Building on batik: the globalization of a craft community
Saved in:
| Format: | Book |
|---|---|
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
Aldershot [u.a.]
Ashgate
2000
|
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Physical Description: | XXXIII, 360 S. Ill. |
| ISBN: | 1840149876 |
Staff View
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| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Building on batik |b the globalization of a craft community |c ed. by Michael Hitchcock ... |
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| 300 | |a XXXIII, 360 S. |b Ill. | ||
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Record in the Search Index
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|---|---|
| adam_text | Contents
List of Illustrations ix
Foreword xiv
Acknowledgments xxi
Introduction xxii
Dunia Batik Conference Declaration, Yogyakarta, Indonesia,
5 November 1997 xxxii
PART 1: CRAFTS, CULTURE AND TECHNOLOGICAL
CHANGE 1
1 Quo Vadis Batik? 3
Iwan Tirta
2 Aspects of Intellectual Property and Textiles 10
Bill Morrow
3 Innovation, Change and Tradition in the Batik Industry 23
Teruo Sekimoto
PART 2: TRADITIONAL BATIK 33
4 Cultural Values and Traditional Batik Patterns 35
Oetari K.W. Siswomihardjo
5 Function and Meaning of Batik lurik A Reconstruction 51
Renske Heringa
6 The Philosophy and Meaning of Classic Batik Patterns of
Central Java 64
5. Hertini Adiwoso
v
vi Building on Batik: The Globalization of a Craft Community
7 Textiles in Ancient Bali 67
I Wayan Ardika
8 The Classical Batiks of Jambi 75
Fiona G. Kerlogue
9 The Development of Motifs in Indonesian Batik Fashion Trends
from 1850 Onwards 87
Ardiyanto Pranata
10 The Garuda Motif and Cultural Identity 101
Woro Aryandini S.
PART 3: COMPARATIVE BATIK 107
11 Parang Rusak Design in European Art 109
Maria Wronska Friend
12 Javanese and Indonesian Batik in Germany 118
Irene Romeo
13 Reflections on Moscow Batik 127
Joachim Blank
14 Batik as Both Art and Craft 138
Rita Trefois
15 Malay (Perak) Embroidery in Contemporary Batik 145
Nazlina Shaari
16 The Art of Batik in Sri Lanka 151
Siva Obeyesekere
17 Persistence of Traditional Dress in Mesoamerica 154
Carol Hayman
18 Batik Effect on Pure Woven Wool 162
Dougal Pleasance
Contents vii
19 Batik on Paper Bi and Tridimensional Structures 170
Alicia Farkas
20 Independent European Batik Technique on Easter Eggs 179
Annegret Haake and Hani Winotosastro
PART 4: BATIK CONSERVATION 187
21 Textile Exhibition Issues in Indonesian Museums 189
Puspitasari Wibisono
22 Batik Conservation in the Rotterdam Museum of Ethnology 197
Linda Hansen
23 The B atik Collection at the Tropenmuseum 217
hie van Hout
PART 5: VIRTUAL AND SOUVENIR BATIKS 225
24 Extraterrestrial Inspiration a Remarkable Batik from the Textile
Museum Collection 227
Mattiebelle Gittinger
25 The Challenge for Batik in the Year 2020: Art, Commodity and
Technology 236
Amri Yahya
26 Lifestyles in the Borderless World: Marketing Sarawak Textiles as
Cultural Identity Products 250
Mohammad Zulkifli
27 Batik Route: Batik and Tourism 265
Fred W. van Oss
28 The Threads That Tie Textiles to Tourism 271
Kaye Crippen
viii Building on Batik: The Globalization of a Craft Community
29 Modern Influences on East Sumbanese Textiles 285
Karin Smedjebacka
30 Tourism and Geringsing Textiles in Bali: A Case Study from
Tenganan 295
Ir Sulistyawati, MS
31 Endek and its Role in Tourism Development in Bali 307
Tri Budhi Sastrio
32 Textile Production, Tourism and the Internet The Austrian
Experience 314
Amin Tjoa and Roland R. Wagner
33 The Role of Tartan in the Development of the Image of Scotland 323
Richard Butler
34 Traditions, Tourism and Textiles: Creativity at the Cutting Edge 338
Nelson H.H. Graburn
Conclusions 355
Michael Hitchcock and Wiendu Nuryanti
List of Illustrations
Illustration 4.1 Mugirahayu 38
Illustration 4.2 Satria manah 39
Illustration 4.3 Semen Rama 40
Illustration 4.4 Bondhet 41
Illustration 4.5 Kopipecah 42
Illustration 4.6 Kawung 43
Illustration 4.7 Slobok 44
Illustration 4.8a Modified slobok 46
Illustration 4.8b Modified slobok 41
Illustration 4.9 Tjuwiri mentool 48
Illustration 4.10 Kodrat 49
Illustration 5.1 Waxing batik lurik 54
Illustration 5.2 Dutch batik lurik imitations 55
Illustration 5.3 Kijing miring (Central Java) 58
Illustration 5.4 Cuken motif (Central Java) 59
Illustration 5.5 Cuken motif {batik lurik) 60
Illustration 5.6 Kawung motif (Central Java) 62
Illustration 8.1 Selendang bersidang (private collection) 77
Illustration 8.2 Design structure of selendang 79
