dyes from Lichens and Mushrooms 183
Riikka Rdisdnen
11.1 Use of Lichen and Mushroom Dyes in the Past 183
11.2 Cultivation of Lichens and Mushrooms 184
11.3 Dyestuffs in Lichens and Mushrooms 185
11.3.1 Lichen Dyestuffs: Orchils and Litmus 185
11.3.2 Yellowish, Brownish and Reddish Colorants from Lichen 191
11.3.3 Benzoquinone Derivatives 192
11.3.4 Anthraquinones 192
11.3.5 Other Colorants of Fungi 196
11.4 Colour-fastness of Lichen and Mushroom Dyes 197
11.5 New Approaches to Lichen and Fungal Natural Dyes 198
References 198
12 Tannins and Tannin Agents 201
Riitta Julkunen-Tiitto and Hely Hdggman
12.1 Introduction 201
12.2 Chemical Structure, Biosynthesis and Degradation 203
12.3 Properties of Tannins 207
12.4 Chemical Activities of Tannins 208
Contents
12.5 Analysis of Tannins 209
12.5.1 Sample Preservation 209
12.5.2 Extraction and Purification 209
12.5.3 Quantification of Tannins 210
12.6 Use, Toxicology and Safety Aspects of Tannins 212
References 214
13 Carotenoid Dyes - Properties 221
U. Gamage Chandrika
13.1 Introduction 221
13.1.1 Occurrence of Carotenoids 221
13.1.2 Chemistry of Carotenoids 221
13.1.3 Chemical Characteristics of Natural Carotenoids 222
13.2 Properties and Functions of Carotenoids 225
13.2.1 Carotenoids Role as Pro-vitamin A 225
13.2.2 Use of Carotenoids as Markers of Dietary
Practices 227
13.2.3 Carotenoids as Antioxidants 227
13.2.4 Carotenoids in the Macular Region of the Retina 227
13.2.5 Carotenoids as Anticancer Agent 228
13.2.6 Carotenoids as a Natural Colorant 228
13.3 General Procedure for Carotenoid Analysis 228
13.3.1 Sampling 228
13.3.2 Extraction 230
13.3.3 Saponification of Carotenoids 230
13.3.4 Chromatographic Separation 230
13.3.5 Chemical Tests 231
13.3.6 Detection and Identification of Carotenoids 231
13.3.7 Quantification of Carotenoids 233
13.4 Problems in Carotenoid Analysis 233
References 234
14 Carotenoid Dyes - Production 237
U. Gamage Chandrika
14.1 Factors Influencing Carotenoid Composition in Plant
Sources 237
14.1.1 Stage of Maturity 237
14.1.2 Cultivar or Varietal Differences 238
14.1.3 Climatic or Geographic Effects 238
14.1.4 Post-harvest Storage and Packing 239
14.1.5 Changes in Processing/Cooking 239
14.1.6 Effect of Agrochemicals 241
References 241
Contents xi
15 Chlorophylls 243
Ursula Maria Lanfer Marquez and Daniela Borrmann
15.1 Introduction 243
15.2 Chlorophylls as Colorants 244
15.3 Other Applications of Chlorophylls and their Derivatives 247
15.4 Chemical Structures and Physicochemical Properties 247
15.5 Stability and Analysis 250
15.6 Sources, Storage and Handling 250
15.7 Purity, Standardization and Quality Control 251
15.8 Toxicological and Safety Aspects 252
References 253
Part IV Application in Technical Use and Consumer Products 255
16 Flavonoids as Natural Pigments 257
M. Monica Giusti and Taylor C. Wallace
16.1 Introduction 257
16.2 Role of Localized Flavonoids in the Plant 258
16.3 General Flavonoid Chemical Structure 258
16.4 Biosynthesis of Flavonoids 259
16.5 Anthocyanins as Natural Colorants 261
16.5.1 Color Stability 261
16.5.2 Structure 261
16.5.3 Structural Transformation and pH 263
16.5.4 Temperature 264
16.5.5 Oxygen and Ascorbic Acid 264
16.5.6 Light 265
16.5.7 Enzymes and Sugars 265
16.5.8 Sulfur Dioxide 266
16.5.9 Co-pigmentation and Metal Complexation 267
16.6 Other Flavonoids as Natural Colorants 268
16.6.1 Yellow Flavonoid Pigments 268
