Infragravity water waves induced by short-wave groups:
Saved in:
| Main Author: | |
|---|---|
| Format: | Book |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
Lyngby
Inst. of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering
1990
|
| Series: | Instituttet for Str/omingsmekanik en Vandbygning <Lyngby-Tårbaek>: Series paper
50 |
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| Item Description: | Zsfassung in engl. und dän. Sprache. - Zugl.: Lyngby, Techn. Univ., Diss. |
| Physical Description: | 168 S. graph. Darst. |
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| 245 | 1 | 0 | |a Infragravity water waves induced by short-wave groups |c Hemming A. Schäffer |
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| 500 | |a Zsfassung in engl. und dän. Sprache. - Zugl.: Lyngby, Techn. Univ., Diss. | ||
| 650 | 4 | |a Gravity waves | |
| 650 | 4 | |a Hydrodynamics | |
| 650 | 4 | |a Water waves | |
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Record in the Search Index
| _version_ | 1804118838167470080 |
|---|---|
| adam_text | CONTENTS
Page
PREFACE 1
CONTENTS 3
ABSTRACT 7
RESUME (abstract in Danish) 9
LIST OF SYMBOLS 11
1 INTRODUCTION 21
2 MATHEMATICAL MODEL 25
2 1 Infragravity wave motion 25
211 Governing equations 25
212 Boundary conditions 28
213 Matching conditions 28
2 2 Transformation of wave groups in shoaling waters and surf conditions 29
221 The kinematics 30
222 The dynamics 33
3 THE ENERGY BALANCE 41
4 TWO-DIMENSIONAL INFRAGRAVITY WAVE MOTION
— NORMALLY INCIDENT WAVE GROUPS 47
4 1 Governing equations 47
4 2 Theoretical infragravity-wave solution 48
421 General solution 48
422 The effect of oscillations of the break point position 51
423 Non-dimensional representation 56
424 Determination of integration constants 59
425 Important parameters 60
426 Reflection coefficient 61
427 Horizontal particle velocity and mean energy flux 61
4 3 Sample results for the infragravity wave 63
431 Surface elevation 63
432 Local solution for the bound long wave 73
433 Mean energy flux 76
434 Horizontal particle velocity 79
435 The influence of varying input parameters 82
4 4 Comparison with the theoretical results of Symonds et al (1982) 85
4 5 The limiting infragravity wave amplitude 93
4 6 Comparison with laboratory experiments by Kostense (1984) 95
5 EDGE WAVES 103
5 1 The classic linear solutions 103
511 Ursell’s general solution 103
512 Eckart’s shallow water solution 105
52A shallow, plane, sloping beach with a shelf 107
5 3 Dispersion relation from a geometrical optics approach 110
531 Shallow water 113
532 General depth 114
533 Ball’s shallow-water bottom profile 116
5 4 Maximum amplitude 119
6 THREE-DIMENSIONAL INFRAGRAVITY WAVE MOTION
— OBLIQUELY INCIDENT WAVE GROUPS 121
6 1 Governing equations 121
6 2 Theoretical infragravity wave solution 122
621 General solution 122
622 The effect of oscillations of the break point position 125
623 Non-dimensional representation 130
624 Determination of integration constants 132
625 Important parameters 134
626 Reflection coefficient 135
627 Horizontal particle velocity and mean energy flux 136
6 3 Sample results for the infragravity wave 137
631 Surface elevation 137
632 Mean energy flux 138
633 Horizontal particle velocity 140
634 The influence of varying input parameters 140
7 CONCLUSIONS 151
REFERENCES 153
APPENDICES 157
A CONFLUENT HYPERGEOMETRIC FUNCTIONS 157
B EDGE WAVE DISPERSION FOR BALL’S PROFILE 161
C PHILLIPS’ (1977) NOTATION 163
ADDENDUM
|
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| id | DE-604.BV004720863 |
| illustrated | Illustrated |
| indexdate | 2024-07-09T16:16:39Z |
| institution | BVB |
| language | English |
| oai_aleph_id | oai:aleph.bib-bvb.de:BVB01-002901425 |
| oclc_num | 25565601 |
| open_access_boolean | |
| owner | DE-91 DE-BY-TUM DE-83 |
| owner_facet | DE-91 DE-BY-TUM DE-83 |
| physical | 168 S. graph. Darst. |
| publishDate | 1990 |
| publishDateSearch | 1990 |
| publishDateSort | 1990 |
| publisher | Inst. of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering |
| record_format | marc |
| series | Instituttet for Str/omingsmekanik en Vandbygning <Lyngby-Tårbaek>: Series paper |
| series2 | Instituttet for Str/omingsmekanik en Vandbygning <Lyngby-Tårbaek>: Series paper |
| spelling | Schäffer, Hemming A. Verfasser aut Infragravity water waves induced by short-wave groups Hemming A. Schäffer Lyngby Inst. of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering 1990 168 S. graph. Darst. txt rdacontent n rdamedia nc rdacarrier Instituttet for Str/omingsmekanik en Vandbygning <Lyngby-Tårbaek>: Series paper 50 Zsfassung in engl. und dän. Sprache. - Zugl.: Lyngby, Techn. Univ., Diss. Gravity waves Hydrodynamics Water waves Instituttet for Str/omingsmekanik en Vandbygning <Lyngby-Tårbaek>: Series paper 50 (DE-604)BV002414656 50 HEBIS Datenaustausch application/pdf http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=002901425&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA Inhaltsverzeichnis |
| spellingShingle | Schäffer, Hemming A. Infragravity water waves induced by short-wave groups Instituttet for Str/omingsmekanik en Vandbygning <Lyngby-Tårbaek>: Series paper Gravity waves Hydrodynamics Water waves |
| title | Infragravity water waves induced by short-wave groups |
| title_auth | Infragravity water waves induced by short-wave groups |
| title_exact_search | Infragravity water waves induced by short-wave groups |
| title_full | Infragravity water waves induced by short-wave groups Hemming A. Schäffer |
| title_fullStr | Infragravity water waves induced by short-wave groups Hemming A. Schäffer |
| title_full_unstemmed | Infragravity water waves induced by short-wave groups Hemming A. Schäffer |
| title_short | Infragravity water waves induced by short-wave groups |
| title_sort | infragravity water waves induced by short wave groups |
| topic | Gravity waves Hydrodynamics Water waves |
| topic_facet | Gravity waves Hydrodynamics Water waves |
| url | http://bvbr.bib-bvb.de:8991/F?func=service&doc_library=BVB01&local_base=BVB01&doc_number=002901425&sequence=000001&line_number=0001&func_code=DB_RECORDS&service_type=MEDIA |
| volume_link | (DE-604)BV002414656 |
| work_keys_str_mv | AT schafferhemminga infragravitywaterwavesinducedbyshortwavegroups |