Illustration 8.3 Design structure of sarung 81
Illustration 8.4 Sarung in Bataghari design (private collection) 82
Illustration 8.5 Man s headcloth with calligraphic motif in border
(private collection) 83
Illustration 9.1a Ardiyanto Pranata: batik and tie dye silk shawl,
2.2 x 1.1m, 1998 98
Illustration 9.1b Ardiyanto Pranata: batik and tie dye silk shawl,
2.2 x 1.1m, 1998 99
Illustration 12.1 Dorte Christjansen: Spring Bouquet batik
on silk, 23 x 32 in. 120
Illustration 12.2 Dorte Christjansen: Bordertown batik on silk,
32 x 23 in. 121
Illustration 12.3 Dorte Christjansen: Owens Valley batik on silk,
17 x 12 in. 122
ix
x Building on Batik: The Globalization of a Craft Community
Illustration 13.1 Tatyana Shichireva: Troubadour , 75 x 80 cm,
1996 129
Illustration 13.2 Sergei Davidov: Uglitali batik on cotton,
60x60 cm, 1995 130
Illustration 13.3 Yuri Salman: Landscape batik on crepe de
chine, 1995 132
Illustration 13.4 Alexander Damaskin: Landscape batik on silk,
70x80 cm, 1995 134
Illustration 13.5 Alexander Damaskin: Flower batik on cotton,
70 x 110 cm, 1996 135
Illustration 13.6 Alexander Kosiak: East Dream batik on cotton,
200 x 900 cm, 1995 136
Illustration 14.1 Rondo (1995): wax resist on silk, 1.4 x 1.4 m,
machine patchwork, handquilting; fibre reactive
dyes 140
Illustration 14.2 New Outlook (1995): wax resist and discharge
on cotton, 0.6 x 0.7 m; fibre reactive, naphtol and
indigosol dyes 141
Illustration 14.3 Bursting (1995): wax resist and discharge on silk,
0.8 x 0.85 m; fibre reactive dyes 142
Illustration 14.4 Paris (1997): wax resist and discharge on silk,
0.55 x 0.75 m; fibre reactive dyes (Guizhou
Provincial Museum, Guiyang, China) 143
Illustration 19.1 El pajaro : batik on paper 174
Illustration 19.2 El vuelo : batik on paper 175
Illustration 19.3 El nido : batik on paper 176
Illustration 19.4 El nido (detail): batik on paper 177
Illustration 22.1 Labelled hipcloths (kain panjang) in the textile
department, collected by E. van Rijckevorsel and
G.P. Rouffaer, donated to the museum in 1884
and 1920 200
Illustration 22.2 Tubular hipcloth (sarung), 112 x 206.5 cm, Semarang,
North Coast (detail), collected by E. van Rijckevorsel,
donated in 1884 201
Illustration 22.3 Bedcover, 188 x 187 cm, Ungarang (near Semarang),
North Coast (detail), produced at the batik
workshop of Mrs von Franquemont
before 1867, collected by Rouffaer in 1900 202
List of Illustrations xi
Illustration 22.4 Silk hipcloths (kain panjang), 117 x 307 cm, Surakarta
(detail), produced at the batik workshop of Mrs Meyer
van den Berg c. 1900, signed H. Meyer v.d. Berg 203
Illustration 22.5 Batik long sleeve men s shirts 204
Illustration 22.6 Damage of black dye on batik cloth 208
Illustration 22.7 Damage caused by dirt 209
Illustration 22.8 Showcases, Indonesian Department, Rotterdam
Museum of Ethnology, 1903 210
Illustration 22.9 Showcases protected from dust by paper covers
during renovation of the museum in 1912 211
Illustration 22.10a Wooden cupboards with rolled batik, left large cloth
and right small cloth, in the museum s storage
department 212
Illustration 22.10b Wooden cupboards with rolled batik, left large
cloth and right small cloth, in the museum s storage
department 213
Illustration 22.11 Restoration equipment for treatment of batik cloth 214
Illustration 24.1a Detail of a batik from Central Java depicting scenes
from a Flash Gordon comic strip (Textile
Museum; gift of Katharine Z. Creane) 230
Illustration 24.1b Detail of a batik from Central Java depicting scenes
from a Flash Gordon comic strip (Textile
Museum; gift of Katharine Z. Creane) 231
Illustration 24.1c Detail of a batik from Central Java depicting scenes
from a Flash Gordon comic strip (Textile
Museum; gift of Katharine Z. Creane) 232
Illustration 25.1 Hanya Tinggal Arang : batik on cotton, 80 x 80 cm 239
Illustration 25.2 Lebak Merah : batik on cotton, 75 x 75 cm 240
Illustration 25.3 Daun daun : batik on cotton, 80 x 80 cm 241
Illustration 25.4 Rumput di Hutan Terbakar : batik on cotton,
80 x 80 cm 242
Illustration 25.5 Hutanku : batik on cotton, 300 x 200 cm 243
Illustration 25.6 Hutanku Tinggal Arang : batik on cotton,
120x80 cm 244
Illustration 25.7 Pohon pohon Arang (O, Hutanku) : batik on
cotton, 300 x 200 cm 245
Illustration 26.1 Iban ikat weaving 255
Illustration 26.2 First production of printed Sarawak motif on cotton 259
xii Building on Batik: The Globalization of a Craft Community
Illustration 26.3 Printed Sarawak motif on cotton rayon in various
colours 260