16.6.2 Tannins 269
16.7 Therapeutic Effects of Flavonoids in the Diet 270
16.8 Regulations on the Use of Flavonoid Colorants 271
References 272
17 Application of Natural Dyes in the Coloration of Wood 277
Martin Weigl, Andreas Kandelbauer, Christian Hansmann,
Johannes Pockl, Ulrich Miiller and Michael Grabner
17.1 Introduction 277
17.1.1 General Basics 278
17.1.2 Color Measurement 282
17.1.3 Color Stability 283
xii Contents
17.2 Coatings
17.3 Dyes
17.3.1 Dyeing for Analytical Purposes
17.3.2 Impregnation
17.4 Color Modification
17.4.1 Drying
17.4.2 Steaming
17.4.3 Thermal Treatment
17.4.4 Ammoniation
17.4.5 Bleaching
17.4.6 Enzymatic Treatment
17.4.7 Radiation
17.5 Outlook
283
285
285
286
290
291
295
297
298
301
303
305
308
References 308
18 Natural Colorants in Textile Dyeing 315
Rita A. M. Mussak and Thomas Bechtold
18.1 Introduction 315
18.2 Reasons for Natural Coloration 316
18.3 Analysis of a Dyeing Process 317
18.3.1 Water 318
18.3.2 Energy 318
18.3.3 Dyestuff and Chemicals (Mordants and Auxiliaries) 319
18.3.4 Machinery 321
18.4 Basics of Natural Dyeings 321
18.4.1 Requirements of the Dyestuff 321
18.4.2 Dye-ability of Substrates 321
18.4.3 Standardization of the Dyestuff 326
18.4.4 Ecological Aspects 327
18.4.5 Aspects of Application 328
18.4.6 Dyeing Technology 329
18.4.7 Mordanting 330
18.4.8 Standardization of the Coloration Process 331
18.4.9 Mixtures of Plant Material 331
18.5 Natural Dyes on an Industrial Scale 332
18.5.1 Hank Dyeing of Woolen Yarn and Production of
Woolen Caps 332
18.5.2 Dyeing of Cones in a Yarn Dyeing Machine 333
18.5.3 Dyeing of Cotton Fabric on a Jet Dyeing Machine 333
18.5.4 Dyeing of Cotton Fabric on a Jig Dyeing Machine 333
18.5.5 Fabric Dyeing on a Garment Dyeing Machine 333
18.5.6 Dyeing of Polyamide Tights in a Paddle Dyeing Machine 334
18.6 Conclusion 334
Acknowledgment 334
References 335
19.1 Introduction
19.2 Human Hair
19.3 General Requirements on Hair Dyeing Concepts
19.4 Chemical Principles of Dyestuff Binding
19.5 Relevant Natural Dyes for Hair Dyeing
19.5.1 Naphthoquinone Dyes - Henna and Walnut
19.5.2 Indigo
19.5.3 Metal Complexes
19.5.4 Metal Reaction Dyes
19.5.5 Anthraquinoid Dyes
19.6 Specialities
19.7 Regulations
Contents xiii
19 Natural Colorants in Hair Dyeing 339
Thomas Bechtold
339
340
340
341
342
342
343
345
346
347
347
347
References 347
Part V Environmental 351
20 Environmental Aspects and Sustainability 353
Erika Ganglberger
20.1 Introduction 353
20.2 Supply of Plant Material 354
20.2.1 Cultivation of Dye Plants 354
20.2.2 Residual Materials and By-products 355
20.2.3 Selection Process for a Sustainable Supply of Plant Material 356
20.3 Processing to Dyestuff 357
20.3.1 Energy Consumption 358
20.3.2 Water Consumption 359
20.4 Application of Colouring Matter 360
20.4.1 Dyeing Procedure 361
20.5 Considerations Concerning the Life Cycle 361
20.5.1 Raw Material 361
20.5.2 Processing of Raw Material 362
20.5.3 Extraction of Dyestuff 362
20.5.4 Dyeing Procedure 363
20.5.5 Transport 363
20.6 Conclusion 364
20.6.1 Dealing with Sustainability 364
References 365
21 Economic Aspects of Natural Dyes 367
Susanne Geissler
21.1 Introduction 367
21.2 Basic Requirements for the Industrial Use of Natural Colorants 368
x/v Contents
21.3 Challenges for the Industrial Use of Natural Colorants 370
21.3.1 Quality of Raw Material and Reproducibility of Colours 370
21.3.2 Range of Available Colours 370
