Waves, tides and shallow-water processes:
Saved in:
| Format: | Book |
|---|---|
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
Oxford u.a.
Pergamon Press u.a.
1991
|
| Edition: | Repr... (with corr.) |
| Series: | Oceanography series
4 |
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Physical Description: | 187 S. zahlr. Ill., graph. Darst., Kt. |
| ISBN: | 0080363725 0080363717 |
Staff View
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| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Waves, tides and shallow-water processes |c prepared by an Open University Course Team |
| 250 | |a Repr... (with corr.) | ||
| 264 | 1 | |a Oxford u.a. |b Pergamon Press u.a. |c 1991 | |
| 300 | |a 187 S. |b zahlr. Ill., graph. Darst., Kt. | ||
| 336 | |b txt |2 rdacontent | ||
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Record in the Search Index
| _version_ | 1804122122001317888 |
|---|---|
| adam_text | 1
CONTENTS
ABOUT THIS VOLUME 4
UhAHItn 1 tóSKtó ii tttji ■: v
1.1 WHAT ARE WAVES? 8
1.1.1 Types of waves 8
1.1.2 Wind-generated waves on the ocean 10
1.1.3 The fully developed sea 12
1.1.4 Wave height and wave steepness 12
1.2 WAVE-FORMS 14
1.2.1 Motion of water particles 15
1.2.2 Surface wave theory 17
1.2.3 Wave speed in deep and in shallow water 17
1.2.4 Assumptions made in surface wave theory 19
1.3 WAVE DISPERSION AND GROUP SPEED 19
1.4 WAVE ENERGY 21
1.4.1 Propagation of wave energy 21
1.4.2 Swell 22
1.4.3 Attenuation of wave energy 24
1.4.4 Wave refraction 25
1.4.5 Waves approaching the shore 27
1.4.6 Waves breaking upon the shore 29
1.5 WAVES OF UNUSUAL CHARACTER 31
1.5.1 Waves and currents 31
1.5.2 Giant waves 32
1.5.3 Tsunamis 34
1.5.4 Seiches 35
1.6 MEASUREMENT OF WAVES 37
1.6.1 Satellite observations of waves 37
1.7 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 1 39
* j-’ ?/ -1 , ; • y
2.1 TIDE-PRODUCING FORCES---THE EARTH-MOON SYSTEM 43
2.1.1 Variations in the lunar-induced tides 48
2.2 TIDE-PRODUCING FORCES-THE EARTH-SUN SYSTEM 50
2.2.1 Interaction of solar and lunar tides 50
2.3 THE DYNAMIC THEORY OF TIDES 52
2.3.1 Prediction of tides by the harmonic method 57
2.4 TYPES OF TIDE 58
2.4.1 Tides and tidal currents in shallow seas. 59
2.4.2 Storm surges 61
2.4.3 Tides in rivers and estuaries 62
2.4.4 Tidal power 63
2.5 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 2 64
11
N ■ X J
CHAPTER 3 ;J ; AN INTRODUCTION TO SHALLOW-WATER KM
’ v,- Z, -V •*?■» I | ENVIRONMENTS AND THEIR SEDIMENTS
■: .h •§ ,n-’■ ^ * “*•*.! •» /*? m- »¡53 jS
-V
Y xt:i ■t^ 2si ’ •* % j
3.1 THE SUPPLY OF SEDIMENT TO SHALLOW-WATER ENVIRONMENTS 67
3.2 VARIATIONS IN THE SUPPLY AND DISTRIBUTION OF SHALLOW-WATER SEDIMENTS 69
3.3 THE RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN SHALLOW-WATER ENVIRONMENTS AND THEIR CHANGES
WITH TIME 70
3.4 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 3 71
CHAPTER 4 I SEDIMENT MOVEMENT BY WAVES AND CURRENTS
4.1 FLUID FLOW 72
4.1.1 Frictional forces and the boundary layer ‘ 73
4.1.2 The flow of water in the boundary layer■ 74
. 4.1.3 The significance of the viscous sublayer 75
4.1.4 Current shear at the bed 76
4.1.5 Roughness length 78
4.1.6 Velocity profiles in the sea . 80
4.2 SEDIMENT EROSION 81
4.2.1 Erosion of non-cohesive sediments 82
4.2.2 Erosion of cohesive sediments 83
4.3 THE RATE OF SEDIMENT TRANSPORT 84
4.3.1 The bedload transport rate 84
4.3.2 The rate of transport of the suspended load 86
4,4 THE DEPOSITION OF SEDIMENT 87
4.4.1 Deposition of the bedload • 87
4.4.2 Deposition of the suspended load 87
4.4.3 Rates of sediment deposition 88
4.5 BED FORMS 90
4.5.1 The formation of current-produced bed forms 90
4.5.2 Current flow and bed forms 90
4.6 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 4 92
CHAPTER 5 | r 1
: BEACHES AND THE LITTORAL ZONE
5.1 THE DIVISIONS OF THE LITTORAL ZONE 95
5.1.1 Zones of wave action 96
5.1.2 The sediment profile 96
5.2 SEDIMENT MOVEMENT IN THE LITTORAL ZONE 98
5.2.1 Orbital velocities of waves and bed shear stess 98
5.2.2 Onshore and offshore movement of sediment by waves 99
5.2.3 . The longshore transport of sediment by wave-generated currents 101
5.2.4 The longshore sediment transport rate 104
5.2.5 Sediment transport in combined waves and currents 105
5.3 BEACH PROFILES 106
5.3.1 Beach profile and grain size 106
5.3.2 Beach profile and wave type 106
5.4 BEACH MATERIALS AND SEDIMENTARY STRUCTURES 107
5.4.1 Beach materials 108
5.4.2 Sedimentary structures . . 108
5.5 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 5 109
3
1^5I5ÎîïÎm ■ ................................ ..... ......