Illustration 26.4 Sarawak motif in batik 261
Illustration 26.5 Printed Sarawak motif umbrella 262
Illustration 30.1a Geringsing cloth hanging inside houses in the
village of Tenganan, to attract tourists attention 299
Illustration 30.1b Geringsing cloth hanging inside houses in the
village of Tenganan, to attract tourists attention 300
Illustration 30.2 Kepala Desa Adat Tengganan wearing the geringsing
cloth 301
Illustration 34.1 Traditional Canadian Inuit women s caribou skin
parka, modified with beadwork and colourful cloth
panels, made in the 1930s (photograph by author) 339
Illustration 34.2 Canadian Inuit hand embroidered applique cloth,
hanging behind altar, Salluit, Quebec, 1970s. Writing in
Inuit syllabic script reads: Guti nalliniuvut, Jesusi
ataniuvit [God who loves us, Jesus our king]
(photograph by author) 341
Illustration 34.3 Experimental batik, made by the Inuit of
Povirnituk, Quebec, 1968. On the left, Mile
Ouilette, the batik instructor for the Inuit Cooperative;
on the right, Mrs Vola Furneaux, wife of the Canadian
government administrator (photograph by author) 342
Illustration 34.4 Canadian silk scarf, using Inuit design under license
from the West Baffin Eskimo Cooperative,
1980s (photograph by author) 343
Illustration 34.5 Kwagiulth dancers wearing woven Chilkat blankets,
Hagwilget, British Columbia, 1983 (photograph
by author) 345
Illustration 34.6 Modern Ashanti Rente cloth, Ghana (photograph
by author) 347
Illustration 34.7 Kuna women in traditional clothing with reserve
appliqu6 Mola blouse, Panama, 1996 (photograph
by permission of Prof. Mari Lyn Salvador) 349
Illustration 34.8 Mexican Indian cotton Huipil from Oaxaca in two
forms: original sleeveless form for native use and
modified form for sale to gringa tourists, with
enlarged armholes and sleeves made from the
original waistband (photograph by author) 350
List of Illustrations xiii
Illustration 34.9 Selling contemporary textiles to tourists, Sumba,
Indonesia, 1996 (photograph by permission of
DrJillForshee) 352
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| spelling | Building on batik the globalization of a craft community ed. by Michael Hitchcock ... Aldershot [u.a.] Ashgate 2000 XXXIII, 360 S. Ill. txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Batik - Indonesia - History Batik - Social aspects - Indonesia Batik gtt Cultural property - Indonesia Cultuurgoed gtt Internationalisatie gtt Kunstnijverheid gtt Toeristenindustrie gtt Tourism and art - Indonesia Traditie gtt Globalisierung Batik Globalization Batik (DE-588)4004681-3 gnd rswk-swf Batik (DE-588)4004681-3 s DE-604 Hitchcock, Michael 1954- Sonstige (DE-588)136117465 oth HBZ Datenaustausch application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=008799577&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Building on batik the globalization of a craft community Batik - Indonesia - History Batik - Social aspects - Indonesia Batik gtt Cultural property - Indonesia Cultuurgoed gtt Internationalisatie gtt Kunstnijverheid gtt Toeristenindustrie gtt Tourism and art - Indonesia Traditie gtt Globalisierung Batik Globalization Batik (DE-588)4004681-3 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4004681-3 |
| title | Building on batik the globalization of a craft community |
| title_auth | Building on batik the globalization of a craft community |
| title_exact_search | Building on batik the globalization of a craft community |
| title_full | Building on batik the globalization of a craft community ed. by Michael Hitchcock ... |
| title_fullStr | Building on batik the globalization of a craft community ed. by Michael Hitchcock ... |
| title_full_unstemmed | Building on batik the globalization of a craft community ed. by Michael Hitchcock ... |
| title_short | Building on batik |
| title_sort | building on batik the globalization of a craft community |
| title_sub | the globalization of a craft community |
| topic | Batik - Indonesia - History Batik - Social aspects - Indonesia Batik gtt Cultural property - Indonesia Cultuurgoed gtt Internationalisatie gtt Kunstnijverheid gtt Toeristenindustrie gtt Tourism and art - Indonesia Traditie gtt Globalisierung Batik Globalization Batik (DE-588)4004681-3 gnd |
| topic_facet | Batik - Indonesia - History Batik - Social aspects - Indonesia Batik Cultural property - Indonesia Cultuurgoed Internationalisatie Kunstnijverheid Toeristenindustrie Tourism and art - Indonesia Traditie Globalisierung Globalization |
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