Ottoman costumes: from textile to identity
Saved in:
| Other Authors: | , |
|---|---|
| Format: | Book |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
Istanbul
Eren
2004
|
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Item Description: | Includes bibliographical references (p. [305]-330) and index |
| Physical Description: | 336 S. Ill. 24 cm |
| ISBN: | 9756372044 |
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Record in the Search Index
| _version_ | 1804132944153935872 |
|---|---|
| adam_text | Ottoman Costumes
From Textile to Identity
Edited by
Suraiya Faroqhi and Christoph K Neumann
SEREN
İstanbul, 2004
Contents
Acknowledgments 9
The authors 11
Introduction, or why and how one might want to study Ottoman clothes 15
Suraiya Faroqhi
Primary sources: words and things 17
Primary sources: images 19
Clothing and public order 22
Enforcing religious rules while presenting the self: the role of colours 24
The use of fabrics in the culture of Ottoman dress 28
Ottoman fashions before the nineteenth century? 29
Cultural contacts as manifested in dress 30
Self and family, appropriately dressed: the evidence of photography 32
A culture of poverty in the textile sector 34
The contributions: theoretical background 36
The contributions: making sense of primary sources 38
Clothing and the social order 40
Identity, presentation of self and cultural contacts 43
A very provisional conclusion 47
The historiography of costume: a brief survey 49
Odile Blanc
Changing notions of style 50
Analyzing material remains: archeology vs history 53
Towards an anthropology of fashion 56
Clothes and the body 59
To conclude 61
Furs and skins owned by the Sultans 63
Hülya Tezcan
Ottoman palace etiquette: which furs to be worn when? 64
Securing supplies 65
Manufacturing fine furs 66
Instituting quality controls 67
Regulating prices 68
Hard times and a fur trade in trouble 69
Working for the Ottoman palace 71
6 Contents
Surviving furs in the collections of the Topkapi palace - and
eighteenth-century evidence documenting the appearance of lost pieces 73
Varieties of decorative design: mosaics and dyed furs 74
Some intriguing rarities 75
Skins used entire 76
In conclusion 78
List of illustrations 79
Female costumes in late fifteenth-century Bursa 81
Suraiya Faroqlii
Estate inventories as a source for information on women s clothing 81
Clothing terminology 84
Some worrisome gaps 87
A few conclusions, for what they are worth 88
The place of dress in pre-modern costume albums 93
Leslie Meral Schick
Dress codes in the Ottoman Empire: the case of the Franks 103
Matthew Elliot
Dress codes for zimmis 104
Muslims imitating zimmis and foreigners 108
The Franks and their agents: firmans and berats 111
A genuine dilemma 114
Conclusion 122
Whose laws? Gendering the Ottoman sumptuary regime 125
Madeline C Zilfi
The Ottoman sartorial regime 128
Texts and their targets 130
Rulers and ruled 133
Whose laws? 136
Conclusions 139
Clothing the uncivilized : military recruitment in Ottoman Yemen
and the quest for native uniforms, 1880-1914 143
Thomas Kiilin
Undressing the Albanian: finding social history in Ottoman material cultures 157
Isa Blumi
Introduction 157
Exploring social history through clothing 158
The Malësore vs the Albanian 159
The imperial context 162
Clothing terminology 165
Hairstyles 171
Methodological suggestions 172
6 Contents
Two examples 174
Conclusion: back to textiles 177
List of illustrations 179
How did a vizier dress in the eighteenth century? 181
Christoph K Neumann
Pictorial evidence 182
Two probate inventories 185
Two pashas and their garments 187
How to recognize a vizier if you see him on the street 191
Probate inventory 192
Ottoman kaftans with an Italian identity 219
Louise W Mackie
List of illustrations 229
Ottoman influences in Western dress 231
Charlotte Jirousek
Dress and fashion 231
The fundamental form of Turkish dress 232
The fundamental form of European dress 234
Sources of fashion ideas 235
Ottoman influences in Western dress: coats and trousers 238
Headgear 244
Layering 247
Twentieth century: globalization of fashion 249
List of illustrations 250
A sartorial tribute to late Tanzimat Ottomanism:
The Elbise-i Osmaniyye album 253
Ahmet Ersoy
The Elbise and the Ottoman scholarly mission 256
Ottoman counter-exotica 259
Costume and imperial solidarity 261
The authors and the promotion of national taste 263
List of illustrations 270
Illustrations
Bibliography
Index
271-304
|
| any_adam_object | 1 |
| author2 | Faroqhi, Suraiya 1941- Neumann, Christoph K. 1962- |
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| building | Verbundindex |
| bvnumber | BV019585866 |
| callnumber-first | G - Geography, Anthropology, Recreation |
| callnumber-label | GT1400 |
| callnumber-raw | GT1400 |
| callnumber-search | GT1400 |
| callnumber-sort | GT 41400 |
| callnumber-subject | GT - Manners and Customs |
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| ctrlnum | (OCoLC)57315612 (DE-599)BVBBV019585866 |
| dewey-full | 391.009561 |
| dewey-hundreds | 300 - Social sciences |
| dewey-ones | 391 - Costume and personal appearance |
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| dewey-search | 391.009561 |
| dewey-sort | 3391.009561 |
| dewey-tens | 390 - Customs, etiquette, folklore |
| discipline | Geschichte Sozial-/Kulturanthropologie / Empirische Kulturwissenschaft |
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| spelling | Ottoman costumes from textile to identity ed. by Suraiya Faroqhi and Christoph K. Neumann Istanbul Eren 2004 336 S. Ill. 24 cm txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Includes bibliographical references (p. [305]-330) and index Geschichte gnd rswk-swf Clothing and dress / Turkey / History Costume / Turkey / History Alltag, Brauchtum Geschichte Clothing and dress Turkey Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd rswk-swf Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd rswk-swf Türkei Turkey Social life and customs Osmanisches Reich (DE-588)4075720-1 gnd rswk-swf (DE-588)4143413-4 Aufsatzsammlung gnd-content Osmanisches Reich (DE-588)4075720-1 g Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 s Geschichte z DE-604 Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 s Faroqhi, Suraiya 1941- (DE-588)121870472 edt Neumann, Christoph K. 1962- (DE-588)120283743 edt HEBIS Datenaustausch application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=012922752&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Ottoman costumes from textile to identity Clothing and dress / Turkey / History Costume / Turkey / History Alltag, Brauchtum Geschichte Clothing and dress Turkey Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd |
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| title | Ottoman costumes from textile to identity |
| title_auth | Ottoman costumes from textile to identity |
| title_exact_search | Ottoman costumes from textile to identity |
| title_full | Ottoman costumes from textile to identity ed. by Suraiya Faroqhi and Christoph K. Neumann |
| title_fullStr | Ottoman costumes from textile to identity ed. by Suraiya Faroqhi and Christoph K. Neumann |
| title_full_unstemmed | Ottoman costumes from textile to identity ed. by Suraiya Faroqhi and Christoph K. Neumann |
| title_short | Ottoman costumes |
| title_sort | ottoman costumes from textile to identity |
| title_sub | from textile to identity |
| topic | Clothing and dress / Turkey / History Costume / Turkey / History Alltag, Brauchtum Geschichte Clothing and dress Turkey Mode (DE-588)4039792-0 gnd Kleidung (DE-588)4031011-5 gnd |
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