21.4 Consumer Expectations 371
21.4.1 Market Research for Naturally Dyed Products 372
21.5 Production Costs of Natural Colorant Products 375
21.5.1 Cost Categories 375
21.5.2 Aspects Influencing Production Costs 376
21.5.3 Prices of Synthetic Dyes - How Much Are Textile
Companies Prepared to Pay for Dyes? 378
21.5.4 Acceptable Production Costs through a Mixed Portfolio
(Agricultural Primary Production and Residues from Other
Production Processes) 379
21.6 Closed-Loop Economy: Towards a Zero-Emission and Zero-Waste
Society 381
21.7 Conclusion: Aspects Influencing Market Development for Natural
Colorants 382
References 383
Index 385
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| id | DE-604.BV035759178 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2024-07-09T22:03:51Z |
| institution | BVB |
| isbn | 9780470511992 0470511990 |
| language | English |
| lccn | 2008053906 |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-018619082 |
| oclc_num | 289095962 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | DE-29T DE-91S DE-BY-TUM |
| owner_facet | DE-29T DE-91S DE-BY-TUM |
| physical | XXII, 412 S. Ill., graph. Darst. |
| publishDate | 2009 |
| publishDateSearch | 2009 |
| publishDateSort | 2009 |
| publisher | Wiley |
| record_format | marc |
| series2 | Wiley series in renewable resources |
| spelling | Handbook of natural colorants ed. by Thomas Bechtold ... Chichester Wiley 2009 XXII, 412 S. Ill., graph. Darst. txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Wiley series in renewable resources Chemie Dyes and dyeing Dye plants Dyes and dyeing Chemistry Farbstoff (DE-588)4016465-2 gnd rswk-swf Chemie (DE-588)4009816-3 gnd rswk-swf Färben (DE-588)4016254-0 gnd rswk-swf Färberpflanzen (DE-588)4297826-9 gnd rswk-swf Färben (DE-588)4016254-0 s Farbstoff (DE-588)4016465-2 s Chemie (DE-588)4009816-3 s DE-604 Färberpflanzen (DE-588)4297826-9 s Bechtold, Thomas 1974- Sonstige (DE-588)132560968 oth HBZ Datenaustausch application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=018619082&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Handbook of natural colorants Chemie Dyes and dyeing Dye plants Dyes and dyeing Chemistry Farbstoff (DE-588)4016465-2 gnd Chemie (DE-588)4009816-3 gnd Färben (DE-588)4016254-0 gnd Färberpflanzen (DE-588)4297826-9 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4016465-2 (DE-588)4009816-3 (DE-588)4016254-0 (DE-588)4297826-9 |
| title | Handbook of natural colorants |
| title_auth | Handbook of natural colorants |
| title_exact_search | Handbook of natural colorants |
| title_full | Handbook of natural colorants ed. by Thomas Bechtold ... |
| title_fullStr | Handbook of natural colorants ed. by Thomas Bechtold ... |
| title_full_unstemmed | Handbook of natural colorants ed. by Thomas Bechtold ... |
| title_short | Handbook of natural colorants |
| title_sort | handbook of natural colorants |
| topic | Chemie Dyes and dyeing Dye plants Dyes and dyeing Chemistry Farbstoff (DE-588)4016465-2 gnd Chemie (DE-588)4009816-3 gnd Färben (DE-588)4016254-0 gnd Färberpflanzen (DE-588)4297826-9 gnd |
| topic_facet | Chemie Dyes and dyeing Dye plants Dyes and dyeing Chemistry Farbstoff Färben Färberpflanzen |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=018619082&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT bechtoldthomas handbookofnaturalcolorants |