Waves in oceanic and coastal waters:
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| Main Author: | |
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| Format: | Book |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
Cambridge
Cambridge Univ. Press
2007
|
| Edition: | 1. publ. |
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Physical Description: | XVI, 387 S. graph. Darst. |
| ISBN: | 9780521860284 0521860288 |
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| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Waves in oceanic and coastal waters |c Leo H. Holthuijsen |
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Record in the Search Index
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| adam_text | Contents
Preface page xiii
Acknowledgements xv
1 Introduction 1
1.1 Key concepts 1
1.2 This book and its reader 1
1.3 Physical aspects and scales 3
1.4 The structure of the book 7
2 Observation techniques 10
2.1 Key concepts 10
2.2 Introduction 10
2.3 In situ techniques 12
2.3.1 Wave buoys 13
2.3.2 Wave poles 15
2.3.3 Other in situ techniques 17
2.4 Remote sensing techniques 18
2.4.1 Imaging techniques 19
Stereo photography 19
Imaging and non imaging radar 20
2.4.2 Altimetry 21
Laser altimetry 21
Acoustic altimetry 22
Radar altimetry 22
3 Description of ocean waves 24
3.1 Key concepts 24
3.2 Introduction 24
3.3 Wave height and period 25
3.3.1 Waves 25
3.3.2 Wave height 27
3.3.3 Wave period 29
vii
viii Contents
3.4 Visual observations and instrumental measurements 29
3.5 The wave spectrum 31
3.5.1 Introduction 31
3.5.2 The random phase/amplitude model 33
3.5.3 The variance density spectrum 36
3.5.4 Interpretation of the variance density spectrum 38
3.5.5 Alternative definitions 41
The spectral domain 41
Formal definition 42
3.5.6 The frequency direction spectrum 43
3.5.7 The spectrum at sea 47
3.5.8 Wave number spectra 48
The one dimensional wave number spectrum 49
The two dimensional wave number spectrum 49
The three dimensional frequency wave number
spectrum 50
3.5.9 Spectrum acquisition 51
3.6 Transfer functions and response spectra 52
4 Statistics 56
4.1 Key concepts 56
4.2 Short term statistics 56
4.2.1 Instantaneous surface elevation 57
4.2.2 Wave height and period 60
Wave period 60
Crest height 62
Wave height 68
4.2.3 Wave groups 75
4.2.4 Extreme values 77
Extreme elevations 78
Extreme wave heights 82
4.3 Long term statistics (wave climate) 85
4.3.1 The initial distribution approach 87
4.3.2 The peak over threshold approach 95
4.3.3 The annual maximum approach 98
4.3.4 Individual wave height 101
4.3.5 Wave atlases 105
5 Linear wave theory (oceanic waters) 106
5.1 Key concepts 106
5.2 Introduction 107
Contents ix
5.3 Basic equations and boundary conditions 107
5.3.1 Idealisations of the water and its motions 108
5.3.2 Balance equations 109
Mass balance and continuity equations 112
Momentum balance 112
5.3.3 Boundary conditions 114
5.3.4 The velocity potential function 115
5.4 Propagating harmonic wave 118
5.4.1 Introduction 118
5.4.2 Kinematics 119
Particle velocity 120
Particle path 121
5.4.3 Dynamics 123
The dispersion relationship 123
Phase velocity and group velocity 125
Wave induced pressure 128
5.4.4 Capillary waves 129
5.5 Wave energy (transport) 131
5.5.1 Wave energy 131
5.5.2 Energy transport 132
5.6 Nonlinear, permanent waves 137
5.6.1 Introduction 137
5.6.2 Stokes theory and Dean s stream function theory 139