ÿÂSSiîÂS ^CHAPTER 6|! TIDAL FUTS AND ESTUARIES
îÜk ^ a» siSil WW»S3*•« * ïjUrh r ‘ /f,V ir v Xi
6.1 SEDIMENT TRANSPORT AND DEPOSITION ON TIDAL FLATS 112
6.1.1 Sediment distribution on tidal flats 112
6.1.2 Low-latitude tidal flats 115
6.2 ESTUARIES 116
. .6.2.1 Estuarine types 116
6.2.2 Sedimentation in estuaries 122
6.2.3 Sedimentation in different types of estuaries 123
6.2.4 Preservation of the dynamic balance of estuaries 125
6.3 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 6 126
1*^ ^.«s* » *»;»■» « CHAPTER 7 ^DELTAS ==.
7.1 THE STRUCTURE OF A DELTA 130
7.2 MIXING AND SEDIMENT DEPOSITION AT DISTRIBUTARY MOUTHS 132
7.2.1 River-dominated deltas • 132
7.2.2 Tide-dominated deltas 137
7.2.3 Wave-dominated deltas 139
7.2.4 Other types of delta .. .. 140
7.3 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 7 141
|^Æ ?*■ PS# IçHAPTERSll I SHELF SEAS
1 * *
Ö . ‘
8.1 SHELF SEDIMENTS 144
8.2 SHELF PROCESSES 146
8.2.1 Ocean currents 146
8.2.2 Local wind-driven currents 146
8.2.3 Tidal currents, 148
8.2.4 Storm surges 152
8.2.5 Wave action 152
8.3 BED FORMS ON THE CONTINENTAL SHELF 153
8.3.1 Scour hollows, furrows and sandribbons 154
8.3.2 Sandwaves and other transverse bed forms 155
8.3.3 Sand-banks 156
8.4 SHELF PROCESSES AND SEA-BED RESOURCES 156
8.4.1 Aggregates 157
8.4.2 Placer deposits 158
8.4.3 Phosphorites 159
8.5 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 8
159
SUGGESTEDFURTHER3,READING
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161
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INDEX
167
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3
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| id | DE-604.BV007751494 |
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| indexdate | 2024-07-09T17:08:51Z |
| institution | BVB |
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| language | English |
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| physical | 187 S. zahlr. Ill., graph. Darst., Kt. |
| publishDate | 1991 |
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| publisher | Pergamon Press u.a. |
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| series | Oceanography series |
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| spelling | Waves, tides and shallow-water processes prepared by an Open University Course Team Repr... (with corr.) Oxford u.a. Pergamon Press u.a. 1991 187 S. zahlr. Ill., graph. Darst., Kt. txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Oceanography series 4 Oceanografia Fisica (Ondas) larpcal Océanographie ram Sédiments marins ram Tides Waves Hydrodynamik (DE-588)4026302-2 gnd rswk-swf Gezeiten (DE-588)4020945-3 gnd rswk-swf Flachwasser (DE-588)4121276-9 gnd rswk-swf Meereswelle (DE-588)4038334-9 gnd rswk-swf Wasserwelle (DE-588)4136091-6 gnd rswk-swf Meereswelle (DE-588)4038334-9 s DE-604 Wasserwelle (DE-588)4136091-6 s Gezeiten (DE-588)4020945-3 s Flachwasser (DE-588)4121276-9 s Hydrodynamik (DE-588)4026302-2 s 1\p DE-604 The Open University Oceanography Course Team Sonstige (DE-588)3000875-X oth Oceanography series 4 (DE-604)BV007751480 4 Digitalisierung UB Bamberg - ADAM Catalogue Enrichment application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=005094769&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis 1\p cgwrk 20201028 DE-101 https://d-nb.info/provenance/plan#cgwrk |
| spellingShingle | Waves, tides and shallow-water processes Oceanography series Oceanografia Fisica (Ondas) larpcal Océanographie ram Sédiments marins ram Tides Waves Hydrodynamik (DE-588)4026302-2 gnd Gezeiten (DE-588)4020945-3 gnd Flachwasser (DE-588)4121276-9 gnd Meereswelle (DE-588)4038334-9 gnd Wasserwelle (DE-588)4136091-6 gnd |
| subject_GND | (DE-588)4026302-2 (DE-588)4020945-3 (DE-588)4121276-9 (DE-588)4038334-9 (DE-588)4136091-6 |
| title | Waves, tides and shallow-water processes |
| title_auth | Waves, tides and shallow-water processes |
| title_exact_search | Waves, tides and shallow-water processes |
| title_full | Waves, tides and shallow-water processes prepared by an Open University Course Team |
| title_fullStr | Waves, tides and shallow-water processes prepared by an Open University Course Team |
| title_full_unstemmed | Waves, tides and shallow-water processes prepared by an Open University Course Team |
| title_short | Waves, tides and shallow-water processes |
| title_sort | waves tides and shallow water processes |
| topic | Oceanografia Fisica (Ondas) larpcal Océanographie ram Sédiments marins ram Tides Waves Hydrodynamik (DE-588)4026302-2 gnd Gezeiten (DE-588)4020945-3 gnd Flachwasser (DE-588)4121276-9 gnd Meereswelle (DE-588)4038334-9 gnd Wasserwelle (DE-588)4136091-6 gnd |
| topic_facet | Oceanografia Fisica (Ondas) Océanographie Sédiments marins Tides Waves Hydrodynamik Gezeiten Flachwasser Meereswelle Wasserwelle |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=005094769&sequence=000002&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
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