5.6.3 Cnoidal and solitary waves 142
6 Waves in oceanic waters 145
6.1 Key concepts 145
6.2 Introduction 146
6.3 Wave modelling for idealised cases (oceanic waters) 147
6.3.1 Idealised wind 148
6.3.2 The significant wave 150
6.3.3 The one dimensional wave spectrum 155
6.3.4 The two dimensional wave spectrum 162
6.4 Wave modelling for arbitrary cases (oceanic waters) 167
6.4.1 The energy balance equation 169
6.4.2 Wave propagation and swell 174
6.4.3 Generation by wind 177
6.4.4 Nonlinear wave wave interactions (quadruplet) 183
6.4.5 Dissipation (white capping) 188
6.4.6 Energy flow in the spectrum 192
6.4.7 First , second and third generation wave models 194
x Contents
7 Linear wave theory (coastal waters) 197
7.1 Key concepts 197
7.2 Introduction 197
7.3 Propagation 199
7.3.1 Shoaling 199
7.3.2 Refraction 202
7.3.3 Diffraction 210
7.3.4 Refraction and diffraction 217
7.3.5 Tides and currents 218
7.3.6 Reflections 221
7.4 Wave induced set up and currents 225
7.4.1 Introduction 225
7.4.2 Wave momentum and radiation stress 225
7.4.3 Wave induced set up, set down and currents 234
7.5 Nonlinear, evolving waves 239
7.5.1 Introduction 239
7.5.2 The Boussinesq model 240
7.6 Breaking waves 242
8 Waves in coastal waters 244
8.1 Key concepts 244
8.2 Introduction 245
8.3 Wave modelling for idealised cases (coastal waters) 246
8.3.1 The significant wave 247
8.3.2 The one dimensional wave spectrum 250
8.3.3 The two dimensional wave spectrum 256
8.4 Wave modelling for arbitrary cases (coastal waters) 256
8.4.1 The energy/action balance equation 257
8.4.2 Wave propagation 263
8.4.3 Generation by wind 268
8.4.4 Nonlinear wave wave interactions 269
Quadruplet wave wave interactions 269
Triad wave wave interactions 270
8.4.5 Dissipation 276
White capping 276
Bottom friction 276
Depth induced (surf )breaking 281
8.4.6 Energy flow in the spectrum 284
Contents xi
9 The SWAN wave model 286
9.1 Key concepts 286
9.2 Introduction 286
9.3 Action balance 288
9.3.1 The action balance equation 288
9.3.2 Generation by wind 289
9.3.3 Nonlinear wave wave interactions 292
Quadruplet wave wave interactions 292
Triad wave wave interactions 293
9.3.4 Dissipation 294
White capping 294
Bottom friction 295
Depth induced (surf )breaking 296
Reflection, transmission and absorption 296
9.4 Wave induced set up 296
9.5 Numerical techniques 298
9.5.1 Introduction 298
9.5.2 Propagation 299
Numerical schemes 301
Solvers, grids and boundaries 305
9.5.3 Generation, wave wave interactions and dissipation 306
Positive source terms 307
Negative source terms 307
Numerical stability 308
9.5.4 Wave induced set up 309
Appendix A Random variables 310
Appendix B Linear wave theory 318
Appendix C Spectral analysis 324
Appendix D Tides and currents 335
Appendix E Shallow water equations 342
References 347
Index 379
|
| adam_txt |
Contents
Preface page xiii
Acknowledgements xv
1 Introduction 1
1.1 Key concepts 1
1.2 This book and its reader 1
1.3 Physical aspects and scales 3
1.4 The structure of the book 7
2 Observation techniques 10
2.1 Key concepts 10
2.2 Introduction 10
2.3 In situ techniques 12
2.3.1 Wave buoys 13
2.3.2 Wave poles 15
2.3.3 Other in situ techniques 17
2.4 Remote sensing techniques 18
2.4.1 Imaging techniques 19
Stereo photography 19
Imaging and non imaging radar 20
2.4.2 Altimetry 21
Laser altimetry 21
Acoustic altimetry 22
Radar altimetry 22
3 Description of ocean waves 24
3.1 Key concepts 24
3.2 Introduction 24
3.3 Wave height and period 25
3.3.1 Waves 25
3.3.2 Wave height 27
3.3.3 Wave period 29
vii
viii Contents
3.4 Visual observations and instrumental measurements 29
3.5 The wave spectrum 31
3.5.1 Introduction 31
3.5.2 The random phase/amplitude model 33
3.5.3 The variance density spectrum 36
3.5.4 Interpretation of the variance density spectrum 38
3.5.5 Alternative definitions 41
The spectral domain 41
Formal definition 42
3.5.6 The frequency direction spectrum 43
3.5.7 The spectrum at sea 47
3.5.8 Wave number spectra 48
The one dimensional wave number spectrum 49
The two dimensional wave number spectrum 49
The three dimensional frequency wave number
spectrum 50
3.5.9 Spectrum acquisition 51
3.6 Transfer functions and response spectra 52
4 Statistics 56
4.1 Key concepts 56
4.2 Short term statistics 56
4.2.1 Instantaneous surface elevation 57
4.2.2 Wave height and period 60
Wave period 60
Crest height 62
Wave height 68
4.2.3 Wave groups 75
4.2.4 Extreme values 77
Extreme elevations 78
Extreme wave heights 82
4.3 Long term statistics (wave climate) 85
4.3.1 The initial distribution approach 87
4.3.2 The peak over threshold approach 95
4.3.3 The annual maximum approach 98
4.3.4 Individual wave height 101
4.3.5 Wave atlases 105
5 Linear wave theory (oceanic waters) 106
5.1 Key concepts 106
5.2 Introduction 107
Contents ix
5.3 Basic equations and boundary conditions 107
5.3.1 Idealisations of the water and its motions 108
5.3.2 Balance equations 109
Mass balance and continuity equations 112
Momentum balance 112
5.3.3 Boundary conditions 114
5.3.4 The velocity potential function 115
5.4 Propagating harmonic wave 118
5.4.1 Introduction 118
5.4.2 Kinematics 119
Particle velocity 120
Particle path 121
5.4.3 Dynamics 123
The dispersion relationship 123
Phase velocity and group velocity 125
Wave induced pressure 128
5.4.4 Capillary waves 129
5.5 Wave energy (transport) 131
5.5.1 Wave energy 131
5.5.2 Energy transport 132
5.6 Nonlinear, permanent waves 137
5.6.1 Introduction 137
5.6.2 Stokes' theory and Dean's stream function theory 139
5.6.3 Cnoidal and solitary waves 142
6 Waves in oceanic waters 145
6.1 Key concepts 145
6.2 Introduction 146
6.3 Wave modelling for idealised cases (oceanic waters) 147
6.3.1 Idealised wind 148
6.3.2 The significant wave 150
6.3.3 The one dimensional wave spectrum 155
6.3.4 The two dimensional wave spectrum 162
6.4 Wave modelling for arbitrary cases (oceanic waters) 167
6.4.1 The energy balance equation 169
6.4.2 Wave propagation and swell 174
6.4.3 Generation by wind 177
6.4.4 Nonlinear wave wave interactions (quadruplet) 183
6.4.5 Dissipation (white capping) 188
6.4.6 Energy flow in the spectrum 192
6.4.7 First , second and third generation wave models 194
x Contents
7 Linear wave theory (coastal waters) 197
7.1 Key concepts 197
7.2 Introduction 197
7.3 Propagation 199
7.3.1 Shoaling 199
7.3.2 Refraction 202
7.3.3 Diffraction 210
7.3.4 Refraction and diffraction 217
7.3.5 Tides and currents 218
7.3.6 Reflections 221
7.4 Wave induced set up and currents 225
7.4.1 Introduction 225
7.4.2 Wave momentum and radiation stress 225
7.4.3 Wave induced set up, set down and currents 234
7.5 Nonlinear, evolving waves 239
7.5.1 Introduction 239
7.5.2 The Boussinesq model 240
7.6 Breaking waves 242
8 Waves in coastal waters 244
8.1 Key concepts 244
8.2 Introduction 245
8.3 Wave modelling for idealised cases (coastal waters) 246
8.3.1 The significant wave 247
8.3.2 The one dimensional wave spectrum 250
8.3.3 The two dimensional wave spectrum 256
8.4 Wave modelling for arbitrary cases (coastal waters) 256
8.4.1 The energy/action balance equation 257
8.4.2 Wave propagation 263
8.4.3 Generation by wind 268
8.4.4 Nonlinear wave wave interactions 269
Quadruplet wave wave interactions 269
Triad wave wave interactions 270
8.4.5 Dissipation 276
White capping 276
Bottom friction 276
Depth induced (surf )breaking 281
8.4.6 Energy flow in the spectrum 284
Contents xi
9 The SWAN wave model 286
9.1 Key concepts 286
9.2 Introduction 286
9.3 Action balance 288
9.3.1 The action balance equation 288
9.3.2 Generation by wind 289
9.3.3 Nonlinear wave wave interactions 292
Quadruplet wave wave interactions 292
Triad wave wave interactions 293
9.3.4 Dissipation 294
White capping 294
Bottom friction 295
Depth induced (surf )breaking 296
Reflection, transmission and absorption 296
9.4 Wave induced set up 296
9.5 Numerical techniques 298
9.5.1 Introduction 298
9.5.2 Propagation 299
Numerical schemes 301
Solvers, grids and boundaries 305
9.5.3 Generation, wave wave interactions and dissipation 306
Positive source terms 307
Negative source terms 307
Numerical stability 308
9.5.4 Wave induced set up 309
Appendix A Random variables 310
Appendix B Linear wave theory 318
Appendix C Spectral analysis 324
Appendix D Tides and currents 335
Appendix E Shallow water equations 342
References 347
Index 379 |
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| index_date | 2024-07-02T17:28:25Z |
| indexdate | 2024-07-09T20:57:23Z |
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| language | English |
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| spelling | Holthuijsen, Leonardus H. Verfasser aut Waves in oceanic and coastal waters Leo H. Holthuijsen 1. publ. Cambridge Cambridge Univ. Press 2007 XVI, 387 S. graph. Darst. txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Vagues - Modèles mathématiques Vagues - Modèles mathématiques ram Meer (DE-588)4038301-5 gnd rswk-swf Wasserwelle (DE-588)4136091-6 gnd rswk-swf Wasserwelle (DE-588)4136091-6 s Meer (DE-588)4038301-5 s DE-604 HBZ Datenaustausch application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=015636865&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Holthuijsen, Leonardus H. Waves in oceanic and coastal waters Vagues - Modèles mathématiques Vagues - Modèles mathématiques ram Meer (DE-588)4038301-5 gnd Wasserwelle (DE-588)4136091-6 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4038301-5 (DE-588)4136091-6 |
| title | Waves in oceanic and coastal waters |
| title_auth | Waves in oceanic and coastal waters |
| title_exact_search | Waves in oceanic and coastal waters |
| title_exact_search_txtP | Waves in oceanic and coastal waters |
| title_full | Waves in oceanic and coastal waters Leo H. Holthuijsen |
| title_fullStr | Waves in oceanic and coastal waters Leo H. Holthuijsen |
| title_full_unstemmed | Waves in oceanic and coastal waters Leo H. Holthuijsen |
| title_short | Waves in oceanic and coastal waters |
| title_sort | waves in oceanic and coastal waters |
| topic | Vagues - Modèles mathématiques Vagues - Modèles mathématiques ram Meer (DE-588)4038301-5 gnd Wasserwelle (DE-588)4136091-6 gnd |
| topic_facet | Vagues - Modèles mathématiques Meer Wasserwelle |
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